MLCS Track Saw - Worth $160?

[DerbyDad03]

The MLCS track saw is currently on sale for $160. I know
it's entry level, but it might be good enough for the limited
amount of sheet goods breakdown that I do.

With the soon-to-be-installed inverter in my van, I could
use it to break down sheet goods in the big box parking
lot instead of using my 18V circular saw.

Any thoughts from the track saw experts? Pros, but more
importantly, cons.

https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/track_saw.html

Thanks!

[Brian Welch]

I am not familiar with this system, but I might question the large number of short sections of track, and the ability to keep them perfectly straight...but that's just me...

[DerbyDad03]

I had the same thought.

[G Ross]

> https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/d sdsmarthtml/pages/track_saw.html
>
> Thanks!
>
I never had a track saw, but I built my own for my "skil" saw. I cut
two pieces of thin plywood or door skin 8 inches wide, One is 4 ft
long, the other 8 ft long. From Lowes I bought two pieces of aluminum
U channel about 1/2 inches deep and wide in 4' and 8' length. These I
fastened 2 inches from the edge of each board using counter-sunk bolts
with the nuts inside the channel, about every foot. I then laid them
on saw horses and ran the skil saw down each one on the wide side and
holding the saw against the aluminum channel.
To cut a marked line I clamp the finished guide with the wide side
against the marked line and clamped the guide to the workpiece using
small C-clamps on the skinny side of the guide, put the saw on the
wide side and saw the cut. Just remember the guide side of the
workpiece is the "saved" side and the other side is the waste piece.
I have used these for years. When not used they hang over the shop
door on nails
through holes drilled in the board.
Total cost much less than for a bought guide.

--
G Ross

[DerbyDad03]

Yes, I have been using all wood versions of that type of guide for years.

Still curious about the advantages of that inexpensive track saw over
some other options. Place and cut - no clamps - is enticing. The short
pieces of track could make it more convenient than even the 4' guide
is some situations.

[Bob D]

I think the tiny motor and 4 1/2" blade will be challenged by anything heavier than 1/2" plywood. I imagine it will cut thicker stock pretty slowly. The smaller blade will be challenged to stay straight when working, even with the track. I think your money would be better spent on a decent full sized circular saw and making your own guide out of wood.

[DerbyDad03]

I have all the full sized circular saws (corded and battery) that I need. I have homemade
wooden guides, clamp on aluminum guides, 6' levels and all sorts of straight edges.

Thank you for your comments on the motor and blade size of the MLCS track saw. Your
material thickness concerns are noted. I am, however, curious as to how the blade would
wander when the saw is contained within the track. What might cause that to happen?

[Bob D]

If the blade binds or has a tendency to drift, it can cause the track to slip sideways on the stock. The track is only clamped at each end and it is not an immovable object. A good track saw or circular saw works well, only if the saw cuts cleanly and straight by itself.

[DerbyDad03]

For what I’ve seen, track saws don’t require clamps. The
friction pads on the bottom of the track hold it place.

What kind of track saw do you have?

[Bob D]

Yes, you can use the track depending on the friction pad alone (no clamps). That works well, if your stock is flat and on a flat stable work table that is big enough to completely support your stock.. I have accidentally knocked the track off position when breaking down a large sheet and leaning over to finish the cut. The vacuum hose or cord might accidentally catch on the edge of the track and deflect it just enough to screw up the cut. I could learn to be more careful. But for me, clamping each end provides additional assurance that the track position does not move.

I have a Festool tracksaw.

Bob

[Leon]

I kind'a am thinking like Bob. This probably is not totally like the
RotoZip that used to be able to cut anything.... ;~)

The amperage is way down there.

With that said, what will the capacity of your inverter be???? My F150
has a 400 watt capacity, and that ain't much. The Festool TS 55 corded
saw requires 1200 watts.

[DerbyDad03]

The box says Peak 2000/Continuous 1000 but I doubt those numbers.
I'd need about 700, so it might work.

I'm not really planning on buying the saw, but maybe when Christmas
comes around and the kids ask "What tool are we getting you this year?" ;-)

I will breaking down some sheet goods soon. I need to flatten out the
rear of my Odyssey. They get less and less flat with each new generation
which makes loading more and more of a pain.

