Removal of old window putty???
Dee Dee
I have tried a chisel and have only mannaged to damage the wood frame
of the window.
Is there an easy solution?
Please reply: paul...@csolve.net
mattg
use a heat gun, (essentially a hi-temp hair dryer)
or --very-- carefully with a propane torch. either one
will get the glass hot enough to crack it, so be careful.
also, try not to breathe the vapors.
be patient, and let the heat source do the work.
good luck
mattg
Dee Dee wrote in message <38296ad5...@news.csolve.net>...
BOB OSWIN
that prevents this.
It is called a putty chaser 1-800-267-8767
bob oswin
BOB OSWIN
Michael Edelman
BOB OSWIN wrote:
>
> I believe that Lee Valley Tools has an attachment for the electric drill
> that prevents this.
> It is called a putty chaser 1-800-267-8767
Not Leigh Valley, but Prazi USA. See www.praziusa.com or the Tool Crib
catalog.
Mark Kepke
knife as a heat shield for the glass.
-Mark
mattg wrote:
>
> hello-
>
> use a heat gun, (essentially a hi-temp hair dryer)
> or --very-- carefully with a propane torch. either one
> will get the glass hot enough to crack it, so be careful.
> also, try not to breathe the vapors.
>
> be patient, and let the heat source do the work.
>
> good luck
>
> mattg
>
PCP Brassard
Lee Valley offers the putty chaser in its catalog. From the looks of it it
is hte same tool.
Pierre Brassard.
Michael Edelman a écrit dans le message <38299690...@mich.com>...
John Barry
There are special-purpose heaters made for removing putty. Heating coils
inside relatively skinny blocks of soapstone oriented in an "L". So you can
heat the putty and not shatter the glass nor remove sash paint.
HTH,
John
Dee Dee <plat...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:38296ad5...@news.csolve.net...
ja...@salsgiver.com
wrote:
>I am having a lot of trouble removing some rock-hard window putty.
>I have tried a chisel and have only mannaged to damage the wood frame
>of the window.
>Is there an easy solution?
>Please reply: paul...@csolve.net
I've seen a tool called "Prazi " putty chaser advertised in "Tool Crib
of the North catalog that mounts in a drill that supposedly does this
job. I have never use tis tool , so I can't tell you if it works.
I have done many divided lite windows with a propane torch used to
soften the rock hard putty. This proceedure is very tedious at best. I
used a wide blade drywall joint knife, held against the glass to
protect it from the heat of the torch. If you keep the flame low, and
move cautiously , this will get the job done.
After softening the putty this way, you have to putty knife, scraper
it out in short order, because it will re-harden.Good luck
STU4090
stu
WoodWreckr
>of the North catalog that mounts in a drill that supposedly does this
>job. I have never use tis tool , so I can't tell you if it works.
It does.... IF you warm the old rock-hard putty with a heat gun first.
It will not cut that petrified glazing unless it is softened first
Frank
and putty knife or a hot air gun. Never tried it myself so I cant
verify it.
>Lee valley tools sells a putty chaser that attaches to and electric drill.
>1-800-267-8767
>
>bob oswin
>
>Dee Dee wrote in message <38296ad5...@news.csolve.net>...
steve bodner
dryer or a paint-remover hot air gun - forget which. Be careful. I no longer
use either.
I now laboriously dig it out with putty knives and similar. Seems to take
about 30 hard minutes per sash.
JD
*** (most important) you need to make a heat shield to protect the glass
(all you want to heat up is the putty). I just used a scrap of pine, and
planed one side at an angle so that it tapered to about 1/4" thick (you
could just use some thin plywood, I guess). Put the heat shield over the
glass, and slide it right up to the putty (this is why you need a thin
edge). If you don't use the heat shield, the glass will get really hot where
the heat gun is blowing on it, but stay cool everywhere else, and will
crack.
*** all that heating up the putty will do is make it soft again - you
still need a putty knife to scrape it off the frame.....
*** there will be some putty left stuck to the glass. A long soak
(overnight) on some good detergent (laundry soap, or whatever you use to
wash your hands after working on your car) will make it soft and easy to
remove, and is a lot easier than the scraper....
*** there should be a thin layer of putty *under* the glass. Make sure
you remove it too (use the heat gun).
*** its a lot easier to re-apply the new putty if you prime the wood
first, but let the primer dry completely (3 days for outdoor oil primer)
*** when its time to re-putty, start by laying 1/8 inch bed of putty,
then lay the glass in. light pressure should make a good seal. You can fill
any not-sealed places by forcing putty under the glass from the other side
with the putty knife.
