Thompson's Water Seal
notbob
nb
Leon
"notbob" <not...@nothome.com> wrote in message
news:fa1im.138921$0e4....@newsfe19.iad...
> Is it any good, or just hype.
>
> nb
Only use it on your "Deck"
SonomaProducts.com
I just saw yesterday a 3 year old set of Adirondack chairs that have
been out in the sun and rain all the time since I sold them. I made
them from Pine. They were stained with a brownish Thompsons. The stain
was now blotchy but the wood was in fine condition, as good as new
really. I have one chair from the same batch that I kept, with no
finish and left it outside also. I had to add wood screws for the
failing staples this year as the wood is deteriorating, it has turned
black and looks like it will last another few years before it fails.
David Nebenzahl
> Is it any good, or just hype.
It does work, if that's what you're asking; it will seal wood.
However, there may be better stuff out there. A painter I trust told me
he uses Armstrong's deck sealer instead (the "natural" color, not clear,
he insisted).
--
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
Luigi Zanasi
IME, hype. Used on Greenhouse windows. Did not last a year.
Luigi
Ed Pawlowski
>
> nb
Crap. Get Penofin oil.
mac davis
>Is it any good, or just hype.
>
>nb
Depends on your use, like anything else...
I used it once when the walls of a house had old wallpaper paste on them and
knew the paste would bleed through the latex..
Didn't bring any Bullseye primer so used TWS instead and the latex covered in
one coat without bleed through..
I've also used it to soak wood parts for RV accessories and it seems to work
well..
mac
Please remove splinters before emailing
Roy
>Is it any good, or just hype.
>
>nb
I don't know how well it works on wood, but it is a terrific water proofer on canvas. Fifteen or
more years ago I needed a ground cloth for a diamond shelter I sometimes use in primitive camping.
I used a 5x9 foot piece of untreated heavy canvas. I washed the canvas to remove any sizing, then
hung it from a line and gave it a coat of Thompsons once a day for a week or two. Don't remember
the exact number. At least 6 coats, but no more than 10. After drying for a few days, I rubbed it
down to soften it.
Thing smelled nasty for about a year. Not solvent, just a very unpleasant odor I assumed was from
the Thompsons. About the time it quit stinking, it also became relatively flexible and non-sticky,
even on hot days. It was also waterproof as a rubber pond liner.
I still use it on a few campouts a year. It is still waterproof. I'd hate to see it catch fire.
All that wax burning could generate more excitement than would be proper for a refined gentleman of
my age, specially if I was sleeping on it at the time.
Regards,
Roy
RonB
If you are talking about the square 4 or 5 quart can that sells in the
$20-25 range it is a 2 year solution at best. I used it on the deck
of a previous house for a few years. then we built a fence and
decided to go to something different. We put Olympic premium on both
about three years ago. Sold the house but had a chance to see it a
couple of weeks ago and the fence looks great. Costs more but well
worth it.
RonB
Andrew Barss
: Is it any good, or just hype.
It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
-- Andy Barss
RonB
I believe I should have said Olympic "Maximum". You can get the
Olympic products in a light tint or a full stain. We used the tint
which lets grain definition get through better. A neighbor used the
stain version and IMO it come up looking kind of murky.
Ron
David Nebenzahl
> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
> : Is it any good, or just hype.
>
> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
So what do you suggest using?
Robatoy
I have used, with great success, Flood's Penetrol. I know, I know it
is supposed to be an additive, but what it is, is super clean BLO and
protects wood like nothing else I have seen. So, if one doesn't need
to do much, it is great stuff. For a big deck, it will be pricey.
David Nebenzahl
> On Aug 17, 2:42 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
>
>> On 8/17/2009 9:23 AM Andrew Barss spake thus:
>>
>>> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
>>> : Is it any good, or just hype.
>>
>>> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
>>
>> So what do you suggest using?
