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finish stapler for cabinet backs
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John Shear
Jun 4, 2012, 2:54:35 PM6/4/12
to
I'm considering getting a finish stapler like the Bostitch sb-150sx to
fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
like them a lot.
Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
Is the 7/32" crown staple reasonable, or is that too narrow?
What length of staple would hold well?
Are there other uses for this stapler (the wife asks)?
John S.
fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
like them a lot.
Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
Is the 7/32" crown staple reasonable, or is that too narrow?
What length of staple would hold well?
Are there other uses for this stapler (the wife asks)?
John S.
Leon
Jun 4, 2012, 3:02:58 PM6/4/12
to
staple soffit vent trim around a storage shed. That was about 8 years
ago. I have not used the gun since.
I don't want to staple any thing that I might have half a chance of
needing to remove later.
I used to brad nail backs on cabinets but have switched to 1/2" self
taping screws. Stronger, looks better, and easier to deal with should I
decide to remove the backs for refinishing in the future.
EXT
Jun 4, 2012, 3:30:01 PM6/4/12
to
"John Shear" <jsh...@NOSPAMsgi.com> wrote in message
news:4fcd046c$0$1309$c3e8da3$3304...@news.astraweb.com...
indispensable for many things, and gets used more than I imagined
particularly for thin goods. I have even bought another that can use staples
up to 1 1/2" long. Between the two, I have used them for installing plywood
underlay, cabinet backs, even strapping on a ceiling (4 staples per joist
equals 8 nails, to test it I hung my 225 lb. weight from one joist and they
held me), the crown and double legs do not rip out of thin materials. Only
screws would be better but much slower in installation and costlier.
G.W. Ross
Jun 4, 2012, 3:36:10 PM6/4/12
to
backed Styrofoam, foil side down, with all edges meeting on two by's.
I tacked it up with staples (same gun as you mention). then I laid
2" Styrofoam on top between the joists. I finished it up using 1/4 x
2 inch strips to cover the joints and put this up with longer staples.
Hasn't given any problems after 10 years.
My back yard fence is put up using screws, but then a neighbor with 3
kids moved in next door and their back yard came up behind my shop. I
put in posts and horizontals with nails and put up dog-ear fencing
with staples. The boards are on their side and it keeps them from
climbing on the fence. I believe I used 1/4 crown staples on that.
It went up very quickly.
--
G.W. Ross
Famous last words: 'Don't worry, it
doesn't eat meat!'
FrozenNorth
Jun 4, 2012, 4:07:52 PM6/4/12
to
mainly use it for the brad nailer, but I did put some carpet down on the
stairs to the basement with the staples, it did the job quite well.
--
Froz...
The system will be down for 10 days for preventive maintenance.
tiredofspam
Jun 4, 2012, 4:18:49 PM6/4/12
to
I use a 1/4" stapler for that.
It's more secure than brads.
I wasn't sure if I would like it better than screws, and I do.
I have been using it for a few years and for me it's the way to go.
It's more secure than brads.
I wasn't sure if I would like it better than screws, and I do.
I have been using it for a few years and for me it's the way to go.
John Shear
Jun 4, 2012, 4:23:17 PM6/4/12
to
Well, I wouldn't think brad nails would hold thin material on too well.
Do the self-tapping screws recess into the back panel so they don't
interfere with mounting to a wall? What kind of head so they don't tear
through the thin material?
Btw, I will be building a shed one day and might need to staple the
soffit ;)
John S.
Do the self-tapping screws recess into the back panel so they don't
interfere with mounting to a wall? What kind of head so they don't tear
through the thin material?
Btw, I will be building a shed one day and might need to staple the
soffit ;)
John S.
Swingman
Jun 4, 2012, 5:01:55 PM6/4/12
to
On 6/4/2012 1:54 PM, John Shear wrote:
backs ... at least twice the holding power per shot over brads.
I have a dual purpose Delta nailer that shoots both 18ga brads and crown
staples, but I don't think it is made any longer.
Very similar to this:
http://www.amazon.com/Campbell-Hausfeld-CHG00100AV-4-Inch-Stapler/dp/B0046RDW44/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1338843164&sr=1-6
As long as you're getting another tool, it is nice to have two tools in
one at that price.
--
www.eWoodShop.com
Last update: 4/15/2010
KarlCaillouet@ (the obvious)
http://gplus.to/eWoodShop
Keith Nuttle
Jun 4, 2012, 5:35:55 PM6/4/12
to
inexpensive Arrow Stapler many years ago. It takes 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2
inch standard staples. We use all three sizes. While it does not get
used daily, when it does get used it gets heavy use.
