DeWalt DW 720 RAS
Stephen Carré
I've got a DeWat DW720 Radial Arm (for those in the US, DeWalt Europe are
still making RASs, undoubtedly not the same as the old ones though).
Anyhow, I'm having great difficulty getting the supplied MDF table to be
parallel with the arm. Since I use the saw a lot to make tenons, this is a
bit of a problem!
I recently spent a good hour adjusting and tightening the various bolts &
such, and got it so on a 15cm wide plank I had a difference of 1mm in cut
depth front to back. This obviously leads to wonk mortice & tenon joints.
Anyone got any good tips on setting the table up properly?
TIA
Frank McVey
It's a bit of mucking about, trying to get a 720 accurate and keeping it
there. What I do for the table is:
1. Remove the MDF table-top, leaving the metal brackets in place on the
legstand.
2. Remove the guard and sawblade.
3. Loosen the motor yoke and rotate the complete motor assembly until the
arbor points vertically downwards and lock it in place.
4. Unlock the radial arm mitre lock and swing the arm and pull the motor
towards you until the tip of the arbor is over one of the table supporting
metal brackets, near to the front end of the bracket.
5. Lower the complete arm until the tip of the arbor just touches the end
of the bracket.
6. Swing the arm and shove the motor assembly away from you so that the
tip of the arbor is now directly above the rear of the same bracket.
7. Slacken the nut in the slotted hole which holds this end of the metal
bracket to the legstand and adjust the rear of the bracket until it also
touches the arbor tip.
8. Repeat 4-7 with the other metal bracket.
9. Recheck in all 4 positions, readjusting if needed.
This should have put the ends of the metal brackets all in the same plane,
and that plane should be exactly parallel to the plane that the arm swings
in. Now, assuming your table is truly flat, it should also be parallel to
that plane when you reinstall it.
Naturally, you can do the procedure with the mdf table in place, but I find
it easier to get it out of the way.
Having said all that, you'll find it also helps to ditch the OEM table - and
its silly extension wings - and substitute for a much thicker single piece
of MDF or blockboard. Well, 2 pieces, if you count the bit behind the fence.
HTH
Frank
"Stephen Carré" <stephe...@ntlworld.com.nospam> wrote in message
news:Yexsa.2773$qK6...@newsfep1-gui.server.ntli.net...
Rumpty
still making RASs, undoubtedly not the same as the old ones though
From what I've seen in the catalogs, the Euro model DeWalt RAS appears to be
a duplicate of the low end Delta RAS here in the US.
--
Rumpty
Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
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"Stephen Carré" <stephe...@ntlworld.com.nospam> wrote in message
news:Yexsa.2773$qK6...@newsfep1-gui.server.ntli.net...
David Wittenberg
It has complete instructions on how to get everything aligned. You'll also find
references to "Fine Tuning your Radial Arm Saw", which goes into a bit more detail.
In article <PQPsa.359$5h4....@nnrp1.ptd.net>,
"Rumpty" <rum...@nottoomuchspam.com> writes:
|>
|> Radial Arm Saw Forum: http://forums.delphiforums.com/woodbutcher/start
|>
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|>
|>
|> "Stephen Carré" <stephe...@ntlworld.com.nospam> wrote in message
|> news:Yexsa.2773$qK6...@newsfep1-gui.server.ntli.net...
|> > Folks,
|> >
|> > I've got a DeWat DW720 Radial Arm (for those in the US, DeWalt Europe are
|> > still making RASs, undoubtedly not the same as the old ones though).
|> > Anyhow, I'm having great difficulty getting the supplied MDF table to be
|> > parallel with the arm. Since I use the saw a lot to make tenons, this is
|> a
|> > bit of a problem!
--
--David Wittenberg
d...@cs.brandeis.edu
