homemade Sears thickness planer dust chute

[Jeff Hass]

Hi,
I have a Sears 12 1/2" thickness planer (Model 351.23373) that I bought
around 1990 when dust collection didn't seem to matter. As far as I
know, Sears does not make a dust collection chute for it. I now have a
great 4" DC system and would like to find some way to use it with the
thickness planer. I have visions of duct taping something like an AC
vent or slit PVC tube to the back, but there is not much clearance above
the boards coming out and the ejection chute--I'm also concerned about
shavings piling up. The planer works fine and I'd hate to get rid of it
if a solution can be found.

I am new to this group and while I have searched for previous posts, I
did not have much success. If this has come up before (can't imagine it
didn't), perhaps someone could suggest some different search terms than
what I used or point me to some replies.

Thanks,
Jeff

[George]

I'm using a forced-air radiator duct for my dust collection on an old
Rockwell. Used one which extracted from the end, but for softwoods with
long shavings I was obliged to go to one with extraction in the middle.
Visit the heating section of your local home center, and remember that you
will need a crimped 4" to slide inside that hose.

"Jeff Hass" <jeffh...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:3D9091CF...@yahoo.com...

[mikeswoodcraft]

"George" <som...@microsoft.com> wrote in message news:<ov0k9.6389$fO.10...@kent.svc.tds.net>...

do check at shopnotes.com they have a home made dust collection hood
for planers,,,,,

[Walt Conner]

I have designed and made dust collector chutes for my planers that work much
better than those furnished, bet you can also.

Walt Conner

[Jeff Hass]

Gentlemen,

Thank you both for your help--I had also been thinking along the lines
of an HVAC duct (boot)(I use a large on in back of my radial arm), and
with the confidence that it could be done, I got a 12 x 2 x 6 boot, a
6" to 4" reducer and a 4" drainage hose coupler that I have been using
to quick-connect my hoses. Well, I didn't realize how flimsy the Sears
cover was, which looked like the biggest problem, so I just bent it up,
drilled out some rivets from the boot and reshaped it, riveted it to the
Sears cover and I was in business--not a thing of beauty, but it works
great! Now I can spend the $300 for a new planer on something else.

Thanks again,
Jeff

[Joe Woody Woodpecker]

I rebuilt the dust chute on my planer a year ago. I found out that the
chute that was supplied with the planer also trapped dust in it because
it went from a 12.56 sq in area to over a 16 sq in area and acted like a
separator can with a hole in the bottom. Once I rebuilt it and made the
design better,I can now use my DC which has a 4" line going to the
separator can where a 3" line leaves. This wyes off to 2-1/2" lines
where there is shop vac hoses going to my tools and because all the
tools have a better dust chute, this system works very well.

I used plastic to make mine. I used 1/2" plastic for the side which I
screwed the top and bottom into. The top and bottom and front side are
all made out of one piece of Lexan which I had to heat to bend. The
Lexan will not allow chips to be thrown out where it can break the
plastic.

A blast gate i attached to the tools and the automatic system for
turning o the DC works very well. Open the blast gate, turn on the
planer, the DC starts to run. Shut off the planer, the DC will run
about 5 more seconds and then it shuts off. Then close the blast gate.

--
Woody

Check out my Web Page at:

http://community-1.webtv.net/WoodworkerJoe/WoodworkerJoesInfo

Where you will find:

* * * Build a $20 DC Separator Can Lid.
* * * Plans to build a Relay Box for your DC.
* * * The Bad Air Your Breath Everyday.
* * * What is a Real Woodworker?
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Definitions.
* * * Murphy's Woodworking Law Library.
* * * What is the true meaning of life?