I use it for routine stapling around the garage. I also use it to hold
the mated side of picture frames and stretchers, To make the final
precise cuts on the miters. Depending on the size of the sides I have
used 1/4 and 1/2 in staples. The frames are usually made of fir, pine
or any of the better quality of what is called White wood by the local
big box store. I have also used it to attach the rubber liner to the
sides of a pond.
My wife uses the staples for stretching canvas on the stretchers that I
have made. This requires 1/2 inch staples to go through the layers of
canvas.
It has never failed us, and as I said it is over 20 years old, maybe older.
EXT
Jun 4, 2012, 6:11:39 PM6/4/12
to
"Keith Nuttle" <Keith_...@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:jqj9nm$rag$1...@speranza.aioe.org...
is used for attaching cloth, screening, paper and ceiling tiles, basically
very thin material, to wood, as the staples are 1/2" crown and no longer
than 9/16". The 1/4" crown staples being discussed are heavier, and run in
lengths from 1/2" up to 1 1/2" (possibly some at 2").
Larry W
Jun 4, 2012, 7:03:48 PM6/4/12
to
In article <4fcd046c$0$1309$c3e8da3$3304...@news.astraweb.com>,
Narrow crown staples like 7/32 or 1/4 inch are great (IMO) for attaching
plywood cabinet backs. For 1/4" ply, a 3/4" staple length is plenty,
especially if you are gluing too. I've found plenty of uses for my
stapler, they hold much better than brads, and are handy for shop jigs
or other uses where appearance doesn't matter. Get some galvanized
staples and they are even good for attaching fence pickets to rails.
If your target is small, as for instance when attaching the plywood
backs in a rabbet cut in 1x stock, so that (say) you must land the staple
in a roughly 3/8" wide zone, I recommend you practice before taking
the stapler to your workpiece. Poor aim can lead to missing the carcass
and a staple poking through into the inside of the workpiece. Doesn't take
long to get a feel for where to aim. DAMHIKT.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
plywood cabinet backs. For 1/4" ply, a 3/4" staple length is plenty,
especially if you are gluing too. I've found plenty of uses for my
stapler, they hold much better than brads, and are handy for shop jigs
or other uses where appearance doesn't matter. Get some galvanized
staples and they are even good for attaching fence pickets to rails.
If your target is small, as for instance when attaching the plywood
backs in a rabbet cut in 1x stock, so that (say) you must land the staple
in a roughly 3/8" wide zone, I recommend you practice before taking
the stapler to your workpiece. Poor aim can lead to missing the carcass
and a staple poking through into the inside of the workpiece. Doesn't take
long to get a feel for where to aim. DAMHIKT.
--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.
Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org
Larry W
Jun 4, 2012, 7:06:35 PM6/4/12
to
I should have added, consider the HF 18 gauge narrow crown stapler, often
on sale for $20 or less. It's really a no-brainer at that price.
on sale for $20 or less. It's really a no-brainer at that price.
Leon
Jun 4, 2012, 7:41:05 PM6/4/12
to
On 6/4/2012 3:23 PM, John Shear wrote:
> Well, I wouldn't think brad nails would hold thin material on too well.
> Do the self-tapping screws recess into the back panel so they don't
> interfere with mounting to a wall? What kind of head so they don't tear
> through the thin material?
Shoot the brads in at an angle, do that from both sides, top and bottom
> Well, I wouldn't think brad nails would hold thin material on too well.
> Do the self-tapping screws recess into the back panel so they don't
> interfere with mounting to a wall? What kind of head so they don't tear
> through the thin material?
and they oppose each other.
Do your cabinets actually flush up to the wall? I use washer head
screws so they do not pull through, they are specifically made to mount
drawer slides. Typically however if you recess the back 1/16" more than
their thickneaa the heads will not show. If the backs are exposed on
the edges screws won't make that look much worse.
Larry Jaques
Jun 4, 2012, 8:22:48 PM6/4/12
to
On Mon, 04 Jun 2012 13:54:35 -0500, John Shear <jsh...@NOSPAMsgi.com>
wrote:
>I'm considering getting a finish stapler like the Bostitch sb-150sx to
>fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
>example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
>like them a lot.
>Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
>but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
Good manufacturers (aka: NICE people) use screws. Cheaparse, penny
pinching corporate types use staplers. ;)
>Is the 7/32" crown staple reasonable, or is that too narrow?
Too narrow.
>What length of staple would hold well?
Probably 1/2" long.
>Are there other uses for this stapler (the wife asks)?
Yes, like reupholstering your own furniture. I use my 1/2" crown
stapler for that and small wood projects.
http://tinyurl.com/d3b4v79 and http://tinyurl.com/6o4u9ts
Whatever you do, don't buy an electric stapler. They're all gutless,
no matter how much you pay for them.
