The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
packing tape which
is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
the sake of having
it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.
Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
usable?
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Which is why you got them cheap. You did get them cheap, right? ;-)
>
> The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic packing
> tape which
> is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for the
> sake of having
> it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.
>
> Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are usable?
Look for something using Heat and Pressure. Something you could use a
household iron on. Google 'heat seal tape'
>
> Regards,
>
> Edward Hennessey
>
LD:
Oh yeah. "If you want it, take it" was the guff I had to listen to. I
even
was forced to lug the carton away.
I thought there might be heat involved in the fabrication process and
thank you for further disposing the notion to action. I'll see what
comes
up.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
There's a special tape used. <http://www.adktapes.com/products.html>
Probably end up costing more than it's worth to fix your belts.
>I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
>abrasive and
> fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped
> joint after a few
> pressured revolutions.
-------------------------------
The first thing to fail on a sanding belt is the tape joint.
Hope they paid you well to haul away and dispose of their junk.
Lew
Thanks for the site, which I checked. Although no prices were
disclosed,
I'm not betting against your probability. What is the storage life on
taped abrasive belts?
Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive source.
Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer qualifications
and
comparable quality? We could consolidate a good order especially if
they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
> Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive
> source.
> Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer
> qualifications and
> comparable quality? We could consolidate a good order especially if
> they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.
--------------------------------------
Pearl Abrasives comes in from Canada with a major distribution center
here in SoCal
Have used Klingspor for sheet goods and Pearl for belts and heavy duty
discs for several years.
The Pearl came thru a local retail hardware at competitive prices if
purchased in quantity.
Klingspor was direct, again in quantity.
Lew
If you have to ask ....
He can always cut them up. Maybe even use them with a palm sander. I could
probably use them with my B&D ... if the price was right.
The following might, or might not, be useful - http://tinyurl.com/25y9vpp
--
Jeff Gorman, West Yorkshire, UK
email : Username is amgron
ISP is clara.co.uk
www.amgron.clara.net
I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but my old
mind is really weak.
I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Making_Sanding_Belts.html
I don't use a belt sander much anymore, but I use new belts from the
wholesaler when I do.
best wishes, woodstuff
> Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
> usable?
Slice them up, use them by hand or on palm sanders.
This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of adhesive
would be in order.
It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.
"Edward Hennessey" <haloOUTz...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Yv2dnQjTPqtwFKPR...@earthlink.com...
"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:4c3ea177$0$10437$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
Super glue works perfectly. I just fixed two belts 6x48" of my own, one
broke again, but it had a defect that made it break to begin with. The
other one has been working for about 2 weeks now. I initially glued the
sucker for quick use until I could get some new belts, damn thing still
working great. Don't skimp on the glue. Pretty sure I used super glue gel.
--
Jack
You Can't Fix Stupid, but You Can Vote it Out!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpGH02DtIws
http://jbstein.com
> I've had the same problem for years when using old sanding belts, and even
> on my wide-belt sander. Old belts just blow apart.
> I got a bunch of new sanding belts with my Time Savers that were made in "West Germany"... date
> that! Needless to say, they all blew apart. Cut up, I still use pieces for
> hand sanding.
My 6x48" sanding belts are old, really, really old, like 20 years or
more. They have held up well but when they fail, it of course is along
the glue line. If they just blow apart due to glue failure, the fix is
simple.
> I faintly recall a special process for sticking these together, but my old
> mind is really weak.
> I tried to find it tonight but only found one useful link:
I did no research, but had some super glue gel laying around. I spread
the glue on the seam, put a paper towel under the belt to stop gluing
the belt to itself, and pressed the seam together with a strip of wood.
This glue dries in 10 seconds so clamps are not even needed. The seam
is a 1/4" lap joint on these belts. I think they are originally glued
with a similar glue. I initially was afraid the glue would be too
brittle, but so far, so good.
--
Jack
Take risks: If you win, you'll be happy; if you lose, you'll be wise.
http://jbstein.com
My belts have a long angular joint across the width of the belt.
> This would make the belt pretty hard to tape together. Some sort of adhesive
> would be in order.
The joint is a half lap joint. As long as the break is clean, it is
simple to line it up perfectly, it's really automatic since it's a half
lap joint. Tape, hot melt glue would not work. Super glue gel works
great, and is simple since the glue dries in seconds, and is thin enough
that the seam is not raised, and is just as flat as it was at the factory.
I just did this two weeks ago, and after several uses it's holding up
fine. Can't say it will hold up forever or not, but I can say, for
certain, it will hold up for two weeks and about an hour of sanding...
Saved me an emergency trip to Granger and it took almost zero effort to fix.
> It could be very hard to get the belts to track properly after repair.
Tracking was not an issue, since the joints line up perfectly with
little fuss. A bump at the seam is no problem since super glue is thin,
even the gel type. Hot melt and tape I would think would fail to work
at all.
