Table Saw Blade won't Tighten
Marty
been very happy with.
But today the following happened which I can only explain one
way.
I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
were appropriately tightened with no problems.
Now this puzzling problem.
After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).
The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
it is sized for the arbor shaft)?
Thanks
Marty
Upscale
"Marty" <mrm...@attglobal.net> wrote in message
> The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
> can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
> Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
> question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
> it is sized for the arbor shaft)?
The first thing I'd look for is some dirt or perhaps a burr somewhere in or
on the collar between it and the blade.
Tom Veatch
wrote:
>While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
>would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
>keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).
I'd interpret that as meaning the friction between the nut and arbor
is greater than the friction between the nut and the arbor
washer/blade. Try spinning the nut on by hand with the blade/washer
removed while you hold the arbor with the other hand. and see if it
doesn't get hard to turn before running out of thread. If so, see if
there isn't some burr or other defect in the threads of either the
arbor or the nut.
Tom Veatch
Wichita, KS
USA
Leon
this can happen, if you use shims they can fall into the threads of the
arbor and small bits can shear off. Try cleaning the thread out with a
brush to insure that there is no debris in the threads of both the arbor and
the nut.
Magnetic shims work pretty well by attaching them to the blade prior to
putting the blade on the arbor. They don't slip down on to the arbor
threads if used in that order.
Chris Friesen
> While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
> would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
> keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).
According to the manual you're supposed to prevent rotation of the saw
blade by jamming a block of wood against the blade teeth.
Chris
Marty
Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and
saw blade. Nut tightened up just fine. Still don't
understand how this happened between ten minute blade
change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
and if it happens again.
Thanks to all reply to original post.
Marty
Larry Blanchard
> Problem has been solved....
>
> Used 150 Grit sand paper and scuffed the collar and saw blade. Nut
> tightened up just fine. Still don't understand how this happened between
> ten minute blade change..... But don't care, now I know what to do when
> and if it happens again.
I don't know what your problem is, but now you're scaring me. Relying on
the friction of two roughened surfaces to hold something moving that fast
when it wasn't held without roughening isn't a good idea.
Something you're using doesn't fit your saw correctly.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
Upscale
"Larry Blanchard" <lbl...@fastmail.fm> wrote in message
> I don't know what your problem is, but now you're scaring me. Relying on
> the friction of two roughened surfaces to hold something moving that fast
> when it wasn't held without roughening isn't a good idea.
And to make matters even more worrying, you, they, us, may never know what
the problem was. Scuffing up the mating surfaces may have inadvertently
fixed the problem, by removing whatever piece of dirt, burr or particle that
was causing the problem in the first place.
Jimbo
Marty.
Solving any problem requires you to understand what went wrong in the
first place. Otherwise, your fix may just be temporary and, worse,
may be dangerous. My suggestion is that you repeat the sequence of
actions and try to reassure yourself that the problem is really fixed.
Good luck - but hope you don't need it :)
Jack Stein
the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used
old Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the
blades. Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock
up the blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower,
one must lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.
If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the
blade, and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me.
I'm generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...
I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...
How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it
on, after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the
arbor to loosen the nut?
Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to
the arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does,
then you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping
the blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block
of wood... something, or am I missing something?
--
Jack
Using FREE News Server: http://Motzarella.org
http://jbstein.com
Brian Henderson
> Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening
> the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used
> old Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the
> blades. Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock
> up the blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower,
> one must lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.
>
> If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the
> blade, and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me.
> I'm generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...
>
> I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
> wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...
>
> How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it
> on, after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the
> arbor to loosen the nut?
>
> Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to
> the arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does,
> then you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping
> the blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block
> of wood... something, or am I missing something?
I have no idea if it's the same on the TS2424, but I know on the 3650,
you do need to wrenches, one on each side of the blade. The wrenches
come with the saw, there's an open end and a box end, the open end slips
over the arbor on the left side of the blade into flat areas and holds
the arbor still, the box end slips over the nut and turns it. Without
two wrenches, I don't see how you would tighten it, or as you pointed
out, how he took it off in the first place.
--
Want to read more? http://BitchSpot.JadeDragonOnline.com
Religion is irrational, illogical insanity. Stop the madness!
Chris Friesen
> Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening
> the nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, the manual for this saw says to
use a block of wood to keep the blade from spinning while tightening the
arbor nut. There's apparently no way to keep the arbor itself from turning.
Sketchy indeed...
Chris
HeyBub
Two wild ass guesses:
1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
way I'd design it.
