Tenoning jigs for use with unifence?
Eric Smith
>
> Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>
> >I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
> >showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
> >the fence instead of in the miter slots.
>
> >My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
> >Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
> >so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
> >the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
I saw some plans in AW Spring 95 Woodworking Techniques, Tips & Shortcuts
book about a tenoning jig made of wood that just rested against the
fence, like a board you might be ripping. It seems to me that if you put
a flat, square and relatively long base the tenoning jig could just ride
along the fence. I saw the plans after just purchasing the $90 Delta
tenoning jig. If I were going to build one, I think I would figure some
way of weighting the base so it would be stable enough, depends what you
use it for. Good luck,
Eric Smith
Eric...@Coastalnet.com
Alex Neudeck
I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
the fence instead of in the miter slots.
My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
Any advice?
-Alex Neudeck
a...@fc.hp.com
HEARTBREAK KID
>Any advice?
> -Alex Neudeck
Yep. Buy a Biesemeyer and eliminate the one thing that keeps the
Unifence from being as versatile the other fences it competes with in
the aftermarket business. They're both good fences for ripping stock
but one pretty much stops there and the other is related to the
Energizer bunny....going and going and......
Delta, by the way, seems to be quite good at showing things that can't
be used with their tools....like the guy at Delta's home office who
told me that the problem I had with having 2 chucks and spindle
assemblies fall apart on my new 16.5" drill press in a month was
because they weren't designed to take the stress of the side force of
drum sanders....while Delta makes a drum sander attachment for their
drill presses. Some guy emailed me a while back and questioned
that... I told him that I dialed Delta's 800 number for parts and I
ASSUMED that the guy on the other end worked for Delta...if he didn't,
I could be wrong. Tthe 3rd chuck and spindle assembly just showed up
magically, I guess.
HBK
*******************************************************************************
Who's walked it like he talked it for more than 40 years. Might not always
have been the right path but his footprints are in sawdust, not printer's ink.
Facts similarly accumulated welcome whether in agreement or not.....
He doesn't claim to know it all 'cause he's not thru walking yet.
*********************************************************************************
Mark Kepke
KID) wrote:
> Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>
>
> >I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
> >showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
> >the fence instead of in the miter slots.
>
> >My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
> >Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
> >so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
> >the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
>
> >Any advice?
>
> > -Alex Neudeck
> Yep. Buy a Biesemeyer and eliminate the one thing that keeps the
> Unifence from being as versatile the other fences it competes with in
> the aftermarket business. They're both good fences for ripping stock
> but one pretty much stops there and the other is related to the
> Energizer bunny....going and going and......
Hmm..lousy advice for once, HBK. Spend $250 to make an "inexpensive"
tenoning jig ? The original poster would be much better off to spend the
$70 or so on Delta's mitre slot tenoning jig.
To answer the orignal poster's question, if I was forced to make one to
ride on the Unifence, the critical component would be a block of wood with
a slot in it. This would engage the lip at the top of the extrusion and
ride in the concave cross-section of the fence.
Personally, I'd make an inexpensive jig that rides in the mitre slot -
I've seen several in books and magazines.
--
-Mark
My opinions, etc.
Hans Beernink
<snipped>
: My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
: Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
: so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
: the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
turn the fence the "long way" so that there is a t-slot on the top. Then
make your jig to fit the t-slot.
--
_____________________________________________________________________________
"The worst monotonous drone coming from a lectern or the most eye-splitting
textbook written in turgid English is nothing in comparison to the
psychological Sahara that starts right in your bedroom and spurns the
horizon."
-Joseph Brodsky, from "In praise of Boredom"
delivered as a commencement address at Dartmouth College.
_____________________________________________________________________________
Hans T.H. Beernink, Department of Biochemistry, University of Vermont
hbee...@protein.med.uvm.edu
http://moose.uvm.edu/~hbeernin/
FAX (802)862-8229
Tel.(802)656-8244
Carl Muhlhausen LZ 1B-115L x3052
HEARTBREAK KID <h...@shivasys.com> wrote:
>Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>
>
>>I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
>>showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
>>the fence instead of in the miter slots.
>
>>Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
>>so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
>>the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
>
>
>> -Alex Neudeck
>Yep. Buy a Biesemeyer and eliminate the one thing that keeps the
>Unifence from being as versatile the other fences it competes with in
>the aftermarket business. They're both good fences for ripping stock
>but one pretty much stops there and the other is related to the
>Energizer bunny....going and going and......
