Craftsman Radial Arm Saw Motor Removal
mikenj
eighties/early nineties vintage. The blade jammed into a piece of wood
and now the motor hums, but does not spin when I turn it on. I have
replaced the capacitor, but no luck. I wanted to take the motor off
and have an electric motor shop take a look at it, but I can't figure
out how to disconnect the power cord from the arm. Do I need to take
the arm apart to get to the wire connections or do I try to take the
motor apart? I can't figure out how to take the arm apart to get to
the wires.
Paul T.
Have you tried going to the Sears website and see if they have a manual
for this saw? If they do, it may show you how to take the motor off.
I'm never owned one of these, so don't know how you would do it.
Paul T.
-MIKE-
I think there is a cable junction under the arm cover.
These diagrams should be a help in figuring out how to take it apart.
<http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=113.197150>
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
allen476
Does the motor shaft spin freely by hand? Will it start with a little
push?
More than likely you will need to take the wires out of the motor.
Allen
mikenj
I did find the diagrams on the Sears website. No luck in showing how
to take the arm apart to get to the wires. I also did try to spin the
blade while starting with no luck. Allen says that I may have to take
the wires out from the motor side, but it's not obvious how to take it
apart. I think the arm would be a safer bet, but haven't found the
magic entry point to take it apart.
-MIKE-
Are my posts not showing up?
Lee Michaels
"-MIKE-" wrote
> On 2/3/10 5:08 PM, mikenj wrote:
>> On Feb 3, 2:49 pm, mikenj<michaelmiraglio...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>> I have a Sears Model Number 113.197150 radial arm saw that is late
>>> eighties/early nineties vintage. The blade jammed into a piece of wood
>>> and now the motor hums, but does not spin when I turn it on. I have
>>> replaced the capacitor, but no luck. I wanted to take the motor off
>>> and have an electric motor shop take a look at it, but I can't figure
>>> out how to disconnect the power cord from the arm. Do I need to take
>>> the arm apart to get to the wire connections or do I try to take the
>>> motor apart? I can't figure out how to take the arm apart to get to
>>> the wires.
>>
>> I did find the diagrams on the Sears website. No luck in showing how
>> to take the arm apart to get to the wires. I also did try to spin the
>> blade while starting with no luck. Allen says that I may have to take
>> the wires out from the motor side, but it's not obvious how to take it
>> apart. I think the arm would be a safer bet, but haven't found the
>> magic entry point to take it apart.
>
> Are my posts not showing up?
>
> <http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=113.197150>
>
> --
them out. Very nice if you want to tear into something and fix it.
But of course, there are some of us, who find this sort of thing to be
outside their comfort zone. Personally, myself, I can do it. But I don't
like to. And I make mistakes at this sort of thing. And have had parts left
over after final assembly.
I can design things. I can build things. Not so good at fixing things.
allen476
You will then have to disassemble the arm. It looks as though that you
could take the cover off the arm. Look at the diagrams some more. From
what I can tell, it looks like 6-9 screws to get the cover off. It
looks like you will have to take the switch on the front of the arm
apart as well.
Allen
mikenj
>
> - Show quoted text -
OK, I see the zoomed diagram. I'll take a closer look and figure out
how to open the arm up and get to the wiring. I'll let you all know
how I make out.
-MIKE-
>> <http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=113.197150>
>>
>> --
> Those are nice diagrams. You can zoom in on the exploded views and print
> them out. Very nice if you want to tear into something and fix it.
>
> But of course, there are some of us, who find this sort of thing to be
> outside their comfort zone. Personally, myself, I can do it. But I don't
> like to. And I make mistakes at this sort of thing. And have had parts left
> over after final assembly.
>
> I can design things. I can build things. Not so good at fixing things.
>
I guess I forget how it is for *normal* people.
I was always opening up things as a kid... got my share of jolts from a
charged capacitor or two. :-)
And for 11 years, part of my job was tearing into electronics.
