Garage ceiling ideas? (drywall, plywood, etc?)
Ryan
for parking two cars in the winter. I'd like to have some kind of
ceiling in it, to reflect light down, and to keep heat in during the
winter.
Finished, painted drywall would look the best, but be difficult to put
up. I'd have to rent a jack, and I constantly be worried about the
jack damaging my newly painted floor. But I'm not worried about it
getting dented (as I've read here before) because my ceilings are
about 10.5 feet high.
But what are the other alternatives? Plywood? (OSB more likely). I
will be putting insulation in the 'attic', too. Not sure if it will
be bats or blown-in yet.
Also am thinking about what I should put on the walls... that will
probably be drywall, I think.
Thanks for any suggestions.
-Ryan
Greg O
"Ryan" <zirc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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I don't think anything else will be much easier than sheetrock. Sure OSB or
plywood my be lighter, but not enough to make a difference. Plus sheetrock
is 1/2 the price and takes paint better than anything else.
Sheet rock the ceiling then walls. Put up a vapor barrier first.
Greg
A.I.
Piece of cake, the lift makes it very easy to put overhead sheets up, and
does not damage the floor. Painted white, works very well.
hda
"Ryan" <zirc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Fred McClellan
>I recently had a new 24x34 garage built. I will use it as a shop and
>for parking two cars in the winter. I'd like to have some kind of
>ceiling in it, to reflect light down, and to keep heat in during the
>winter.
>
>Finished, painted drywall would look the best, but be difficult to put
>up. I'd have to rent a jack, and I constantly be worried about the
>jack damaging my newly painted floor. But I'm not worried about it
>getting dented (as I've read here before) because my ceilings are
>about 10.5 feet high.
>
<SNIP>
Dunno what it's called, but we just sheeted the ceiling in the garage
using a quickie-built platform-thing.
A 4'x4' plywood scrap, a length of PVC tube, a length of closet rod,
and some scrap borgstuff.
Drilled a socket in a lump of borgstuff with a Forstner, to fit the
PVC. Screwed the borgstuff to the center of the scrap ply so it
formed a stringer down the middle of the ply.
Slid the closet rod into the PVC and cut it the same length.
Held the platform up against the rafters and let the rod drop to the
floor, then cross-drilled a small hole for a pin (ok, an old cylinder
head bolt), and a couple of more holes an inch farther down the rod
'just in case'.
Not too much of a fuss to use, and once loaded and lifted, it allowed
one of us to 'steer' the sheet goods and the other one to run the
nailer.
Did the whole ceiling in a day, including all the dodge-work around
stuff like the garage door opener supports, main I-beam, etc.
Cost was zilch 'cuz the scrap stuff was going out the door anyway.
Cheers,
Fred McClellan
the dash plumber at mindspring dot com
Mike S.
option and it will reflect a lot of light.
--
Mike S.
n0...@sbcglobal.net
"Ryan" <zirc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Greg O
"Mike S." <n0y$$@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
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> I'd use OSB, prime and paint it with a high gloss paint. A pretty cheap
> option and it will reflect a lot of light.
>
> --
Cheap?? OSB is 2-3 times the price of sheet rock!
Greg
Jeff Wisnia
"crutches" out of a couple of pieces of strapping and let my helpers
(SWMBO and our 15 year old son) use them to push up on the sheetrock in
the right places while I stood on a ladder and spun in the screws. Piece
of cake for a DIY one off job, but I wouldn't suggest using that system to
make a living with.
You might want to consider "painting" the finished job with "textured
ceiling finish" which you can apply with a paint roller. It covers taping
sins beautifully. The stuff I used was a dry powder, to be mixed with
water. You can slap it on with a stiff paintbrush in places you can't get
to with a roller.
Jeff
Jeff Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"If you can smile when things are going wrong, you've thought of someone
to blame it on."
Ryan wrote:
-
Guglielmo Portas
affordable whitewashed beadboard look panel? Pretty cheap at a
megastore.
Mark & Juanita
> news:e7d49913.03092...@posting.google.com...
> > I recently had a new 24x34 garage built. I will use it as a shop and
> > for parking two cars in the winter. I'd like to have some kind of
> > ceiling in it, to reflect light down, and to keep heat in during the
> > winter.
