Latex Paint - Tacky/Sticky finish days after painting - Solutions?
schooner
WEAR Kitchen & Bath paint http://www.cil.ca/en/brands_smart.html (at the
suggestion of the HD paint guy) as he said it would give a durable washable
finish. The surface was first lightly sanded and primed with Kilz2 and then
two coats of black latex.
The issue I am having is that the paint surface seems to remain tacky/sticky
when items are placed on it then moved later. The surface is dry to the
touch but items do stick after a few minutes. From reading I understand
this may be an issue with latex paints and known as blocking. It has only
been 3 days since the final coat was put on so perhaps it is just an issue
of waiting longer for drying?
Is there anything I can do to get rid of or reduce this beyond repainting?
Will it go away after a week or so or will it remain for the live of the
paint? What about waxing or using talcum? Since the is a semigloss black
finish I wonder if talcum would cause a mess. For wax what would be the
bets to use?
Any other suggestions?
dadiOH
Home Depot strikes again.
The tackiness is because the paint isn't yet dry and won't be for
another month or two. Eventually, the sticky goes away. You can make
it go away now with a coat of water base polyurethane varnish. Which
would also be a *much* better finish for a desk than latex. I'd think
talc would work but not good on black. Don't know about wax, maybe.
Johnson's Paste wax is a good one.
--
dadiOH
____________________________
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schooner
news:U1pIj.8313$QW6.7066@trnddc07...
Thanks, that is about what I thought. Hopefully it will go away, I just
need a short term solution I guess for the next month or so as I do need to
make use of the surface.
Will a polyurethane finish go directly over the current surface as is? I'm
a bit concerned about how well it might stick as the current paint has
Teflon in it for easy cleanup. If so how long does the polyurethane take to
dry before it could be used?
Perhaps wax is my only real easy solution for now. Anything specific to look
for in a wax for a latex surface such as this?
J. Clarke
--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)
J. Clarke
It may or may not go away. Give it a couple of weeks and see what
happens. Looking at the paint you used, it's from Imperial Chemical
Industries, it's got Teflon and ceramic microspheres, it's won several
awards, so I don't think that the quality of the paint per se is the
issue. Was the piece above 70F and the humidity below 50% when you
painted? If it wasn't, then try warming the room and keeping it warm
for a week or so. May be too late but it won't hurt anything.
If you decide to try waxing it, Butchers Wax and Johnson Wax are both
good, silicone-free products with a long track record. If you can't
find either of those, go down to the local bowling alley and ask them
what they use and where to get it and it will probably be OK.
If you want a quick and permanent fix, find a paint store (not a store
that sells paint, but one where paint is their primary business) that
has a good brand of waterborne polyurethane, get some mixed in the
color you like, and overcoat with that. Should be able to get several
coats on in a day and the next day it should be ready to use. Make
sure you tell them what you are about so that you get the right primer
and sealcoat.
schooner
news:fstbk...@news2.newsguy.com...
Thanks. The temp was around 68-70F, was painted in my basement which is
very dry and humidity is fairly low. I also ran the dehumidifier on full
the days they were painted and the day after as well. Perhaps I should just
keep it running full in the room with the painted surface.
From what I can see about the paint it is suppose to be good quality and
fairly durable, it may just be that it needs more drying time is all at this
point. I have a few things on it now (LCD monitor, keyboard, mouse, lamp)
as I need to use the surface but will try and keep most of it clear as long
as possible. Nothing is sticking yet to the point it is removing paint, it
just seems very tacky when anything is moved and I don't want to mark it up
if I can avoid it.
Larry Blanchard
> The issue I am having is that the paint surface seems to remain tacky/sticky
> when items are placed on it then moved later.
Despite what others have said, the tackiness NEVER goes away. It just
takes longer and longer for items to stick. I've got some storage
cabinets that are about 10 years old and if I leave something sitting on
them for a month or more they stick.
