How to unglue something without wrecking the wood
Dick Snyder
made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck the
wood doing that.
What is your advice?
TIA.
Dick Snyder
Dick Snyder
piece of cherry so I have to loosen the glue in a 3/4" by 26" joint.
"Dick Snyder" <REMOVEdi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:M8qdndaWPMPHgkbR...@giganews.com...
Lew Hodgett
"Dick Snyder" wrote:
>I should have mentioned that a 3/4" piece of cherry is glued to a
>second piece of cherry so I have to loosen the glue in a 3/4" by 26"
>joint.
-------------------------
Time for a 1500 watt heat gun and a putty knife.
Lew
Larry W
If possible, for instance if this is a panel glue-up, just rip along the glue
line and compensate for the loss of kerf thickness somewhere. In my own
experience, trying to separate 2 pieces glued with yellow glue is a crap
shoot. Whether you try softening the glue with water or some other solvent,
there is still a good possibility that wood on either side will crack
before the glueline separates. If you can just rip or saw the glueline,
you will be in controll of what happens, with other methods there's
no way to be certain what will happen.
--
There are no stupid questions, but there are lots of stupid answers.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar. org
-MIKE-
I don't think it would ruin the wood.
You'd probably have to let it air dry for quite a while.
If you can submerge it steam, that may work.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Dick Snyder
"Larry W" <lwas...@sdf.lNoOnSePsAtMar.org> wrote in message
news:ibf9mg$p9a$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
I have a piece of cherry 26" long edge glued at a 90 degree angle (actually
it is 85 degrees which is the problem!). I can't really rip the joint
without ruining both pieces of wood. I will glue up a test sample and try a
heat gun per Lew's suggestion to see what happens to the cherry.
Sonny
eassilly happen if you don't watch carefully.
Sonny
-MIKE-
> I vote for the heat gun, also. Just don't burn your wood, which can
> eassilly happen if you don't watch carefully.
>
That's what she said.
RonB
> In article <M8qdndaWPMPHgkbRnZ2dnUVZ_rqdn...@giganews.com>,
I'll Jump in with Larry on this. If you have extra width to work
with, rip through the glue joint and re-do it. I recently restored
an antique elm claw -foot table that had several cracks in the glue
joints (likely animal glue) in the top. After some careful measuring
and head scratching I ended up ripping through the joints and re-glued
them. In this case, I had to compensate for width with the edge trim
but it worked quite well. If width is an issue, you might be able to
use a thin-kerf blade.
RonB
joelj...@aol.com
> .... I made a mistake gluing two pieces of cherry with yellow glue. My first
> instinct is to use water to soften the glue but I wonder if I will wreck the
> wood doing that.
>
> What is your advice?
Try white vinegar
Jim Weisgram
Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And vinegar
will loosen it as well.
But not Titebond II.
Not sure about other kinds of PVA glue. If they are general purpose,
heat or vinegar should do the trick.
Lew Hodgett
"Jim Weisgram" wrote:
> Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And
> vinegar
> will loosen it as well.
>
> But not Titebond II.
--------------------------
Interesting, have never used TBI, but have used lots of TBII.
Have always been able to loosen TBII with a heat gun.
It's been a while, but when I asked tech support in Columbus, they
recommended heat.
Lew
Lew
Dick Snyder
"Jim Weisgram" <jwei...@remove2reply.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:hckod6pk47oo5b9k9...@4ax.com...
I used Titebond I.
whit3rd
> "Jim Weisgram" wrote:
> > Which brand/formulation? Titebond I will loosen with heat. And
> > vinegar
> > will loosen it as well.
> > But not Titebond II.
All the Titebond glues are PVA types, and PVA softens at about
boiling-water heat (or maybe less). I've used hot water with
vinegar and it worked, but maybe it was mainly the heat.
Dick Snyder
"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:4cdb296c$0$17365$c3e8da3$b280...@news.astraweb.com...
I tried a mix of warm water and vinegar on sample 1 and a heat gun on sample
2. I had no luck with sample 1. I am using Titebond Original and their
website says to try a heat gun or hairdryer or maybe a steam iron. On sample
2 I was successful at breaking the bond with a heat gun. That is the good
news. I also managed to darken the cherry (i.e., burned it) with the heat
gun. I tried some sanding and I'm sure after enough work the wood might look
OK again. However, before going through all that I thought I would check
with the group to get your advice.
I held the head of the heat gun fairly close to the wood which is what
probably burned it. Had I held it further away or used less heat, I wonder
if I would have broken the bond (in a reasonable amount of time) and also
not burned the wood. I will make up another sample and try the heat gun but
first I wanted to get some advice.
TIA.
Dick Snyder
Lew Hodgett
"Dick Snyder" wrote:
> 2 I was successful at breaking the bond with a heat gun. That is the
> good news. I also managed to darken the cherry (i.e., burned it)
> with the heat gun.
