The only numbers are 76395030515. I don't see a date in there. They say the
shelf life is 3 years.
Leslie
"Gfretwell" <gfre...@aol.comGreg> wrote in message
news:20030820161558...@mb-m14.aol.com...
End grain joint. Any glue would fail.
OK guys we have a test in progress. I took some garden variety $5 a gallon
white glue and made exactly the same joint in a clean section of the groove
with the other end of the stick.
Those last six numbers might mean May 15, 2003, but who knows....
david
--
"We have money to blow up bridges over the Tigress and Euphrates and we
don't have money to build bridges in our major cities. We have money to
destroy the health of the Iraqi people and we don't have enough money to
repair the health of our own people in this country."
-- Rep. Dennis Kucinich
-----= Posted via Newsfeeds.Com, Uncensored Usenet News =-----
http://www.newsfeeds.com - The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World!
-----== Over 100,000 Newsgroups - 19 Different Servers! =-----
I'm not sure I agree. There's enough long grain there to give it some
strength. Sure doesn't look like there was very much glue in the joint,
though. And it definitely could have used some additional reinforcement such
as a tenon or a biscuit.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
> OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down
> good. I
Why did you wet it?
I never wet wood. Used gorilla glue in some wood repair. There's
no way those pieces of wood are coming apart :-)
ken
gfre...@aol.comGreg (Gfretwell) wrote in
news:20030820161558...@mb-m14.aol.com:
That picture looks like you are gluing end grain to long grain?
--
Patrick Fitzgerald - p...@barelyfitz.com
BarelyFitz Designs - http://www.barelyfitz.com/
DO NOT over tighten your clamps. Always add water to the mating side. Be
certain that your surfaces are as flat as you can possibly make them.
Again, your glue must be bad for it to fail so miserably.
"Gfretwell" <gfre...@aol.comGreg> wrote in message
news:20030820153811...@mb-m14.aol.com...
--
Tim
--------
See my page @ http://www.wood-workers.com/users/timv/ (seriously needs
updating)
"
> > OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down
> > good. I
>
> Why did you wet it?
> I never wet wood. Used gorilla glue in some wood repair. There's
> no way those pieces of wood are coming apart :-)
Read the directions on the bottle. Gorilla Glue and or polyurethane glue
cures in the presence of moisture. Adding water speeds cure time.
Your problem is probably defined in your statements "I wet it down good" and
"'tap in' tight". Additional moisture is absolutely not needed in "normal"
conditions and only the slightest bit of moisture is needed if you live in
someplace with no humidity. I've found that wood with 7-8% moisture content
will activate the glue just fine. The joint should not be so tight as to
drive the glue out while fitting it together. There is some narrow range of
fit which will work -- too tight and you don't have enough glue to do the
job, too loose and the glue has to fill the gap and loses strength (this is
true for all glues, not just the "gorilla" variety). Try it again and DON'T
wet it at all, make the joint 'push together' tight, and see what happens
then report back. I've used this stuff in very difficult glueups in hard
maple and other hardwoods and can state without hesitation that it sticks
fantastically well when used as intended.
--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
Return address will not work. Please
reply in group or through my website:
http://johnmcgaw.com
But adding too much water, especially with a tight-grain wood like maple,
causes the glue to foam into nothingness and never get into the pores. If
the wood has 7-8% moisture content I've never had to add moisture and it has
always held fine for me even in some very difficult situations.
--
Mike G.
Heirloom Woods
www.heirloom-woods.net
"Gfretwell" <gfre...@aol.comGreg> wrote in message
news:20030820153811...@mb-m14.aol.com...
Robert
"John McGaw" <now...@all.xyz> wrote in message
news:KWS0b.9288$7F2....@fe05.atl2.webusenet.com...
"Gfretwell" <gfre...@aol.comGreg> wrote in message
news:20030820153811...@mb-m14.aol.com...
Makes you wonder why did you ask! I simply do as the directions say and hope
for the best.
Jim
You might want to change your signature quote to this one from Dennis
Kucinich:
"In our soul's Magnificent, we become conscious of the cosmos within us. We
hear the music of peace, we hear the music of cooperation, we hear music of
love. In our soul's forgetting, we become unconscious of our cosmic
birthright, blighted with disharmony, disunity, torn asunder from the stars
in a disaster ..."
todd
Here is what I have found. About a year ago a friend of mine and I --
both longtime engineers -- made a test. We both had our opinions. He
liked Gorilla glue, I liked good old yellow PVA woodworker's glue.
We set up identical tests and tested the strength. We both found that
they both had, if properly applied, nearly the same strength. We
found that the PVA was slightly stronger in our tests. And the
strength variations due to application were greater with the Gorilla
Glue. The difference was not enough to be statistically significant.
