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Gorilla glue for veneer?
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Fred Kenney
Apr 7, 2000, 3:00:00 AM4/7/00
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Does anyone use gorilla glue or similar for veneer? If so how do you
apply it and what are the pros and cons. Thanks, Fred
*************************************************
Custom Crafted Cue cases made from exotic wood
floridafred.com
flori...@mindspring.com
apply it and what are the pros and cons. Thanks, Fred
*************************************************
Custom Crafted Cue cases made from exotic wood
floridafred.com
flori...@mindspring.com
Gothmog
Apr 7, 2000, 3:00:00 AM4/7/00
to
I have used it, on my only veneering project, a walnut burl dash for my MG.
the first thing, is it doesn't swell the wood, like water based glues, and any squeeze out isn't as tough as titebond, being
slightly porous, so it will accept stains and oils to a certain degree, unlike titebond...which won't.
I found this important because of the pourus nature of the burl allows lots of bleed through.
it's also water and steam proof, important for a dash, that might get rained on.
it will, however, stick to damn near anything. My first attempt used a homemade press with melamine cauls, but it was ruined when I
tried to separate them. under pressure, the glue forced it's way through the veneer and bonded so well to the melamine, that the
plywood core of the dash delaminated in places without letting go of the caul. the next attempt I added sheets of plastic, 8 mil I
think, between the caul and the piece. It didn't stick to that.
That was 4 years ago and the dash is still going strong...no problems
You may view it here
http://web.dbtech.net/~mwilson/mg.html
the first thing, is it doesn't swell the wood, like water based glues, and any squeeze out isn't as tough as titebond, being
slightly porous, so it will accept stains and oils to a certain degree, unlike titebond...which won't.
I found this important because of the pourus nature of the burl allows lots of bleed through.
it's also water and steam proof, important for a dash, that might get rained on.
it will, however, stick to damn near anything. My first attempt used a homemade press with melamine cauls, but it was ruined when I
tried to separate them. under pressure, the glue forced it's way through the veneer and bonded so well to the melamine, that the
plywood core of the dash delaminated in places without letting go of the caul. the next attempt I added sheets of plastic, 8 mil I
think, between the caul and the piece. It didn't stick to that.
That was 4 years ago and the dash is still going strong...no problems
You may view it here
http://web.dbtech.net/~mwilson/mg.html
--
"He who dies with the most toys probably pissed his wife off a lot along the
way"
Fred Kenney wrote in message <38ee5dd5...@news.mindspring.com>...
Gothmog
Apr 8, 2000, 3:00:00 AM4/8/00
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thx for the comp. I used a trim roller to spread 1 surface only, and it doesnt take a lot 'cause it swells..lay it down like you
would contact cement
would contact cement
--
"He who dies with the most toys probably pissed his wife off a lot along the
way"
Fred Kenney wrote in message <38ef293e...@news.mindspring.com>...
>That's a real beauty. You did some job. How did you spread the Gorilla
>Glue. I'm thinking something like a stiff business card to get a nice
>thin even coat. The advantages you mention are my thoughts exactly. I
>use wax paper in my press now with titebond to be sure I don't glue
>everything together. I'm always looking to improve and try something
>new. Thanks, Fred
Fred Kenney
Apr 8, 2000, 3:00:00 AM4/8/00
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