Finish For Cedar - Outdoor Furniture.

[DerbyDad03]

If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.

https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg

If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...

https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg

If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.

Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:

Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life

Yikes!

I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.

Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!

[k...@notreal.com]

No suggestions here but has anyone considered IPE for this sort of
thing? I'm considering it for deck railing, um, rails with black iron
balusters. and white PVC covered (PT) posts.

[Markem618]

On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.

Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.

[hub...@ccanoemail.com]

On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:

Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.

[DerbyDad03]

Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.

Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?

[hub...@ccanoemail.com]

On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
gloss semi-gloss satin

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish

Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.

[Sonny]

On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
> Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?

Long ago I use spar urethane on most of my outside stuff. It will yellow to some extent. Knock down the shine (burnish) with a ScotchBrite pad or crumpled brown paper bag.... steel wool will work, but I don't like cleaning up the filings from the nooks and crannies.

My red maple patio swing was coated with Spar U 30 yrs ago.... partial afternoon sun exposure. I recently power washed it, as 75% of the finish had failed. Only one seat slat has become damaged and unsightly. I don't plan to refinish it, but more likely build a new one with old cypress.

Sonny

[DerbyDad03]

On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 10:31:29 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
> On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> > Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
> > Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
> Long ago I use spar urethane on most of my outside stuff. It will yellow to some extent.

As will most of the finishes I'm looking at. Either yellow over time or start out by ambering :-(

> Knock down the shine (burnish) with a ScotchBrite pad or crumpled brown paper bag....

Thanks for that suggestion.

> steel wool will work, but I don't like cleaning up the filings from the nooks and crannies.

I hate using steel wool on wood for the same reason. I safe it for my pots and pans after
SWMBO makes one of her excellent meals. Phenomenal cook but she tends to leave the
pots and pans a bit difficult to clean.

>
> My red maple patio swing was coated with Spar U 30 yrs ago.... partial afternoon sun
> exposure. I recently power washed it, as 75% of the finish had failed. Only one seat slat
> has become damaged and unsightly. I don't plan to refinish it, but more likely build a
> new one with old cypress.
>
> Sonny

In reality, any refinishing I'll need to do (for appearance sake) will be limited to the 3 armrest
sections, the front seat rails and the top rails that support the back cushions. Whatever finish
I choose will be wipe on because I don't want to have sand any peeling finish (like poly) off
every few years.

https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg

[DerbyDad03]

From what I've been reading, any polyurethane finish is a b*itch to refinish as it has
to be sanded off once it starts to peel. That's why oil based finishes seem to be
recommended for exterior work. Just clean and recoat.

It's infuriating trying to find consistently clear comparisons on Pure Tung Oil, Tung Oil
Finishes, Pure Linseed Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil. I know the differences between the
products but so many articles (and forum responses) start out by explaining the
differences and then tend to drop the qualifiers, just calling one Tung Oil and the other
Linseed Oil. Most of the time you can't tell if they are talking about Pure or Boiled and
Pure or Finish.

As far as General Finishes products, I'm looking their Arm-R-Seal. They have a satin
finish, it's wipe-on so it's easy to apply and re-apply, but the ambering may be an issue.

https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/arm-r-seal-oil-based-topcoat

[Leon]

To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you have two options.

Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.

Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.

You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from
turning grey.

My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.


FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any
maintenance.

Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear, maybe keep it
covered with a cover when not in use, not just in the winter. But then
critters and mildew may take up residence. To keep it looking good you
have to have absolute minimum direct sunlight exposure.

[Leon]

Ipe is a good outdoor wood. BUT it too will fade to a grey color when
exposed to sunlight. About 14 years ago I rebuilt 3 home owner park
benches out of Ipe. They look great other than a few years of sun
exposure when they turned grey.

[Leon]

For certain Spar remains a bit tackey. It has to flex. Once brittle
it deteriorates and like all other outdoor finishes it has to be
reapplied. I use this on a bench that I built 20+ years ago. It
needed to be recoaded every 2~3 years, which the customer did not do.

>
> Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?

Steel wool but you may end up with little particles sticking to the surface.

[hub...@ccanoemail.com]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 08:09:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

It doesn't say it's for exterior use ?
John T.

[Leon]

On 7/24/2022 10:09 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
> On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 10:31:29 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
>> On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>>> Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
>>> Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
>> Long ago I use spar urethane on most of my outside stuff. It will yellow to some extent.
>
> As will most of the finishes I'm looking at. Either yellow over time or start out by ambering :-(
>
>> Knock down the shine (burnish) with a ScotchBrite pad or crumpled brown paper bag....
>
> Thanks for that suggestion.

FWIW power washing unprotected wood will restore the original
appearance. BUT it is a bit damaging to the surface and may need to be
resanded. This is a good remedy for fences that are not expected to
last much over 15~25 years. Today's cedar is not what it used to be.

