Which Plastic for Router Table.
Guthrie378
bullet-proof "glass"). That's what most retrofit inserts I've seen are
made of.
Jim Morgan
Lasseigne) wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> As I mentioned in Bagging the Big Yellow, I will be getting the
> DeWalt 625 very soon. I remember someone posting that some
> plastics are better than others for the router table insert.
> Since this is a heavy router, I want to be sure to get the
> right kind. So what do y'all suggest.
>
> glenn gle...@math.odu.edu
3/8" phenolic.
Dr. Glenn Lasseigne
John Darlington
Hi Glenn,
Why limit yourself to plastic? Lee Valley Tools just recently intro-
duced a new router table top of steel that accepts any router without alter-
ation, comes with an alignment plug,2 inserts, 2 router clamp assemblies, and
instructions for building a stand. Available options are 1/4, 1/2, & 3/4"
template inserts. Soon to come a micro adjust fence.
Worth considering.
Regards,
jd
Herb Blair
(Peter Smullen) wrote:
> With a heavy 3hp router, there is too much flex in any of the plastics,
> perhaps with the exception of the 3/8" bakelite.
>
> However, I got a local shop to cut me a piece of 1/4" aluminum to size
> for $5.00, installed a set screw in each of the four corners for leveling,
> and have zero (practically speaking) deflection. I wouldn't go back to
> plastic for anything.
>
> Pete
I disagree, I have a DeWalt 625 and have it mounted on a 7 X 12" plate
made from 3/8" LEXAN. I have experience no flex!
Herb
Peter Smullen
Bill Hackenberger
> Hi all,
>
> As I mentioned in Bagging the Big Yellow, I will be getting the
> DeWalt 625 very soon. I remember someone posting that some
> plastics are better than others for the router table insert.
> Since this is a heavy router, I want to be sure to get the
> right kind. So what do y'all suggest.
>
> glenn gle...@math.odu.edu
I have made several fairly large 3/8" inserts for my router table.
It has a rather heavy 3 hp router. Here is what I found.
Polycarbonate - easy to machine, but too soft - will sag.
Lexan - won't sag, but a pain to machine. Use sharp bits and go slow.
It will grab the bit easily, and then chip badly. Nice - because
it is crystal clear.
Phenolic - real hard, won't sag, but I had good luck machining it.
Use carbide bits, go slow. Is probably hell on the bits.
There are three grades of phenolic. One is called linen,
another is called paper, and the last one is called something
else (I can't remember). Anyway, "paper" is the finest.
It is what I would recommend.
The really important thing I found out (the hard way) was that one
piece of plastic is not the same thickness as another. In fact, you
may find a variance from one edge to another. Surprisingly, this
is how this stuff is made. I ended up getting the plate levelers
from Woodhaven so I can adjust the plate anyway I want. I have
been pleased with this setup.
Hope this saves you some grief.
Bill Hackenberger
ha...@aim.com
John Feng
writes:
> I have tried plates made of polycarbonate (Lexan), acrylic Plexiglass)
> and phenolic (Bakelite is one type of phenolic). Polycarbonate and
> acrylic . . .(deleted) . . .
> I know use 1/4" phenolic with no problems whatsoever,
I second phenolic over plexiglass and lexan for its durability
as we've had phenolic router plates in 7 day a week usage
with 3 1/4 hp Porter Cables for as long as I've been with our
shop with no failures (7 years).
IronHead
phenolic (Bakelite is one type of phenolic). Polycarbonate and acrylic
However, the polycarbonate surface tends to have more friction than the
acrylic and the acrylic tends to crack anywhere you drill a hole after a
few months of hard use (at least for me). I know use 1/4" phenolic with no
problems whatsoever, my current plate that supports a 3 1/4hp Porter Cable
router is only 1/4" thick and has seen 2 years of hard daily use. If you
choose to use phenolic for your base plate, use only NEMA Grade X , it
is a mechanical grade that is reiforced for strength. Baklite is not
reinforced and was intended for electrical insulating applications (some
printed circuit boards are made of this).
I made a small cirlce jig for a router and cut a 3 1/2" hole in the center
of the plate for router bit clearance. I put a 1/8" by 1/8" rabbit on the
top side of the hole and made some discs with a corresponding rabbit to
snap in the hole. I have three inserts in use right now, and three blanks.
I have one with a 1/2" hole, one with a 1 1/2" hole and another that is
drilled and routed to accept standard Porter Cable guide bushings.
If I didn't explain something clear enough, I'll try and elaborate further
if needed.
Bryan
Bill Hackenberger
called Acrylic - "Lexan". Hope I didn't confuse anybody.
- Bill
> Dr. Glenn Lasseigne (gle...@cs.odu.edu) writes:
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > As I mentioned in Bagging the Big Yellow, I will be getting the
> > DeWalt 625 very soon. I remember someone posting that some
> > plastics are better than others for the router table insert.
> > Since this is a heavy router, I want to be sure to get the
> > right kind. So what do y'all suggest.
> >
> > glenn gle...@math.odu.edu
>
>
> I have made several fairly large 3/8" inserts for my router table.
> It has a rather heavy 3 hp router. Here is what I found.
>
> Polycarbonate - easy to machine, but too soft - will sag.
>
> Acrylic - won't sag, but a pain to machine. Use sharp bits and go slow.