How to cut 60 degree angle
Rev Chuck
Drill a hole through a length of 2 x 2 (not 1.5 x 1.5) hardwood scrap
and cut the end off at the required joint angle. True the angled
face with either a plane or a sheet of coarse sandpaper glued to
a flat square of plywood. Sanding won't round over the face here because
the 1" hole acts like a hollow grind, and helps you keep it flat.
Rough cut your dowels about 1/16" oversize, insert through the "cheater
block", and true the ends with a chisel or plane. If the dowels didn't
shift within the block -- shim with masking tape if need be -- the
completed joints will be invisible. Insure that the end faces are aligned
to with each other by penciling a straight line down the length of each
dowel and indexing it to a corresponding tick mark drawn on the block's
gauging face.
se...@thehouse.org wrote:
>
> I'm trying to cut a long 1" dowel into three identical sections that
> fit together to form an equilateral triangle. I want the joins to be
> flush, and that means making them symmetric with cuts at an angle of
> 60 degrees from the perpendicular.
>
> What's got me stuck is finding a good way to make 60 degree cuts.
> I haven't been able to find a decent miter box -- just cheap plastic
> guides for 45 and 90 degree cuts. The power miter saws I've seen only
> go up to 45 degrees, and I think it would be difficult to properly
> brace and clamp the pipes onto the saw table perpendicular to the
> proper placement.
>
> I could make a box and cut a slot to guide other cuts, but I have the
> same problem making the guide slot as I do in cutting the pipe.
>
> The only solution I've come up with is to construct a cutting guide by
> mounting four tall posts on a base in such a way that the pipe would
> fit through one slot and a hand saw through the other.
>
> /
> X/X
> ---------/--------------
> / dowel
> -------/----------------
> X/X
> /
>
> I'd probably add some more bracing to keep the dowel in place.
>
> Is there a better solution? Am I not looking hard enough for a decent
> miter box?
>
> Please cc replies to se...@thehouse.org if convenient.
>
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se...@thehouse.org
Buldog4636
i ran into the same problem when doing a oak wall with 30 and 60 degree angles.
In reality you can get you 60 degree and with a standard miter, what youre
realy looking for is a 30 degree angle. To obtain this i simply taped a speed
square on my table saw miter gauge and wala. I was able to get a 30 degree
angle off of my {true} 90 to 45 degree miter gauge
Phil
Larry Jaques
Need a 60 degree angle? That's easy:
1- Cut parts to precisely 59 degrees.
2- File/rasp/sand to suit.
---------------------------------------------------------------
Never put off 'til tomorrow | http://diversify.com/ljaques
what you can avoid altogether. | Executive Gifts Online
---------------------------------------------------------------
Shawn Grossman
Actually, you need to cut a 30 degree angle on the end of each dowel.
Since you are butting them together in a triangle, the 30+30=60 at each
joint.
> --
> SPAM overload forces me to use a bogus address. I am:
> Xstin...@Xgte.netX << delete X's
Tony Burton
Well, isn't that 60 degrees to the perpendicular?
Shawn Grossman <impal...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Actually, you need to cut a 30 degree angle on the end of each dowel.
>Since you are butting them together in a triangle, the 30+30=60 at each
>joint.
>> >I'm trying to cut a long 1" dowel into three identical sections that
>> >fit together to form an equilateral triangle. I want the joins to be
>> >flush, and that means making them symmetric with cuts at an angle of
>> >60 degrees from the perpendicular.
>> >
TonyB.
Ed Piedad
Actually if you want to form an equilateral triangle you want the interior
angles to be 60 degrees. All the interior angles in an equilateral triangle
are 60 degrees. I don't know where the reference to a perpindicular came
from since it is imaterial.
60 degrees is a complement of 30 degrees so set 30 degrees in your miter saw
and cut into a right angle. This will be your waste product and your good
side will be the other side.
Tony Burton wrote in message <6g5rca$t4k$2...@nnrp1.ni.net>...
Tony Burton
The perpendicular came from the original post. I took it to mean at
right angles to the main axis of the 1 inch dowel.
90 - 60 = 30. Semantics.
"Ed Piedad" <ede...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>Actually if you want to form an equilateral triangle you want the interior
>angles to be 60 degrees. All the interior angles in an equilateral triangle
>are 60 degrees. I don't know where the reference to a perpindicular came
>from since it is imaterial.