As I finish up this reply, I suddenly realize you were talking about
furniture cabinet backs, not speaker cabinets. My only other thought
about it is to glue them, too, and that most I've seen are probably
1/4" crown if they're not screwed, brad-nailed, or just glued.
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson
wrote:
>I'm considering getting a finish stapler like the Bostitch sb-150sx to
>fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
>example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
>like them a lot.
>Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
>but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
pinching corporate types use staplers. ;)
>Is the 7/32" crown staple reasonable, or is that too narrow?
>What length of staple would hold well?
>Are there other uses for this stapler (the wife asks)?
stapler for that and small wood projects.
http://tinyurl.com/d3b4v79 and http://tinyurl.com/6o4u9ts
Whatever you do, don't buy an electric stapler. They're all gutless,
no matter how much you pay for them.
As I finish up this reply, I suddenly realize you were talking about
furniture cabinet backs, not speaker cabinets. My only other thought
about it is to glue them, too, and that most I've seen are probably
1/4" crown if they're not screwed, brad-nailed, or just glued.
--
Shake off all the fears of servile prejudices, under which weak minds
are servilely crouched. Fix reason firmly in her seat, and call on her
tribunal for every fact, every opinion. Question with boldness even the
existence of a God; because, if there be one, he must more approve of
the homage of reason than that of blindfolded fear.
-- Thomas Jefferson
Larry Jaques
Jun 4, 2012, 8:25:04 PM6/4/12
to
On Mon, 4 Jun 2012 23:06:35 +0000 (UTC),
lwas...@sdf.lNoOnSePsAtMar.org (Larry W) wrote:
>I should have added, consider the HF 18 gauge narrow crown stapler, often
>on sale for $20 or less. It's really a no-brainer at that price.
And they're indestructable. I have nearly zero misfires at anything
lwas...@sdf.lNoOnSePsAtMar.org (Larry W) wrote:
>I should have added, consider the HF 18 gauge narrow crown stapler, often
>on sale for $20 or less. It's really a no-brainer at that price.
above 55psi pressures.
EXT
Jun 4, 2012, 8:53:31 PM6/4/12
to
"Larry Jaques" <lja...@invalid.diversifycomm.com> wrote in message
news:1gjqs79jvijej11kn...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 04 Jun 2012 13:54:35 -0500, John Shear <jsh...@NOSPAMsgi.com>
> wrote:
>
>>I'm considering getting a finish stapler like the Bostitch sb-150sx to
>>fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
>>example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
>>like them a lot.
>>Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
>>but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
>
> Good manufacturers (aka: NICE people) use screws. Cheaparse, penny
> pinching corporate types use staplers. ;)
Good manufacturers may use screws, but most don't. Cheaparse, penny pinching
> wrote:
>
>>I'm considering getting a finish stapler like the Bostitch sb-150sx to
>>fasten 1/4" ply cabinet backs to carcasses. I use the Bostitch as an
>>example because I've been using their 16 and 18 gauge nailers and really
>>like them a lot.
>>Is stapling a good way to attach cabinet backs? I currently use screws
>>but stapling would be faster (and more fun).
>
> Good manufacturers (aka: NICE people) use screws. Cheaparse, penny
> pinching corporate types use staplers. ;)
corporate types use staples for finish assembly on the front, and cardboard
for the back held in place by a shot of hot melt glue -- yes, I have
disassembled some by a "reputable" brand that was built that way.
John Shear
Jun 5, 2012, 12:18:08 PM6/5/12
to
When I mail-order, I tend to stick with the established good brands. HF
cheap stuff always concerns me because I can't see and touch it before
ordering. But it's had a couple of good comments here.
I have two Bostitch nailers and feel real good about those. I checked
out the Bostitch stapler at the local home center and a google search
turned up lots of good comments, so I'm leaning that way. For this kind
of thing I'll probably watch Ebay and get a deal there. That's worked
for me so far.
Lots of great feedback here...
John Shear
cheap stuff always concerns me because I can't see and touch it before
ordering. But it's had a couple of good comments here.
I have two Bostitch nailers and feel real good about those. I checked
out the Bostitch stapler at the local home center and a google search
turned up lots of good comments, so I'm leaning that way. For this kind
of thing I'll probably watch Ebay and get a deal there. That's worked
for me so far.
Lots of great feedback here...
John Shear
HeyBub
Jun 6, 2012, 9:08:24 AM6/6/12
to
http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2-in-1-nailerstapler-68019.html
Generally, you would use a stapler on material that cannot be reliably held
by a (minimum) nail head. This would include, of course, cardboard, foil,
and other thin, tearable stuff.
As for securing cabinet backs, a bead of glue in addition to the
staple/screw/nail might be prudent.
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