My suggestion would be a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac and then poly or
varnish over that. If you use super blonde shellac and water based poly
it shouldn't change the color much.
J. Clarke
> On Tue, 01 Apr 2008 10:01:28 +0000, schooner wrote:
>
>> The issue I am having is that the paint surface seems to remain
>> tacky/sticky when items are placed on it then moved later.
>
> Despite what others have said, the tackiness NEVER goes away. It
> just
> takes longer and longer for items to stick. I've got some storage
> cabinets that are about 10 years old and if I leave something
> sitting
> on them for a month or more they stick.
Depends on the quality of the paint. If it's decent quality
non-blocking latex then the tackiness does go away after a while.
> My suggestion would be a barrier coat of dewaxed shellac and then
> poly or varnish over that. If you use super blonde shellac and
> water
> based poly it shouldn't change the color much.
--
dadiOH
Set your things on waxed paper.
schooner
>> Thanks. The temp was around 68-70F, was painted in my basement
>> which is very dry and humidity is fairly low. I also ran the
>> dehumidifier on full the days they were painted and the day after
>> as well. Perhaps I should just keep it running full in the room
>> with the painted surface.
>>
>> From what I can see about the paint it is suppose to be good
>> quality and fairly durable, it may just be that it needs more
>> drying time is all at this point. I have a few things on it now
>> (LCD monitor, keyboard, mouse, lamp) as I need to use the surface
>> but will try and keep most of it clear as long as possible.
>> Nothing is sticking yet to the point it is removing paint, it just
>> seems very tacky when anything is moved and I don't want to mark it
>> up if I can avoid it.
>
> Set your things on waxed paper.
>
> --
>
> dadiOH
> ____________________________
>
Thanks, good idea with the wax paper. Would applying the wax as a short
terms solution cause any potential issues do you think?
schooner
> If you decide to try waxing it, Butchers Wax and Johnson Wax are both
> good, silicone-free products with a long track record. If you can't
> find either of those, go down to the local bowling alley and ask them
> what they use and where to get it and it will probably be OK.
>
Would the wax possibly cause any potential issues or is it fairly safe to
try?
Bryan McCormick
from "schooner" <scho...@accesswave.ca> contains these words:
> I painted a birch plywood desk work surface with latex CIL SMART3 WASH &
> WEAR Kitchen & Bath paint http://www.cil.ca/en/brands_smart.html (at the
> suggestion of the HD paint guy) as he said it would give a durable washable
> finish. The surface was first lightly sanded and primed with Kilz2
> and then
> two coats of black latex.
> Any other suggestions?
Since it is a major brand, sugest you contact their Technical Service
Department at the phone number given at the bottom of the web page
(1-800-DURABLE (387-2253)) - they hopefully should be able to assist you
to overcome the problem.
Phoned UK part of the company some years ago about a colour matching
issue and had good response and advice from them which sorted my
problem.
Regards,
Bryan
Ken
Furniture finish, water base, scuff sand with lite green Scotch Brite pad
wipe with Naptha dry recoat, One coat should do it. Woodcraft.
ps It's not real Milk Paint.
Ken
"schooner" <scho...@accesswave.ca> wrote in message
news:YJnIj.20191$_v3.1677@edtnps90...
J. Clarke
Only issue is that if you have to recoat it later you have to get the
wax off--the ones I mentioned should clean off with mineral spirits
and leave no residue. What you want to avoid is car wax with
silicone.
Joe
> terms solution cause any potential issues do you think?
Depends on the underlying issue. If the paint isn't dry it will take
longer to fully dry with coatings on top. Wax paper or wax could leave
impressions from heavy objects if the paint is still wet. Possibly use a
de-humidifier and some heat.
Others here seem to have more experience with this issue. I'd consider
the paint defective, I don't have that problem with the paints I use.
