Softening old wood putty/filler
jagman
with a wood filler from that period. I have tried my usual method of
a razor tool to pick at the putty and then try my best to locate the
screw slot and clean that. (I did scan rec.boats and found nothing
close, seems most people are in fiberglass land).
This particular putty is above the water line and is much harder than
I expected. Is there a method of softening this old putty that will
allow me to get it out in large chunks and possible even get a clean
shot at the screw head?
Or any other sugestions? I am considering using one of the spot weld
removal tools I have for repairs panels on my cars, but I'm concerned
it might be too agressive at tear out as well as making to big a hole
that will weekend the wood.
The wood is in very good shape, I need to remove it to gain access of
wood that isn't in very good shape! That will probably be another
post.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
John Grossbohlin
"jagman" <goin...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4a2c42c7-fdb5-4426...@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
>I am working on a 1965 boat and need to remove screws that are covered
> with a wood filler from that period. I have tried my usual method of
> a razor tool to pick at the putty and then try my best to locate the
> screw slot and clean that. (I did scan rec.boats and found nothing
> close, seems most people are in fiberglass land).
>
> This particular putty is above the water line and is much harder than
> I expected. Is there a method of softening this old putty that will
> allow me to get it out in large chunks and possible even get a clean
> shot at the screw head?
I'd try a heat gun... funny and useful things sometimes happen with heat.
;~)
John
dpb
> I am working on a 1965 boat and need to remove screws that are covered
> ... Is there a method of softening this old putty that will
> allow me to get it out in large chunks and possible even get a clean
> shot at the screw head?
Might try some acetone -- it was the solvent for stuff like Plastic
Wood, etc.
>
> Or any other sugestions? I am considering using one of the spot weld
> removal tools I have for repairs panels on my cars, but I'm concerned
> it might be too agressive at tear out as well as making to[o] big a hole
...
One thing I have used in the past has been a hole punch (like a leather
or gasket hole). It'll ruin one for it's intended purpose but can turn
the filler into a plug that (at least sometimes) can then be popped
loose from the underneath in at least chunks if not whole.
Clean slots is, in my experience only a small chisel or similar to start
and go from there.
Sounds like pita work time, sorry... :) Good luck.
--
Lew Hodgett
"jagman" wrote:
>I am working on a 1965 boat and need to remove screws that are
>covered
> with a wood filler from that period.
<snip>
When working on a "woodie", a 1,500 Watt heat gun and a lot of
patience are your friends.
If you estimate the job will take 1 month, it will take 6.
Trust me, been there, done that, but what the heck, you're "working on
the boat", you don't punch a clock when it comes to THE boat.
Lew
B A R R Y
>
> Trust me, been there, done that, but what the heck, you're "working on
> the boat", you don't punch a clock when it comes to THE boat.
Or the airplane...
Few understand just how much sheet metal there is to wash and wax, much
less that you have to do the BOTTOM, too!
Barry
Who has never waxed the bottom of his car, but has waxed the bottom of
wings, and the stabilator, and the fuselage...
jagman
everything except the airplane wax...I'll call Barry over when it's
time to caulk and paint the bottom of the boat and he can compare that
with waxing the bottom of wings and fuselage.
I have two sets of punches for making gaskets (I'm old I forget what
I own already) so I may sacrafice one of those as a trial. I'll
probably save the heat gun for last since I have successfully "cooked"
some wood in the past while being distracted. Of course if I try the
heat gun right after trying the acetone I won't have to worry about
finishing the job.
But Lew is right, it is a boat, and I made sure they have my stern
facing the river so I can go up on the fying bridge with a Bucklers
and binoculars and cool off when my fingers get tired. Which reminds
me that I'll have to bring my favorite spring tool dental pics along
for the fun too.
Thanks once again for the prompt replys and help.
Artemus
I've successfully used an electric soldering iron in this kind of situation.
Depending on how small the putty bungs are you may need to file the tip
of the iron into a smaller profile. Let the iron heat up and stick it right in
the center of the putty. Wiggle it around and use it to dig out the putty.
It's slow but it gets the job done.
Art
"jagman" wrote in message ...
Lew Hodgett
"Artemus" wrote:
> You're probably concerned with not damaging the surrounding wood.
> I've successfully used an electric soldering iron in this kind of
> situation.
Get a hand held handle with a 40Watt screw in tip.
Any electronics supply house will have a selection of Weller or
similar.
Change tips to fit, don't file down, you will destroy it.
Lew
"<<<__ Bøb __>>>"
jagman
irons to choose from including a variable heat one, but I may just try
my good old standby woodburning iron that I got as a teenager and has
become my doing anything soldering iron. I will try that sheet metal
screw idea first but I suspect this stuff is so old it will mostly
crumble, but then that might be a good thing. For a change I think I
have the tools on hand to use, darn a lost opportunity to spend money
on more tools. How did I ever live with just a bit brace and hand saw
and hammer? I remember my Dad's first electric drill, we were the
first in our neighborhood!
