Thanks,
-Phil Crow
Use the self threading anchors similar to the ones that screw into sheet
rock. Or mount it high enough on the door that you hit the solid piece at
the top.
Why not?
JOAT
If you can't say anything nice about someone, you must be talking about
Hilary Clinton.
> JOAT
> If you can't say anything nice about someone, you must be talking about
> Hilary Clinton.
Love your tagline. Wanna Swap?
--
Gerald Ross
Cochran, GA
I couldn't care less about apathy.
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Another option is use straps over the top of the door (like you do with
wreaths at Christmas.
One word of caution. If this thing is as heavy as you are worried it might
be, are you sure the hinges and door are substantial enough to hold the
weight?
Deb
>I'm building a fairly substantial spice rack (18x38) and am planning to
>hang it on the inside of my pantry door. I'm worried, though, that the
>rack, loaded with spices, may just pull out screws that I'd drive
>through the veneer. Any suggestions? Liquid Nails, maybe?
I'm having a senior moment and can't remember the name of the damn
fastner. (Not a toggle bolt)
You want the fastner used in drywall sheet rock.
Drill about a 7/16" hole insert fastener, then tighten up with 3/16"
screw machine included.
Back out screw, hang rack, etc.
This is basically a shear load, so NBD.
15 minutes after I send this, I'm going to remember the name of that
f**king fastner.<G>
Lew
>
> 15 minutes after I send this, I'm going to remember the name of that
> f**king fastner.<G>
>
> Lew
Okay Lew, 15 minutes are up. :-) Take your pick:
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/inffastener/infanchor/infanchor.shtm
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
no-SPA...@adelphia.net
(Remove -SPAM- to send email)
> Okay Lew, 15 minutes are up. :-) Take your pick:
Molly Bolt.
BTW, it only took about 2 minutes<G>.
Too many yaers in the hardware store I guess.
Lew
Phil:
If the door is not a hollow core, it shouldn't be a problem to get a
decent bite with the screw.
If it is, I'd think about including a french cleat in the design. The
part that goes on the door can be glued and pinned.
It might be nice to do it this way because it might be more convenient
to be able to remove the spice rack when it's time to clean or stock
it.
Tom Watson - WoodDorker
tjwatson1ATcomcastDOTnet (real email)
>through the veneer. Any suggestions? Liquid Nails, maybe?
I think some kind of adhesive could work as long as you don't need to
remove it. You may want to scuff up the existing finish on the door
(behind the spice rack) as the glue may not stick very well to the
finish.
Mike O.
Molybolt. Will work just fine only need a 1/4
deep one
Build the rack to fit the full space between the door jambs and fasten
to the solid wood at the edge of the door or make a 3/4 inch panel the
width of the space between the door jambs then fasten the spice rack to
the panel. Some hollow core doors are little more than a cardboard
sandwich, barely enough there to hold some sort of a finish but there
is enough meat at the edges to hold a hinge.
Several good replies already, but here is my 2 cents:
It really depends on the hollow core door. I've autopsied a unit from
my house. It was a 1/8" thick panel of MDF covered with a really really
thin veneer. The side rails are about 1 inch MDF except for the area
around the door knob. The bulk of the space is a cardboard matrix. I'd
agree that a door of such construction probably can't support much weight
using screws or even molly bolts through the face. You need to:
1) screw into the top or side rails
2) Hang the blasted thing from the top
3) Get enough surface adhesion on the door to hold the shelf up.
4) French cleat.
The answer I like the best is the french cleat glued and bolted to
the panel. If possible get some screws into the rails also. So I'm
recommending a hybrid from some of the other great replies. They do
make hollow core doors of better construction. If you have something
better, than I've got, then you could go with a simpler fastening system.
DGA
Help yerself.