Shaper HP for raised panels
johndoe44
Is a 1.5 HP shaper like the Grizzly G1035 powerful enough to cut raised
panel cabinet doors using a 4" (or so) raised panel & back cutter? Since
it's cutting the raised panel front and the decorative groove on the
back I'm thinking the 1.5 HP might not be enough. I'm shopping for a
shaper and want to make sure I'm getting the power I need without
breaking my bank.
Monty
George M. Kazaka
I would advise not to go less that 3Hp,
Personally for me I consider a shaper at 5HP to be small
Good Luck with your decision
George
"johndoe44" <john...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:WTKwb.54011$Ox7....@newssvr25.news.prodigy.com...
RWM
"George M. Kazaka" <spec...@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:iUMwb.1323$sW1....@news.uswest.net...
> If you are going to invest in a shaper that means your will be using it,
> I would advise not to go less that 3Hp,
> Personally for me I consider a shaper at 5HP to be small
>
What do you built that makes 5 HP small for a shaper?
Bob McBreen
Richards
however, any shaper (that I know of) would do the job if you take
several cuts. I would never try panel cutting (one pass) without a
power feeder.
George M. Kazaka
I am a pro and do nothing but custom work, that I design, I have a 5 hp for
some work and 6.6 for other work.
and someday I am going to rebuild the shaper that I made with a 10 HP, Have
all the components stored in a box, I got rid of the first table when I
moved here to AZ almost 10 years ago.
If a machinery manufacturer says they recommend a 1 HP motor on say a
Jointer than I would by the 1-1/2 Hp
All above is okay for me, I know a lot here do not need the power that i
want for your home work shops
But lets face it how much more is to go from 1-1/2 HP to 3-HP
Hell I have 3-1/2 HP routers.
George
"RWM" <bobm...@exmsft.com> wrote in message
news:afednfqn6KP...@comcast.com...
RWM
> Hi Bob,
> I am a pro and do nothing but custom work, that I design, I have a 5 hp
for
> some work and 6.6 for other work.
> and someday I am going to rebuild the shaper that I made with a 10 HP,
Have
> all the components stored in a box, I got rid of the first table when I
> moved here to AZ almost 10 years ago.
Wow that is a lot of power!
It is always safer to use the right powered machine instead of pushing a
machine beyond it's designed limits.
Bob McBreen
George M. Kazaka
Not to say that i haven't strained a motor or two beyond its limits over the
years.
Hell I've even strained my own motor past the limits a time or two! or
three! or four!!
Awe hell I lost count years ago. <G>
Sent ya a private e-mail hope it went through
George
"RWM" <bobm...@exmsft.com> wrote in message
news:y9KdnSokIfT...@comcast.com...
David DeCristoforo
Also, don't overlook the relationship between the HP rating and the
spindle size. For example, 3 - 5 HP behind a 1/2" spindle is bordering
on dangerous.
DD
"It's easy when you know how..."
Johnny Shines
RWM
><SNIP
> Sent ya a private e-mail hope it went through
> George
>
> The email didn't get through. My address is munged. Get rid of the XXX.
Bob McBreen
George M. Kazaka
Wilson Lamb
Freud, about 5", with an undercutter. Almost all my panels have been cut at
10K RPM, but I have some twisted grain hickory and oak that makes me slow
the bit. Then it cuts fine in one pass.
Wilson
"Richards" <mi...@xmission.com> wrote in message
news:bq0hub$l5f$1...@terabinaries.xmission.com...
Tom Kohlman
most of the tools we own. And they work just fine. We have time that is
not by the hour.
"David DeCristoforo" <da...@privacy.net> wrote in message
news:om08svsj0evd1v4ot...@4ax.com...
Larry Jaques
brought forth from the murky depths:
Little Tommy Watson has a 2hp spinny thing you might
want to look at. He put it up here on the Wreck today.
Look for "shaper/moulder".
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David DeCristoforo
>most of the tools we own. And they work just fine. We have time that is
>not by the hour.
True, true all true, alltho what "works just fine" may be somewhat
subjective... Even so, it would seem to me that if one can afford the
"right tools" then one might have more time for whatever one might
want to do. I have many woodworking friends who have "time that is not
by the hour" and who have better equipped shops than I. So my comments
are not so far off the mark as to be construed as being out of touch
with reality.
Jim Wilson
Well, my 1 HP shaper handles 4" panel raisers just fine! Of course, it
has a real honest-to-goodness horsepower in it; not one of those cheap
import horsepowers. (G) It's a 1934 Delta with the original repulsion-
induction motor. I guess horses were stronger in those days...
Seriously, though, if you're buying *new* you want at least 3 HP for
turning panel raisers, unless it will be seeing very infrequent use at
such loads. Five if you plan on doing it regular-like. (G)
Jim
Mark & Juanita
da...@privacy.net says...
Agreed. I have a shop that is now a hobby and a 3 hp Woodtek shaper.