>
> I have used, with great success, Flood's Penetrol. I know, I know it
> is supposed to be an additive, but what it is, is super clean BLO and
> protects wood like nothing else I have seen. So, if one doesn't need
> to do much, it is great stuff. For a big deck, it will be pricey.
1. You're in the UK, aren't you?
2. What' "BLO"?
FrozenNorth
> On 8/17/2009 11:47 AM Robatoy spake thus:
>
>> On Aug 17, 2:42 pm, David Nebenzahl <nob...@but.us.chickens> wrote:
> >
>>> On 8/17/2009 9:23 AM Andrew Barss spake thus:
>>>
>>>> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
>>>> : Is it any good, or just hype.
>>>
>>>> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
>>>
>>> So what do you suggest using?
>>
>> I have used, with great success, Flood's Penetrol. I know, I know it
>> is supposed to be an additive, but what it is, is super clean BLO and
>> protects wood like nothing else I have seen. So, if one doesn't need
>> to do much, it is great stuff. For a big deck, it will be pricey.
>
> 1. You're in the UK, aren't you?
Is Canada part of the UK?
>
> 2. What' "BLO"?
>
Cocaine?
or
Boiled Linseed Oil?
Which would you put on a deck?
>
--
Froz...
PDQ
"FrozenNorth" <frozenn...@gm.nospam.ail.com> wrote in message news:C0iim.556349$jp1.2...@en-nntp-06.dc1.easynews.com...
NO! NO!!
It is not BLO it is BLOW and you use the deck to cut it 52 ways. BEG
P D Q
notbob
> Cocaine?
>
> or
>
> Boiled Linseed Oil?
>
> Which would you put on a deck?
The former. I could find an actual use for the BLO.
nb
Mark & Juanita
Have you had direct experience with it Andy? I suspect that the Arizona
sun would beat the heck out of an inferior product. Do you have any
recommendations that do stand up fairly well out here?
--
There is never a situation where having more rounds is a disadvantage
Rob Leatham
Andrew Barss
: On 8/17/2009 9:23 AM Andrew Barss spake thus:
:> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
:> : Is it any good, or just hype.
:>
:> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
: So what do you suggest using?
Pretty much anything else. Cabot makes a very good line of
products (cleaners, sealers) for exterior wood. I've alo heard good
things about Olympic stain/sealer.
The problem with Thompson's is that it's just a little bit of paraffin
wax, dissolved in a whole lot of solvent (kerosene, I think).
When it first goes on, the wax and oily solvent residue will indeed
repel water (hence the Thompson's ad image of water beads on wood).
But it only lasts for a few months, and then it's gone. And it provides
zero UV protection, so the wood will gray independent of
the short-term water repulsion.
Thompson's is the wood protection equivalent of those guys who
come by your house, give you a great deal on redoing an asphalt
driveway, and it looks great for two months until the thin layer
wears off.
They do have excellent marketing skills, though.
-- Andy Barss
Larry Blanchard
> Cabot makes a very good line of products (cleaners, sealers) for
> exterior wood. I've alo heard good things about Olympic stain/sealer.
I've had pretty good luck with Watco's Outdoor Oil. Lasts 3-4 years on a
sunny surface and recoating is quick and easy. It doesn't cover nearly
as many square feet as the can claims it does, but that's common to just
about all of the sealers.
It does have UV and mildew inhibitors.
--
Intelligence is an experiment that failed - G. B. Shaw
MikeWhy
news:h6dikv$rbt$1...@onion.ccit.arizona.edu...
> Pretty much anything else. Cabot makes a very good line of
> products (cleaners, sealers) for exterior wood. I've alo heard good
> things about Olympic stain/sealer.
One coat? Or two?
Phisherman
>Is it any good, or just hype.
>
>nb
No good, but better than nothing at all. A semi-transparent Cabot
Decking stain will protect wood for a long time, for me about 3-5
years.
Andrew Barss
: Andrew Barss wrote:
:> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
:> : Is it any good, or just hype.