*** when you put in the glasiers points, *don't push down on the glass*.
The glass should be sitting on the putty bed, and the points should be
pressed into the frame without "sqaushing" the glass. If you push down on
the glass, all your doing is introducing stresses - might result in a sudden
pop some cold night, and a broken window.....
*** when you lay the outside putty, the goal is to get a smooth surface
that completely fills the corner. It should go all the way to the top of the
molding, and when you look through the window from the other side, you
should see just the thinnest edge of the putty. It should seal well to botht
he glass and wood (no cracks or gaps). Corners are a pain. Practice makes
them a little easier.......
*** if your having problems getting hte putty to behave, try holding it
in your hand for a coupoe of minutes - it will get softer and more sticky.
If its too sticky, try putting it in the frisge fro few minutes....
good luck
--JD
steve bodner <sbo...@ex-pressnet.com> wrote in message
news:3834A14F...@ex-pressnet.com...
BeeCrofter
easy to knock the putty out glass and all in about 2 minutes by placing the
sash putty side down on the bench and knocking the glass out with the putty.
1/2 hours labor to save 3.50$ worth of glass just seems foolish.
Tom
There is an extra Bee in the Email address after the AOL.com
John Huffman
As a veteran restorer of old houses, I have often knocked out glass
(unintentionally) and still have the problem of rock hard putty to
remove. I use a heatgun. It is slow and hot and loves to crack glass
after you've been doing this for a few hours and forget to concentrate.
I would love to hear of anyone who has used the 'putty chaser' because
getting down to fresh wood is still quite a chore without a lot of time
invested and without gouging or fracturing delicate windows.
Ross.J...@loungebythelake.net
I've switched to using a multi tool with oscillating saw blades. With a little care this is a little easier and quicker, but patience is the key word whatever the method.
whit3rd
> use a heat gun, (essentially a hi-temp hair dryer)
> or --very-- carefully with a propane torch. either one
> will get the glass hot enough to crack it, so be careful.
> also, try not to breathe the vapors.
>
> be patient, and let the heat source do the work.
the putty, that may have to be pried out of the wood.
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
>>>I have the problem with some old double hung sash windows.
>>>I tried the heat gun method with some success but still managed
>>> to crack a few panes not from excessive heat but from pressure
>>>applied scraping the putty out. I found that the glass was not
>>>With a little care this is a little easier and quicker, but patience
>>> is the key word whatever the method.
>
>> or --very-- carefully with a propane torch. either one
>> will get the glass hot enough to crack it, so be careful.
>> also, try not to breathe the vapors.
>> be patient, and let the heat source do the work.
>
>Be aware, too, there are probably glaziers' points (little metal fasteners) under
>the putty, that may have to be pried out of the wood.
http://www.greenstreamenvironmental.ca/blog/2012/01/asbestos-in-your-windows/
John T.
bnw...@gmail.com
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
mess with it. <especially using the multi-tool>
Also - a responsible worker will not only protect himself with
properly rated respirator - but do his utmost to prevent the
microscopic fibres from dispersing into the room and vents & such.
John T.
k...@notreal.com
J. Clarke
4ax.com>, hub...@ccanoemail.ca says...
it as a hazmat, you can't just throw it in the
trash.
bnw...@gmail.com
hub...@ccanoemail.ca
>> >> Also, old window caulk can contain asbestos
>> >> http://www.greenstreamenvironmental.ca/blog/2012/01/asbestos-in-your-windows/
>> >> John T.
>>
>> >
>> >My understanding is that asbestos is relatively safe to work with
>> > in a non-friable (not a dust) state. Particulate masks are always a good idea,
>> > as the paint may be lead based as well...
>>
>>
>> Badly deteriorated putty or caulk is friable - when you start to
>> mess with it. <especially using the multi-tool>
>> Also - a responsible worker will not only protect himself with
>> properly rated respirator - but do his utmost to prevent the
>> microscopic fibres from dispersing into the room and vents & such.
>> John T.
>been more clear I was basing my comments as a DIYer working within
>best left to pros that specialize in this field...cost can be prohibitive...
>
Then, he can make his-version of an intelligent decision -
which, as we all know - will be to ignore all safety precautions
completely.
Asbestos in the home is don't ask / don't test / don't tell
for most homeowners, and, unfortunately many contractors.
John T.
dpb
any that isn't loose...don't _make_ work for work's sake...
--