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Freud FT2000E in table?

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IronHead

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Mar 27, 1994, 12:34:01 PM3/27/94
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In article <1.24509.15...@execnet.com>, kevin....@execnet.com
(Kevin Winslow) writes:

I have the Ryobi RE 600 in a router table dedicated to use with my Incra Jig.
It works fine and I think it is a very good buy-at least if you use 1/2" shank
bits. The Ryobi comes with an adapter for using 1/4" shank bits, but I
measured almost 0.010" runout when using the adapter. I am planning on trying a
different manufacturer's adapter sometime. I only have a few 1/4" bits left,
and I don't use them with my Incra Jig. My adapter could have been a bad case
and replacements are cheap.

Joe Fleming

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Mar 28, 1994, 8:37:20 AM3/28/94
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I missed the original post but am assuming that the question is whether or not
the Freud router works well in a table.

I have the FT2000E and have used it primarily in a router table. I find it
easy to adjust with the micro-adjuster knob, easy to change bits with the
spindle-lock feature and easy to use.

A tip I would offer is to remove the dust shield. It provides no value under
the table and limits wrench access to the collet.

I have one wish - one that may be shared with every router owner that has a
router with a micro-adjust knob: When raising or lowering the bit a great
distance (3/4" or more) it gets tiring cranking the knob under the table. I
am working on a crank to replace the knob when under the table. I believe
this will facilitate large adjustments.

Joe Fleming

Keith

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Mar 28, 1994, 12:45:14 PM3/28/94
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I have my FT200E setup in a router table. It is actually very good in the
table. It has a knob for adjusting the depth in small increments, but this can
be a pain to move large distances. I've found the setup to be very adequate
for my needs. I don't have experience with other routers, so I can't really
compare.

The router is mounted to a 3/8 polycarbonate circle which is recessed into
a piece of 3/4 melamine. Works fine for me.
---

-Keith

David Kosenko

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Mar 29, 1994, 2:51:52 PM3/29/94
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Joe Fleming writes:
|> I have one wish - one that may be shared with every router owner that has a
|> router with a micro-adjust knob: When raising or lowering the bit a great
|> distance (3/4" or more) it gets tiring cranking the knob under the
table. I
|> am working on a crank to replace the knob when under the table. I believe
|> this will facilitate large adjustments.

I picked this tip up from a vendor at a WWing show. If you are using a plunge
router for table-mounted use, remove the plunge springs. Then for larger
adjustments, just unlock the plunge mechanism and push it up, relocking at
the new approx. location. Then turn the adjusting knob (which will now turn
very easily) until it supports the new position. Then unlock and fine tune.
I did this with my Ryobi (the big sucker) and it works great.

Dave
Disclaimer: The opinions expressed in this message are not those of Informix
Software, its partners or lackeys. Anyone who says otherwise is itching for
a fight.
****************************************************************************
"I look back with some satisfaction on what an idiot I was when I was 25,
but when I do that, I'm assuming I'm no longer an idiot." - Andy Rooney

Rick Haver

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Apr 1, 1994, 3:42:25 PM4/1/94
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(Kevin Winslow) wrote:

> Does anyone have any experience with Freud's FT2000E 3-1/4 HP, variable
> speed plunge router? I'm looking for a big router for my router table.
> I've also looked at the Ryobi RE600. These seem to be the best two routers
> for table use.
>
> All comments welcome.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> --Kevin
> ---
> DeLuxe/386 1.25 #6717 Kevin Winslow, Reading, PA

I have one of these in a router table. Works great. I like the soft start
(although in a table it matters not) and I usually slow the thing down for
shaping. The problem with a plunge router in a table is raising the bit
vis-a-vis the table top: to do so you have to push up on the router from
under the table against the very strong springs in the plunge/unplunge
mechanism. This, of course, wants to lift the plate that the router is
suspended on. Unless the router suspension plate is solidly affixed to the
table--I just let it hang in the rabbet milled into the table top
opening--this lifts the whole mechanism out of the table top. The saving
grace with this router is the large knob on the plunge mechanism that
allows you to slowly raise the bit, though this is tedious.

I remember a crank device I used to see in catalogs for adjusting the depth
of bits on plunge routers. This would facilitate cranking the router up
against the springs. Wha' happen' to them?

Rick Haver
ha...@dartmouth.edu

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