In my experience with paints, oil based take longer to dry but aren't
tacky after 4 days of drying. Oil does take up to 30 days to dry fully,
and I try not to apply further coatings before fully dry if project time
permits. Water based can be non-tacky within 30 minutes, fully dry in
48hrs. I have limited experience, usually airbrush or art, I generally
use shellacs and waxes on woodcrafts.
schooner
applying, it is just tacky when something of weight is placed on it for a
few minutes. No paint is coming off, it just seems a bit sticky on moving
the object.
"Joe" <adma...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:GN-dndy5BPg0AW_a...@earthlink.com...
Joe
> Thanks. It is not tacky to the touch like a semi dry paint soon after
> applying, it is just tacky when something of weight is placed on it for
> a few minutes. No paint is coming off, it just seems a bit sticky on
> moving the object.
Like I stated previously, not much experience.
Recent project - display cabinets for gallery/store. Original finish was
wax over shellac, de-waxed, painted with oil-based paint. Not tacky with
heavy objects after long periods of time. Sun exposure.
Past project - small dresser converted to shop cabinet, quick strip and
sand, painted with latex paint, not tacky with heavy objects after long
periods of time. Occasional damp, high humidity, garage. It was for the
shop, I had free latex and I didn't care, otherwise I never would have
chosen a latex for a high humidity location.
I had to look it up, never seen the problem. Wax or oil-based paint
finish was recommended. I'm just guessing here, but the thinness of coats
applied with the airbrush are probably why I haven't experienced it.
http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infpai/inflatexblocking.html
From what I read the problems is one or more of;
bad paint
bad surface prep
too thick of application
Try drying first then wax, otherwise after 30 days if the problem still
exists I would strip and re-paint. Quick covering problems often doesn't
work for me. YMMV
J. Clarke
> If you do recoat , use Gereral finish Milk Paint, it is a High grade
> Furniture finish, water base, scuff sand with lite green Scotch
> Brite
> pad wipe with Naptha dry recoat, One coat should do it.
> Woodcraft.
>
> ps It's not real Milk Paint.
Just for the record I can get a gallon of PolyStar or tinted Magnamax
for about the price that Woodcraft charges for a quart of General
Finish Milk Paint, and General Finish Milk Paint is another latex--it
may be _good_ latex, but trying to fix a problem with a good grade of
latex by overcoating it with a different brand of the same stuff seems
to me to be counterproductive.
> "schooner" <scho...@accesswave.ca> wrote in message
> news:YJnIj.20191$_v3.1677@edtnps90...
>> I painted a birch plywood desk work surface with latex CIL SMART3
>> WASH & WEAR Kitchen & Bath paint
>> http://www.cil.ca/en/brands_smart.html (at the suggestion of the HD
>> paint guy) as he said it would give a durable washable finish. The
>> surface was first lightly sanded and primed with Kilz2 and then two
>> coats of black latex.
>>
>> The issue I am having is that the paint surface seems to remain
>> tacky/sticky when items are placed on it then moved later. The
>> surface is dry to the touch but items do stick after a few minutes.
>> From reading I understand this may be an issue with latex paints
>> and
>> known as blocking. It has only been 3 days since the final coat was
>> put on so perhaps it is just an issue of waiting longer for drying?
>>
>> Is there anything I can do to get rid of or reduce this beyond
>> repainting? Will it go away after a week or so or will it remain
>> for
>> the live of the paint? What about waxing or using talcum? Since
>> the
>> is a semigloss black finish I wonder if talcum would cause a mess.
>> For wax what would be the bets to use?
>>
>> Any other suggestions?
--
schooner
Just a follow up that I received from CIL directly via an email to support
in case anyone was interested:
"Although the product is dry to touch - it will take up to 30 days for a
paint film to fully cure.
Paints with high levels of colorants (such as a tinted black) it will remain
soft for 7 to 10 days until all the water and other components have fully
dried out of the paint film. It would not be uncommon for a freshly painted
surface such as this show blocking as you noted.
I would suggest allowing the surface to dry at least 10 days before placing
objects with a definite weight to them in the surface."