The conclusion I have come to is:
PVA is the best for normal woodworking projects that do not need
waterproof service. PVA is more forgiving in application (there is no
special surface wetting and other concerns). Polyurethane (Gorilla
Glue) can be used to attach materials that PVA cannot (metal, plastic,
mirrors, etc). Polyurethane is better than even the type II PVA for
wet applications. Gorilla Glue does not fill gaps (with any
strength). Gorilla Glue is very, very messy and you absolutely need
gloves or you will be wearing the stuff for days on your hands until
the skin it is on wears off. Like most adhesives, they each have
their place, but I think the PVA is much easier to work with and
forgiving as long as you are working within its service parameters.
Eric
"John McGaw" <now...@all.xyz> wrote in message news:<KWS0b.9288$7F2....@fe05.atl2.webusenet.com>...
That was my first thought also, too much water!
I have used Gorilla glue without water with no problems. When I have used
water I just wiped one surface with a barely damp rag, just wet enough so
you could see a trace of moisture on the surface of the wood.
Greg
It said to on the bottle?
The first joints I made were dry and they snapped clean too. (edge to edge) I
haven't seen any wood damage in any of the failed joints. So much for "the
joint is stronger than the wood".
BTW my white glue experiment came out exactly the same. Is this just a hard
maple problem?
"...for hardwoods like oak or maple lightly dampen both surfaces"
The first time (edge to edge joint) I wiped them with a damp rag. The joint I
pictured was misted with a spray a bottle.
Everything was cured overnight.
The only things common are the wood itself and the glue. I have a dialog going
with gorillaglue.com.
Today I am going to glue up some other types of wood with this same glue.
I ask because I don't know.
At this point I am wondering wheter the best answer might be to ignore the
common wisdom of having well manicured surfaces and to scuff up the wood with a
chipped tooth table saw blade where it mates. (and I just threw one of those
away)
It is an end grain to side grain problem..the way you are trying to glue the
joint. Try glues on the maple, side grain to side grain and you will
find that is not a maple or glue problem.
Perhaps this is nothing new, but the joint has to be beyond perfect. Not a
hair (real hair) width's crack anywhere. Lots of clamp pressure, too.
--
Jim in NC--
Why are you two quoting Dennis the Menace for any reason?????
ARM
I have some failed side to side failures you can look at too. That was what
started this.
The "end grain" is in a mortise that is actually 3/8" deep" (I said 1/4
earlier).
These are typical joints I see everywhere.
I am about to shoot some stainless screws into these joints to save my $60 glue
up. :-)
So far the glue up is holding but the cut off pieces will easily fail
BTW this is Gorrila Glue's answer
"From: in...@gorillaglue.com (Judy Tracy)
To: Gfre...@aol.com
As far as we know, that wasn't a bad lot, but other than sending you another
bottle to try it again, I can't be of any more help. Most of the time the
glue fails, it has to do with moisture.
Judy
I certainly am getting all sides of this. :-)
"It's too tight"
"It's too loose"
"Too wet"
"Too dry"
I think I am just going back to good old yellow glue.
If it ain't broke..................
--
Jim in NC--
That....is an excellent quote. Thanks for sharing it!
Personally, I think they're performing a public service. The better known he
is, the lower the chances of his being elected to any office where he can do
any real damage.
--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek-at-milmac-dot-com)
No reason really. I happened on the top quote there and added it as a sig.
on a whim. I felt it was a good reality check.
I like the quote that todd points out...I've already saved it away with my
other favorite quotes.
It's about time to change the sig anyway.
david
--
It is of interest to note that while some dolphins are reported to have
learned English -- up to 50 words used in correct context -- no human being
has been reported to have learned dolphinese.
-- Carl Sagan
Remember that we're experimenting on the dolphins that were stupid enough to
get caught.
-- David Steup
> In article <vnrxhtxb28pc.1d...@40tude.net>, woodw...@dreamdynamics.nospam.com wrote:
> It is of interest to note that while some dolphins are reported to have
> learned English -- up to 50 words used in correct context -- no human being
> has been reported to have learned dolphinese.
> -- Carl Sagan
>
> Remember that we're experimenting on the dolphins that were stupid enough to
> get caught.
> -- David Steup
another excellent addition to my saved quotes!
Who is David Steup though? I can't find anything on him.
david
--
It is of interest to note that while some dolphins are reported to have
learned English -- up to 50 words used in correct context -- no human being
has been reported to have learned dolphinese.
-- Carl Sagan
Why do so many people feel the need to add political or religious signatures
to their posts? This could be a place where everyone can talk about
woodworking, without someone else's baggage making them mad.
Just a thought.
