Shooting board question - which plane?

[TJ]

I am reasonably new to woodworking, but as I have more time now I have
started to look into manuals and advice things etc.

After seeing a shooting board somewhere, I made one, and tried it out on a
box I am making for my smoothing plane. I couldn't believe the difference it
makes to getting a square finish on the end grain.

My question is this, what plane is most suitable for squaring up the ends of
boards etc?
I used the smoothing plane, (scary sharpened) which worked fine, but I only
ask because of two "not sure" points,
1. I thought Block planes are best for end grain?
2. In the pictures I have seen a Jack plane being used.

What does everyone else use?

Thanks

TJ

[Tony D.]

Glad to hear you got yours to work.
I did'nt have too much luck with mine, but in a movie I had about
tuneing a hand plane, the author (Mike Dunbar) used a # 4 , so I think
you'r "on the right Track"
Thanks, Tony D.

"TJ" <w...@where.com> wrote in message news:<100905101...@eurus.uk.clara.net>...

[toolsforworkingwood]

Since I now have a shop with no power tools I must say the a shute board
is the next best thing to sliced bread.
Ulitmatly it doesn't matter which plane you use on your shooting board
because the accuracy is provided by the shooting board - not the plane.
Block planes however I would think are too small to be moved back and
forth comfortably when resting on a shoot board.
The Stanley shute board plane for example is about the same length as a
number five, skew cutting, with a standard 45 deg frog. THe skew cutting
isn't hugly important and mitre planes were rarely skew cutting.

I would use a number 4 or 5. But a 6 would be fine too. If you have a 5
1/2 or a 4 1/2" the extra width may come in handy. If your budget can
stand it I would suggest a thicker iron and possible an A2 or hand
forged blade - the reason being that with a shute board plane you are
always using the exact same part of the blade - so a longer lasting
blade is nice.

If you use it a lot you may want to add a vertical handle - not
essentile but nice to have.

Bob

--
The Museum of Woodworking Tools
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com
http://www.antiquetools.com

[Pam Niedermayer]

Pretty much whatever's handy. If not using a shooting board, a wooden
spokeshave works. If nothing is handy, reach for the LN 140.

Pam

TJ wrote:

--
Pamela G. Niedermayer
Pinehill Softworks Inc.
600 W. 28th St., Suite 103
Austin, TX 78705
512-236-1677
http://www.pinehill.com

[Monte Engel]

If you are jointing the ends of boards, any plane that cuts the end cleanly
is fine. If you are jointing the edge, and it is a longer piece, you will
want to go to a #7 or #8. (I have two shooting boards, one 30" long, one
60" long.)

"Pam Niedermayer" <pam_...@cape.com> wrote in message
news:3C2524FD...@cape.com...

[Lyn J. Mangiameli]

TJ,
IMO the characteristics of a good shooting board plane are important in roughly
this order.
1. A plane long enough to register well against the shooting board surfaces and
wide enougth to deal with the height of the wood being planed.
2. A plane with sides that are optimally square to the sole
3. A plane with sufficient mass to maintain momentum when encountering endgrain

4. A plane with a thick, hard blade such as a 3/16 LN, an A2 or M4 blade to
stand up to the stresses of cutting hardwood endgrain (this item moved lower
down the list if you are only working with soft woods)
5. A low angle plane or a skewed higher angle plane to deal most effectively
with endgrain. (this one move higher if dealing primarily with softwoods).

Thus a lot of planes meet at least some of the above criteria. Depending on the
size of your shooting board and the wood being planed, you can successfully use
anything from a block plane to a #8 bench plane. The plane that probably best
meets the above criteria is a #9 Stanley or Lie-Nielsen. I have the latter and
love it, but must admit that many will find it difficult to justify such an
expensive and limited use plane. My next preference would be the LN 162 (a
bevel up, low angle Jack plane), then the LN Low Angle Smoothing Plane (or
other similar LA "bench" plane), then a standard angle # 5.5 or #6, then a
standard angle #5 or #4.

Lyn

[Brian Shutter]

My shooting board is approximately 8" deep and has the same basic design as
a bench hook (as most are). I like to use a #7 because of its heft and also
because its heel will hang over the edge of my bench; I use my hip to push
the plane while using my right hand to guide the plane. If I'm only shooting
the end of one or two pieces I use the plane which is closest to me. I have
tuned all my planes to have the right side square to the sole.

Good luck

Brian

"TJ" <w...@where.com> wrote in message
news:100905101...@eurus.uk.clara.net...

[TJ]

thx for tips

"TJ" <w...@where.com> wrote in message
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[Frank McVey]

Hi TJ

I have two shooting boards - I use the long one with a No 7 for edge
jointing. I use the short one with a low-angle block plane for trimming end
grain.

Cheers

Frank