2. Is there an extension to the motor shaft on the other end that can be
accessed via a hex wrench (or something) to hold the shaft in place? Maybe a
hex hole on the business end?
Chris Friesen
> 1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
> the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
> way I'd design it.
Isn't this the usual design? My cabinet saw (which uses two wrenches)
is set up so the startup torque tends to tighten the nut.
Chris
phorbin
@mail.usask.ca says...
My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up like this.
I thought they all were.
Leon
"HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in message
news:K8idneGCmPs_9CTU...@earthlink.com...
>
> Two wild ass guesses:
>
> 1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
> the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's
> the way I'd design it.
It will be reverse thread if it is a right tilt or if the nut is on the left
side of the blade, in the case of a circular saw.
All arbot nuts tighten in the reverse dirrection that the blade spins. If
the nut is on the right, the nut tightens clockwise. If the nut is on the
left it tightens counter clockwise.
Leon
"phorbin" <phor...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:MPG.24234d05c...@news.execulink.com...
Nuts tighten opposite to the direction of the blade spin. some saws the nut
goes counter clockwise some clockwise.
In addition to start up torque the resistance that meets the blade when
cutting wood also tightens the nut.
Leon
"Jack Stein" <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:gpbc6m$8fe$1...@news.motzarella.org...
> Are you saying there is no way to hold the arbor still when tightening the
> nut on the blade? If so, that doesn't sound right. I've only used old
> Rockwell/Delta table saws but it takes two wrenches to tighten the blades.
> Used lots of circular saws, but always there was a way to lock up the
> blade/arbor when tightening the blade. Even with a lawn mower, one must
> lock the arbor when tightening the blade, with a block of wood.
It is pretty common for a TS to not have a way to lock the arbor when
tightening the nut. Have you ever seen those orange blade holders? they
are designed to hold the blade while you tighten the nut. If you are lucky
your saw has an arbor lock as with the PM2000 or has a spot to put a wrench
on the arbor opposite the nut.
Pretty snug is normally fine as the resistance that meets the blade when
cutting tightens the arbor nut.
> If a hunk of dirt, or sawdust is preventing you from tightening the blade,
> and a touch of friction is working, it sure sounds shaky to me. I'm
> generally one to throw caution to the wind, but hmmmm...
Saw dust in the threads of either the arbor or nut can prevent the nut from
tightening up against the washer and nut. I have had problems with rubber
dado shim material shearing off and magnetically sticking in the threads.
>
> I'm not saying you're doing it wrong or anything, just that it *sounds*
> wrong to me, I don't own your particular saw...
>
> How do you take the blade off? Even if not very tight when putting it on,
> after use, doesn't it tighten up, to the point you need to lock the arbor
> to loosen the nut?
A block of wood wedged against the teeth will be sufficient resistance to
easily loosen the arbor nut.
>
> Does your blade have pins or a square recess, something to hold it to the
> arbor instead of super friction from a very tight nut? If it does, then
> you should be able to hold the arbor steady by physically stopping the
> blade from spinning with a screwdriver through a gullet or a block of
> wood... something, or am I missing something?
Typically you don't want to have to use something that might bend/knock the
blade out of a flat state.
HeyBub
Right. I was thinking only of my saw. A better way of putting it to the OP
is "Well, so you can't tighten it. So what? Just snug it up and the running
of the saw will secure the nut... Probably. Wouldn't hurt to stand clear the
first time, though."
Leon
"HeyBub" <hey...@NOSPAMgmail.com> wrote in message
For some reason I have lost the OP's opening comment however IIRC he had a
problem of getting the nut tight enough that the blade would not free spin.
That can easily happen of the threads have debris in them. My current saw
has 2 wrenches and after using magnetic shims on a dado set I have
witnessed the arbor nut giving enough resistance that 2 wrenches were
required to snug up the nut. I noticed that the shim hole was no longer
"round" and found a piece of it in the threads of the arbor. Being
magnetic it did not fall out. I have learned to stick the shim on to the
blade prior to mounting on the arbor vs. sliding the shim on the arbor by
itself.
Doug Miller
>1. Is the nut reverse threaded such that actually RUNNING the saw tightens
>the nut? If I was building a saw without a way to grab the shaft, that's the
>way I'd design it.
That's the way *all* circular saws are made.
MikeWhy
news:%fgul.8667$jZ1....@flpi144.ffdc.sbc.com...
