Pickling Cabinets
srob...@juno.com
I have 35 year old pine kitchen cabinets that look like 35 year old
cabinets. I would like to give them a pickled finish. Anyone have
suggestions how to do it, or a product they would recommend? Thanks
Steve
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Paige
Steve,
I faux pickled 3 pieces of furniture in my dauther's room 7 years ago,
all pine. I suppose the pro's use a tinted glaze or diluted oil base
paint. But I just used watered-down white latex interior paint as if it
were stain (in trials I found the yellow from the pine ruled out using
off-white), then applied a couple of coats of satin acrylic varnish.
And, everything cleans up with water, so your nail polish still looks
good when you're done too <grin>.
Good luck, Paige
Richy
Paige <ww...@bellsouth.net> wrote in article
<34B581...@bellsouth.net>...
> I faux pickled 3 pieces of furniture in my dauther's room 7 years ago,
> all pine. I suppose the pro's use a tinted glaze or diluted oil base
> paint. But I just used watered-down white latex interior paint as if it
> were stain (in trials I found the yellow from the pine ruled out using
> off-white), then applied a couple of coats of satin acrylic varnish.
Wow, sounds great, and so easy! I wonder what it takes to get that 'real'
pickling? I've been DYING to pickle my solid cherry custom kitchen
cabinets!
> And, everything cleans up with water, so your nail polish still looks
> good when you're done too <grin>.
Well, that's really the important thing, after all.
Rich
Paige
Rich wrote:
> I've been DYING to pickle my solid cherry custom kitchen cabinets!
I hope you're kidding. I don't think that would look very good at all.
No, if I were you, I'd use lime green enamel.
Hope you get this in time, Paige
Paige
Rich wrote:
>I wonder what it takes to get that 'real' pickling?
Okay, all kidding aside, I suggested the faux method because the results
are practically indiscernible as compared to the the 'real' pickling
method (but I was under the impression you guys didn't like 5-6 step
finishes...by the way, whoever posted that method, take solace in the
fact that KraftMaid [cabinetry makers] advertises a "14-Step Furniture
Finish" for durability [a "DuraKraft" furniture finish]).
In fact, right here in Atlanta a few years ago, at the world-renowned
Anthony's Restaurant, customers' coffee was switched, unbeknownst to
them of course, with a faux pickling solution. Oh, wait. Sorry. That was
decaf coffee. Nevermind.
Anyway, I don't know how the pro's do it, but according to the
literature I read on it a few years ago, which was too involved for the
amount of time I had to spend on it, to 'really' pickle wood, you begin
by bleaching it (if new pine you may want to ward off blotchiness or
uneven results after bleaching by coating the piece with a 1:5 solution
of shellac:denatured alcohol, this method requires quick work with the
next step if followed up with an alcohol based stain). Then stain it
semi-opaque white using various methods, one of which is to use 50 grams
of beeswax pellets:3 Tblsp's of artists' white or off-white oil color
melted in a double boiler, then allowed to dry to a paste (about 10
minutes). Wipe on with a cloth. After drying a couple of hours, polish,
as the wax was in the stain and no further finishing is required.
However, poly would be recommended for everyday or exterior usage.
According to a new book I got last year ("Paint Recipes" - a great book
with many ideas for country chic styles, glazing and craft painting),
one can also make "stains" by dissolving fabric dyes (begin with 1 tsp.
of color to 1 pint of water). The author also suggests just diluting
latex water-based paint and using it as a stain. Well, there I go waxing
ease again. Don't worry. I'm a newbie. I'll get the hang of this.
Regards, Paige
Daniel Shafner
Paige wrote:
>
>
>
> >[Rich] wonder[s] what it takes to get that 'real' pickling?
>
> Okay, all kidding aside, I suggested the faux method because the results
> are practically indiscernible as compared to the the 'real' pickling
> method (but I was under the impression you guys didn't like 5-6 step
> finishes...by the way, whoever posted that method, take solace in the
> fact that KraftMaid [cabinetry makers] advertises a "14-Step Furniture
> Finish" for durability [a "DuraKraft" furniture finish]).
> In fact, right here in Atlanta a few years ago, at the world-renowned
> Anthony's Restaurant, customers' coffee was switched, unbeknownst to
> them of course, with a faux pickling solution. Oh, wait. Sorry. That was
> decaf coffee. Nevermind.
>
The "14-Step Furniture Finish" includes pre-stains, sap stains, wood prep
(sanding, etc.), washcoating, staining, glazing, more sealing, toning,
prepping for the top-coats, and 2 or 3 top-coats. I do not know if that adds
up to 14, but that's what they mean. It is a process of building color,
layering color and various preperation techniques -- called cutting sequences
-- to the wood and the finish so you get a good final topcoat with a minimal
amount of crud in the finish. If they rub, burnish or polish the finish after
that, then you are talking about even more steps to the finishing process.
For a limed finish, as opposed to a whitewash finish, the glazes that sit in
and around the carvings and shapes to accentuate the recesses are the most
important. The flats of the wood reveal the beauty of the subdued grain effect
(even cherry and walnut!) from the whitewash/translucient white or pastel
coloring, while the shapes and pores are accented by the pigments (white,
off-white or pastel) lodged in and around them. If you do not like this look,
blame the French; it started there.
--
Daniel Shafner
shafner at webspan dot net
Scientists call this disease Commercialism.
But us regular folks who might use an occasional SMPT
Know this exquisite little inconvenience by the name of
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(extrapolated from "Stinkfoot" by Frank Zappa)
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