------------------------------------
Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the
seam, then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor
of heat.
When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that
it remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
Budget at least an hour for this job.
Be PATIENT.
Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
Have fun.
Lew
Morgans
"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote
> ------------------------------------
> Patience is a virtue when working with a heat gun.
>
> Keep the gun 4"-6" away from wood, play it back and forth continuously
> over a 10"-12" glue seam until the glue softens someplace along the seam,
> then insert the edge of a flexible putty knife.
>
> Keep the putty knife moving since the metal blade is a good conductor of
> heat.
>
> When an edge softens, move down the joint another 3"-6" and continue.
>
> BTW, clamp one side of the glue joint with some kind of vice so that it
> remains in one place while you apply pressure with the putty knife.
>
> Budget at least an hour for this job.
>
> Be PATIENT.
>
> Lack of patience is your worst enemy for this task.
Yep. Wood is a pretty good insulator. It takes a while for the heat to get
to the glue.
--
Jim in NC
Andrew Barss
: "Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote
I wonder if it would be more effective to place the putty knife carfully right at the joint,
then heat the metal up a lot. Wouldn't this localize the heat right on the glue line?
-- Andy Barss
Lew Hodgett
"Andrew Barss" wrote:
> I wonder if it would be more effective to place the putty knife
> carfully right at the joint,
> then heat the metal up a lot. Wouldn't this localize the heat right
> on the glue line?
-------------------------------------
You have to be very careful and not let the knife get too hot or it
can burn the wood.
Again, PATIENCE is a virtue.
Lew
Larry Jaques
Ayup. It's rated at a whopping R-1, Morgy. <bseg>
--
To the well-organized mind, death is but the next great adventure.
-- J. K. Rowling
Dick Snyder
Dick
Morgans
"Lew Hodgett" <sails...@verizon.net> wrote
> You have to be very careful and not let the knife get too hot or it can
> burn the wood.
>
> Again, PATIENCE is a virtue.
Totally agree.
The glue needs to get hot all over and all through all at the same time.
That takes (here it comes again) PATIENCE ! ! !
A low heat applied for a long time.
--
Jim in NC
kennethwh...@gmail.com
dadiOH
news:a1f14ae8-4700-41bc...@googlegroups.com
> I get them apart to re finish them
apart and glue back together later. But why do you have to take it apart
to refinish??
--
dadiOH
____________________________
Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net
yvonned...@gmail.com
Unknown
3e0f35...@googlegroups.com:
> open cubert glued together. Want to change botom to match counter top
>
of the cabinets you want to keep nice.
You may need to put a new bottom over the old to change things.
Puckdropper
--
Make it to fit, don't make it fit.
Walter Riegler
> I should have mentioned that a 3/4" piece of cherry is glued to a second
Since it is just two boards, if your kitchen oven is wide enough, you could set it at 210º-215º F and leave there until the glue softens.
Puckdropper
news:08eb01a2-0eac-4cb9...@googlegroups.com:
Yep, I know the thread is older than my cat. Just looked interesting.
Puckdropper
Walter Riegler
Leon
> It would probably work if the piece would fit. Most steamer boxes I have seen are long and narrow. My other concern would be whether the steam would warp the piece.
>
>> How about a Steamer Box?
Steam for Hide glue.
Vinegar for modern water based glues.
Sonny
I've been working on a related case for the past 2 weeks.
Background: 2016 flood affected a slat-back oak chair dining set. Dr. owner had a patient do the repairs, refinishing. The patient, I think, didn't know what all to do, what to do properly and/or should be done. Seems the chair seats had warped and started coming apart... several boards per seat. Chair frames had come apart to some extent, also. Since flood damaged, don't have to worry about messing up a finish.... re: heat gun use.
The guy tried to glue the boards back together without cleaning the edges or jointing them square, to mate properly. Lots of mold and mildew still on the board's edges. He ended up with gaps between the boards, then tried a white-ish filler to fill the gaps (on brown boards). *Subsequent stain on the chairs is Old Masters Provincial stain.
Beyond that, he seemed to not clean the stretchers for re-gluing into the legs. He shot wire nails in some, for further securing. He shot wire nails in some of the backrest slats, as well. I haven't/won't attempt to remove these nails.
I separated the seat boards using a heat gun. I worked the heat along the whole length and the boards slowly separated. Took about a hour each seat. On all 4 seats there were some glue lines that I sawed through, rather than using the heat gun. I flattened any major warping, then jointed the edges clean and square before gluing. Also added a strip of white oak to make up for removed seat width, from jointing and sawing.
Yesterday evening I put the first coat of finish on. 9 pics, scroll right.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/50305511518/in/photostream
Sonny