I wonder if the people that bash the Unifence have actually used
one for any length of time.
It's very easy to attach jigs, auxillary fences, etc to the aluminum
fence used in the high position.
I built a push block out of 1/2" plywood that slides over the narrow
rail. It's very secure and steady. When I had a few tenons to cut,
I clamped the stock to the push block and *voila* a tenoning jig.
If I had a lot of tenons to cut, I'd probably build a separate
jig to ride on the fence.
There's a nice table saw book by (I think) RJ Christoforo (??), that
Paul Houtz recommended to me (thanks gph), with every jig under the
sun in it, most designed for the Unifence.
Carl
--
Carl W. Muhlhausen led...@elmo.lz.att.com
Rm. 1B-115L (908)-576-3052
AT&T Bell Laboratories
307 Middletown-Lincroft Rd.
Lincroft, NJ 07738
HEARTBREAK KID
>In article <4df178$p...@news.paonline.com>, h...@shivasys.com (HEARTBREAK
>KID) wrote:
>> Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> >I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
>> >showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
>> >the fence instead of in the miter slots.
>>
>> >My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
>> >Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
>> >so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
>> >the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
>>
>> >Any advice?
>>
>> > -Alex Neudeck
>> Yep. Buy a Biesemeyer and eliminate the one thing that keeps the
>> Unifence from being as versatile the other fences it competes with in
>> the aftermarket business. They're both good fences for ripping stock
>> but one pretty much stops there and the other is related to the
>> Energizer bunny....going and going and......
>Hmm..lousy advice for once, HBK. Spend $250 to make an "inexpensive"
>tenoning jig ? The original poster would be much better off to spend the
>$70 or so on Delta's mitre slot tenoning jig.
>To answer the orignal poster's question, if I was forced to make one to
>ride on the Unifence, the critical component would be a block of wood with
>a slot in it. This would engage the lip at the top of the extrusion and
>ride in the concave cross-section of the fence.
>Personally, I'd make an inexpensive jig that rides in the mitre slot -
>I've seen several in books and magazines.
>--
>-Mark
>My opinions, etc.
This won't help anybody who doesn't own a Biesemeyer fence but here's
how to make a vertical fence jig that'll cut tenons and a whole bunch
more stuff from the same unit. Cost? About $3.00 worth of scrap
plywood and hardwood. Time to build? Depends on how accurately you
cut the parts, clamp and glue/screw them together. Usually, about 2
hours. I've used this thing for close to 6 years on a regular basis.
Is self indexing at 90 degrees, snaps on, snap off. Reverses to use
as a "scrap fence" for end cuts on a dado blade when making rabbets.
Might have other uses as all I use it for is tenons and rabbets.
Works on any thickness and at any angle you can tilt a miter guage.
1. Cut and plane a piece of real stable hardwood such as walnut or
hard maple EXACTLY as thick as the melamine sides rise above each side
of the steel center of the Biesemeyer frame.
2. Rip it to fit precisely but not a "cram it in" fit....just a
smooth, no wiggle drop. Mine is about 24" long. Can be as long as
the fence if you like.
3. Rip a piece of 3/4" stock EXACTLy the width of the Biesemeyer
fence, including the melamine covered sides. Same length as in step
2.
4. Rip another piece of 3/4" plywood (preferably Baltic birch but any
good, straight, veneer or MDF core type will do) that's 15" wide X as
long as the other wooden pieces.
5. Put the thin piece in the slot between the melamine runners.
6. Glue the exactly the right width piece on top of it. Do not clamp,
just let it float for a second.
7. Glue edge both sides of this (now) top piece and place the plywood
vertically against the inside (Toward the blade) edge and the shorter
piece against the outside of the fence to form an "h".
7. Use a pair of 24" carptenter's squares as braces to make sure the
plywood is perfectly square with the sawtable. Clamp the hell out of
everything so it stays that way until the glue dries.
8. Remove the clamps and drill holes to run long screws thru
everything, countersinking them flush. (if you trust glue like I do,
jsut kill a half hour and drill & screw as you remove the clamps one
at a time).
9. Make 3 or 4 Triangle shaped wedges to drill and glue/screw on top
of the thing to hold the plywood square with everything else. (if you
can't figure out where they go, you don't need a saw in the first
place).