--
Jack
Free men do not ask permission to bear arms.
http://jbstein.com
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
(800) 871-5022
01.908.542.0244
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
Production Tapping: http://Production-Tapping-Equipment.com/
Flagship Site: http://www.Drill-N-Tap.com
VIDEOS: http://www.youtube.com/user/AutoDrill
TWITTER: http://twitter.com/AutoDrill
FACEBOOK: http://tinyurl.com/AutoDrill-Facebook
V8013-R
> I'm not betting against your probability. What is the storage life on
> taped abrasive belts?
>
> Klingspor has been cited in the past as a good bonded abrasive source.
> Does anyone have further ideas on any initial customer qualifications
> and comparable quality? We could consolidate a good order especially if
> they offer diamond abrasives for stone work.
...
I have had the conversation w/ Klingspor engineering on the issue. I'll
try to dig out the correspondence if I get a moment and post same. Was
interesting insight.
They don't (because their supplier doesn't) warrant the adhesive for
over a year and had no retail supply for replacement. My experience is
in cool storage they'll last longer than that reliably but not
indefinitely as the posting shows.
Despite that disappointment I still think the Klingspor is as good a
value as there is for individuals and small production folks that I'm
aware of you just have to be aware of how long you'll take to use up
inventory and plan purchasing in accordance. In my case I went from
active moderately high volume usage to just the occasional personal use
after the move and it was several years.
--
My familiarity with this problem goes back many years. When I faced
the same experience of snapping belts, I was told that improper
storage was the culprit, ie storage in an un-heated, un-cooled
building.
I was also told the manufacturers of the belts have assembly presses
which cannot be duplicated at home.
The lesson to be learned here, IMHO, is to purchase small lots as
needed. Is there anyway to find out the date of manufacture as per a
carton of milk?
Joe G
I should look at my box full of belts. They are quite old now. I moved and
still haven't even found my sander...thinking I have one...maybe?...LOL
"Jack Stein" <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i1n14m$ii9$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
"Joe AutoDrill" <auto...@yunx.com> wrote in message
news:5WE%n.17779$lS1....@newsfe12.iad...
Yep. I read that (didn't know it was him...) and figured it would last a
few days but that the glue was too brittle to last longer.
--
Regards,
Joe Agro, Jr.
It was Jack Stein who said he had had success that way, not OP.
I'll have to try it; didn't think there would be much chance w/ it,
either so haven't done so. The info I got from Klingspor engineering is
what they use is a thermo- or UV-curable adhesive. I've not found the
communications, unfortunately; don't recall what I must've done w/ them
but not in any of the logical places (or at seem what to be logical now;
who knows what was thinking of then.. :( )
--
> How about some carpet seam tape? The kind that you use to hold two
> edges together, heat up with an iron, and voila, they are stuck
> together. Do you know a carpet layer?
That I'm familiar with would be too thick and be a thump every rev...
--
Yes, I figure you glue one you need and use it, then it falls apart when the
glue dries out in a few days or weeks.
"dpb" <no...@non.net> wrote in message
news:i1nqsh$9lf$1...@news.eternal-september.org...
>I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
>abrasive and
>fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
>after a few
>pressured revolutions.
>
>The clear tape simply lets loose. We tried using standard plastic
>packing tape which
>is pretty strong stuff but that experiment did not test out. Just for
>the sake of having
>it handy, Gorilla duct tape went on and failed next.
>
>Does anyone have a suggested tape or other fix so these belts are
>usable?
2 possibilities come to mind.
Some belts are extremely directional and will last forever in the
correct direction or fall apart as you speak of in the other
direction. If there is an arrow on them, be sure to use it.
Second, old belts can have old, brittle adhesive and nothing I've
heard of will save 'em. Most tape will hit the shoe plate and curl
right off.
--
EXPLETIVE: A balm, usually applied verbally in hindsight,
which somehow eases those pains and indignities following
our every deficiency in foresight.
>"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in message
>news:4c3ea177$0$10437$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
>>
>> "Edward Hennessey" wrote:
>>
>>>I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
>>>abrasive and
>>> fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
>>> after a few
>>> pressured revolutions.
>> -------------------------------
>> The first thing to fail on a sanding belt is the tape joint.
>>
>> Hope they paid you well to haul away and dispose of their junk.
>
>He can always cut them up. Maybe even use them with a palm sander. I could
>probably use them with my B&D ... if the price was right.
I never understood that. Why would anyone want to sand their palm?
If the ends overlap, you can use elmer's glue and fix by ironing with
a household iron. If they but up then you will need some kind of
cloth tape.
We use to make our own in school shop by cutting from a roll at a
diagonal so they would overlap by approx an inch. Then using a
grinding stone in a DeWalt radial arm saw we ground off the grid on
one end, put on the glue and ironed them from the back. Never had one
to come unglued. The stock roll was donated by a local plywood maker.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
If you're right 95% of the time, why
quibble about the remaining 3%?
