Carver-Tripp SuperPoly problem
RICK OLSON
water based polyurethane). I recently received a pine
aquarium stand. Stained wood, no top coat. Thinking clearly, I
thought I'd put some urethane on it to protect it from water.
The first pass was unsuccedsfull. The thin consistency of the
super poly and large vertical surfaces lead to running unless I
spread the material on very thinly. The result was that the
surface was not at all consistent. A great deal of "Orange Peel".
So I called carver-tripp. They said that the matterial should be ap
applied liberally and that I could just put more on top of the
original attempt. So I tried agaion turning the stand for every
side to try to keep the surfaces hoirizontal. The surface came
out pretty even, but very cloudy. (I should have mentioned that
I am using semi-gloss) Another call to Carver Tripp and I was told
to not worry as "It will clear up" Three months later, no progress.
Is there a way to remove this stuff so that I can try again? I don't
want to strip it, because the (unknown brand and color) of stain will
probably come with. What are my chances of using a random orbital or
finishing sander to try to remove most of the poly. Will I have too
many poly particles left behind to refinish. Should I just give
up on fishkeeping? Thanks for any and all suggestions--
Rick Olson
K McCampbell
only had one bad experience with it. The can was pretty old and was almost
certainly left open for a loooong time.
Super Poly seems to degrade in the can after long exposure to heat or air. I
always keep it in a cool dry place. I keep the cover clean and tight. I put
what I think I'm going to use in a separate container and cover the can
immediately.
I don't really like the way it brushes on. You must put on really light
coats and it still runs. I usually spray it on with a spray gun like you would
use for automotive finishes. I get much better results with the spray.
Call C-T and explain again to them what happened. I have had good results
talking to them and I got some new Poly to boot.
YMMV.
Thanx! K
Michael Covington
and I find that the only way to apply it is to spread it very thinly
with a foam brush.
Generally, the first coat soaks into the wood and is very forgiving, but
the second and third coats will show brush strokes unless you're careful.
Also, to counteract its grain-raising tendency, I have been known, in my
more zealous moments, to do the final sanding after one coat has been
applied and dried.
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Loren W Zachary
without at least occasionaly removing the stain. You didn't state is you used
the satin finish for all of the coats. The proper technique (supposedly) is to
use only the gloss finish for all of the coats except the last coat. If you use
the satin finish for all of the coats it will be cloudy.
I just did an oak floor. I put on 6 coats in one day (one very long day!). I
only used the gloss. The coats must be thin. I also used the hardener. The
resulting finish was beautiful. I have also used this finish on furniture. I
only used the last coat as the satin finish. The results were again excellent.
I highly recommend the finish. It dries fast--thus little in the way of dust
problems.
--
--------------- ---------------
L. W. Zachary Aerospace Engineering and Engineering Mechanics
Internet: za...@iastate.edu 3021 Black Engineering Building
Iowa State University
Office: (515)294-3123 Ames, Iowa 50011
Amanda Walker
> [Varathane Diamond]
> Generally, the first coat soaks into the wood and is very forgiving,
> but the second and third coats will show brush strokes unless you're
> careful.
This matches my experience with Varathane. The first coat can be pretty
thick, but once the surface is sealed you have to use a bunch of thin coats.
It does build up to a nice finish, though, and it seems to be pretty tough.
> Also, to counteract its grain-raising tendency, I have been known, in
> my more zealous moments, to do the final sanding after one coat has
> been applied and dried.
I've taken to doing this as a matter of course. I'll do most of the sanding,
put on a thick coat of Varathane, and then do the final sanding, with a light
brush with steel wool after each subsequent coat (except the last). This
works especially well with the satin finishes.
Amanda Walker
InterCon Systems Corporation
Michael Covington
> I've just been handed a REAL C-T SuperPoly problem. I gave some of it to a
>neighbor to try on his entry that is always wearing out. Well, his 12 year old
>just painted their cat with it. The cat has the greatest gloss finish I've
>ever seen on a cat. Needless to say the cat's pissed. Short of shaving the
>cat, is there any way to get the stuff off after it has hardened? Without
>killing the cat?
Why would a 12-year-old _do_ something like that?
I'd be worried about the intelligence of the child...
You might try a _weak_ solution of acetone (like 5% in soapy water),
applied very carefully. If the cat has any open wounds, though, expect
a very angry cat.
Louis Lung
benefits as well as problems. I like it for the lack of solvent smell,
and the relatively quick drying time. But it does run quite a bit,
and I find it best to apply numerous thin coats (say 5-6 coats). It
raises the wood a bit, so I sand lightly after the first coat.
To me, the result is somewhat cloudy, but only at sharp viewing angles.
Everything I've read claims that the milkish white appearance becomes
transparent when dry, but I only get that when viewed straight-on.
Personally, I'm not convinced it's the perfect replacement for solvent
based urethane; but environmentally speaking it's a whole lot better
I guess.
-lou
--
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Louis Lung
OKI Advanced Products Division
100 Nickerson Road
Marlborough, MA 01752
508-460-8658
Opinions expressed herein are my own; Flames > /dev/null
K McCampbell
neighbor to try on his entry that is always wearing out. Well, his 12 year old
just painted their cat with it. The cat has the greatest gloss finish I've
ever seen on a cat. Needless to say the cat's pissed. Short of shaving the
cat, is there any way to get the stuff off after it has hardened? Without
killing the cat?