:>
:> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
:>
:>
:> -- Andy Barss
: Have you had direct experience with it Andy?
A bit, and I was so surprised at the result I then did some checking and
found the few-month experience was not uncommon. In the Northeast
20 years ago, it was, as far as I know, the only stuff around, which is
why I bought it when I came here.
I suspect that the Arizona
: sun would beat the heck out of an inferior product. Do you have any
: recommendations that do stand up fairly well out here?
I have a small amount of exposed wood on our guesthouse, and will be
trying Cabot's products when it cools off (and when I get the ithen
remodel done, which is gonna be a while -- found a disconnected air duct
in the attic, which explains the huge electrical bills!). I'll let you
know how it works out. One project for the winter is a screened-in
outside porch/sitting area/pagoda, and I want to find a decent
wood protectant before doing that. I was actually planning to ask you for
a reccomendation!
I did have a strangely terrific experience with spar varnish. I did
two exterior doors, one facing west (behind a security door), and one
facing south, in direct sun, in around 1996. Until 2 years ago, they
looked absolutely perfect. The screened westward one still looks great,
but the south one is peeling and so forth. But 10-11 years in bright sun
is pretty good!
-- Andy BArss
Lew Hodgett
"Andrew Barss" wrote:
> I suspect that the Arizona
> : sun would beat the heck out of an inferior product. Do you have
> any
> : recommendations that do stand up fairly well out here?
SFWIW:
Epifanes two (2) part poly is the gold standard for bright work on
boats, especially in the Caribbean which I would expect to be worse
than Arizona desert since you have the sun's reflected rays off the
water as well as direct sunlight.
Have fun.
Lew
Zz Yzx
But what if my deck is REALLY big?
-Zz
Mark & Juanita
> Mark & Juanita <nos...@hadenough.com> wrote:
> : Andrew Barss wrote:
>
> :> notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
> :> : Is it any good, or just hype.
> :>
> :> It's about the worst stuff on the market. A waste of money and time.
> :>
> :>
> :> -- Andy Barss
>
> : Have you had direct experience with it Andy?
>
> A bit, and I was so surprised at the result I then did some checking and
> found the few-month experience was not uncommon. In the Northeast
> 20 years ago, it was, as far as I know, the only stuff around, which is
> why I bought it when I came here.
>
>
> I suspect that the Arizona
> : sun would beat the heck out of an inferior product. Do you have any
> : recommendations that do stand up fairly well out here?
>
> I have a small amount of exposed wood on our guesthouse, and will be
> trying Cabot's products when it cools off (and when I get the ithen
> remodel done, which is gonna be a while -- found a disconnected air duct
> in the attic, which explains the huge electrical bills!).
Ouch!
> I'll let you
> know how it works out. One project for the winter is a screened-in
> outside porch/sitting area/pagoda, and I want to find a decent
> wood protectant before doing that. I was actually planning to ask you for
> a reccomendation!
>
I really don't have much with exposed wood. The shop is composite siding.
If you are looking for paint, the Dunn Edwards paint we used looks like a
winner, but it's only been two summers since it was put on.
>
> I did have a strangely terrific experience with spar varnish. I did
> two exterior doors, one facing west (behind a security door), and one
> facing south, in direct sun, in around 1996. Until 2 years ago, they
> looked absolutely perfect. The screened westward one still looks great,
> but the south one is peeling and so forth. But 10-11 years in bright sun
> is pretty good!
Thanks -- that's helpful, I've got some doors that need to be re-finished.
The kid was supposed to scrape them this summer; I think he got 1/2 way
done with one of them, so will work that when it cools off. If we don't
paint them, will look at using spar.
>
> -- Andy BArss
David Nebenzahl
> On Aug 16, 10:56 pm, RonB <rnrbro...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> On Aug 16, 7:06 pm, notbob <not...@nothome.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Is it any good, or just hype.