Seems the black tint may be leading to the longer cure time.
JGS
Some people have reported having the problem for as long as five years.
As paint can take up to a month to cure (not just dry) you might want to
wait that long before you give up and strip or refinish the item. Sorry, JG
"schooner" <scho...@accesswave.ca> wrote in message
news:YJnIj.20191$_v3.1677@edtnps90...
Gene
formica and painting a primer coat to help with adhesion. I used Behr
Premium Plus Int/Ext Gloss Enamel. The color and finish look great, but
even after 6 weeks (getting close to 8 weeks) I have the same problem.
Stuff seems to stick a little before releasing. The paint is holding
well, but that tack is aggravating.
--
DerbyDad03
> "schooner" <scho...@accesswave.ca> wrote
> >
...snip...
> Just a follow up that I received from CIL directly via an email to support
> in case anyone was interested:
>
> I would suggest allowing the surface to dry at least 10 days before placing
> objects with a definite weight to them in the surface."
Does anyone know of any objects that don't have a "definite weight"?
Bill
DerbyDad03
Bill
just explaining to you what the OP meant! Of course, if the greeting
card hasn't been moved after 7 years there may be damage from the
sun... Don't forget, you brought it up, not me. <ducking>
DerbyDad03
As far as I know, all objects (even the lowly greeting card) have a "definite" weight. Of course, one could argue that getting card might weigh one amount when new, then weigh a different amount once it is signed since the ink has weight, but as long as the object is described properly (a signed greeting card) it has a "definite weight".
Bill
it as a colloquialism. Mildly amusing is that if it were not for
gravity, you wouldn't have to wait as their would be no weight--so you
would have wait 0.
Leon
want it to not "stick" to items placed on or against it. Especially in a
humid environment.
Alternatively an Alkyd oil based paint would be a better choice, in a
good brand also.
Rose Duck
roseduck
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Marsha
I have used True Value Easy Care and Weatherall paint for 30 years and have
always sworn by it. The last 10 years or so I have wanted deeper more
jewel-tone colors. I have a desk I painted over a year ago with a deep
jewel-tone Raspberry Sunset." It is dry to touch finally, but is still tacky
if something is put on it. I think that it is my fault-I had a contractor
tell me you could second coat even if tacky. I don't think so! My wall I
painted 6 days ago is on the same order. Deep maroon/raspberry. "Recoat 6
hrs." I waited over 14 hrs, didn't check the wall after all that time, and
second coated half of it. BAD! I can't believe I didn't check. Has been
raining, but I have had a fan going for 4 days. The one coat is still tacky,
but less than the second coated part. Dark paint. Fan is still going, but I
will try more heat-our thermostat is usually set at 62 degrees. PLEASE HELP!!
--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/latex-paint-tacky-sticky-finish-days-after-painting-solu-420218-.htm
J. Clarke
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_10900
@example.com says...
> replying to schooner, Marsha wrote:
> I have used True Value Easy Care and Weatherall paint for 30 years and have
> always sworn by it. The last 10 years or so I have wanted deeper more
> jewel-tone colors. I have a desk I painted over a year ago with a deep
> jewel-tone Raspberry Sunset." It is dry to touch finally, but is still tacky
> if something is put on it. I think that it is my fault-I had a contractor
> tell me you could second coat even if tacky. I don't think so! My wall I
> painted 6 days ago is on the same order. Deep maroon/raspberry. "Recoat 6
> hrs." I waited over 14 hrs, didn't check the wall after all that time, and
> second coated half of it. BAD! I can't believe I didn't check. Has been
> raining, but I have had a fan going for 4 days. The one coat is still tacky,
> but less than the second coated part. Dark paint. Fan is still going, but I
> will try more heat-our thermostat is usually set at 62 degrees. PLEASE HELP!!
Generally speaking stuff sticks to "blocking"
paints, it doesn't stick to "non-blocking". For
shelves, tables, or anything where stuff is
going to be pressed against the paint for a long
period of time you want a non-blocking paint.