The only difficulty is on a saw with soft start and a brake. Braking torque
is applied to the motor shaft. The blade's inertia works to loosen the nut.
It was an issue for me only once and with a new saw. The arbor nut was
apparently not fully torqued. After a few test cuts, I was left to wonder
why the brake had suddenly "failed". I can see that becoming an issue in a
very noisy shop. You might not hear the blade whirring as it slowly winds
down on its own.
Bored Borg
(in article <z1ful.1903$im1....@nlpi061.nbdc.sbc.com>):
>>
>> My question exactly... My ancient Rockwell Beaver is set up like this.
>>
>> I thought they all were.
>
>
> Nuts tighten opposite to the direction of the blade spin. some saws the nut
> goes counter clockwise some clockwise.
>
> In addition to start up torque the resistance that meets the blade when
> cutting wood also tightens the nut.
>
>
True
my Elektra ( motor on operator's right) is a "lefty tighty, righty loosy" but
my Chaiwanese Golden People's Democratic Happy Cutting Splendour, Most Safety
is a conventional thread.. motor on operator's left. Both direct drive,
obviously. Elektra has a 'ole through the back of the arbour to take a tommy
bar and the Chaiwanese uses a two-wrench system.
DanG
nut the same direction as the blade turns to remove it
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Bored Borg" <bore...@gasboardsmorgasbord.org> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C5E0673A...@news.astraweb.com...
Brian Henderson
> Probably does not violate the cardinal rule for blades. Turn the
> nut the same direction as the blade turns to remove it
Which, of course, doesn't necessarily work for circular saws, depending
on which side of the blade the motor is on.
Leon
"Brian Henderson" <BrianL.H...@NOSPAM.verizon.net> wrote in message
news:AaSul.205$SU3...@nwrddc02.gnilink.net...
> DanG wrote:
>> Probably does not violate the cardinal rule for blades. Turn the nut the
>> same direction as the blade turns to remove it
>
> Which, of course, doesn't necessarily work for circular saws, depending on
> which side of the blade the motor is on.
Actually it does. Left blade saws use a reverse thread nut or bolt. Right
blade saws use a regular threaded retainer. With both you tighten the bolt
in the opposite direction that the blade spins.
Marty
and subsequent post. I appreciate all comments, especially those
discussing safety.
Now just a little background.
I have been using this saw for many years (since 2001 I think) and after
I moved to Vermont I started setting up my new shop. I had been using
the table saw to build some benches for the wife' art studio.
This included using a standard thin kerf and dado blades with
no problems. There is no way to keep the from arbor rotating when
tightening the arbor nut. (To tighten the arbor nut I must lock the
blade with a piece of wood (per saw user guide) to keep it from rotating.)
I then started work on a workbench for the shop, used the standard
blade, then changed to the dado blade (all OK so far) then changed
back to the standard blade and the arbor nut would not tighten up!
First thought I was having a senior moment and forgot how to mount the
blade!!!! :-).
It kept slipping such that the entire arbor would rotate as I turned
the nut. Now, to attach the blade, you put the blade on to the arbor,
then add the blade collar, then the nut. The blade collar is "dome"
shaped with the "inside" of the dome facing the blade.
When the nut is tightened the blade collar compresses against the blade
and holds the blade fast against the arbor.
After I cleaned the nut, collar and blade, the nut tightened up just
fine. I have using the saw regularly since my post on 9 March with no
problems.
I certainly scratched my head over this, as did my brother who is also
a woodworker. Read, reread and rereread the user guide and then posted
my original message.
I looked at the parts but did not see anything obvious that would cause
the blade to slip. I thought the blade collar had maybe "lost" its
compression strength and was going to buy a new one from Ridgid. Then
I decided to just use a bit of sand paper to clean the surfaces (nothing
to lose if it did not work).... and lo and behold the blade tightened
up just fine. Carefully stood back and started the saw with no
flying objects seen :-). Shut down the saw and checked blade tightness
and all was good. Made some cuts and everything AOK!.
I have been using the saw for a few weeks (changed blades several times)
and still OK.
Again, thanks to all who posted comments.
Marty
Marty wrote:
> I have a Ridgid TS2424 table saw, that, up until today I have
> been very happy with.
> But today the following happened which I can only explain one
> way.
> I normally use a thin kerf 10 blade with this saw. Today after
> I made some cuts using this blade I replaced it the
> my dado blade set to cut lap joints. Both of these blades
> were appropriately tightened with no problems.
>
> Now this puzzling problem.