--
Jim in NC--
dave
Bugs me, too. I put filters and rules into my newsreader so I can avoid
being irritated by opaque political naivete demonstrated by people who
have to wear their opinions on their sleeves. Among the blind rage of
the American League of Bush-Haters, the Rush Limbaugh fanboys, and all of
the anti-Semetism, it gets difficult to filter it all out, and once you do
the same droll ramblings show up in sigs. Oh well. This is why the
newsgroups have a bad rep for the noise::bandwidth ratio.
I guess you could also ask why people have political or religious
statements on bumper stickers. Driving, after all, are supposed to be
about going from one location to another without someone else's baggage
making them mad....
I've always felt signatures are a way of showing a little about your
personality. They might reveal beliefs, interests, etc. The tragedy is
when they are taken too seriously.
I didn't mean to incite anything. In fact, I don't even know who Kucinich
is. I just saw the quote somewhere and thought it was nifty. I'm going to
try and keep my sigs light from now on.
cheers,
david
--
It is of interest to note that while some dolphins are reported to have
learned English -- up to 50 words used in correct context -- no human being
has been reported to have learned dolphinese.
-- Carl Sagan
And that is a very nifty quote to use as your .sig. I'm gonna save it!
Also interesting to note that humans aren't caught in fishing nets
deployed my the dolphins and served in casserole along tuna and cheese,
nor subjugated by dolphins are taught to react to verbal signals. My dog
knows about 12 words of English. Guide dogs for the blind often know
German. So what?
The Difference is, that I don't carry on a conversation with the idgets with
the bumper sticker, and don't have any chance to voice my counter points. I
might converse with you, and would like to do so, without wanting to spout
off.
Don't feel like I was picking on just you. There are many others, but I
usually bite my tounge, and save giving a piece of mind. Problem is, I
don't like holding back.
--
Jim in NC--
Doug Miller wrote:
Maybe not, they could be on leave from their school (pod) for some post dock
work in foreign/primative languages or primate studies.
ARM
>Maybe not, they could be on leave from their school (pod) for some post dock
>work in foreign/primative languages or primate studies.
>
>ARM
>
In some ways, that's an even more disturbing thought.
I had never meant for my signature to inspire conversation, either. It was
just supposed to be there, innocently lurking below my name. Perhaps to be
read, mostly to be ignored. Never to be its own thread....
I couldn't agree more, that the conversation here should be about
woodworking. I am really wishing I hadn't chosen what turned out to be
such a volatile signature.
>
> Why do so many people feel the need to add political or religious
signatures
> to their posts? This could be a place where everyone can talk about
> woodworking, without someone else's baggage making them mad.
Because they may be insecure with their beliefs and probably need that
constant reminder.
All is forgiven! :-)
--
Jim in NC--
> Because they may be insecure with their beliefs and probably need that
> constant reminder.
>
Or perhaps they're trying to give a constant reminder to others. After
all, the US media and public have a very short memory :-).
--
Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
When one of those WMD's that got taken to Syria before the war started, ends
up shoved up your A**, you will know where they are.
See what you made me do? I couldn't hold back when you so immaturely
presented such a large target.
--
Jim in NC--
> --
> Where ARE those Iraqi WMDs?
Or, perhaps they want to offer an opposing viewpoint to an opinion
already offered.
;-)
djb
--
------
WOMD?
<http://www.coxandforkum.com/archives/000140.html>
:)
Doug Miller wrote:
LOL!!! I just found out milk makes a good monitor cleaner.
ARM
Rick
>This is rec.woodworking, not rec.war, or rec. politics
I hate being a net nanny, but someone has to do it.
--
Jim in NC--
"Bob Bowles" <nosp...@vcoms.net> wrote in message
news:30u9kvgm3nbd2f3qu...@4ax.com...
> Had a boss with bumper sticker "Have you hugged your toilet laterly?"
> which was somewhat remote from religious affiliations (I think).
>
Nope, during college I worshipped at the Altar of the Porcelain God
quite a bit.
I think the problem with political sigs on apolitical newsgroups is
that they have a real tendency to derail threads. If I see a sig that
you think is brilliant, but I think is incredibly stupid or naive,
it's very hard to keep from replying to the sig.
Heck, I keep waiting for some Christian to point out to JOAT why Jesus
was so special. :)
-BAT
"Brett A. Thomas" wrote:
OK, I'll bite. #1 son?
ARM
Bob
.
"Gfretwell" <gfre...@aol.comGreg> wrote in message
news:20030820153811...@mb-m14.aol.com...
> OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
> glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in"
tight
> fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer
broke
> the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste
would
> have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the
bad
> joint.
> I hate being a net nanny, but someone has to do it.
Yeah, right...
djb
--
"You know why men name their penis? Because we wouldn't want a total stranger
making all our decisions for us!" -- Ed the Sock
"Jack of All Trades" (JOAT) has a current sig of "If we're all God's
children, what's so special about Jesus?" If I were a Christian, I
imagine it would be very tempting to write a long ranting response
explaining what was so special about Jesus. Since I'm not, I feel no
such compulsion, but I keep expecting that sig to generate a huge
thread.