[DerbyDad03]

That was one of the things I was looking into. There were some forum posts that indicated
that it has been used outside, but I didn't see that on their website. There's an indy paint shop
that I use a lot and they carry GF products. I'm going to talk to them tomorrow about options.

[DerbyDad03]

What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.

[Leon]

Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.

Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned
up quickly.

For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the
sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is
penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise
you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived.

What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply
every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.

[Leon]

Something to think about.

If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period
of time, it would not be difficult to find.

Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to
figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long
the features will actually last....

If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine
furniture.

And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home
when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too.

[DerbyDad03]

I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.

I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even
more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that
I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way,
I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.

The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny
finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
acknowledged his suggestions.

From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish,
Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.

I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:36:25 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

Ipe is commonly used for things like boardwalks, so there are many
examples of it around. From what I understand, if it's kept sealed it
retains it's great color and grain. It might have to be done every
year or two but it's just the rails aren't a big area, unlike an
entire boardwalk. It's less than 24' x two rails, at least for the
current deck. I'd have to find some 2x6s, at least.

[k...@notreal.com]

Spar varnish is called "spar varnish" because it's used to varnish the
spars on a sailboat. The spars flex under wind loading so the varnish
has to be flexible or it'll just flake off. If you don't need a
flexible finish, spar varnish isn't needed.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

How about penetrating epoxy? I've never tried it for anything other
than stabilizing rotting wood. Perhaps it doesn't have any UV
protection?

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).

[hub...@ccanoemail.com]

My understanding at the time was that spar varnish
had UV inhibitors whereas regular "indoor varnish" did not.
... hence the price.
My fiberglass canoe builder recommended carnuba floor wax
for the canoe - from the hardware store - $ 5.99 per can -
same stuff at the boat store was 3 X the price.
John T.

[Leon]

I have not.

>
> I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even
> more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that
> I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way,
> I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
> sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
> Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.

I understand. But every product is different and some products will
have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need
to apologize!

>
> The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny
> finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
> acknowledged his suggestions.
>
> From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish,
> Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
> recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
> correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.

Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a
layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between"
maintenance.

>
> I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
> exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
> finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
> calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
>

I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do
what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no
answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)

And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.

Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.

But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.

And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform
like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.

I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic
expectations.

[Leon]

A good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be
possible.

And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or
varnish!

Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.

[DerbyDad03]

Returning *was* possible, but not anymore.

The sofa section of the sectional, more or less. ;-)

https://i.imgur.com/YbrMW8Q.jpg

They've got some kind a weird return policy that includes the words
"not modified". Picky, picky.

>
> And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
> our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
> from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
> based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
> could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
> them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
> could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
> little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
> it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
> less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or
> varnish!
>
> Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.

No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look
like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)

And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually
ever do that?

[Leon]

Your need to refinish that chest of drawers! LOL

>
> They've got some kind a weird return policy that includes the words
> "not modified". Picky, picky.

Tell them the reason your are returning is because you bought short and
got billed for long!.

I was once told I could not return a sheet of plywood because I had cut
it. I explained that only after I cut it did I notice the outer
veneer was de laminated. They finally understood.

>
>>
>> And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
>> our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
>> from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
>> based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
>> could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
>> them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
>> could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
>> little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
>> it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
>> less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or
>> varnish!
>>
>> Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
>
> No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look
> like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)

The particular ones I was looking at had a hard balance surface on the
back, solid colored in the same shade as the front.

>
> And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually
> ever do that?

I would like to have the option. In our neck of woods and in our
neighborhood we were the first buyers to go bold with what I described
as the "black" cabinets for the kitchen. They are actually a very dark
moca brown. The other choices for cabinet colors was the multiple
shades of honey brown oak cabinets. We were done with that look.
Apparently the builder was done with the color too as every spec home
that DR Horton built after that, to finish out the neighborhood, had the
dark brown moca color cabinets. In fact the builder asked permission
to photograph the interior of our home, before we moved in, to show the
designers for another neighborhood how this all looked. Go figure.

Back to the question, we got tired of the dark brown and our kitchen is
only 12 years old.
Actually my wife is the problem.. ;~) The dark brown along with the
tiny details of the door frames catch dust. And the dust is hard to
remove from the cracks. So a smoother profile for the door frames,
shaker probably, and lighter color paint. We may not like the painted
and wood grain combination. Right now we are thinking some kind of
bleached grey wood grain for the panels and a tinted grey for the paint.
With center panels let into the backs of the door frames via rabbet
joints the panels can be easily removed and replaced. And the frames
can be easily painted another color if the center panels can be easily
removed.

[DerbyDad03]

I have snipped major portions of this post and forwarded it to your wife,
highlighting the line where you said. "Actually my wife is the problem."

