Filling nail holes in cherry.

[Dick Pewthers]

I am working with cherry for the first time--a large aquarium stand . I
understand that cherry darkens over time due to exposure to light. The
hardwood I am using is very light in color so I expect it to darken
considerably. With that in mind, what do I use to fill the nail holes
that will darken along with the wood? Do I fill them before or after I
apply the Cherry colored Watco?

I recently read about using a putty made from cherry sawdust (from my
sander) mixed with liquid hide glue. The article said it would stain
as well as the wood itself. Has anyone tried this technique?

Your advice is greatly appreciated.

Dick Pewthers
Austin, TX

[Pam Niedermayer]

Hi, neighbor. For nails visible in the final piece you may want to
consider using Veritas' invisible nailing kit, which you can see at
Lee Valley's site at

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32683&category=1,41182&ccurrency=2&SID=1W43C

Or, perhaps assembling without using nails?

As to filling holes, I've often mixed sawdust with glue (one that
normally dries clear), works great, no visible difference between
piece and filled holes; but I haven't done this with cherry. I also
haven't done this with a stained finish, normally just use blo; so
along with the upcoming lectures about staining cherry that will be
coming your way (not bad advice, btw), someone else will tell you
about glues that take a stain.

Pam

--
Pamela G. Niedermayer
Pinehill Softworks Inc.
600 W. 28th St., Suite 103
Austin, TX 78705
512-236-1677
http://www.pinehill.com

[Stephen Meier]

I agree... no nails. I would rather look at a countersunk nail than a lousy
putty job.

If you don't want to completely redesign you joinery to use all glue joints
on the exposed surfaces, there is an alternative:

Use screws, recess them, and plug holes with cherry plugs. A tapered plug
cutter (about $14 at WW) is kind of steep compared to the regular variety,
but I find it to be worthwhile. They provide a very nice tight fit. If you
choose plug stock carefully and make sure that you insert the plug with the
grain oriented the right way... it will be nearly invisible.

-Steve

[Dave Mundt]

Greetings and Salutations...

On Mon, 14 May 2001 15:34:06 GMT, Dick Pewthers <di...@pewthers.com>
wrote:

>I am working with cherry for the first time--a large aquarium stand . I
>understand that cherry darkens over time due to exposure to light. The
>hardwood I am using is very light in color so I expect it to darken
>considerably. With that in mind, what do I use to fill the nail holes
>that will darken along with the wood? Do I fill them before or after I
>apply the Cherry colored Watco?
>

Hope you have your asbestos underware on...there are some
folks that take flamethrowers to people that feel it is necessary to
stain cherry... to each his own, I say, though. Since this is your
first time, though, I would strongly suggest you test the stain on
some cherry before testing it on your project. you might find that
you don't really LIKE the "textured" (some would say "blotchy") look
that can happen.
I would also suggest that you try setting the wood (or the
project) out in the sunlight for a week or so. That should really
push the wood to darken, and, you might well end up with the color you
like without staining. Of course, if you are trying to 'match' some
existing furniture...you have to do what you have to do.
Now...as for filling the holes...either way is fine, although
I suspect that before you finish would be better than after. I also
hope that you are using more than nails to hold this thing
together...say...(at the very least) glued dado joints or (preferably)
sliding dovetails. Water is really heavy ("A pints a pound, the world
around") and nails alone might not be a solid enough connection. I
would ("gasp!") likely use long woodscrews in this case.

>I recently read about using a putty made from cherry sawdust (from my
>sander) mixed with liquid hide glue. The article said it would stain
>as well as the wood itself. Has anyone tried this technique?
>

Well, that works pretty well. However, you can use almost
any adhesive for it. Shellac is nice, too, as are the new, foaming
urathane glues (which take stain really well because of their porous
nature when set).
If you used woodscrews, you could countersink slightly, and
use wooden plugs, which would look good and would have NO staining
problems.

>Your advice is greatly appreciated.
>

My main advice is to go to http:\\groups.google.com\ and
search for "rec.woodworking staining cherry" (without the quotes) and
read through some of the OTHER experiences and opinions folks have
about staining this wood.
My preference is for NO stain and a clear finish (lacquer,
etc) as I really like the raw color, and, I am patient enough to wait
for it to darken on its own. The problems I have with staining the
wood is that (a) dings will show up and (b) as time passes, and the
wood darkens, it will end up getting VERY dark, as the color of the
wood and the color of the stain add together.
Regards
Dave Mundt

>Dick Pewthers
>Austin, TX
>

[-MIKE-]

> Hi, neighbor. For nails visible in the final piece you may want to
> consider using Veritas' invisible nailing kit, which you can see at
> Lee Valley's site at
>
>
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32683&category=1,41182&c
currency=

Very cool tool!

-MIKE-

--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrums.com or hit 'reply'

[Chris Henige]

I actually have one. I cannot get it to work well for me on cherry. The
sliver tends to break off and then I have a hard time making it look good.
-MIKE- <mi...@mikedrums.com> wrote in message
news:uL%L6.27591$I5.55...@news1.rdc1.tn.home.com...

[pat payne]

I am doing a project now with cherry and have a few holes from my brad
nailer on some trim. I use watco natural oil and sand with wet and dry
paper. The holes are filling with sawdust and oil. I start with 150 and
work up to 600 -6 coats over 6 days. The holes are disappearing as the oil
drys.