Your desk you may be able to salvage with a
couple of coats of clear urethane. If it's
still sticking to stuff after that dries though
you probably have to strip it and start over and
this time go to a real paint store and tell then
what you're going to use it on.
an...@anon.non
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to schooner, Marsha wrote:
No one should reply to any of these posts that have that renegade
thieving stealer of Usenet post to pad his illegal scam site.
woodchucker
> replying to schooner, Marsha wrote:
> I have used True Value Easy Care and Weatherall paint for 30 years and have
> always sworn by it. The last 10 years or so I have wanted deeper more
> jewel-tone colors. I have a desk I painted over a year ago with a deep
> jewel-tone Raspberry Sunset." It is dry to touch finally, but is still
> tacky
> if something is put on it. I think that it is my fault-I had a contractor
> tell me you could second coat even if tacky. I don't think so! My wall I
> painted 6 days ago is on the same order. Deep maroon/raspberry. "Recoat 6
> hrs." I waited over 14 hrs, didn't check the wall after all that time, and
> second coated half of it. BAD! I can't believe I didn't check. Has been
> raining, but I have had a fan going for 4 days. The one coat is still
> tacky,
> but less than the second coated part. Dark paint. Fan is still going,
> but I
> will try more heat-our thermostat is usually set at 62 degrees. PLEASE
> HELP!!
exterior paints. Exterior paints do not harden. They remain flexible to
expand and contract with the weather. So that may feel tacky to you,
since it's not hard, like an interior grade. Not 100% sure, but that's
what I think is happening. The same occurrs with Spar urethane, it
always feels a little rubbery (tacky) indoors, but is fine outdoors.
--
Jeff
---
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Trenbidia
> Paints are either "blocking" or "non-blocking". Generally speaking stuff
> sticks to "blocking" paints, it doesn't stick to "non-blocking". For
> shelves, tables, or anything where stuff is going to be pressed against
> the paint for a long period of time you want a non-blocking paint.
"Pullman Green". After approx. 12-15 years, they still act sticky if
something sits on for a long time. Used to be a day, now it takes about
a week.
--
Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!
Lorraine
Painted my deck with a latex paint twice cause first time I ended in evening
thought it was to cold, which was why I got sticky paint. Do I redid it on a
warm day same thing happen . I'm out of paint love the color it was custom.
What to do?
Lorraine Ruscher
This is the second time I painted my deck with latex paint .first time ended
in the evening and it got alittle chilly. It has been tacky and the paint came
off under chairs.. I repaint it was very warm and it's still tacky love the
color it was custom have no more please help having party tomorrow.
k...@notreal.com
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to JGS, Lorraine Ruscher wrote:
>This is the second time I painted my deck with latex paint .first time ended
>in the evening and it got alittle chilly. It has been tacky and the paint came
>off under chairs.. I repaint it was very warm and it's still tacky love the
>color it was custom have no more please help having party tomorrow.
"dries". A "blocking" paint will cure as a solid and you won't have
that problem. Ask someone at a real paint store for paint for the
specific application.
https://www.sherwin-williams.com/homeowners/ask-sherwin-williams/problem-solver/peeling-cracking/sw-article-dir-adhesion-block
BTW, paint isn't the best idea for a deck.
Jerid
I have learned 2 things:
1) Always opt for the more expensive level of paint. The cheaper paints cost
you more in the long and the short as it will take up to 4 coats of the cheap
paint as opposed to one coat of the more expensive paint. As far as
durability, the more expensive paint will last much longer (less times you
need to touch up or repaint). Also, the cheaper paints seem to just scratch
off.
2) Always go for an exterior enamel, even for interior. It's much more
durable and it will actually dry!
In summary, you may sneer at paying $40 / gal for the good stuff, but you will
spend much less time painting and much more time enjoying the finish product!