> >
> > Finished, painted drywall would look the best, but be difficult to put
> > up. I'd have to rent a jack, and I constantly be worried about the
> > jack damaging my newly painted floor. But I'm not worried about it
> > getting dented (as I've read here before) because my ceilings are
> > about 10.5 feet high.
> >
> > But what are the other alternatives? Plywood? (OSB more likely). I
> > will be putting insulation in the 'attic', too. Not sure if it will
> > be bats or blown-in yet.
> >
> > Also am thinking about what I should put on the walls... that will
> > probably be drywall, I think.
> >
> > Thanks for any suggestions.
> >
> > -Ryan
>
I did something a little different in my shop. I got the 1/4" vinyl-
coated hardboard and used it as both wall covering and ceiling covering.
My primary motivation for going this route vs. drywall is the fact that
removal is easy if one ever wishes to access behind any wall, any time.
I went with the white vinyl vs. OSB for several reasons: 1. OSB out-
gasses horribly for a long time after insulation. 2. OSB sucks up primer
and paint by the bucket, 3. The white vinyl is already white, so,
although it does cost more (mine cost $14 per sheet), I did not have to
either prime or paint it, so in addition to saving on paint, I saved
tons of time.
I just finished installing all of the walls and 2/3 of the ceiling, so
I don't have a long history with the stuff to state how it will hold up,
but this is a shop, I see no significant downsides to this choice, and
the white walls made a bazillion percent difference in the looks and
lighting level. Now comes the rest of the reconfiguration project, got
the wood rack re-installed yesterday and the large dimension lumber
replaced in the rack. I am going to build compartmented storage on the
top shelf for scrap wood storage and also for some other storage (such
as extra flourescent lightbulbs).
darrell darcy
sheets of 1 inch white styrofoam.Looks great and light as a feather
Myxylplyk
shop, you should use 5/8 or 3/4 drywall.
5/8 is usual code for a fire barrier between garage and house. It may help contain any
fires until help got there.
The other materials recommended are all fairly flamable.
just my $.02,
Myx
"Ryan" <zirc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Mike Hide
available at HD or Lowes light as a feather and gives some small amout of
insulation . Cover the seams with duct tape . can easily be handled by one
person.....mjh
--
mike hide
"
ToolMiser
cover with a non combustable material. Maybe this would pass for an out
building?
Just my usual 2 cents.
Michael Daly
> gives some small amout of insulation .
Speaking of insulation - I wonder why no one has suggested sound insulating
ceiling covering. I'd have thought that, given the noise that can be generated
in a shop, having something absorbe the noise would be useful.
'Course the dust would collect in most sound tile I've seen...
Mike
Ryan
24" centers, so I would need to use 5/8" drywall to prevent sag?
What do you think of priming and painting the drywall before I put it
up? I'd have to go over it again and paint the seams, and over the
screw holes, but I think it would be a lot easier than trying to prime
and paint 816 sq feet of ceiling that's 10.5 feet above my head.
I don't suppose paneling will work? That thin stuff that finds itself
on a lot of basement walls. It would probably sag?
Thanks,
-Ryan
Myxylplyk
If you plan on using kraft backed fiberglass batts, you should consider installing the
insulation *before* you hang the drywall.
As for painting first, it's probably not a good idea. You'll need a good bond for the mud
and you will not know how far you'll need to feather the joints until it's installed.
Also, the paint will probably get marred during install but the lift or some other thing.
Good luck,
Myx
"Ryan" <zirc...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
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WoodChuck34
I finished my basement myself and used drywall on the ceiling. All I
used were 8 Eye Bolts and 2 pieces of 2 x 4.
Cut 2 lenghts of 2 x 4's just longer the 4' so you can screw an eye
bolt in either and fit the drywall in between, like so:
0 0
| |
---------------------------
---------------------------
Screw the other 4 eye bolts into the rafters where you want to place
the drywall. I then used 4 nylon strap (the kind with the rachet
tightener) to hoist the drywall into place. Use another 2 x 4 to
press it hard against the ceiling.
When I say I did the ceiling myself, I mean I didn't have anyone else
in the room.
