Thanks in advance for any info
Anthony
Firem...@earthlink.net
This will likely result in a slightl melted spot where the scratch used
to be. I use toothpaste (any brand seems to work) and I have been able
to polish plexiglass and Lexan (polycarbonate) complete clear after
having machined it in a lathe. I also use toothpaste to polish
scratches out of my CDs.
-ms
Remove the "no-junk-mail" from the address to reply.
Anthony <firem...@earthlink.net> wrote in article
<61cf0t$j...@bolivia.earthlink.net>...
Ever used that expensive Micromesh paper?
One _big_ problem with rubbing scratches out of glossy materials like
acrylic is you'll make them wider and deeper at the same time you're
buffing them. You'll leave a few optical flaws if you don't take a
few steps prior. That means leveling. Try 600 and 1500 grit silicon
carbide wet-dry paper (Pep Boys sells both grits) on a soft sanding
block -- pencil erasers work perfectly. Also, if you're practiced with
a cabinet scraper, you can take out deep scratches in no time. Just
joint and hone, no need to burnish in the usual hooked edge. If you
honed the blade to a polished edge, you can skip sanding and go
directly to compound or rouge.
Keith Bohn
Bohn & Bonn Design
Keith's suggestion of 'annealing' the acrylic does work well. It's a bit
tricky, though. I've used Flitz Polish with very good results. A buffing
wheel and red compound works very well, too.
-------------------------------------
John Paquay
Purdue University, Dept. Of Physics
j...@belex.mdn.com
http://www.mdn.com/~belex/
>Does anyone have the word on taking mild scratches and scuff marks out
>of plexiglass... Will automobile type rubbing compound work? Cerium
>oxide? etc????
>
>Thanks in advance for any info
>
>Anthony
>Firem...@earthlink.net
>
Novus Plastic Polish. The stuff is amazing (and no, I don't work there or
even sell the stuff). #3 is the most coarse, #2 is good for general
polishing, and #1 is a like a "wax".
You can probably find it at your local motorcycle shop (good for things
like visors). If not, it can be mail-ordered through several places that
supply parts and supplies to pinball machine collectors like Pinball
Resource or Marco Specialties.
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|Systems Programmer Northern Illinois University |
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To remove the scratches use fine wet and dry paper with water. Finish with
1000 wet & dry. Then finish off with Brasso.
You can actually file Perspex into shapes and finish off as above. I've made
defusers for a photographic flash using this technique.
--
Peter Hermann
Anthony wrote in message <61cf0t$j...@bolivia.earthlink.net>...
>Does anyone have the word on taking mild scratches and scuff marks out
Aircraft windows are plastic. Your local FBO at your local airport
should have stuff made for polishing.
rk
This is the right advice. Micromesh which comes in about 6 grades
between 1500 and 12000 works on anything solid except glass. Ideal for
repolishing scratched metals - even silver plate provided the plating is
thick enough. I have used it on the lathe for about three years but
only recently discovered its almost universal application.
It consists of crystals embedded in latex. If using it on the lathe
care must be taken not to overheat as the latex will melt and transfer
to your piece of wood - and it is "start again time". Use standard
abrasive paper through the grades to 240 or 340 then start with
micromesh 1500 and work through its grades to 12000. It sounds a lot
of work but it is good stuff and progression through the grades is quick
and rewarding. It may seem expensive but it wears well and, if
necessary, can be washed with household detergent.
--
Charles (Joe) Stahelin
Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK
Another item is the plex [perspex] glue ,available from the
manufacturer .With this you can glue together multiple pieces and if
correctly done [not bubbles entrapped] it will look as one solid
piece. mjh
When I repainted my motorcycle tank, I followed up a wet sanding with 600
grit paper with a polishing of Brasso metal polish. That gave me a mirror
finish. I applied the polish, rubbed it around a lot, then let it dry and
rubbed it off. One good coat of wax and it was gorgeous. Within a week
though it got scratched. :-(
On the airplane builders list I'm on, I learned that the "Flame Treating"
of plexi edges may look nice, but it puts all kinds of stresses into the
material and will lead to cracks later on.
--
On the Internet, nobody knows you're a dog... but they can tell right
off the bat if you're an idiot! -- Me
http://www.teleport.com/~mauser/ Gallery Web Page
"Yeah, I've got ADD, wanna make something of.... oooh, cool. Look!"
: Thanks in advance for any info
: Anthony
: Firem...@earthlink.net
On small jobs, I've used jeweler's rouge which worked very well.
--
Michael Courtney, Ph. D.
mic...@amo.mit.edu
>Anthony (firem...@earthlink.net) wrote:
>: Does anyone have the word on taking mild scratches and scuff marks out
>: of plexiglass... Will automobile type rubbing compound work? Cerium
>: oxide? etc????
>: Thanks in advance for any info
I've used Meguires cleaner/wax (automobile wax) to polish out
scratches in the plastic of my instrument panel on my car...
presumably it should work as well on plexi-glass. It has a very fine
abrasive in it... fairly inexpensive too, and you can use the extra on
your car!
Andrew
This may sound crazy but try using toothpaste on minor plexiglass scratches
,inexpensive andily available
Micromesh is a very fine abrasive that comes in about 9 grades and was
designed for use on aircraft canopies. I use it on wood with great
success.
It is made by Micro-Surface Finishing Products Inc, 1217 West Third
Street, Box 818, Wilton, Iowa 52778, USA. Tel: 319-732-3240.
Fax: 319-732-3390.
Available in UK from Craft Supplies, The Mill, Millers Dale, Near
Buxton, Derbyshire, SK17 8SN. Tel: 01298 871636.
http.//www.craft-supplies.co.uk
E-mail: sa...@craft-supplies.co.uk