Spar Urethene vs. Poly ??
bbo...@my-dejanews.com
I am getting ready to stain three things in my kitchen: my pine Pella
windows, the pine trim around the windows, and the pine trim around my
kitchen countertops. I am planning on using Minwax Wood Conditioner and
Minwax Puritan Pine stain.
My question is about the finish. At first, I was going to use Minwax
Oil-based Polyurethene. But then I learned that it can "amber" a light
finish. So I decided to use Polycrylic, their water-based poly. But I was
reading some literature from Pella about their windows. They suggested using
an "outdoor quality" finish on top of your stain. I assume they mean
something like Minwax' Helmsman Spar Urethene. Being in a kitchen, they may
get wet (especially the kitchen countertop trim, which will get wet daily).
So I have several questions:
1) What are the advantages/disadvantages of Spar vs. Polycrylic?
2) Will the Spar turn an amber color?
3) Should I use spar on all three items (windows, window trim, counter trim) ?
Or perhaps Spar just on some and not another?
Any comments would be appreciated!
Brett
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Russ Ramirez
<78krri$21k$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>...
>Hi,
>
>I am getting ready to stain three things in my kitchen: my pine Pella
>windows, the pine trim around the windows, and the pine trim around my
>kitchen countertops. I am planning on using Minwax Wood Conditioner and
>Minwax Puritan Pine stain.
>
>My question is about the finish. At first, I was going to use Minwax
>Oil-based Polyurethene. But then I learned that it can "amber" a light
>finish. So I decided to use Polycrylic, their water-based poly. But I was
>reading some literature from Pella about their windows. They suggested
using
>an "outdoor quality" finish on top of your stain. I assume they mean
>something like Minwax' Helmsman Spar Urethene. Being in a kitchen, they may
>get wet (especially the kitchen countertop trim, which will get wet daily).
>
>So I have several questions:
>
>1) What are the advantages/disadvantages of Spar vs. Polycrylic?
I'll answer with regard to the specific brands mentioned. Spar is more
flexible when cured and has better moisture and solvent resistance.
Polycrylic has somewhat better direct heat (i.e. not from sunlight/UV)
resistance and of course cleans-up with soap/water.
>2) Will the Spar turn an amber color?
Yes, this varnish is actually amber-red in color. Polycrylic is blush
(gloss) to milky depending upon the percentage of silica added as a
flattening agent.
>3) Should I use spar on all three items (windows, window trim, counter
trim) ?
>Or perhaps Spar just on some and not another?
>
For simplicity sake, I'd go with the spar on all three. Definitely on the
window elements.
>Any comments would be appreciated!
>
If you do a Dejanews search on spar/Helmsman you'll find more advice on the
actual application process, tips, brush selection, etc. Have fun...
Russ Ramirez
John Schultz
bbo...@my-dejanews.com wrote
>
>1) What are the advantages/disadvantages of Spar vs. Polycrylic?
Polycrylic is likely to leave more brushmarks than an alkyd spar varnish.
Waterbased materials don't sand well for a few days after they go on either.
Spar varnish is an alkyd varnish and contains amber UV inhibitors from the
get go.
Spar varnishes likely has slightly better flexibility than a polyurethane
but less chemical resistance
>2) Will the Spar turn an amber color?
The spar starts out amber - all exterior varnishes do.
However, we sell an acrylic from polyvine that is labeled interior/exterior
and after a year of exposure it has not yellowed. Amazingly enough!
>3) Should I use spar on all three items (windows, window trim, counter
trim) ?
>Or perhaps Spar just on some and not another?
Exterior varnishes are softer - more flexible than interior varnishes. On
something like a window, there is likely to be a great deal of weather
induced contraction and expansion as well as plenty of UV from sunshine . An
exterior varnish can put up with this longer than an interior product will
no matter if you use poly or spar finiishes.
I would suggest the exterior products on the window and trim but not on the
counter trim. You may want to use a regular poly on the counter trim to give
better resistance to water and cleaning products than the aqlkyd type
varnishes. The polycrylic will likely work ok too and won't yellow.
Martin Schuessler
>
> Hi,
>
> I am getting ready to stain three things in my kitchen: my pine Pella
> windows, the pine trim around the windows, and the pine trim around my
> kitchen countertops. I am planning on using Minwax Wood Conditioner and
> Minwax Puritan Pine stain.
>
> My question is about the finish. At first, I was going to use Minwax
> Oil-based Polyurethene. But then I learned that it can "amber" a light
> finish. So I decided to use Polycrylic, their water-based poly. But I was
> reading some literature from Pella about their windows. They suggested using
> an "outdoor quality" finish on top of your stain. I assume they mean
> something like Minwax' Helmsman Spar Urethene. Being in a kitchen, they may
> get wet (especially the kitchen countertop trim, which will get wet daily).
>
> So I have several questions:
>
> Or perhaps Spar just on some and not another?
"Spar" varnish is just regular varnish which has been cooked
with a higher percentage of oil (varnish is made by heating
a resin with oil). The resins are commonly alkyd and polyurethane,
and the oil is usually linseed. Alkyd varnish are more amber
in color than polyurethane. The high oil content of the spar
varnish makes it more flexible, albeit less "protective" than
regular varnish. THe reason is that wood exposed to water
and water vapor will expand and contract more than wood
protected from moisture. This expansion and contraction will
crack the more brittle finish, but spar varnish is more
able to deal with the wood movement.
I do not know how a water-based finish can deal with that
situation.
Neither water-based finishes nor varnishes are problem free.
Varnish dries slow and level, but will feel rough due to
dust settling in the finish. It will also be more amber
in color, but not too bad if you use polyurethane.
Water-base finishes dry fast and crystal clear, but will
show brush marks.
My suggestion would be to use a lighter coat of stain, and
let the spar varnish provide you with the extra depth of
color if you're worried about the wood looking too dark.
To absolutely sure, do a sample of wood before you tackle
the real thing.
Regards,
Martin
Staff
Urethane. Came out very nice. The first two finishes were appilied with a foam
brush. Hit wood with a light sanding after staining and once after the first coat
of urethane. Minwax.com explains all their finishes on their web page.
bbo...@my-dejanews.com wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I am getting ready to stain three things in my kitchen: my pine Pella
> windows, the pine trim around the windows, and the pine trim around my
> kitchen countertops. I am planning on using Minwax Wood Conditioner and
> Minwax Puritan Pine stain.
>
> My question is about the finish. At first, I was going to use Minwax
> Oil-based Polyurethene. But then I learned that it can "amber" a light
> finish. So I decided to use Polycrylic, their water-based poly. But I was
> reading some literature from Pella about their windows. They suggested using
> an "outdoor quality" finish on top of your stain. I assume they mean
> something like Minwax' Helmsman Spar Urethene. Being in a kitchen, they may
> get wet (especially the kitchen countertop trim, which will get wet daily).
>
> So I have several questions:
>
> 1) What are the advantages/disadvantages of Spar vs. Polycrylic?
> 2) Will the Spar turn an amber color?
> 3) Should I use spar on all three items (windows, window trim, counter trim) ?
> Or perhaps Spar just on some and not another?
>
> Any comments would be appreciated!
>
> Brett
>
> -----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
> http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
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