Your advice regarding 1/2" spindle sizes is appreciated. I have more or
less settled on using 3/4" spindle sizes as my compromise between
ruggedness and affordability.
David Hall
>Your advice regarding 1/2" spindle sizes is appreciated. I have more or
>less settled on using 3/4" spindle sizes as my compromise between
>ruggedness and affordability.
>
What year & model is your Woodtec shaper? I just got a 1992 with a sliding top.
I need a manual (and a fence). Any chance of scanning the manual for me?
Dave Hall
Mike Myers
>Is a 1.5 HP shaper like the Grizzly
I just finished a cabinet with red oak raised panel doors. I used an older
Craftsman 1/2 hp cast iron shaper (no, not the aluminum router/shaper they sell
now) and a Freud 5" panel raiser. Had to turn the cutter over and run it above
the table so I made a guard to keep my fingers attached to my hands. The doors
were about 12" X 22" and have arched tops. I did the job in about 4 or 5
passes. This was my first attempt at R/P doors and they came out pretty nice.
The next shaper I buy will have a table recess that will take a 5" cutter.
Either a 1-1/2 or a 3 hp Grizzly. 1/2 hp will do the job but more hp will do
it faster.
Mike
Scott Brownell
Dave,
Is yours "Woodtec" or "Woodtek"? If the latter then try
http://www.woodworkerssupply.com
If the former then maybe a google is in order.
Scott
--
An unkind remark is like a killing frost. No matter how much it warms
up later, the damage remains.
Mark & Juanita
@cs.com says...
I got mine in 2001. If you can't get anything from Woodworkers'
Supply, ping me on-line again and I'll see what I can do. I'll check the
plate for model and serial number, the catalog lists mine as catalog #
933-580 which is the same as #803-274 only with the sliding table. If
yours is a "Woodtek" not "Woodtec", then WWS will probably have the
fence available, I just got a fan cover for my 1995 Woodtek dust
collector.
David Hall
>top.
>> I need a manual (and a fence). Any chance of scanning the manual for me?
>>
>> Dave Hall
>>
>
> I got mine in 2001. If you can't get anything from Woodworkers'
>Supply, ping me on-line again and I'll see what I can do. I'll check the
>plate for model and serial number, the catalog lists mine as catalog #
>933-580 which is the same as #803-274 only with the sliding table. If
>yours is a "Woodtek" not "Woodtec", then WWS will probably have the
>fence available, I just got a fan cover for my 1995 Woodtek dust
>collector.
Yeah. I meant WoodteK... not Woodtec. I sent an email to Woodworkers Supply and
hopefully they will respond. According to my plate this is a 803-646 and it has
a sliding table. Hopefully they will have manuals and parts, but they seem to
change manufacturers in China or Tiawan on a fairly regular basis. Mine was
made in Tiawan according to the plate.
Thanks
Dave Hall
Mark & Juanita
@cs.com says...
... snip
>
> Yeah. I meant WoodteK... not Woodtec. I sent an email to Woodworkers Supply and
> hopefully they will respond. According to my plate this is a 803-646 and it has
> a sliding table. Hopefully they will have manuals and parts, but they seem to
> change manufacturers in China or Tiawan on a fairly regular basis. Mine was
> made in Tiawan according to the plate.
>
> Thanks
>
> Dave Hall
>
Dave,
Did WWS get back to you? If not, I'll try to get the manual
scanned in tonight or tomorrow night.
David Hall
>and
>> hopefully they will respond. According to my plate this is a 803-646 and it
>has
>> a sliding table. Hopefully they will have manuals and parts, but they seem
>to
>> change manufacturers in China or Tiawan on a fairly regular basis. Mine was
>> made in Tiawan according to the plate.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Dave Hall
>>
>
> Dave,
>
> Did WWS get back to you? If not, I'll try to get the manual
>scanned in tonight or tomorrow night.
I just got an email from them this evening asking for my address so that they
can send a manual/parts list. So it looks like I'm in luck. Thanks.
Dave Hall
Mark & Juanita
@cs.com says...
Dave,
Check your e-mail, I had this mostly scanned in before I saw your
reply.
Mark
David Hall
Thanks again for the manual. I finally got the copy from WWW that is
specific to my model. Man, I thought yours was sparse, but this one
almost might as well not exist. This question might or might not be
the same between our models. My shaper has a bolt up through the
spindle to hold the arbors. It has a allen head on it and the
appropriate wrench is missing. What size is yours (assuming yours uses
a bolt way up in the spindle) - this is substantially larger than my
largest allen wrenches.
Dave Hall
Mark & Juanita
ha...@nhsd.k12.pa.us says...
Dave,
Mine has a bolt up through the spindle to hold the spindle on, but
it is not an allen head, it is a hex head, as is the lock nut that snugs
up the spindle (shown as O14 and O26 on pages 22 & 23 in the manual). I
think the size of the hex nut is on the order of 3/4", but I'm not sure.
Sorry I can't be of more help.