Chuck
John W. Wells
>Thanks for the replies. I will probably just go with drywall. I have
>24" centers, so I would need to use 5/8" drywall to prevent sag?
Perhaps not. When I had my drywall hung earlier this year, due to my
own ignorance, I had set all my ceiling electrical boxes at 1/2 inch.
The contractor said, OK, he'd just use 1/2 inch "ceiling-type"
drywall.
The material he installed IS marked "Ceiling"--must be somewhat
stiffer. No sag yet, but time will tell.
Like you, my ceiling trusses are on 24" centers (upstairs, but 16"
joists downstairs--this is a detached workshop))
>What do you think of priming and painting the drywall before I put it
>up? I'd have to go over it again and paint the seams, and over the
>screw holes, but I think it would be a lot easier than trying to prime
>and paint 816 sq feet of ceiling that's 10.5 feet above my head.
Yikes! I'm currently taping and finishing the drywall myself--a first
time experience for me, so my mudding is kinda messy. No way would I
have painted beforehand!
I'll just unscrew the mesh sander from its telescoping handle and
screw on the paint roller. Rolling paint overhead has GOT to be
easier than sanding overhead!
Oops--just looked back and noticed you said 10.5' above your HEAD.
Guess that's pretty high up.
>I don't suppose paneling will work? That thin stuff that finds itself
>on a lot of basement walls. It would probably sag?
I would think it would.
--John W. Wells
Ryan
sagging? How about OSB?
I'm leaning more away from drywall, untaped/mudded it would look very
ugly, I think?... but mudding/taping/sanding then painting that much
area sounds like more work than I want to do. I would like to get
cheap, thin plywood, paint it, then put it up with white screws. I
could live with the seams.
I will also look at other wall materials, I saw some mentioned in this
thread but I have no idea what those things are. The only building
store here is a Menards, and they don't have a lot of selection. The
new Lowes is supposed to open in November.
Someone mentioned that they just but up foam insulation board. Will
consider that too...
Thanks for all the responses.
-Ryan
C G
Something to think about is that sheets of drywall are cheap. Plywood
is not usually so inexensive. Perhaps you should contact a drywall crew
and compare their per foot price to that of installing plywood yourself.
Greg O
Paint it afterwards. Get an extended handle for a paint roller, put the
paint tray on the floor and go to it. It is not that bad of a job.
Greg
Mike Hide
--
mike hide
"C G" <"piper_chuck"@nospam,yahoo.com> wrote in message
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Thomas Halay
stained it. It looks absolutely fantastic.
Tom
"Mike Hide" <mike...@comcast.net> wrote in message
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Michael Baglio
agging? How about OSB?
>
>I'm leaning more away from drywall, untaped/mudded it would look very
>ugly, I think?... but mudding/taping/sanding then painting that much
>area sounds like more work than I want to do.
I'm all for having a job look good but if this was _my_ workshop, I'd
remind myself that it is my _workshop._ The point of the drywall is
light reflection, sound dampening and a cheap means to hold up
insulation. I'd prepaint the drywall a nice bright white, insulate
between the rafters and screw the drywall up to the ceiling. Done.
No tape, no mud, no sanding. Time to work wood.
By the time you're done hanging lights, jigs, bar clamps, and that
gloat cache of unobtainium wood you were lucky enough to find and need
to dry, you'll never see the seems anyway. ;>
My 2 cents, and worth every penny,
Michael Baglio
Greg O
"Mike Hide" <mike...@comcast.net> wrote in message
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>
> --
>
Because some people want a more finished look.
Greg
Ryan
-Ryan
Ryan
> coated hardboard and used it as both wall covering and ceiling covering.
> My primary motivation for going this route vs. drywall is the fact that
> removal is easy if one ever wishes to access behind any wall, any time.
> I went with the white vinyl vs. OSB for several reasons: 1. OSB out-
> gasses horribly for a long time after insulation. 2. OSB sucks up primer
> and paint by the bucket, 3. The white vinyl is already white, so,
> although it does cost more (mine cost $14 per sheet), I did not have to
> either prime or paint it, so in addition to saving on paint, I saved
> tons of time.
>
> I just finished installing all of the walls and 2/3 of the ceiling, so
> I don't have a long history with the stuff to state how it will hold up,
> but this is a shop, I see no significant downsides to this choice, and
> the white walls made a bazillion percent difference in the looks and
> lighting level. Now comes the rest of the reconfiguration project, got
> the wood rack re-installed yesterday and the large dimension lumber
> replaced in the rack. I am going to build compartmented storage on the
> top shelf for scrap wood storage and also for some other storage (such
> as extra flourescent lightbulbs).
I did not see any vinyl coated hardboard at Menards. All they had was
regular hardboard. The 1/4 stuff was around $5 per 4x8 sheet.
Does your ceiling show any sagging at all? Does the vinyl give it any
more strength? If not, and your 1/4 stuff works ok, I might just get
the regular 1/4 hardboard, paint it and put it up.
-Ryan
Greg O
> more strength? If not, and your 1/4 stuff works ok, I might just get
> the regular 1/4 hardboard, paint it and put it up.
>
It WILL sag!
Greg
Lawrence A. Ramsey
walls/ceilings of car washes and restrooms and kitchens? It can be
washed, wiped off and is generally regarded as fire proof
(resistant).It also ha s a pebble finish, is very bright so will help
light up garage, etc.. Good stuff.
Specter
to pay?
Rob
----------------------------
"Lawrence A. Ramsey" wrote ...
Lawrence A. Ramsey
interior decorator might also be another source.It is very reasonable
sine you don't have to mud it, sand and prime and paint. Also good for
water that gets splashed up on it.Since it is fiberglass, be SURE to
wear a respirator and eye protection.
W. W.
Is this shop attached to your house ? you said you have cars in it ,
Lawnmowers , other flammables?
Think about it . You have a lot of money invested ,why skimp ?
Safety IS a big factor, ALL the other alternatives to a sheetrock
ceiling are very dangerous ,the smoke ,and hazardous fumes from
them will kill you.
This is the BEST advice that was given to you about the project :
If you plan on spending any time or storing any of the usual finishing
fluids in your shop, you should use 5/8 or 3/4 drywall.
5/8 is usual code for a fire barrier between garage and house. It may
help contain any fires until help got there.
The other materials recommended are all fairly flammable.
Mark & Juanita
@yahoo.com says...
> > I did something a little different in my shop. I got the 1/4" vinyl-
> > coated hardboard and used it as both wall covering and ceiling covering.
> >
> > I just finished installing all of the walls and 2/3 of the ceiling, so
> > I don't have a long history with the stuff to state how it will hold up,
> > but this is a shop, I see no significant downsides to this choice, and
> > the white walls made a bazillion percent difference in the looks and
>
> I did not see any vinyl coated hardboard at Menards. All they had was
> regular hardboard. The 1/4 stuff was around $5 per 4x8 sheet.
>
Initially got mine from Home Depot, but got the majority of it from
McEwan Lumber in Tucson. I think Lowes also has this.
> Does your ceiling show any sagging at all? Does the vinyl give it any
> more strength? If not, and your 1/4 stuff works ok, I might just get
> the regular 1/4 hardboard, paint it and put it up.
>
My ceiling is a trussed ceiling and did not show any signs of sagging
either before or after installation. I'm not sure how old the shop
building is, I'm guessing at better than 10 years old (it was here when
I moved in 4 years ago).
> -Ryan
>
Mark & Juanita
says...
If you are talking about the 1/4 hardboard, I'm not sure how, being
fastened down on 24" centers, there is going to be much sag possible
unless it ever gets wet. There is moderate bowing that may occur, but
this is pretty minimal as well.
betterthanbob
Hi. were your trusses 16" or 24"? Is it sagging at all?
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Wylie Coyote
so, 13 yrs later, how has the ceiling held up? Did you nail it or use
adhesive?
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Ivan Vegvary
Can drive nails, screws anywhere to hang tools, conduit etc.
Ed Pawlowski
> Put OSB on all my walls. Used joint compound and a 12" blade to prepare the OSB for paint. (After installation). Goes very fast. About 1-2 minutes per sheet. Save a lot of money on paint.
> Can drive nails, screws anywhere to hang tools, conduit etc.
>
Don Clark
How has the vinyl bead board ceiling hold up I’m about to do the same thing
Ward
Did you also insulate your attic?