You can't tell from the picture, but that hump where the rear seat belts go
into the floor is almost 2" high.

https://di-uploads-pod2.s3.amazonaws.com/capitalregionhondadealers/uploads/2017/01/2017HOnda-Odyssey-Cargo-Space.jpg

It should look like this when complete.

https://www.odyclub.com/attachments/level-cargo-area-jpg.157649/

There's actually 2 platforms required. One for when the 3rd row is folded
down (99.99% of the time for me) and a second for when the 2nd row
seats are out, which happens more and more these days.

[Leon]

Does the floor actually need to be flat? Could simply lay a couple of
narrow pieces of plywood or 1x4 on each side to serve as a track to
slide sheet goods on/from the front to back?

[DerbyDad03]

It's not about loading sheet goods. It's the coolers, bins, boxes, etc. that are
hard to place because *they* don't sit flat. Everything rocks or sits at an angle
making it hard to stack items.

The reason I have owned minivans (specifically Odyssey's) even long after
the kids moved out is for their cargo space. My 04 was almost perfectly flat
from the tailgate to the back of the front seats. The 06 was not as flat, but
had dips, not humps. Dips aren't that much of a problem.

My 17 has humps and dips and nothing fits easily. I can carry 10' boards but
the big hump doesn't allow them to lie flat. Same for sheet goods. They sit on
the floor at the front of the van, but point towards the sky at the rear. It makes
it difficult to load stuff on top. I made this platform to level the long boards out.
It sits between the front seats, over the base of the center console. It compensates
for the hump near the rear, but it doesn't help with sheet goods.

https://i.imgur.com/gRCgJaG.jpg

The 18's and beyond are even worse because the sliding bases of the center
row seats stay in the vehicle. Those bases (humps) are at least 3" high.

https://blogmedia.dealerfire.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/818/2019/09/MERH-mid2-0917_o.jpg

I like the way the Odyssey's drive, last, tow, etc. It's the floor of the 17 that bothers
me and now that summer is here - and my shoulder is healing up - it's time to flatten
it out. I'm considering making 3 platforms. If I split the rear one from front to back
it'll be easier for me to put in and out by myself, although it's so rare that I need the
rear bench seat. I need to think about that. I like the seamless look of the single large
platform. We'll see.

[k...@notreal.com]

On Wed, 23 Jun 2021 14:01:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

That's what I do even with my truck, except I use 2x4s. I had a
spray-on liner put on when I bought it and it's pretty rough on sheet
goods. It's like 40-grit sandpaper.

I buy a couple of 2x4s every time I transport a sheet. I'll use them
sooner or later anyway. Lately, though, it's not so cheap. I may cut
a couple to length, just to keep in the truck, along with the crate of
bungee cords.

[DerbyDad03]

I can fit 4 x 8 sheets in the back of my Ody with next to nothing to spare
side to side. I protect the interior sides with cardboard and the sheet
goods contact the cardboard as it lies down. It's that tight.

I also use runners to protect the carpet which is protected by custom
cut moving blankets. Belt and suspenders. ;-) Even with all the hauling
I do, my vans are virtually spotless inside and out.

As I responded to Leon, it's more about the unevenness of the floor
than the actual loading/unloading. The runners sit at upward angle
because of the hump. A nice flat platform would solve all manner of
loading problems from sheet goods to bins/boxes. It would look better
than the moving blankets too. ;-)

[k...@notreal.com]

For long (>12') stuff I built a platform out of 2x4s. The only
problem is that it's too heavy to realistically move around. ;-) I
ended up buying one of these. Money well spent.

<https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I1AQRM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1>

[DerbyDad03]

For me, that's another thing that wouldn't get enough use to be worth the
storage space. Looks useful though.

When I need to carry long boards, like these 16' footers, I borrow a friend's
open trailer.

https://i.imgur.com/BJ5KmWG.jpg

When he needs to protect what he's hauling, he borrows my enclosed trailer.

https://i.imgur.com/n02RATT.jpg

It's a good relationship. ;-)

[k...@notreal.com]

On Thu, 24 Jun 2021 11:00:01 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03

I thought you were going to show me a picture of your Oddity.

>It's a good relationship. ;-)

I guess that works!