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Recipes for Milk Paint

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Robert M Sandock

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Oct 2, 1993, 1:34:56 PM10/2/93
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As one of the previous replies this comes from FWW Dec'91,No.91. By
Richard Fitch.

Large art or paint suppliers should have most of the supplies you need. If
not mail order for whiteing (calcium carbonate) casein and alkali-proof
earth pigments (compatible with lime) from Johnson Paint Co.Inc.,355
Newbury St.,Boston,MA 02115 (617) 536-4838.

Dry powder paint (just add water)is also at their store. They happen to be
a few blocks up from the shop I work at.

Painting in milk (makes about 1/2 gal.)

4 lbs. skim milk
4 oz. oil of poppy, linseed, or nut oil
6 oz. lime newly slaked,(This is hydrated lime available from garden
stores as a soil supplement.)
3 lbs. Spanish white, or whiteing

Put lime in a clean bucket. Pour milk in. Add oil gradually stiring
mixture. Add whiteing gradually by sifting it onto the surface of the
mixture (the same way you add flour to make gravy).Too mutch at a time
will give it lumps that are a pain to get out. Let it sit on the surface
until it sinks then stir it in.

After base mixture is made (White), color if desired. Dry pigment is also
available from Johnson Paint (art dept.).

Things to note.

- Milk paint has a coarse texture, and is not glossy.
- Works best on clean porous surfaces (unfinished wood) however it can be
applied over flat latex.
- Should be about the consistancy of heavy cream. Use a soft brush to apply.
- Color can be made deeper by finishing with oil when dry. Danish, tung,
or boiled linseed 50/50 mineral spirits. Or oil-base varnish,
polyurethane, etc. - It is best to use within about two days or it
starts to smell like ammonia.

I hope this helps. Have fun.

BOB

rsan...@world.std.com

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