Thanks again to all for the ideas.
dadiOH
> I am working on a 1965 boat and need to remove screws that are covered
> with a wood filler from that period. I have tried my usual method of
> a razor tool to pick at the putty and then try my best to locate the
> screw slot and clean that. (I did scan rec.boats and found nothing
> close, seems most people are in fiberglass land).
>
> This particular putty is above the water line and is much harder than
> I expected. Is there a method of softening this old putty that will
> allow me to get it out in large chunks and possible even get a clean
> shot at the screw head?
Are you sure it is putty/filler? I can't imagine anyone using that.
Certainly not on planking. The normal way to fill countersunk fastenings is
with face grain wood plugs. For those, it is easy to split them with a
small screwdriver blade and pop out the pieces. There may be residual glue
in the slot of the fastening, just has to be dug out. The sheet metal screw
thing will work on plugs too.
If it is actually putty best bet is linseed oil putty and heat would soften
that. If you are taking off fittings, the putty is most likely bedding
compound that squeezed out around the screws and wasn't cleaned off. It is
linseed oil putty with a fungicide in it.
Be sure to use a properly sized screwdriver when you remove the screws.
Wrong size = messed up screw slot and that = a real PITA. If the screws are
any size a brace with screwdriver bit is the easiest thing to use to take
them out. If they are stubborn, try tightening slightly then turn them out.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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Ian Malcolm
screw heads on my Albacore dinghy. Just crumble it and pick it out with
a sharpened small screwdriver. I dont know anything that dissolves it.
Stubborn screw should be attacked with the most powerfull electric
soldering iron you have. Scrape the head to expose clean metal, then
with a little dab of solder for better thermal contact, hold the tip off
centre (you dont want solder in the slot) on the head and 'cook' it for
at least a minute. Then apply screwdriver, give it a light to medium
tap to aid freeing the screw and make sure the bit is fully seated in
the slot and procede as above.
I got a ~80% success rate extracting ancient salt water corroded brass
screws from my keelband that way. If I didn't heat them I was getting
about a 20% success rate. Only silicone bronze screws went back in! ;-)
--
Ian Malcolm. London, ENGLAND. (NEWSGROUP REPLY PREFERRED)
ianm[at]the[dash]malcolms[dot]freeserve[dot]co[dot]uk
[at]=@, [dash]=- & [dot]=. *Warning* HTML & >32K emails --> NUL:
'Stingo' Albacore #1554 - 15' Early 60's, Uffa Fox designed,
All varnished hot moulded wooden racing dinghy.
jagman
than what I was doing. What I had started with were the flooring
boards in the cabin, because I needed access to some nuts that came
thru the hull planks (it's what they call double planked, one row of
real planks over the top of plywood, and of course the plywood is what
is giving me problems due to former owner not caulking the planks
correctly).
Once I removed the thru bolts, it was clear there were many screws
that were fastened to these cross members from the planks outside (I
thought the planks were only fastened to the main cross members, these
are just some braces.
Bottom line is the best solution on the underside of the hull was to
use my gasket hole punches. One or two whacks would get the whole
plug including most if not all of what was in the slot. However these
were mostly silicon caulk plugs rather than the wood putty plugs above
decks. (In regards to the point regarding wood plugs, I have found
that those tend to only be used in visible areas such as the teak
decking, and mahogeny deck surround).
Something that dawned on me towards the end was to try chucking the
punch into my drill. Unfortunately the drills I had at the boatyard
were all 3/8" and it would have taken a 1/2" chuck to accept the size
punch I was using. If I find I need to continue this removal process
I may try that out.
Bottom line for anyone who bumps into this thread in the future, I'd
try the punch method first. Harbor Freight (or Horrible Fright
depending on your outlook on cheap tools) sells these for $5
http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=gasket+punch.
As somewhat of an aside, there were a couple of screws that were
"stripped" due to dry rot, so although the head was intact, they would
not back out, and it was difficult to get a pick behind the head to
help it along. I finally decided to try my "Grabit" screw removal
set. I was very amazed and please with the results. First you
burnish the screw with one end which obliterates the screw slots. In
one case the screw came out with just the burnishing tool which is
pretty much a backward drill bit head. Then you reverse the bit and
the thing really grabs onto the screw and pulls in out. One caveat,
these were all brass screws, so your mileage may vary with other types
of screws.
I've used this group many times in the past just by using search, so
I've not had the opportunity to say thanks, so regulars, please accept
this as a thanks for past information as well.
dpb
...
> Bottom line is the best solution on the underside of the hull was to
> use my gasket hole punches. One or two whacks would get the whole
> Bottom line for anyone who bumps into this thread in the future, I'd
> try the punch method first. Harbor Freight (or Horrible Fright
> depending on your outlook on cheap tools) sells these for $5
> http://search.harborfreight.com/cpisearch/web/search.do?keyword=gasket+punch.
> I've used this group many times in the past just by using search, so
> I've not had the opportunity to say thanks, so regulars, please accept
> this as a thanks for past information as well.
Well, kewl... :)
I had success that way previously so glad it worked for you, too...
--