Good luck.

[Leon]

You are a true friend!

[DerbyDad03]

I get the impression that you are thinking that my expectations are higher
than they actually are. I totally expect to have to maintain the finish on a
regular basis. Always have.

In any case...

Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.

https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961

I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
color as close to the original as possible.

Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may
impart some pink tones - which I won't want.

Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks
the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
sooner than later, should postpone the greying.

Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I
had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)

I hope that the Monocoat product gets SWMBO and I the look we want
because it fits one of my desires - maintenance does not require any
sanding, just cleaning and re-coating. (Yes, I am aware that "no sanding"
is not a given. Only the aging is.)

Woodcraft carries a resin-modified Tung Oil product - Waterlox Marine
Formula that supposedly "forms a protective and elastic finish against
sun/UV rays, harsh weather and moisture exposure."

Resin-modified Tung Oil - geez, something else for me to look up. ;-)

[Leon]

Yeah, ;~) but how many times?

>
> In any case...
>
> Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.

I was unaware that any of their products were for out doors. I'll be
anxious to see the results.

WOW! That may be your ticket for ease of application and
reapplication.

I have been using Rubio Monocoat and really like the ease of use.
Pricey but a little goes a very long way. I did not see any mention of
using their harder for the out door product.

>
> https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
>
> I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
> color as close to the original as possible.
>
> Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
> and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
> there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may
> impart some pink tones - which I won't want.

Put a bit of mineral spirits on the wood to see what color it would
naturally be with a clear finish.

>
> Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
> the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks
> the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
> I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
> sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
>
> Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I
> had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)

Remember the comment about my wife? I have sent this to Tammy, because
you know, you are a good friend! ;~)

[DerbyDad03]

What final grit do *you* use before application? This cedar (specifically the
2 x 4's) seems almost ready to finish right from the lumber yard. The 1 x 4's
are a different story but they'll be under the cushions so the finish is more
for protection than looks. I ran them through the planer, then a quick hit with
180 in the ROS to smooth off the "tops" so the cushions won't snag and pull
threads. Put a round over on all the edges too.

> >
> > https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
> >
> > I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
> > color as close to the original as possible.
> >
> > Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
> > and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
> > there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may
> > impart some pink tones - which I won't want.

My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.

> Put a bit of mineral spirits on the wood to see what color it would
> naturally be with a clear finish.

I've done that. I also tried a couple of coats of Tung Oil (which I know won't
last outside) just to see what a clear oil finish looks like. It looks like I want
it to look. ;-)

> >
> > Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
> > the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks
> > the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
> > I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
> > sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
> >
> > Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I
> > had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)
> Remember the comment about my wife? I have sent this to Tammy, because
> you know, you are a good friend! ;~)

(Putting on my General's stripes) "Fifth!"

[k...@notreal.com]

All of the above. Being intended for marine use, it needs all that
stuff. One thing it doesn't have is an infinite life. That's what
swabbies are for.

<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Spar_varnish>

[k...@notreal.com]

On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 19:38:43 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

Wood bleach (oxalic acid) works fairly well to restore color. The
entire finish will likely have to be removed first or it might blotch.

>Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
>
>But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
>how it is working.

TANSTAAFL

[Radey Shouman]

DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:

> If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
>
> https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
>
> If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
>
> https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
>
> If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
>
> Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
> this somewhere:
>
> Once a week for a month
> Once a month for year
> Once a year for life
>
> Yikes!
>
> I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
> to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
> hours of sun each day.
>
> Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!

I have a clothesline made of white cedar, and a lettuce bed of white
cedar and red cedar in my yard. They sit in full sun, or rain, or snow,
and have for a bit over two years now. I finished them with raw linseed
oil, because I wanted something I could trust next to food.

I applied two coats, with a brush, maybe a week apart. Since then I
haven't redone it.

The white cedar quickly darkened to almost a charcoal gray, darker than
it would have if left untreated. The red cedar is still red, but
darkened, and with dark gray flecks in it. I'm satisfied with the way
it looks, but no one will wonder why I chucked fine furniture out in
yard.

Boiled linseed oil might not darken so much, but I can't say from
experience.

[Leon]

IIRC 150~180. I think the indoor product recommends 150. Try each grit.

>
>>>
>>> https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
>>>
>>> I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
>>> color as close to the original as possible.
>>>
>>> Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
>>> and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
>>> there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may
>>> impart some pink tones - which I won't want.
>
> My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.

Do not doubt what your wife sees, even if she is wrong. Just a
frindly warning.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Tue, 26 Jul 2022 10:18:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

>On 7/25/2022 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
>> On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 4:36:08 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:

<...>

>> My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.
>
>Do not doubt what your wife sees, even if she is wrong. Just a
>frindly warning.
>

Wrong? Isn't that your job?