Tuning Grandfather Clock chimes
Kevin Marlowe
Clock Co. of Fairhope, AL. It's taken me about a year, on and off, and I've got
only two remaining problems: (1) bubbles in the Varithane finish, and (2) tuning
the chimes. The bubbles I'll ask about in another post, but the chimes really
bug me - they're badly out of tune. I guess my musician's ear is a little
over-sensitive to it, but does anybody have experience tuning these things?
I called the factory; they said to adjust the distance the hammer travels to
strike the chime, but I think they're confusing flat (dull, muffled tone) with
flat (too low in pitch). There are adjustment screws at the top of the assembly,
but the factory advised me never to touch those, so that's probably what I
should do...
Any thoughts? Thanks -KLM
--
____________________________________________________________________
Kevin L. Marlowe Computer Sciences Corporation
k.l.m...@larc.nasa.gov NASA Langley Research Center, MS 931
Voice/Fax: (804) 865-1725 Hampton, VA 23681-0001
---------Speak softly and carry a +6 two-handed sword.--------------
Brian Kerr
and my brother-in-law with perfect pitch says it is off a little but I
haven't tried to fix it since I can't tell the difference and he seldom
visits. I'll offer some advice though: Yes, the slots in the top of
the mounting block turns the rods and changes the pitch (assuming yours
is like mine). I would wait until you have the whole thing solidly
mounted and the hammers adjusted properly before you decide that the
sound is unacceptable since the "sounding board" effect is substantial.
The tone can also be changed by adding or removing weight anywhere but
particularly at the end of the rod. I don't know exactly how much would
be required. I would be cautious of too much adjusting causing the rod
to be held loosely in the mounting block. You might need to add some
lock-tite to the top (not below since it might effect the pitch) after
adjusting. I would also try to find a way to record the original
position or the rods before messing with them, either with a small mark
at the point where the go into the block or by recording the number of
turns you do while adjusting. There's my two cents.
BTW mine keeps excellent time (when I remember to wind it). I don't
know which pendulum you have but mine has considerable play in the
adjusting nut where it pushes up or down on the bob. (I have a wooden
pendulum shaft). I have found that it adjusts the easiest by starting
out with the pendulum too long, hence the clock runs slow, then
adjusting the nut upward until it runs just slightly fast and then
backing off on the nut. The bob will not move for a bit so the nut
movement itself acts as a "fine" adjustment. Also I find it easier to
approach it from the "slow" direction since that way you don't have to
back up the clock through a chime time (which may not hurt it but I was
concerned. If you are putting it on carpet put something heavy in the
base and allow the carpet to get mashed down before final leveling.
Given that you said you had good tone perception you may have god
perception for rythm as well. Use the sound of the ticking to make sure
the movement is level. The ticks will be "even" when it is right.
I finished mine with tung oil - sorry about the varathane bubbles - I
think thinning it is the proper approach but others can help you better
than I can.
Good Luck,
Brian
Kevin Marlowe (mar...@cscsun3.larc.nasa.gov) wrote:
: I'm in the final stages of building a grandfather clock from a kit by Emperor
--
Brian W. Kerr
Hewlett-Packard Company
Personal Measurements Operation
Colorado Springs, Colorado
bk...@col.hp.com
Jeff Anderson
thinks the chimes may have been tuned before shipping, but I had to bend them
slightly. The way the clock is designed, the pendulum will strike the chimes
unless you bend them out of the way. After bending, they now sound noticeably
out of tune. I agree that adjusting the hammers will not affect the pitch of
chimes. The only way to change the pitch is to change the length. I have not
been brave enough to adjust mine yet. How about you try it and let me know
if it gets better? :)
jayg...@gmail.com
> I'm in the final stages of building a grandfather clock from a kit by Emperor
> Clock Co. of Fairhope, AL. It's taken me about a year, on and off, and I've got
> only two remaining problems: (1) bubbles in the Varithane finish, and (2) tuning
> the chimes. The bubbles I'll ask about in another post, but the chimes really
> bug me - they're badly out of tune. I guess my musician's ear is a little
> over-sensitive to it, but does anybody have experience tuning these things?
>
> I called the factory; they said to adjust the distance the hammer travels to
> strike the chime, but I think they're confusing flat (dull, muffled tone) with
> flat (too low in pitch). There are adjustment screws at the top of the assembly,
> but the factory advised me never to touch those, so that's probably what I
> should do...
>
> Any thoughts? Thanks -KLM
> --
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Kevin L. Marlowe Computer Sciences Corporation
> ---------Speak softly and carry a +6 two-handed sword.--------------
I had had a problem with chimes in that there was a clinker. I took out the board and tested the tone and mine had one 'chime' that was flat/dull. I realize that is not your problem but, this leads to what relates to comments here. I found that as soon as I loosened the rod screw on top, the sound went completely flat. There was an immediate loss of vibrancy with just a single turn. I would up taking it out and there was some crud in there like some sort of packing or perhaps some sort of lock tite in a putty form? I don't know what but, cleaned up, I was able to put it back with and tightened to original bottom, it rang true again. I also think it change the actual tone itself. So I suspect debris in the hole through the iron block could affect the pitch too.
I was wondering if shimming the screw head would make any difference in tone but, didn't have occasion to try it.
One thing that concerns me is that were the iron rod went into the brass screw thread head, the rod was corroded with significant pitting. Does anybody know if replacement rods are available. In case anybody wonders, paperwork with mine had it made or at least received in 1974.
As for bubbles in your finish, nothing for it but to sand it down or strip and start over. Depends on the degree of area bubbled up I reckon.
To me, nothing brings out the beauty of wood like an oil finish. Now, there are new finishes like wiping poly which go on like oil but dry much faster and do not need the maintenance an oil finish does. Also finishes like "Homer Formby's "tung oil finish" Be advised there's more tung oil in the lael than the can! It's basically a varnish. My main fault with those are they start to tack so quickly you can't (at least I can't) get a good even spread before it starts to smear. I take and use such with a healthy dollop of BLO ("boiled linseed oil") or rub in a good coat of linseed oil first and then put of the modern wiping finish after. The oil underneath will prevent it's tacking so quickly and yet still dry much faster. It also has more the look of a true oil finish.
Anyway, I hope this helps somewhat at least. Good luck!
Sonny
Sand out the bubbles. Don't shake your Varathane, stir it. Use a good bristle brush, not a foam brush.
Sonny