>
> After I used the dado blade,I reinstalled the normal blade and could not
> tighten the blade to the arbor. No matter how many turns on the wrench
> it would not tighten. While trying to tighten the blade the arbor
> would also rotate. Which make some sense since there is no way to
> keep the arbor from rotating (and never has been).
>
> The only thing I can see that could be the problem is blade collar
> can't compress to hold the blade to the to the arbor.
> Does this part normally "wear out"? The second part of this
> question is can any table saw blade collar be used on any saw (assuming
> it is sized for the arbor shaft)?
>
> Thanks
> Marty
Andrew M
Thank you for posting this originally and for the solution of light sanding to the blade. The same exact thing happened to me just yesterday: I removed an 8" Dado stack and tried to reinstall my regular 10" single thin kerf blade (Diablo) on a Ridgid TS3650 table saw. The arbor kept slipping as I tried to tighten the nut so the blade wouldn't properly tighten. I bought the table saw used and it never came with the thin 7/8" (I think) wrench that you're supposed to use on the arbor collar in conjunction with the 1-1/16" arbor nut to tighten the blade. I had previously just used a block of wood against the teeth to un-tighten and gripping the blade with a glove to tighten up until now successfully for the past year or so since I got the saw.
In any case, I gave my blade a light sanding with 120 grit sandpaper and lo and behold it worked! The sanding of the blade provided enough friction with the blade collar that is connected to the arbor to make the blade stay put when tightening the arbor nut. I didn't sand the collar at all, just the blade was enough for me.
Anyway, cheers and thought I'd reply to this old thread in case anyone else has a similar issue. I've also ordered some thin wrenches on Amazon so I can tighten properly in the future!
Cheers
Andrew
Bob La Londe
dpb
> On 9/21/2020 10:52 AM, Andrew M wrote:
More than likely just cleaning the sawdust out of arbor and nut threads
thoroughly and a little lube would have solved the OP's problem...
If the nut won't turn to tighten the blade enough to hold by finger
only, there's a problem there.
--
Leon
the arbor nut wrench. You might look to see if the arbor flange has a
spot to accept a wrench.
whit3rd
system doesn't allow the blade vs. shaft rotation, so no self-tightening occurs. It makes
those saws much easier to do blade removal (so lots of heavy duty types are
designed that way).
k...@notreal.com
wrote:
fits. It took ages to find one even for my Unisaur, When I did, I
bought two.
Leon
but I needed a wrench, and it had to be thin. I bought an elcheapo
chrome mechanics wrench from Northern tool and used a grinder to make
the jaw narrow enough to fit the narrow slot. Narrow like the wrench
that comes with the saw. AND that is assuming that the arbor flats are
not terribly wide. But if the saw does have flats it is likely a normal
wrench size.
Leon
wrenches allows you to not have to wedge something against the blade, on
a TS. Not wedging something against the blade guards helps prevent
bending the blade.
Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.
dpb
...
> Yes most circular saws have arbor locks.
A flat maybe, a lock is pretty rare.
--
Andrew M
Fortunately, the thin wrench set I ordered from amazon arrived and I was able to use the 7/8" thin wrench on the arbor which held the arbor in place while I tightened the 1-1/16" arbor nut.
This is what I ordered: https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Super-Thin-Wrench-Set/dp/B001HZQW0Y
dpb
...
> So an update--the sanding solution worked initially, however once I swapped back to the dado stack and then tried to reinstall the single blade, I had the slippage occur again...Frustrating.
Something is wrong with the threads on either the nut or the arbor or
they're still full of sawdust or old dried grease or something...
There should be no problem finger-tightening to the flange sufficiently...
It is an Acme thread isn't it?
--
DerbyDad03
I had a spare arbor, so I decided to change the whole thing instead of just the bearings. Now when I tighten the arbor nut nothing slips and I feel that I could tighten it way more than I need to (but I don't).
Andrew M
From what I can tell, the issue is simply that there is too little friction between:
1. The "washer" between the blade and the arbor nut, &
2. The arbor collar and the blade
Which is causing the washer, arbor nut and arbor to spin together in-sync. Meanwhile I'm holding the blade still but nothing tightens.
It's also possible there is too much friction between the arbor nut and the "washer," causing it to spin with the nut, but it doesn't look like there's any deformed metal causing it to catch in any way.
The saw originally came with the 7/8" arbor wrench to hold the arbor in place while you tighten the nut, so in theory using two wrenches is how the saw was designed to be tightened rather than just holding the blade. That wrench was just missing when I bought it used.
dpb
torque to do as you describe...not saying it isn't, but just hard for me
to wrap head around any TS acting that way.