10. using a real accurate dado blade or a 3/4" router bit, make a
3/8" deep miter guage slot in the plywood 10" above the end of the
"h" that lays on the table. Unless you own an old Rockwell or generic
miter guage that's not T-slot, you'll have to buy or make one. That's
it. Mine, after a half dozen years, still snaps on either way
(plywood side toward blade or lower side for rabbet cuts) and checks
true 90 degrees with an engineer's square.
Just one of 18 or so reasons why I like the square, no frills,
Biesemeyer fence better than the Unifence. They'll BOTH rip stock
accurately and, at least compared to the Unifences I use elsewhere,
they both have accurate measurements from the blade.
HBK
4.
Mzn blu
fence, works fine. Once you get below the lip it's flat. The trick
(which requires trial and error) is to get the jig to slide easily but not
sloppily.
Pete from VA
Fred Walker
>I wonder if the people that bash the Unifence have actually used
>one for any length of time.
>It's very easy to attach jigs, auxillary fences, etc to the aluminum
>fence used in the high position.
>I built a push block out of 1/2" plywood that slides over the narrow
>rail. It's very secure and steady. When I had a few tenons to cut,
>I clamped the stock to the push block and *voila* a tenoning jig.
>If I had a lot of tenons to cut, I'd probably build a separate
>jig to ride on the fence.
Boy, do I agree with this statement. I have used a unifence attached to my
three month old Unisaw 8^) and have used the Beastmaster and several
knock-offs. Love the Unifence. I like the ability to use it as a stop
block in conjunction with the miter guage, dead-on accuracy, ease of
adjustment, etc. Making jigs for the fence is just not that tough. Fit an
auxiliary board that is slightly higher (taller) to the unifence and you can
create any type of jig to ride on the top.
It's an accurate, flexible fence. It's not the _same_ as other after market
fences, but IMHO, it is at least the equivalent. Because of its unusual
configuration, it takes a lot of flak. I can understand that some users may
not like its differences; I do.
Not affiliated with Delta, just.....etc, etc, etc.
Mark Kepke
> >> Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
<snip>
> >> >My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
> >> >Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
> >> >so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
> >> >the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
<snip>
Then, in article <4djcee$a...@news.paonline.com>, h...@shivasys.com
(HEARTBREAK KID) wrote:
> This won't help anybody who doesn't own a Biesemeyer fence but here's
<snipped - detailed plans for building a fence-riding tenoning jig>
Folks - when you're no longer answering the original poster's question,
it's time to change the subject line.
Greg Wells
>Alex Neudeck <a...@fc.hp.com> wrote:
>>I was looking through Delta's book on tablesaw techniques and they
>>showed plans for several inexpensive tenoning jigs which ride over
>>the fence instead of in the miter slots.
>>My question is: How do you build similar jigs if you have the
>>Delta Unifence? The standard fence for Delta equipment is rectangular
>>so a jig can be built which wraps over the top and both sides of
>>the fence. The unifence is an odd shaped piece of extruded aluminum.
>>Any advice?
>> -Alex Neudeck
>Yep. Buy a Biesemeyer and eliminate the one thing that keeps the
>Unifence from being as versatile the other fences it competes with in
>the aftermarket business. They're both good fences for ripping stock
>but one pretty much stops there and the other is related to the
>Energizer bunny....going and going and......
I totally disagree! I made a tenon jig that rides the fence nicely in
less than 1 hours' time. Instead of constructing the jig to sit on top
of the fence, cut a piece of hardwood to 'trap' the upper lip of the
extruded aluminum fence. I'll make a crude attempt of ASCII art:
jig
_____
| |
| | <------attach here
| |
| | _______
| | | |____|
| | | |
| | | |
| | | | <-- fence
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
_______________________________________________
//////////////////table//////////////////////////////////|
_______________________________________________|
Cut a piece of hardwood the length of the jig (plus a couple
of extra inches to make it easier to thread it onto the fence)
Cut it so the profile looks like the following:
_________
| |
| |
| |<--- Drill hole here to attach to jig
| |
| ___ |
___| |
| |
| |
|_______ |
I hope this makes sense and isn't completely garbled when
you receive it. I believe I saw this in a how-to video some years
back. Anyway, it's worked great for me with the added advantage that
the jig is prevented from 'riding up'. Personnally, I haven't found
anything that I couldn't do with a Unifence that can be done with any
other aftermarket fences.