Leon
> replying to schooner, Jerid wrote:
> I have learned 2 things:
> 1) Always opt for the more expensive level of paint. The cheaper paints
> cost
> you more in the long and the short as it will take up to 4 coats of the
> cheap
> paint as opposed to one coat of the more expensive paint. As far as
> durability, the more expensive paint will last much longer (less times you
> need to touch up or repaint). Also, the cheaper paints seem to just scratch
> off.
> 2) Always go for an exterior enamel, even for interior. It's much more
> durable and it will actually dry!
> In summary, you may sneer at paying $40 / gal for the good stuff, but
> you will
> spend much less time painting and much more time enjoying the finish
> product!
>
hard non sticky finish. You need an oil based enamel, interior is fine.
Patsy
Months after finishing a shelving unit with polycrylic after painting with
latex paint the item is still tacky. Items on the shelves stick slightly so I
keep moving them a bit every once in awhile while waiting for the stickiness
to go away, if it ever does.
J. Clarke
<caedfaa9ed1216d60ef...@example.com> wrote:
>replying to dadiOH, Patsy wrote:
>Months after finishing a shelving unit with polycrylic after painting with
>latex paint the item is still tacky. Items on the shelves stick slightly so I
>keep moving them a bit every once in awhile while waiting for the stickiness
>to go away, if it ever does.
You should have used a non-blocking paint to begin with. Might not be
a way to fix it now short of stripping it down and starting over.
George Sandoval Jr
*_What if i add water to the paint?
babsy...@gmail.com
Leon
> I painted my kitchen cabinets which one we bought the house they said was fairly new and it was painted over God knows what plywood and then painted like it had a wood texture. it was much too dark for tiny kitchen so I painted the upper cabinets in a white oil-based paint and they are fine. Other than a couple of chips from somebody slamming stuff into them, they are washable and still look beautiful and this is over 20 years ago. I got lazy because I was pregnant and did the bottom cabinets with the same color but in latex paint. It is still tacky! When I say tacky, it's disgusting to touch any harder to clean because it takes some of the latex and peels it back. I am in no financial position to place my kitchen cabinets and I need to get this latex stuff off of them. I even use my fingernail when I'm sitting here watching TV in my kitchen and peel what I can peel. What can I do to get this crap off of the cabinets and then prepare them for another painting with oil paint?
>
quality latex based. Cheaper latex paints tend to always feel like soft
plastic.
k...@notreal.com
>I painted my kitchen cabinets which one we bought the house they said was fairly new and it was painted over God knows what plywood and then painted like it had a wood texture. it was much too dark for tiny kitchen so I painted the upper cabinets in a white oil-based paint and they are fine. Other than a couple of chips from somebody slamming stuff into them, they are washable and still look beautiful and this is over 20 years ago. I got lazy because I was pregnant and did the bottom cabinets with the same color but in latex paint. It is still tacky! When I say tacky, it's disgusting to touch any harder to clean because it takes some of the latex and peels it back. I am in no financial position to place my kitchen cabinets and I need to get this latex stuff off of them. I even use my fingernail when I'm sitting here watching TV in my kitchen and peel what I can peel. What can I do to get this crap off of the cabinets and then prepare them for another painting with oil paint?
putting a coat of poly over it. I figured it was a lost cause so
might as well try something. I couldn't make it worse. It worked
quite well but I may have just gotten lucky.
DerbyDad03
first place, it'll come off real easy.
Depending on how much is stripped off, you can prime with an oil based
primer or use Benjamin Moore Advance Primer. If you aren't sure which,
take a door with you to a local independent paint store that carries
Benjamin More paints.
Paint with Benjamin Moore Advance paint. Great stuff. Takes a little
longer to cure than other paints, but it cures really hard and durable.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=areCvMJMhO8
Clare Snyder
important than with an alkyd paint. Just a touch of grease will
prevent latex from sticking - an oil pase paint can absorb a small
amount of grease/oil and still cure