--
k...@notreal.com
saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on
tight!
Puckdropper
news:fmcqmfdn28mimqv9s...@4ax.com:
>
> That was my backup plan. I screwed up mine forgetting that famous
> saying "lefty tighty - righty loosey". Man that arbor nut was on
> tight!
will get the bolt moving and it'll come loose." Guess they covered a stuck
bolt and a reverse thread in one statement!
Puckdropper
k...@notreal.com
wrote:
troubleshooting guide for their toasters. It said "If your toaster
doesn't heat, try reversing the plug." Brilliant!
Brian Welch
Leon
automotive tire center part time while going to school. Those darn
Chrysler products were the same way.
Leon
Leon
tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside
down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze out.
It was "mint" flavored. what???
Leon
Leon
Craftsman is probably 80's vintage.
I would be surprised if any of the track saws don't have an arbor lock.
Leon
nut and the blade?
dpb
--
Sonny
> By any chance are you forgetting to put on the large washer between the
> nut and the blade?
k...@notreal.com
wrote:
k...@notreal.com
Another of life's mysteries... Why do lathe specifications say, for
example, 1-1/4" x 8TPI RH. Why would anyone want a left-hand spindle
thread?
k...@notreal.com
Scott Lurndal
any stationary power tool. They're always handheld; granted
Leon diverged from the thread, but that was, I'm sure, intentional.
Leon
clarification.
Leon
Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter?
Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would
have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I
have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH
threaded. ;~)
Leon
k...@notreal.com
spindle to keep the threads threaded.
>Maybe the opposite side of the drive where you would turn a platter?
>Yeah on that side the chuck would unscrew when working and you would
>have a lot of leverage to loosen the chuck if it were RH threaded. I
>have never used that side of my lathe drive so it may very well be LH
>threaded. ;~)
people think of everything. ;-)
k...@notreal.com
Dumbass. There isn't any thread on the opposite side. The headstock
gets moved to the other end for platters. An extension bed is needed
(which I don't have).
Puckdropper
news:9c-dnaRzT9SOmvPC...@giganews.com:
>
> ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass
> tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside
> down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze
> out.
>
> It was "mint" flavored. what???
whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets
on your fingers?)
They might still be used.
Puckdropper
Puckdropper
news:P8Cdnd8MUN-om_PC...@giganews.com:
it the other way removes it.
Puckdropper
DerbyDad03
opened to the full stop. Valves like the main water shutoff for your house
or any other gate valve that is seldom used.
If you need to turn it off and it won't move, you've got some room to open it
just a little more to free it up. Sometimes a little back and forth wiggle does
the trick, but you need some room on both sides of the wiggle.
J. Clarke
wrote:
was in my experience utter crap. However it was not toxic.
The "school glue" today is typically some kind of casein based "white
glue"--in other words it's derived from milk or if not derived from
anymore has the same chemistry as.
Leon
authority that "Paste" was eatable. ;~)
Leon
> On Sun, 27 Sep 2020 21:28:12 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
>> news:9c-dnaRzT9SOmvPC...@giganews.com:
>>
>>
>>>
>>> ;~) Yeah. So back in the 60's there was a glue for school. Glass
>>> tapered bottle with a rubber application tip with a slit. Turn upside
>>> down push tip against the project and the crown tinted glue would uze
>>> out.
>>>
>>> It was "mint" flavored. what???
>>
>> Some glues are VERY edible. At one time, some glues were made using egg
>> whites. (Ever notice how sticky they are when you crack an egg and it gets
>> on your fingers?)
>>
>> They might still be used.
>
> The glass tapered bottle with the tip with a slit was "mucilage". It
> was in my experience utter crap. However it was not toxic.
Leon
place.
But some times if you are not thinking, you don't know which way is
tightening and which is loosening.
So if it will not turn in the direction you first tried, trying in the
other direction is essentially tightening and then loosening or visa
versa. You end up doing both. ;~)
Leon
an internally treadled shaft on the left side of the assembly. It is
left hand threaded but it is internally/female threaded.
gray_wolf
Scott Lurndal
Spalted Walt
https://www.findagrave.com/memorial/24301650/_
https://images.findagrave.com/photos/2008/31/24301650_120185669969.jpg
Moral of the story: Please do not eat the Library Paste, kiddies.
Who wants their existence on this planet preserved for posterity
as being someone who died eating paste?