Heck, maybe it's just about to do so. :)
-BAT
On 20 Aug 2003 19:38:11 GMT, gfre...@aol.comGreg (Gfretwell) wrote:
>OK I tried this stuff again. I was using hard maple, I wet it down good. I
>glued both sides and seated a 1x2 into a 1/4" rabit that was a "tap in" tight
>fit. This was clamped overnight. The next day a light tap with a hammer broke
>the joint with absolutely no damage to the wood. I think library paste would
>have done a better job. Where did I go wrong? I can send pictures of the bad
>joint.
Try the same test with PVA glue. I suspect you will have
similar results on the same joint.
However, here is my $0.02 on this thread. First off, one of
the joys of hard maple is that it is not porous. Makes it great for
cutting boards, etc, but, can make it a challenge to glue. For tenons
like that, I don't like a glass smooth surface, so, will either hit
the wood with a rasp, or some low grit (60-80 grit) sandpaper).
Then...there is the fact that a 1/4" tenon is a VERY small
amount of glue area. there is a direct connection between glue area
and strength of the joint. For a joint like this, I would want to
either pin it with brads, or, wedge it for added strength.
I am a LITTLE concerned with the "wet it down good" remark. I
find that I get the best results when I lightly dampen ONE side of the
joint and paint the glue on the other surface. If you wipe a damp
cloth lightly across the surface, so it really does not look "wet"
when done, that is probably plenty of moisture to kick in the
reaction.
There is a question about the tightness of the joint. While I
like fine-fitting mortise and tenon joints as well as the next person,
I think that if one needs a mallet to get it together, it is TOO
tight. A joint that is too tight will simply scrape the glue off the
surface, leaving too little for a strong joint. I shoot for tenons
that slide into the mortise with a SLIGHT amount of resistance. Of
course, slightly more porous woods can be tighter, as the pores of the
wood will hold the glue and allow a good, mechanical interlock. That,
by the by, is the "secret" of glue. It can "wet" or soak in, to both
surfaces, then, when it sets, it produces little ties from one surface
to the other. Also, for other joints, clamp tightness can be an issue.
I recommend tightening the clamps to about half a turn past the point
that the joint is firmly heald together - the point that a few, small
beads of glue squeeze out of the joint. You DONT want to clamp down
so tightly that the clamp is warping and the glue sprays out
of the joint. That leads to glue starvation just as a too tight
joint can, and a weak joint.
Finally, there is the fact that Gorilla Glue (and all the
clone Poly glues) are brittle when set. That is GOOD, in that
it makes it possible to sand off the glue line without clogging
the sandpaper. The bad side is, alas, that it is more sensitive
to shock forces - say...like a hammer blow. I have found that
under those circumstances, the glue line WILL shatter and allow
the wood to fall apart. I suspect that if you had simply taken
the two pieces of wood and tried to pull them apart with your hands,
you might have had more of a problem. PVA glues remain flexible
for a long time, and, so, act like shock absorbers and are better
at dealing with flexing and shock to the joint.
I would suggest this for maximum strength:
1) make the joint bigger, if possible, and, slightly looser.
No mallets but simply a firm push should be enough to put it together.
Also, accuracy counts. aim to cut joints that sit together with no
gaps WITHOUT clamps or glue.
2) If not possible to make the joint bigger, then, look at
wedging or pinning it for extra strength. When doing boxes, for
example, I will miter the corners, then, add decorative splines to
increase the joint strength.
3) either lightly dampen or put NO water on the joint before
coating ONE surface of the joint with glue.
4) When clamping apply light but firm pressure. My "perfect
clamp" is when I get it so the clamp is tight when I have just glued
up the piece, but, when the glue is dry, the clamp is slightly loose.
If you have to apply clamp pressure to pull gaps in the joint
together, it is probably a badly cut joint, and, is wanting to fail
already.
Regards
dave mundt
I think there may be a couple things going on here. First, an end
grain joint is inherently weak. I know, I know, one side is edge
grain, but a joint hath two sides, and is only as strong as its
weakest component. Second, and this is speculative because I obviously
didn't see you glue the joint, it sounds like, perhaps because of your
prior troubles, you may have used TOO much water. As others have
indicated, PU works best in the presence of MOISTURE. I've seen people
really dousing the wood prior to using this stuff (again, I'm not
saying YOU did this). Just a very light misting of water from a spray
bottle is MORE than enough.
For an end grain joint like this, I would use epoxy. Or some
mechanical assistance.
One other thing: If it's hard maple, my experience with that wood has
been that, particularly when it's sanded, it can become almost
"burnished" so that it does not absorb stain, for example, easily.
I'm wondering whether whatever quality that causes that also affects
its "glue-ability?"