Hot dipped galvanized nails should be okay. See:
http://www.soundcedar.com/lumber/siding/installation/nails.php
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
nov...@verizon.net
If you do not want the nails to "bleed" all over the holes use stainless.
The reaction is to the stuff in cedar that makes it the wood resist rotting.
Does not matter if the nails are painted over they will rust in short order.
Mine did and I switched to stainless - no more rot and no more bleeding
P D Q
I had a gorgeous cedar clapboard job ruined because the nails gave up
the ghost. The dark streaks made it an eyesore. If it's painted
you'll _probably_ not have a problem with galvanized nails, but I'd
use stainless anyway. It's cheap insurance.
R
Yes, sounds right. When we bought cedar to clad my folks' retirement
home, the supplier warned us against galv and suggested bronze or
stainless nails. We used the bronze ... just have to be careful to hit
them square on (which is why we didn't let my father nail any). He's an
old sailor with two left hands and 10 thumbs.
-P.
Well, McFeeley's is in the business of selling stainless steel nails,
so they might be a bit overselling, but here's a link that claims hot
dip galvanized nails aren't the best option with Western Red cedar:
http://www.mcfeelys.com/stainless-nails
On the other hand, the Cedar Shake & Shingle Bureau recommends
stainless, hot-dipped zinc, or aluminum nails.
http://www.cedarbureau.org/installation/wall_manual/page05.htm
Suffice to say, the coating on a galvanized nail might fail and might
stain, while stainless will not.
If you go with galvanized, get double hot-dipped nails, which should
eliminate defects in the coating that will stain.
>> Jim
My 30 year old cedar sided house has spiral galvanized nails, acrylic
"stain" and nary a rust spot. Maybe those old nails were better.
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
All stressed out, and no one to choke...
Thank you. The siding that I am replacing has galvanized nails and I see no sign
of stain. The siding was installed in 1972. I will go with galvanized. Now to
see if I can use a nail gun.
I have not heard that "you" can't". ;~) I build more fences than the
average wood worker. I build them with cedar and galvanized ring shank
nails, in a nail gun. You will get some discoloration, eventually, if left
exposed to the elements.
IF you are also using any "modern pressure treated wood" be sure and get
the ACQ specified galvanized nails or they will react with the PT wood and
fail prematurely.
http://www.sportcompactcar.info/4084364/987676/Phillips-Ii-Cedar-Screws-User-Review-44763.html
"Chuck" <cbac...@attt.net> wrote in message
news:uznll.372822$Mh5....@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Hot-dip galvanized nails should work ok, provided that they have a
good, thick coating. The problem I've seen in the past few years is
that the coating is not nearly as thick as in the past, and it can
crack and flake when being pounded in to the wood. Of course, a path
for water into the steel will lead to bleeding.
When I installed my cedar deck, all of the reputable advice (e.g., not
from the fastener manufacturers) recommended stainless steel fasteners
for cedar, so I swallowed hard and bought stainless. Still looks
great! Except now I kick myself for not swallowing a bit harder and
buying ipe decking.
Does "They don't make them like they used to." soud familiar?? <G>
P D Q
OK I am gonna use SS. Screws. Square drive and about 2 1/2" long,
Thanks to all for the input. Really appreciate it. Chuck
CAUTION: There're two kinds of galvanized: dipped and plated. Make sure you
get the dipped.
Good choice. The SS screws won't rust like the galvanized. SS won't
streak wood like galvanized.