I bought this saw at a garage sale. the seller cut a board, said it
needs a blade. But, I can't remove the old blade. The armature of the
motor turns when I try to turn the blade nut. If I "jam" the blade so
it can't turn, the armature still turns. How do I lock the motor to
remove the blade?
Are you *absolutely* sure you're turning the arbor nut in the right
direction to loosen it?
Yes! And I did try both clock and counter clock wise.
Try an impact driver--one of them spring-loaded, hit 'em w/ a hammer
thingies.
Sounds like perhaps original owner may have used it w/o having fully
tightened blade and the starting torque can really overtighten and
slightly stretch bolts. (DAMHIKT :( but I'll tell the story
anyway--got interrupted while changing blade on Dad's little contractor
saw while building the kitchen cabinets. Forgot where was when got back
and just automatically turned it on to go. Spun that sucker on so tight
was a _major_ pita when did need to change next time)
My DeWalt has an armature locking pin; don't know B&D well enough but
look carefully, it's a pretty small little rod that could be overlooked.
If have a buddy or know some service shop well, maybe could drop by and
borrow an impact wrench or get them to do it for you, maybe???
--
Actually, if it is slipping when you hold the balde then it isn't so
tight it shouldn't be able to break it loose. If there is no obvious
brake, which I assume there isn't I can think of two options.
1. See if there is any cooling opening in the moter wherby you can
gently JAM in a screwdriver or other implement to hold the motor while
you work the nut.
2. If you have a hammer\impact drill and can set it up with a socket,
that will surely breal it loose, as long as it is spinning the right
direction. Nothing works better than vibration. Along that same line,
holdingthe blade and doing some light tapping on an open end or box
wrench can have the same effect.
Also might try some wd40 or other penetrating rust\sieze killer but of
it gets between the blade and washer it will more easily slip so be
careful.
I don't know if you have the manual or not, but it says to push the
blade into the table top to keep it from turning. Doesn't sound like
that will help you much if the arbor is still turning.
Also, I noticed that that saw was the subject of a recall.
You'd think he'd be suspicious when after asking the guy how long he had
the saw, the guy help up three fingers and said, "four years."
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
ROFL .... now to get the coffee out of the keyboard ;)
diggerop
Nonny
"Dave - Parkville, MD" <very_di...@yahoo.com> wrote in
message
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--
Nonny
You cannot make a stupid kid smart by
handing him a diploma. Schools need standards
to measure the amount of education actually
absorbed by children. Don't sacrifice the smart
kids to make the dumb ones feel good about themselves.
As others have said, I'm fairly sure the saw has an armature lock
(the one that shows up on Amazon does). If you can't find one,
use a scrap piece of wood set just like you planned to cut it.
Cram the blade into the board. Turn the nut clockwise. If the
armature turns and the blade does not, there is a different
problem - the threads are hurt or the nut is rusted on.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
"Tom" <tomk...@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:de3f2eb2-2a7c-46c1...@p36g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
My Craftsman hand saw started doing this same thing last year. I think
a brake went bad!? But I am able to change blades. I have a "nut" on
the rear of the blade that I have to hold while turning the front arbor
screw. This keeps the shaft from turning. I hope this is helpful.
Mike in Ohio
In addition to the other good suggestions, slather the nut and shaft with
nut-release juice.
With the saw blade turning toward you to cut, the nut comes off the
way the teeth point.
Vacuum and then blow all the sawdust out of the saw. Now get your
littlel propane torch out and put it right on the nut while spinning
the blade with your hand. Once it's good and hot, try loosening it
again. It should pop off.
If not, remove any side panel to get a straight shot at the arbor nut
with an impact gun set to tighten. Arbors are reverse threaded.
Did someone try to pull a "saw stop" thing with this one? "OK, turn
it on and I'll swing/jam a bat into the teeth at full speed. That
oughta stop 'er, JimmyBob!"
----------------------------------------------------
Thesaurus: Ancient reptile with excellent vocabulary
====================================================
> Vacuum and then blow all the sawdust out of the saw. Now get your
> littlel propane torch out and put it right on the nut while spinning
> the blade with your hand. Once it's good and hot, try loosening it
> again. It should pop off.
Not on my watch.
A 1500 Watt heat gun, maybe, but not a propane torch.
Lew
Somehow I was thinking "table saw", not miter. If your miter has
plastic safety shields and other plastic bits, no to both.
Otherwise, I like the propane torch because it puts the heat -exactly-
where I point it rather than heating everything to that temp.
YMMV.
>> Are you *absolutely* sure you're turning the arbor nut in the right
>> direction to loosen it?
>
>Yes! And I did try both clock and counter clock wise.
The easiest way to determine is that an arbor nut turns to tighten in
the same direction as the way the blade turns to cut wood.
--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgri...@7cox.net
<ups...@teksavvy.com> wrote in message
news:tmikf5hueh3ppnno4...@4ax.com...
> With the saw blade turning toward you to cut, the nut comes off the
> way the teeth point.
Assuming the blade is installed correctly. :-)
> Nut-release juice? <Insert your own joke here.>
I'm SURE I got some spam with that in the Subject line.....
Always always with out exception you loosen a nut by turning it in the same
dirrection that it spins when running.
Have you checked for an armature lock button?
If it doesn't come off any other way find a service station and tip a
mechanic to take it off with a big impact wrench. There should be enough
friction for the impact to trigger even if the blade is slipping on the
shaft.
If there is enough space between the nut and the end of the shaft
drill a small hole through the shaft end so you can get a awl or other
rod in place to hold the shaft still while loosing the nut.