>>
>> If you are talking about the square 4 or 5 quart can that sells in the
>> $20-25 range it is a 2 year solution at best. I used it on the deck
>> of a previous house for a few years. then we built a fence and
>> decided to go to something different. We put Olympic premium on both
>> about three years ago. Sold the house but had a chance to see it a
>> couple of weeks ago and the fence looks great. Costs more but well
>> worth it.
>
> I believe I should have said Olympic "Maximum". You can get the
> Olympic products in a light tint or a full stain. We used the tint
> which lets grain definition get through better. A neighbor used the
> stain version and IMO it come up looking kind of murky.
Well, guess what? I've got a deck to seal in a couple days. Went to
local hardware store (Orchard Supply) where I saw some Olympic clear
sealer (not stain) in a gallon paint can, not the rectangular cans
solvents and stuff come in. It looks pretty good and I think I'll use
it. Says it contains linseed oil, so it's not just wax and solvent as
Thompson's is spozed to be.
David Nebenzahl
> Andrew Barss wrote:
>
>> I did have a strangely terrific experience with spar varnish. I did
>> two exterior doors, one facing west (behind a security door), and one
>> facing south, in direct sun, in around 1996. Until 2 years ago, they
>> looked absolutely perfect. The screened westward one still looks great,
>> but the south one is peeling and so forth. But 10-11 years in bright sun
>> is pretty good!
>
> Thanks -- that's helpful, I've got some doors that need to be re-finished.
> The kid was supposed to scrape them this summer; I think he got 1/2 way
> done with one of them, so will work that when it cools off. If we don't
> paint them, will look at using spar.
Spar varnish is *THE* stuff to use on exterior wood, assuming you want a
glossy surface. Just recently refinished a client's front door with it.
I expect it to last at least 5 years, maybe more. Very pleasant stuff to
work with, too. (Assuming one doesn't mind contact with paint thinner.)
Lew Hodgett
"David Nebenzahl" wrote:
> Spar varnish is *THE* stuff to use on exterior wood, assuming you
> want a glossy surface.
True spar varnish should be restricted to wooden spars on sailboats
since it never truly hardens so you don't want to sit on it for
instance.
Standard marine varnish or poly is a far better solution.
(See previous post).
Lew
Phisherman
Varnish is mostly clear so it doesn't have as much UV protection as a
stain or paint (I would not use paint on a deck). Whatever you
decide, pay particular attention to exposed end grain--those areas
should get 2-3 coats.
J. Clarke
Just pray that that client doesn't lean on that door in an expensive suit
on a hot day. If it's real spar varnish and you didn't warn him about that
he's going to be very unhappy.
Spar varnish is a niche product intended for a specific purpose.
David Nebenzahl
Don't think that's going to be a problem. A few years ago I refinished
the floors of my living space using spar varnish, the same stuff I used
on that door (McCloskey Man-o-War). Never had any problem with things
sticking to the floor or soft varnish there, even on extremely hot days
(poor ventilation, so it got pretty hot there sometimes).
Have you actually experienced this problem? I haven't.
J. Clarke
Yep, repeatedly. Railings on boats, canoe seats and thwarts, etc. Wrecked
my whites that way just before an inspection once.
Lew Hodgett
"Phisherman" wrote:
> Varnish is mostly clear so it doesn't have as much UV protection as
> a
> stain or paint (I would not use paint on a deck). Whatever you
> decide, pay particular attention to exposed end grain--those areas
> should get 2-3 coats.
That's why you use a marine varnish or varnish, they contain UV
inhibitors.
You won't find true marine varnish at a general finish supplier.
Strictly a speciality item found at a good chandlery.
Lew
Nova
> Is it any good, or just hype.
>
> nb
It's used on the decks at the "Cave Of The Winds" at the Bridal Falls in
the Niagara Falls, NY State Park. Of course the decking is removed
every November and re-assembled each spring after being recoated which
Thompson doesn't mention in their TV commercial (but they do on their
web site).
