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Re: What tool to use to cut stair nose?
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someone
Nov 18, 2004, 11:11:38 AM11/18/04
to
Charles Spitzer wrote:
> "Bob K 207" <bob...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20041117235110...@mb-m02.aol.com...
>
>>>>I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
>>>>I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
>>>>to put the hardwood nose on it.
>>>>
>>
>>
>>Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
>>runs
>>into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget
>>the
>>recip saw.
>>
>>You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
>>flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
>>riser.
>>
>>You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
>>tread.
>>
>>Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?
>>
>>since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
>>treads &
>>rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?
>>
>>Bob
>
>
> rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
> very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
> immense amount of dust.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
> "Bob K 207" <bob...@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:20041117235110...@mb-m02.aol.com...
>
>>>>I am thinking to put some 5/16" hardwood floor on my stairs.
>>>>I have to cut off the nose from the 1" ply treads in order
>>>>to put the hardwood nose on it.
>>>>
>>
>>
>>Every power tool I can think of will stop cutting when the body of the
>>runs
>>into the side of the stairs. A good circular saw is a good choice; forget
>>the
>>recip saw.
>>
>>You could rough cut it with the cheap circular saw & then finish up with a
>>flush cutting router bit that has bearing to guide against the lower
>>riser.
>>
>>You still have to contend with the "un-cut" section at each end of the
>>tread.
>>
>>Sharp chisel & patience could do the end work. How many treads? 12?
>>
>>since you're covering the treads with flooring, could you pull out the
>>treads &
>>rip the nose off on a table saw & re-install?
>>
>>Bob
>
>
> rough cut it, then shape using a belt sander. they make sanders that can get
> very close to edges (using a very small front roller). be prepared for an
> immense amount of dust.
>
> regards,
> charlie
> cave creek, az
>
I am dealing with a ply stair, so I can't chisel. Sanding out that last
part is not easy, I guess.
What I was thinking is use a drill bit (drill saw) and cut through the
parts near the stringers. Then sand off the rough part.
I have 12 treads. This is a stair to the basement.If this is successful,
I'll try to rip out the carpet on the stair leading to the upper floor,
and put the hardwood in.
What kind of router do you think I should get, considering this is one
or two time job? I am still trying to avoid using a circular saw for
this job.
Do you think 5/16" hardwoord at:
http://www.ifloor.com/productdisplay.html?item_id=101499&N=3+138
is a good choice for stair?
Thanks.
y.
Message has been deleted
Dave jackson
Nov 18, 2004, 5:02:58 PM11/18/04
to
Bosch makes a real nice flush trimming saw....
I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before. Although
i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
clean even
cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
eeper! --dave
"someone" <som...@work.net> wrote in message
news:_Q3nd.1984$Ny6....@mencken.net.nih.gov...
mp
Nov 18, 2004, 5:15:56 PM11/18/04
to
> I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before. Although
> i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
> factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
> clean even
> cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
> make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
> eper! --dave> i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut hundreds of
> factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom sills. Nice
> clean even
> cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
> make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
They look pretty good. What kind of life do you get out of the blades?
Dave jackson
Nov 18, 2004, 5:47:33 PM11/18/04
to
The blades are about $10 and do last a while- I can cut about 40+
windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
least in my area) --dave
"mp" <m...@123.com> wrote in message
news:10pq7oq...@corp.supernews.com...
>> I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before.
>> Although i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut
>> hundreds of factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom
>> sills. Nice clean even
>> cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
>> make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
least in my area) --dave
"mp" <m...@123.com> wrote in message
news:10pq7oq...@corp.supernews.com...
>> I love the thing, it can boldly go where no saw has gone before.
>> Although i've never tried it on stair nosing, it has been used to cut
>> hundreds of factory interior window sills out to make way for our custom
>> sills. Nice clean even
>> cuts flush to the jamb. I use it for undercutting casing / doorjambs to
>> make way for tile or hardwood floors to. Check it out, it's a
mp
Nov 18, 2004, 7:59:02 PM11/18/04
to
> The blades are about $10 and do last a while- I can cut about 40+
> windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
> blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
> can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
> blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
> least in my area) --dave
> windowsills out before replacing it. Although, being a fine thin kerfed
> blade they are somewhat like a Japanese pull saw in the fact that one nail
> can really do some damage to the teeth in short order. Get a few extra
> blades when you find them. They are not the easiest things to find (at
> least in my area) --dave
Thanks. The reason I was asking is that one of the local stores sells the
blades for $18 and at that price I'd hope they last a while. I always shop
local if I can but sometimes the stores get a bit greedy.