Anon
"mikenj" <michaelmi...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:fa4cc38c-8cec-49e0...@h33g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
If the motor has accessible carbon commutator brushes, I would remove them,
check for damaged brush ends, check motor rotation without them and
reinstall or replace them, before disassembling the entire arm.
whit3rd
> "mikenj" <michaelmiraglio...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
> news:fa4cc38c-8cec-49e0...@h33g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
>
> >I have a Sears Model Number 113.197150 radial arm saw that is late
> > eighties/early nineties vintage. The blade jammed into a piece of wood
> > and now the motor hums, but does not spin when I turn it on. I have
> > replaced the capacitor, but no luck.
> If the motor has accessible carbon commutator brushes,
The kind of motor that has brushes doesn't need or have a capacitor;
the capacitor usually works with a 'start switch' which can be kept
open by a speck of sawdust. Cleaning that switch is the goal of
disassembly, and commonly one must remove one of the ends
(bell housing) of the motor to get to it. It'll the the end housing
that
has the electrical wiring connections.
mikenj
You are correct that this motor has a capacitor and from my limited
experience, was the only easy component that I can access within the
motor. Also in this compartment are the 110/220v terminals. I did not
see any switch inside the motor, unless you mean the start switch
located in the arm. I have not opened that up yet, but have studied
the diagram and will give it a try this weekend. As far as the motor,
there is not much exposed as far as winding and brushes - it is a very
sefl-contained unit except for the access to the capacitor. There are
some hefty star screws with ominous warnings of removal which can
cause misalignment. In any case, I do not have the drivers to unscrew
them. I can do the basic stuff like disassemble and clean, but if the
motor needs work, I will take it to a motor shop; otherwise it's $160
for a new motor - not very attractive.
dpb
...
> You are correct that this motor has a capacitor and from my limited
> experience, was the only easy component that I can access within the
> motor. Also in this compartment are the 110/220v terminals. I did not
> see any switch inside the motor, unless you mean the start switch
> located in the arm. ...
No, the centriugal switch that switches the start cap out of the circuit
at speed.
If it ain't even hummin', that's not it. But, if it is a contacts
problem, try taking the air hose and nozzle and blowing the housing out
good.
I looked at the exploded drawing somebody showed link to a little --
they're not great for the specific purpose but it appears the leads to
the switch are the simplest to get to likely as looks like motor-end
connections are in the housing as opposed to a junction box.
There's bound to be a way in, simply start looking at the covers
carefully, it's possible there's a snap-on cover over arm assembly.
The old small DeWalt I have has a set of screws on the front end of the
switch cover that is a starting point, after that there's a cover on the
top of the arm that is dust protection and cosmetics for the innards of
the arm from the top. I forget otomh whether it just snaps on or is
held by the side pieces that have the scale imprinted on them.
Overall, it can't be too complicated, just takes some detective work to
see what went together last, hence comes apart first.
--
Max
> > "mikenj" <michaelmiraglio...@gmail.com> wrote
>I have a Sears Model Number 113.197150 radial arm saw that is late
>eighties/early nineties vintage. The blade jammed into a piece of wood
>and now the motor hums, but does not spin when I turn it on. I have
>replaced the capacitor, but no luck. I wanted to take the motor off
>and have an electric motor shop take a look at it, but I can't figure
>out how to disconnect the power cord from the arm. Do I need to take
>the arm apart to get to the wire connections or do I try to take the
>motor apart? I can't figure out how to take the arm apart to get to
>the wires.
I have a .199350 version of the saw.
Several years ago I replaced the electric cord with a longer one.
As I recall, I took off the end plates of the arm and the cover then slips
off.
You can reach the terminals under the cover. (if that's what you're looking
for)
Max
-MIKE-
Nope, it's different.
Yours is like mine, but not the same as his.
Hoosierpopi
On mine, the front plate on the arm is removed and the motor assembly
rolled forward and off the arm. The Electrical cable was held by a
small clamp screwed to the rear of the arm. When I removed the screw
that held the clamp/cable in place, the entire motor assembly was
ready to take to the "motor shop."
If you look closely on that motor, you may spy a small red button
somewhere on the motor itself. This is a RESET BUTTON. If the blade
turns freely (with the power off, pleas!) try pressing this little red
button. Then plug it back in and turn on the power switch'
If this works, send my check to The Salvation Army in a rasonable
amount.
mikenj
Sorry, no check for you. I hit the reset more times than I can count.
I followed the exact procedures in the troubleshooting guide with no
luck. I did figure out how to get the front faceplate off and that is
where the power cord terminates to the switch. Now I have a frozen
screw that is not allowing me to get to the switch assembly. I sprayed
it with some WD-40 and am letting it soak overnight. I'm guessing that
there is something wrong with that reset switch.
mikenj
>
> - Show quoted text -
I was successful in taking the front arm switch assembly apart and
that is where the motor power cord terminates so it was three easy
connections to take apart and I have freed the motor power cord from
the switch. The trick is to figure out how to disassemble the grommet
from the side of the arm where the motor power cord enters without
destroying it.
-MIKE-
> The trick is to figure out how to disassemble the grommet
> from the side of the arm where the motor power cord enters without
> destroying it.
Is it this kind?
<http://www.blogcdn.com/www.engadget.com/media/2006/02/stress-relief.JPG>
<http://store.marshamps.com/images/Strain%20relief.jpg>
If so, you just have to pinch and pull. The cord can take it.
Slip lock pliers with good knurling should do the trick.
mikenj
> ---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
Mike, yep, that looks right. I'll give it a try.
mikenj
>
> - Show quoted text -
Mike,
worked great! motor is ready to go to the shop - hopefully this won't
cost too much :)
hwh...@gmail.com
Martin Eastburn
Might be the switch that is the starter switch. If it has one.
Most don't and some do.
Martin
Just Another Joe
> Might be the switch that is the starter switch. If it has one.
> Most don't and some do.
Craftsman 9" RAS (yes, 9").
The start winding switch soon failed, sticking in the "run" position.
The quick, on the job, solution was to take a short dowel, tie it the
the end of about a 3' piece of twine to act as a handle. I wound the
other end of the twine around the accessory shaft, turned the ON/OFF
switch on, and pulled the twine really fast.
Worked every time, and let me get the job finished.
Joe
Keith Nuttle
I have a table saw that will marginally, to not run on a 15 amp circuit
but will always run on a 20 amp circuit.
Right now I have on 20 amp circuit in the garage in the ceiling for the
door opener. I hope to be able to correct that this summer.
274...@gmail.com
> I have a Sears Model Number 113.197150 radial arm saw that is late
> eighties/early nineties vintage. The blade jammed into a piece of wood
> and now the motor hums, but does not spin when I turn it on. I have
> replaced the capacitor, but no luck. I wanted to take the motor off
> and have an electric motor shop take a look at it, but I can't figure
> out how to disconnect the power cord from the arm. Do I need to take
> the arm apart to get to the wire connections or do I try to take the
> motor apart? I can't figure out how to take the arm apart to get to
> the wires.
Electric Comet
27342...@gmail.com wrote:
> Mine was humming and not turning . I changed the plug, switched it to
> 220v and it works fine.
nowa...@gmail.com
OFWW
Like 3A @120 volt
1.5A 2 230 volts
Etc. Most also have a SF rating service factor of 1 or 1.5 and so on,
If your line voltage is less than the rating your amp draw will
increase, same if the belt is too tight and sometimes it will not
start with too tight a belt. One belt driven devices. Both cause
overheating and eventual burnout of the motor. If the motor pulley is
too large it too will cause an increase in motor amp draw.
There are other factors but these are the most common.