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/news/promotions/niagara_falls_support.cfm
For personal experience with the product I had to recoat the deck on my
house every year as well. I quit using it because of this.
--
Jack Novak
Buffalo, NY - USA
nov...@verizon.net
bumhead
reused pine 2 X 6 boards. Good stuff. Planned to put a coat of oil
poly on that but never got around to it. Nothing on the wood except
the stain. Repelled water like oil. Just beaded up and rolled off.
On Tue, 18 Aug 2009 16:13:32 -0400, Phisherman <nob...@noone.com>
wrote:
Leon
"Zz Yzx" <zzy...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jckm85ljkc3kqk4sn...@4ax.com...
> >Only use it on your "Deck"
>
> But what if my deck is REALLY big?
>
> -Zz
Get 2
Andrew Barss
: Just pray that that client doesn't lean on that door in an expensive suit
: on a hot day. If it's real spar varnish and you didn't warn him about that
: he's going to be very unhappy.
: Spar varnish is a niche product intended for a specific purpose.
Well, the product I used was Behr brand spar varnish. It may not have
been true spar varnish -- it did dry, though wasn't as rock hard as normal
varnish. I never had a problem with it.
-- Andy Barss
dpb
I don't know what the supposed complaint would be--spar varnish will
certainly dry and stay dry. They're simply tung-oil (as opposed to soya
or other oil) based varnishes that also include UV inhibitors and a
little less brittle final film as compared to "ordinary" varnishes...
They're suitable for virtually any exterior purpose...
--
Larry Jaques
<not...@nothome.com> scrawled the following:
>Is it any good, or just hype.
IHMO: Shitty product, great marketing ploy. I'd sooner apply uric acid
directly. At least it would wash off more quickly (one hour of rain
instead of two)
--
"Giving every man a vote has no more made men wise and free
than Christianity has made them good." --H. L. Mencken
---
rhonda.h...@gmail.com
> Is it any good, or just hype.
>
So, I just bought a container of Thompson's Water Seal for wood... to cover bird houses...as articles had recommended. Very thin coat, and from what I'm reading here, I've wasted time and money on this product. It is a very thin coat, though I thought it would be thicker, more like a polyurethane glaze on the thin, not extremely thin, side. Told that Thompson's does protect against UV, but from this forum, looks like whoever told me was mistaken. So - the answer, for a barely even novice, looking for both a non-toxic, waterproof sealer which protects against mildew, UV, etc... would be...? And as well, if we're to toss our Thompson's Wood Deck Stain and Sealer, which we were about to reply this year, what is the recommendation for the best Wood Deck Stain and Sealer?
Larry Blanchard
> So - the answer, for a barely even novice,
> looking for both a non-toxic, waterproof sealer which protects against
> mildew, UV, etc... would be...?
Seriously, I don't think the "perfect" exterior finish exists. None last
for more than a few years and most only 1-2 years. If you believe the
statement that all finishes are non-toxic when cured, you could try
marine epoxy over shellac (SealCoat).
If you're keeping the birdhouses, my suggestion is pure tung oil,
reapplied every year. See:
https://www.dutchcrafters.com/Wood-Finishing-Pure-Tung-Oil/p/11419
--
When fascism comes to America, it will be wrapped in the flag and
carrying a cross.
Leon
paint.
Any thing clear will have to be reapplied every 2~4 years.
k...@attt.bizz
wrote:
IMO.
-MIKE-
stuff inside the can.
I am constantly getting asked to pressure wash and "re-seal" decks. And
people ask about what the best "sealer" is. I always tell them, a high
quality exterior paint.
I also tell them the worst thing they can do to a deck is pressure wash
it. It forces moisture into the wood, raises the grain and makes it all
fuzzy and splintery. The best thing to clean a wood deck is a simple
mold-killing house wash with a light rinse from a hose or pressure wash
on a very low setting.
--
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply