I described the problem to the Jet service department and they sent me a replacement
chuck, and that's improved things some... about 10 to 12 thousandths, but only after
I removed the chuck body from the tapered shank and smoothed them down with crocus
cloth. I marked the shank and chuck and varied the rotation angle to get the wobble
down to the 10 - 12 thousandths.
Has anyone experienced similar problems or have any ideas I might try?
Thanks.
Joe
--
My return address contains two minus signs (-) in a
(so far ineffective) attempt to thwart spammers. To get me
for real, delete both minus signs in my return address.
1. Put a bolt or heavy steel rod in the chuck and tighten.
2. Measure the runout and mark the side of the chuck that is furthest "out".
3. Take a heavy hammer (I'm not kidding! They actually wrote this!) and
hit the bolt on the side of the mark a few times.
4. Check the runout again and repeat as necessary.
I don't remember the author. It was a book on drill presses and jigs that
I picked up at the library. It was a fairly recent publish, and I seem to
remember that it was part of a workshop series that had a blue cover, (sort
of like all those Time-Life books in the '70s). If I'm not mistaken, this
was the book I used to make the quill lock for my Jet benchtop model.
Can anyone else verify this trick, or am I having flashbacks again? :-)
Just Emptying My Brain,
James
No Spam, please. I will find you, and I will give you a wedgie.
"Spam is ham that didn't pass the physical." -Hawkeye Pierce
I bought the same drill press and had the same problem. They also sent
me a replacement chuck and arbor-quill. I installed the chuck but didn't
install the quill as it looked to be a nightmare to perform. It improved
the performance to acceptable levels but I can still see some wobble.
I've never bothered to measure it figuring that if I can SEE IT, it's
bad enough. Interestingly enough, I went to my dealer and looked at the
Delta 17" press and although it's also made in Taiwan and looks very
similar, it ran straight and true - even after being used for the past
year as an oscillating sander!
I originally bought the Jet because I liked the depth rod mechanism vs
the depth ring of the Delta but I now regret my purchase somewhat. As it
turns out, there's no way to "zero" the depth rod and it makes it much
harder to drill to a precise depth.
-Jaz
I can only caution that first one HAS TO make certain that
it is the chuck's mount that is off and not the quill or
spindle. Drill presses are fairly simple mechanisms so the
ones made today are usually fairly concentric in the quill
assembly, but I'd check it first before I go wacking a rod
chucked in the chuck.
The check can be easily accomplished if one has a dial
indicator or a fine check can be performed using a feeler
gage and a reference surface such as a board clamped up to
the quill.
SMG
First of all, using a bolt or a heavy steel rod is useless, as the runout
in the rod or bolt alone could be many times what the chuck might have.
It MIGHT be straight, but I wouldn't bet on it. Second of all, banging
on the bolt is simply going to bend the bolt and/or damage the chuck or
the bearings...
I wouldn't suggest trying it...
--Al Amaral--
--
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Al Amaral Al.A...@East.Sun.COM
"G'day, and welcome to All Things Delta. If it's not Delta, IT'S CRAP!"
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Check out my web site @ http://members.aol.com/Alamaral/WoodShop.html
It contains plans for a folding outfeed table, an overarm TS guard,
a shop built DC system using a Toro leaf blower for power, and the saga
of my 1944 Unisaw restoration, with before and after pics.
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