I'm looking and much hoping for your feedback pertaining to your
satisfaction/disatisfaction with your Drum Sanding unit. What make
and model do you have and would you purchase one again if needed?
What other makes are available?
Thanks,
Todd
On Fri, 16 Jan 1998 16:08:01 -0800, Todd Wilmotte
<twil...@wwpco.com> wrote:
>Howdo,
> Performax 16-32 ... Grizzly G1066 ... Woodmaster .... Sunhill
> and even Ryobi owners.
>
> I'm looking and much hoping for your feedback pertaining to your
>satisfaction/disatisfaction with your Drum Sanding unit. What make
>and model do you have and would you purchase one again if needed?
>
>What other makes are available?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Todd
Just purchased the Performax 16-32. Setup is tricky, but
I found that leveling the drum is easiest if you take two pieces
of wood that are exactly the same height and putting one
on the side toward the motor and one on the outside
of the drum. This way you have two points on each end
of the drum to level it. Once set up it works great...except
for large items...don't expect to do tabletops with it (you will
end up with gouges). I would have bought the 22-44, but
my shop is just too small.
Chris
Todd,
I have the Ross thickness sander. It is a heavy duty drum sander. It runs
real smooth, and produces a nice finish. I purchased it off the used
market 2 years ago, and have not had a problem with, even with lots of
use.
Sure is a great time saver, if you build lots of paised panel doors like
I do.
-
TOM MEADOWS VDD...@PRODIGY.COM
Creative Works Custom Woodworking
Joplin MO
>Tom are the Paised panels kind of paisley designs or what . mjh
>>Tom are the Paised panels kind of paisley designs or what . mjh
Mike,
I build several styles of raised panel doors, square panel, arch top, and
cathederal are the most common.
If it's any consolation, there are several contributors to this group
who have the same problem with the Performax. The design of having one
open end is problematic.
-Jaz
Jack Zucker wrote in message <34C24259...@gwis.com>...
I also have the Ryobi 16/32 drum sander but, unlike some of the others, I
have been getting very satisfactory performance out of mine. It depends very
much on what you are going to ask it to do. Neither the Ryobi nor the
Performax is a heavy duty industrial machine and neither are capable of
thicknessing huge quantities of raw lumber.
I have used it primarily for thicknessing the wood for acoustic guitars. I
can take a piece of mahogany or rosewood that is 16 inches wide, 24 inches
long and 1/4 inch thick and sand it down to a thickness of 3/32" in ten or
fifteen minutes with multiple passes and a change of paper for the final
finish. The end product is ready for final sanding or scraping and it is
perfectly flat. It saves me many hours with the hand plane and it doesn't
tear out on curly grain. I have also used it for cabinet doors and other
similar projects with good results as long as you don't try to take of too
much too fast.
I have found the adjustment to be simple as long as the unit is firmly
mounted on a solid, level surface such as a workbench or stand. An uneven
mounting surface could induce some slight twist in the frame if it is bolted
down tight and would make it difficult to adjust. The rough adjustment is
accomplished by loosening four frame cap screws and putting blocks of the
same thickness under the inboard and outboard end of the drum. The drum is
aligned until it touches both blocks and the frame bolts tightened. If some
final minor adjustment is needed, three allen screws are loosened and one or
more shims (provided with the machine) are put between the drive belt platen
and the frame for minor adjustment. It is no worse than adjusting a table
saw and probably a little easier.
The tricky part is learning to balance the rate of feed with the depth of
cut and the grade of sandpaper for the type of wood being used. There are a
lot of variables. Just don't try to take off more than the machine can
handle or it will result in burning the wood or bogging down the machine. It
is not a production machine. I would not expect to use it 8 hours a day 5
days a week. For a light duty machine, I feel that it works as advertised
and has not given me any trouble.
Cheers,
Mark Middleton
I would like to know if a drum sander could ever take the place of a
thickness planer. I am going to be purchasing a lot of woodworking
equipment soon and would like to know whether I should buy a planer or a
drum sander.
Thanks for the help.
Joel
Tough question in an either/or context. Each has its pros and cons. The
planer is much more efficient, removing stock faster. The sander, without
proper dust collection, can be a mess.
The sander turns out a nicer finished surface that doesn't have the
washboarding often seen on planed stock. Also the sander is the only
(machine) answer when working with a difficult grain or highly figured piece
that would tear out on a planer.
I have a thickness planer and a smaller surface planer. I find that when I
need a wide sander, it's easier for me to rent time on a machine that can
handle 40" wide in one pass from a nearby cabinet maker at $80./hour. This
way I get the short term use of a $13,000 sander, and don't have to settle
on using a less accurate machine.
>Hi all,
>
>I would like to know if a drum sander could ever take the place of a
>thickness planer. I am going to be purchasing a lot of woodworking
>equipment soon and would like to know whether I should buy a planer or a
>drum sander.
>
>Guess it might depend on how you plan to purchase your lumber. If in
>the rough, then a planer, if already planed and you only want to take
>off a bit to true it up to a certain thickness, then definitly a drum
>sander.
>I have both, but the planer is sitting collecting dust, as I get my
>lumber in at 13/16" and sand it to 3/4". I would definitly recommend
>a double bag vacuum, it does make a bit of dust.
I'd love to have someone do all my planing for me, but the lumber I use
usually comes rough, and the price of outside planing may be too much. If I
can pass the cost on --- fine, and, at my age, it's a royal pain to hump
those boards.
Joel Tomesh wrote in message <34C4BBBA...@bull.cray.com>...
>Hi all,
>
>I would like to know if a drum sander could ever take the place of a
>thickness planer. I am going to be purchasing a lot of woodworking
>equipment soon and would like to know whether I should buy a planer or a
>drum sander.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Joel
Joel,
If you are talking about home shop equipment, do not expect the drum sander
to perform like a thickness planer. The planer can take off 1/8 to 1/16 inch
per pass while the sander will take off 1/32 to 1/64 of an inch per pass.
You will have to work a lot harder and longer with a drum sander to
accomplish the same thing.
Cheers,
Mark Middleton
Mike Rainville
>Hi all,
>
>I would like to know if a drum sander could ever take the place of a
>thickness planer. I am going to be purchasing a lot of woodworking
>equipment soon and would like to know whether I should buy a planer or a
>drum sander.
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Joel
Depends on how much stock you want to remove...most drum
sanders remove 1/32" on each pass maximum (with a coarse grit).
I would suggest buying both or possibly a machine that will do both
(not sure how good of job these do as I have no firsthand experience).
Chris B.
Mark Middleton wrote:
> Joel Tomesh wrote in message <34C4BBBA...@bull.cray.com>...
> >Hi all,
> >
> >I would like to know if a drum sander could ever take the place of a
> >thickness planer. I am going to be purchasing a lot of woodworking
> >equipment soon and would like to know whether I should buy a planer or a
> >drum sander.
> >
> >Thanks for the help.
> >
> >Joel
>
> Joel,