Thanx! K
David Grensing {x66594 CF/DEV}
In article <WOODWORK%9307271...@IPFWVM.BITNET> K McCampbell <BDMC...@BUDGET.BITNET> writes:
> I've just been handed a REAL C-T SuperPoly problem. I gave some of it to a
>neighbor to try on his entry that is always wearing out. Well, his 12 year old
>just painted their cat with it. The cat has the greatest gloss finish I've
>ever seen on a cat. Needless to say the cat's pissed. Short of shaving the
>cat, is there any way to get the stuff off after it has hardened? Without
>killing the cat?
How about 80 grit sand paper in your belt sander? Or
better yet, strap the cat to a board and feed it
through a Performax drum sander...well, it's a thought :)
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G. Paul Houtz
I have a followup question about "Varathane".
It seems there are a couple of different types. On is water-based, and
one is petroleum based.
Are they difficult to remove down the road? I am thinking of using
the water-based version on my kitchen cabinet doors, but I am wondering
if they will be difficult to re-finish in 10 years, after the kids are
grown?
bui tho xuan
>In article <CAzyz...@cup.hp.com> mi...@cup.hp.com (Ken Mintz) writes:
>> Why not wet the wood before the fine sandpaper phase (240 grit)? No
>> extra sanding step.
>I'll have to try that.
In FWW many moons ago, there was an article on how to get rid of this
grain raising problem.
The technique is to wet the wood lightly, then play a hair dryer over
it (I usually skip the dryer). Then, you take some rougher steel wool,
00 is what I usually use) and do a dab-and-pull motion against the
grain of the wood. The concept here is to let the steel wool wire
catches the fiber and YANK it out of the wood.
This is an advantage over sanding because unless you use very sharp (new)
sand paper, you'll push the fiber back down and will have to do it
all over again.
I found the technique to work quite well, even if it tend to leave the
surface rather porous looking sometimes. I also use stainless steel
wool (and sometimes, a 3-M finishing fiber pad) to avoid the tanic
acid stain on some wood with the regular steel wool.
tho
G. Paul Houtz
> I've just been handed a REAL C-T SuperPoly problem. I gave some of it to a
>neighbor to try on his entry that is always wearing out. Well, his 12 year old
>just painted their cat with it. The cat has the greatest gloss finish I've
>ever seen on a cat. Needless to say the cat's pissed. Short of shaving the
>cat, is there any way to get the stuff off after it has hardened? Without
>killing the cat?
>
----------
They should take the cat to a veternarian, unless they just don't
care about the animal.
K McCampbell
To all the good folks who wrote with advice for the Poly'd cat:
1 - The cat was shaved and cleaned by the vet.
2 - The kid was chastised. I'm sure very harshly.
3 - The cat looks like a chihuahua right now, but my cat still talks to him.
All seems OK on the goofy front.
Kay
Thanx! K
Mike Huber
[deletions]
:
: So I called carver-tripp. They said that the matterial should be ap
: original attempt. So I tried agaion turning the stand for every
: side to try to keep the surfaces hoirizontal. The surface came
: out pretty even, but very cloudy. (I should have mentioned that
: I am using semi-gloss) Another call to Carver Tripp and I was told
: to not worry as "It will clear up" Three months later, no progress.
I don't know how to solve your immediate problem, but, to avoid clouding,
I generaly use gloss finish (whatever transparent stuff I happen to be
using) for all but the last coat.
I don't use the Carver-Trip stuff where water is a problem because
it takes too many coats to build up the surface I want. Otherwise
I like it.
Mike Huber
Adam Goldberg
>In article <WOODWORK%9307271...@IPFWVM.BITNET> K McCampbell <BDMC...@BUDGET.BITNET> writes:
>> I've just been handed a REAL C-T SuperPoly problem. I gave some of it to a
>>neighbor to try on his entry that is always wearing out. Well, his 12 year old
>>just painted their cat with it. The cat has the greatest gloss finish I've
>>ever seen on a cat. Needless to say the cat's pissed. Short of shaving the
>>cat, is there any way to get the stuff off after it has hardened? Without
>>killing the cat?
>Why would a 12-year-old _do_ something like that?
>I'd be worried about the intelligence of the child...
>You might try a _weak_ solution of acetone (like 5% in soapy water),
>applied very carefully. If the cat has any open wounds, though, expect
>a very angry cat.
Oh, I wouldn't worry about that making the cat angry. The cat has
probably already reached the anger/fury threshold.
The poor cat. I'd have a vet sedate him/her and shave off the
affected area(s). The hair will grow back (eventually).
--
Adam G.
ad...@microware.com, or ...!uunet!mcrware!adamg
The above is not to be construed in any way as the official or unofficial
statements of Microware, or any Microware employees.
James Seymour
>> I have been using Varathane Diamond, which is a similar water-based poly
>> Also, to counteract its grain-raising tendency, I have been known, in my
>> more zealous moments, to do the final sanding after one coat has been
>> applied and dried.
>
> about finishing lately.
>
> Why not wet the wood before the fine sandpaper phase (240 grit)? No
> extra sanding step.
>
An associate of mine here at work (not a practicing wood-worker at
the moment, rec or otherwise) mentioned that method just the other
day. Says he learned it in wood shop class in high school many
years ago. Says it works great.
>
[snip]
>
>-- Ken Mintz
--
Jim Seymour | Medar, Inc.
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jsey...@medar.com | Farmington Hills, MI. 48335
CIS: 72730,1166 GEnie: jseymour | FAX: (313)477-8897
Linn Compton
often have a background of abuse of animals. Maybe they can find out what's wrong
with this idiot before he starts hurting people too.
And in answer to the original question, it will be a lot less dangerous to the cat
to take it to a vet and have it shaved to remove the varathane. Any kind of
chemical remover will cause more harm to the cat.