Keith
Aug 30, 2016, 4:44:04 PM8/30/16
to
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to
the riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the
handle of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn
around and do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if
your not completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you
sawzall, circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see
exactly how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom
step so if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-tool-to-use-to-cut-stair-nose-568353-.htm
The best way I've found, is borrow or buy a sawzall with a course wood cutting
blade, look at the face of the overhang and make a cut toward the riser and
angle your cut left or right which ever way your starting untill you come to
the riser and follow it to the end or as close as you can get, then lower the
handle of your saw and use the tip of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn
around and do the same of the other half of the nose. Don't worry yourself if
your not completely flush with the riser, you can go back either with you
sawzall, circular saw or jigsaw and flush it up, by then you'll be able to see
exactly how much to take off to make things flush. I would start at the bottom
step so if there is a small mistake it won't be noticeable.
--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-tool-to-use-to-cut-stair-nose-568353-.htm
Keith
Aug 30, 2016, 4:44:05 PM8/30/16
to
replying to mp, Keith wrote:
The cheapest and best way I've found is : either borrow or buy a sawsall with
a course blade. Cut in the middle of the riser and angle your saw to the right
or left which ever you want to start, and just follow your stair tread to the
end, now, when you get to the end bring the handle DOWN slowly and use the tip
or end of the blade to finish the cut. Then turn around and do the same on the
other end of the nose. Don't make something simple hard. IF you move away from
your riser a little you can trim it closer with the sawzall OR use you
circular saw to trim it flush.
Electric Comet
Aug 31, 2016, 12:19:21 AM8/31/16
to
On Tue, 30 Aug 2016
Keef <23244444234234faeaeaa96d78f8511@@@@example.com> wrote:
> The cheapest and best way I've found is : either borrow or buy a
> sawsall with a course blade. Cut in the middle of the riser and angle
borrowing usually leads to abuse of the tool and possibly any relationship
Keef <23244444234234faeaeaa96d78f8511@@@@example.com> wrote:
> The cheapest and best way I've found is : either borrow or buy a
> sawsall with a course blade. Cut in the middle of the riser and angle
between the lender and the lendee will become strained
fwiw sawzalls are usually reserved for doing demolition type work but they
do sometimes work in a pinch
when that tip hits something it should be something you do not care about
but i do like the tool and it works great for demoing wood frame construction
bnw...@gmail.com
Aug 31, 2016, 5:03:55 AM8/31/16
to
Abusing a tool that is primarily used for demolition? Hmmm...
I tend to take better care of someone else's tools, for fear of having to buy a brand new tool only to give it away (should it break under my stewardship). But that's just me, I guess...
Unknown
Aug 31, 2016, 5:57:30 AM8/31/16
to
bnw...@gmail.com wrote in
news:b57ed58e-e130-4fbb...@googlegroups.com:
>
> Interesting viewpoint...
> Abusing a tool that is primarily used for demolition? Hmmm...
> I tend to take better care of someone else's tools, for fear of having
> to buy a brand new tool only to give it away (should it break under my
> stewardship). But that's just me, I guess...
>
It's not just you, if I borrow a tool I'm responsible with and for it. I
also try to get it back to the owner as soon as possible, I don't want them
in my possession any longer than necessary. When possible, I return it to
the owner's hands directly along with a Thank You.
Some lenders have a "you got it from my hands, it goes back in my hands"
policy. Even when they don't state it, that's what I try to do. The owner
can then put the tool where he wants it and also hopefully remembers not
only putting it away but talking to me when I return it.
Puckdropper
news:b57ed58e-e130-4fbb...@googlegroups.com:
>
> Interesting viewpoint...
> Abusing a tool that is primarily used for demolition? Hmmm...
> I tend to take better care of someone else's tools, for fear of having
> to buy a brand new tool only to give it away (should it break under my
> stewardship). But that's just me, I guess...
>
also try to get it back to the owner as soon as possible, I don't want them
in my possession any longer than necessary. When possible, I return it to
the owner's hands directly along with a Thank You.
Some lenders have a "you got it from my hands, it goes back in my hands"
policy. Even when they don't state it, that's what I try to do. The owner
can then put the tool where he wants it and also hopefully remembers not
only putting it away but talking to me when I return it.
Puckdropper
Bob Villa
Aug 31, 2016, 12:45:47 PM8/31/16
to
krw
Aug 31, 2016, 10:23:09 PM8/31/16
to
On 31 Aug 2016 09:57:27 GMT, Puckdropper
I'll also buy the blades I need for the job, and a few more. They go
back with the tool.
back with the tool.
gene morgan
Apr 15, 2018, 11:14:06 AM4/15/18
to
replying to Dave jackson, gene morgan wrote:
I would consider just applying the thin hardwood on the risers after
refinishing the treads if you are determined to use the hardwood( in my
opinion stairs look better with stained treads and painted risers ) just
saying ... And stairs always look better with a bull nose on the front even
when they are carpeted ... Old retired finish carpenter!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-tool-to-use-to-cut-stair-nose-568353-.htm
I would consider just applying the thin hardwood on the risers after
refinishing the treads if you are determined to use the hardwood( in my
opinion stairs look better with stained treads and painted risers ) just
saying ... And stairs always look better with a bull nose on the front even
when they are carpeted ... Old retired finish carpenter!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/what-tool-to-use-to-cut-stair-nose-568353-.htm
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