TonyB.
Thomas Baumann
I'm not sure of the answer you are looking for. But, I would suggest
that you don't go off on a "tangent". Got sit down have a piece of "Pi"
and wait for a "Sine".
Good luck,
--
**********************************************
Please remove the "nospam" from the beginning
of my email address when replying to any mail.
**********************************************
Max
Seth (??),
Try this:
Say you want to cut a 12 inch dowel at 30 deg.
1. fix a 1X1 piece of wood, about the same length, to the table (drawing follows).
2. cut a 1X1 piece to exactly 6 inches (half of the dowel length, what ever it is).
3. Place the dowel at an angle (see drawing) such that the length from contact point to contact
point is exactly twice the short piece (see #2).
4. hold firm and cut. Make sure saw is pressed against block to ensure correct angle..
Geometry wins again!!
0
--0
| | 0
| | 0
---------------0
|___________| 0
0 = path of dowel.
Max
Tambour Ltd. - Coatings, resins and emulsions.
"If you try to fail, and succeed, which have you done?"
lj...@lehigh.edu
In article <6g200f$q5m$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>, se...@thehouse.org writes:
>I'm trying to cut a long 1" dowel into three identical sections that
>fit together to form an equilateral triangle. I want the joins to be
>flush, and that means making them symmetric with cuts at an angle of
>60 degrees from the perpendicular.
>
>I haven't been able to find a decent miter box -- just cheap plastic
>guides for 45 and 90 degree cuts. The power miter saws I've seen only
>go up to 45 degrees, and I think it would be difficult to properly
>brace and clamp the pipes onto the saw table perpendicular to the
>proper placement.
You don't need just one 60 degree cut, you need two which are properly lined
up with respect to each other. This means you have to temporarily attach the
dowel to a jig which you can rotate between cuts; don't try to remove the
dowel after the first cut and then set it up for the second. Maybe you could
take a square (or rectangular) piece of plywood, glue and screw a 1x1 to it
and clamp your dowel to the 1x1 (maybe with some hot glue to help hold it).
Put the 1x1 at an angle so your cuts are at convenient angles (like square)
with respect to the axes set by the plywood. The more time you spend on the
jig, the easier the final cuts will be. Off hand, I would say if you spend
less than two hours thinking about and making this jig, you aren't doing it
right.
Al McLennan
Nathan Domagalski
> In article <6g200f$q5m$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>, se...@thehouse.org writes:
> >I'm trying to cut a long 1" dowel into three identical sections that
> >fit together to form an equilateral triangle. I want the joins to be
> >flush, and that means making them symmetric with cuts at an angle of
> >60 degrees from the perpendicular.
> >
> >What's got me stuck is finding a good way to make 60 degree cuts.
> >I haven't been able to find a decent miter box -- just cheap plastic
> >guides for 45 and 90 degree cuts. The power miter saws I've seen only
> >go up to 45 degrees, and I think it would be difficult to properly
> >brace and clamp the pipes onto the saw table perpendicular to the
> >proper placement.
Before you get started, re-think that angle. If you want to join two
pieces of wood at a 60 degree angle, you don't want to make a 60 degree
cut; you want a 30 degree cut (i.e., two 30 degree angles make a 60 degree
angle). Just like two 45 degree angles make a right angle.
------------------------------
Nate Domagalski
REAL email: change "nospam" to "ptdprolog"
Rick Redus
> I'm trying to cut a long 1" dowel into three identical sections that
> fit together to form an equilateral triangle. I want the joins to be
> flush, and that means making them symmetric with cuts at an angle of
> 60 degrees from the perpendicular.
>
> What's got me stuck is finding a good way to make 60 degree cuts.
> I haven't been able to find a decent miter box -- just cheap plastic
> guides for 45 and 90 degree cuts. The power miter saws I've seen only
> go up to 45 degrees, and I think it would be difficult to properly
> brace and clamp the pipes onto the saw table perpendicular to the
> proper placement.
snip.....
It is a curious anomaly of woodworking that most tools are calibrated such
that setting them to 0 degrees will generate a 90 degree cut. Pretty
awkward sentence, I admit, but the point is this: set a chop saw to 30
degrees to achieve a 60 degree cut.
If you cut the same angle in a piece of flat stock, you can use it to
register the cut end of the dowel against to keep the cuts symmetrical
about the axis.
--
RR