Anyone routed brass and or cut it on a table saw
Damned if i know
I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with carbide
bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know that is
much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
greatly appreciated
Dave W
lessen the amount of handsawing. Using the table saw or router is asking
for pieces to fly around the shop! My dad had a two speed Delta bandsaw
which was very useful as a woodworking tool and for cutting metals including
steel. It was just like the current Delta 14 inch bandsaw but had a
gearbox. Getting the slow speed involved removing the belt which went from
motor to lower BS wheel. A lever on the gearbox was thrown and a different
belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
one.
Dave
"Damned if i know" <q...@bls.com> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
Wilson
help.
Wilson
Andy Dingley
> I need to cut a V channel in some brass.
What's "brass" ? It comes in all sorts of grades, from soft to hard.
Hard brass (rolled etc.) can be really hard work to machine like this.
For some of the alloys (especially BeCu) then I'd run a mile from this
sort of lash-up.
> How well does it work with carbide
> bits and or table saw blades.
Badly. I wouldn't rout it. I _really_ wouldn't unless I could run my
router very slowly. I'd think about it with something like an overhead
router and leadscrews to feed the stock into the cutter.
And I've never liked machining something with dust-like conductive
fragments coming off it and a poorly sealed motor nearby.
If you have to cut this on a circular saw, then this is definitely
time to get a blade with negative rake on the teeth. They're easy to
get - the door & window fitting trade use them.
On the whole, go to it. But turn that cutter slowly and make sure that
the workpiece is clamped down firmly. Feeding a hand-held cutter into
brass would give me conniptions.
Personally I'd probably reach for a file.
Ed Angell
rake if you have that control as the Bosch does, use a medium slow speed. I
cut !/4" flat stock and bar stock up to 2" in diameter all the time. I use
Lennox blades 14- 18 TPI.
Ed Angell
"Damned if i know" <q...@bls.com> wrote in message
news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
Norm Dresner
> news:yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no...
> > Hey guys and girls!
> >
> > I need to cut a V channel in some brass. How well does it work with
> carbide
> > bits and or table saw blades. I've done lots of aluminum but I know
that
> is
> > much softer than brass. Any help and or experience you have would be
> > greatly appreciated
> >
I've cut brass on a variable speed band saw and a slow speed miniature table
saw with good results. I've used a Dremel in a miniature drill press to
mill designs. BUT ONLY AT LOW CUTTING SPEED. If your router has -- or can
be attached to -- a speed control, then go for it with a carbide blade. You
might also conisder mounted, shaped stones of the type usually used in "die
grinders".
Norm
bri...@thanks.com
wrote:
router bits are designed to cut wood at high rpms. if you slow the
tool down it becomes easy to overfeed the material into it- that big
gullet designed to clear sawdust will allow the tool to grab a big
bite and kick that bit of brass in a nasty way.
however, there are cutters designed for metal that will fit your
router's collet. go to a machinists' supply house and ask there. they
will be able to sell you the appropriate cutter and advise you as to
the proper speed to run it and what lubricant to use.
Mike Hide
--
http://members.tripod.com/mikehide2
<bri...@thanks.com> wrote in message
news:19p3d0h8st3ln300c...@4ax.com...
Bill Rogers
wrote:
>You know they make machine tools to do work on metals .....mjh
No sense wasting so much time on such a stupid question. I'd suggest
he try it and let us know ...when he gets out of the hospital. It
sounds more like a troll than a troll.
Bill.
Charlie Mraz
inserts. They sandwiched it between two pieces of hardboard and cut it on a
bandsaw, then sanded to the line on a disc sander. Hope this helps.
Charlie
Damned if i know
plonk
"Bill Rogers" <willr...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1794d05mvhl8616js...@4ax.com...
Damned if i know
be asked. Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
ridicule questions) I'll skip the cutting of brass on the router or table
saw.
Andy Dingley
wrote:
>Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
>ridicule questions
Be tolerant of the short-fuzed, for their patience is sorely tried by
the abundance of genuine trolls.
Bruce Barnett
> I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
I've see an add-on in a recent catalog for the Jet 14" BS, to make it
into the multi-speed metal/wood type.
--
Sending unsolicited commercial e-mail to this account incurs a fee of
$500 per message, and acknowledges the legality of this contract.
Pounds on Wood
change from high or low ratio gearing. Of course it still has step pulleys
for changing speeds within a range. Mine is old, has the hex blade guide
rod, but I have not checked just how old. Probably not 1940's like your
dad's so maybe the belt arrangement was changed. Mine does have two belts
however, and it might be confusing to know what goes where without a manual.
You can see mine here; http://billpounds.com/woodshop/bandsaw.html
Yes, you can buy that saw today. Spendy though, as bandsaws go.
--
Bill Pounds
http://www.billpounds.com/woodshop
"Dave W" <wood...@suscom-maine.net> wrote in message
news:Jt-dnd1lw4I...@suscom-maine.net...
Dave Hinz
> Thanx to all (except the one dumb ass who can't understand questions need to
> be asked. Only stupid people don't ask questions and even stupider assholes
> ridicule questions) I'll skip the cutting of brass on the router or table
> saw.
You know, the attitude you're showing isn't helping anything. Usenet
requires a thick skin; if you're going to get all shook up by one person
saying you're trying something stupid or whatever they said, you won't
enjoy it here much.
Blow off the useless answers; ranting about it (in two messages now)
doesn't get you anywhere good.
tim1...@yahoo.com
sawing non-ferrous metals. For example, here's info on Freud blades:
http://www.right-tool.com/freudlu8nons.html (There are several other
brands that sell non-ferrous blades, too.)
The key thing is that the blade teeth have a negative hook angle, that
is, the tooth faces are pointed a little bit backwards. Woodworking
blades have positive hook angles, which would cause brass to be pulled
into the blade as you cut. That wouldn't be a lot of fun.
I'd be afraid of using router bits for this very reason.
Metal-cutting end-mills would probably work in a router, but you're
limited in geometry to flat end and ball nose cutters. Something like
a carbide single flute countersink cutter
(https://www.travers.com/pdfshow.asp?p=91) might give you the
V-channel you're looking for. The 1/4" size would chuck into a 1/4"
collet in a router, and it's rated speed for cutting brass would be
about 10,000 rpm. These may not be able to cut a sharp V at the tip
since countersinks aren't designed to do that, however.
Good luck,
Tim
"Damned if i know" <q...@bls.com> wrote in message news:<yX9Ac.738511$Pk3.230821@pd7tw1no>...
tim1...@yahoo.com
> belt put on between motor and gearbox. I have never seen another one; it
> was definitely pre 1940. If someone came out with one today, I would buy
> one.
The General 590 bandsaw
(http://www.general.ca/product/general/590an.html) has a gearbox with
a shift lever for high and low range and step pulleys for four speeds
in each. (It's also a beautifly finished piece of machinery.)
Tim
Damned if i know
thats all I should have done.
"Dave Hinz" <Dave...@spamcop.net> wrote in message
news:2jgefkF...@uni-berlin.de...
Damned if i know
will do what I want
<tim1...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:d4e369f8.0406...@posting.google.com...
Dave Hinz
> You are right I shouldn't lower myself to a trolls level. I plonked him and
> thats all I should have done.
That's not what I said, I said you need to not be so damn touchy.
The guy who told you you were proposing something stupid wasn't
being a troll, he was pointing out something that he felt was important.
You can choose to play a "who is grumpier than who" game, but that
doesn't make him a troll.
If you respond like this to everyone who tries to give you advice
_that you asked for_, you'll find that nobody will answer your questions.