>On Wed, 14 Jul 2010 23:45:15 -0700, "Lobby Dosser"
><L...@invalid.invalid> wrote the following:
>
>>"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in message
>>news:4c3ea177$0$10437$c3e...@news.astraweb.com...
>>>
>>> "Edward Hennessey" wrote:
>>>
>>>>I picked up a large box of belts. They are new old stock. The belt
>>>>abrasive and
>>>> fabric are fine. When you run a belt it snaps apart at the taped joint
>>>> after a few
>>>> pressured revolutions.
>>> -------------------------------
>>> The first thing to fail on a sanding belt is the tape joint.
>>>
>>> Hope they paid you well to haul away and dispose of their junk.
>>
>>He can always cut them up. Maybe even use them with a palm sander. I could
>>probably use them with my B&D ... if the price was right.
>
>I never understood that. Why would anyone want to sand their palm?
Yeah, I'd rather have mine greased.
Smooth out the calluses from the heavy lifting I do. P)
Thank you for the pointers.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
dpb:
Good considerations to keep in mind. If you bump into the Klingspor
correspondence, I'm sure we'll all be ears.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
JG:
Good link. I've saved the information from the page. Thanks.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
I appreciate the link and copied it.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
JS:
Interesting. I have a friend that formulates cyanoacrylate glues and
will ask
him which concoction he suggests.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Edward Hennessey
MK:
Not really. There's also the "bump" issue with the thickness of the
glue
and the idea that if it gets hot while circling around the platten it
may
whip apart again.
Thanks,
Edward Hennessey
GR:
These belts butt up with the tape overlapping that line.
We use some large, stationary Somaca belt sanders as well and it would
be interesting to see if some of this belt material could be cut for
use on smaller
machines. The notion that it might be possible to fabricate belts from
new roll
stock also poses possibilities; hopefully, some of them might deal
with saving
money.
As to your second paragraph, my head is a little hard. Does "grinding
off the
grid" mean you are grinding each end of the cut roll for a half lap
joint? What
kind of glue was successful for you?
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
>
>
>
You would think so, but so far, so good. I did the repair over 2 weeks
ago and I've been sanding with it ever since. Yesterday I sanded a box
I made with box joints. I always make them a little proud and sand the
shit out of them. This is one of the harder tasks for my sander and if
the joint is going to break, this will do it. Held up perfectly.
> I should look at my box full of belts. They are quite old now. I moved and
> still haven't even found my sander...thinking I have one...maybe?...LOL
My belts are all 20 years old. They are working fine and are just now
beginning to break prematurely, thus, the reason I tried the super glue.
I can't say they will hold up forever since forever hasn't arrived, but
I can tell you for sure the super glue has far exceeded my expectations
and it has held up for over 2 weeks.
--
Jack
Got Change: 50 States ====> 57 States, not counting Alaska and Hawaii!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EpGH02DtIws
http://jbstein.com
The glue I used was DURO QUICK GEL. I normally use it for gluing
leather cue tips to my pool cue. It's made my Locktite I believe and is
sold at Kmart, or used to be. The stuff dries in 10 seconds under
pressure, so clamping is not even needed. I pressed it firmly with a
hunk of wood across the joint and a paper towel under the joint. No
glue seeped out the top, but some did get on the paper towel, so I was
glad I took that precaution. I made sure I covered the entire joint
generously as some glue soaks into the cloth.
About my only concern now is will the glue get too brittle? It's been
over two weeks, and the glue dries in 10 seconds, so I'm feeling pretty
confident.
There may well be a better glue for this, but while all my instincts
said it wouldn't work, it has worked well.
--
Jack
Assault is a behavior, not a device.
http://jbstein.com
GR:
Oh, you're human too. My favorite strategic mistyping of all time was
a marketing
letter addressed "Dear Suctomer".
Thanks again,
Edward Hennessey
JS:
Thanks for naming the cyanoacrylate. If it holds barnacles to hulls,
that
says something. A nod to you for prospecting among unlikely
alternatives
before giving up the ship and saying "trash".
Regards,
Edward Hennessey
Somewhere around here I have a copy of
"Hurst Boilers Trouble Sooting Guide"
basilisk
> a marketing letter addressed "Dear Suctomer".
...
To head of department while in uni...
Dr. Prof. What's his name
Department of Unclear Engineering
--
IIRC, they are the importer from a major German source.
Might be independent now. I've used them for so many years
that when I call about being a club member and give a card number
I get a Huh ?
They went into N.Carolina as that was a massive (for years) furniture site.
Now they work the US looking for US :-)
I like the sample box of strip material. I buy the fine.
They make custom and standard sizes. I buy 1" and many other sizes of belts.
Martin
Martin H. Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
"Our Republic and the Press will Rise or Fall Together": Joseph Pulitzer
TSRA: Endowed; NRA LOH & Patron Member, Golden Eagle, Patriot's Medal.
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Originator & Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member. http://lufkinced.com/
I looked at their site and will follow with a Monday call. Thanks.
Regards,
Edward Hennessey