Best way to spread contact glue???

[Michel Diotte]

I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.
What to do???
Any feedback will be appreciated.
Thanks

Michel Diotte

[Frank K.]

There are special rollers for use with contact cements. They don't have a
nap. It's more like a very tight, closed loop. You don't have to clean them.
When new cement gets on them, it softens the old stuff. I bought mine at a
laminate supplier in Austin, Texas. They really work well. Roll on the first
coat. Let it dry, then roll a second coat.

Good luck.
--
Frank
E-mail: fra...@dmv.com
Homepage: http://home.dmv.com/~frankk
Michel Diotte <michel....@videotron.ca> wrote in message
news:eVxh2.226$hG....@weber.videotron.net...

[Mike Lazzari]

One thing you can do is switch to a water based contact cement. It gives you a
little more time and spreads evenly and easily. I use a 9" roller and paint
tray. It'll leave you with a few working brain cells too. For the old nasty
type glue use a very short nap roller cover. (I've even used a piece of PVC
pipe in a pinch.) Work fast and don't go back over an area. After it is
totally dry you could do a second coat if necessary.

Mike

[stkb...@my-dejanews.com]

Michel, I have not done any work with contact cements but watched a Pro
recover several showcases for Kmart during a remodeling. They used small 4"
(?) rollers with a very short nap. They worked very quickly spreading the
glue and tried not to overlap applications with the roller.

Hope this helps
Mark Cross
http://www.sawdustsales.com Home of the monthly woodworker giveaway

In article <eVxh2.226$hG....@weber.videotron.net>,

"Michel Diotte" <michel....@videotron.ca> wrote:
> I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
> I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
> be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
> This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.
> What to do???
> Any feedback will be appreciated.
> Thanks
>
> Michel Diotte
>
>

-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own

[David Alexander]

I just pour some cement right onto the surface and then use a piece of
laminate like a squeegee or a trowel to spread it around. I find this
method much quicker, more consistent, and cheaper than using a roller.

"Michel Diotte" <michel....@videotron.ca> wrote:

>I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
>I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
>be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
>This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.
>What to do???
>Any feedback will be appreciated.
>Thanks
>
>Michel Diotte
>

David Alexander
d...@extremezone.com

[SLACKCE]

>From: "Michel Diotte" <michel....@videotron.ca>

>I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
>I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
>be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
>This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.
>What to do???
>Any feedback will be appreciated.
>Thanks

Michel,
The previous posts telling you about rollers is correct. They do make rollers
just for applying contact cement, and if used corectly, will do a wonderful
job.
Just remember to apply a balancing sheet to the other side of your top, or you
could end up with your top warping. It is really important if you are making a
top for a kitchen, bar or vanity application. This is to help prevent moisture
from penetrating the underside of the top.

Good luck,
Charlie Slack

[Mike Lazzari]

SLACKCE wrote:

> Just remember to apply a balancing sheet to the other side of your top, or you
> could end up with your top warping. It is really important if you are making a
> top for a kitchen, bar or vanity application. This is to help prevent moisture
> from penetrating the underside of the top.
>
> Good luck,
> Charlie Slack

While this is recommended for doors it is not really necessary for countertops
except perhaps in the most extreme conditions. Manufacturers spec high density
particle board or MDF as an underlayment because besides not having voids it
expands and contracts at about the same rate as the laminate itself. The result is
a very stable top. Just don't use plywood or floor underlayment and you'll be ok.

Mike

[McNair, Ken (EXCHANGE:CAR:9F24)]

Michel Diotte wrote:
>
> I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
> I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
> be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
> This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.

A notched spreader works fine for me -
spreads the glue evenly in lines which
don't dry too quickly; if you are using
a smooth spreader, you can't get it on
evenly, and the thin film dries too quickly.

[Louis ALLEVA]

Hey Ken the best way to spread contact glue is whit a air paint gun whit a
nosel .020"
you will be fascinated by the way the job is done don't forget to use spray
contact glue............

For more advise get back to Louis Alleva
McNair, Ken (EXCHANGE:CAR:9F24) a écrit dans le message
<36964518...@americasm01.nt.com>...

[Kenny Lipowski]

Try a short knapped paint roller......It works great!
Kenny Lipowski
Puddle Town Woodworking
Portland, Oregon

McNair, Ken (EXCHANGE:CAR:9F24) wrote in message

[David Harms]

I used a plastic liner once and the glue dissolved it in about 10
seconds. Water based contact cement probably won't do that but the mind
warping stuff will
Innocent Bystander wrote in message
<3696cb51....@news.magicnet.net>...

>On Fri, 08 Jan 1999 12:49:12 -0500, "McNair, Ken (EXCHANGE:CAR:9F24)"
><mcn...@americasm01.nt.com> wrote:
>
>>Michel Diotte wrote:
>>>
>>> I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
>>> I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue
can
>>> be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
>>> This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.
>>
>>A notched spreader works fine for me -
>>spreads the glue evenly in lines which
>>don't dry too quickly; if you are using
>>a smooth spreader, you can't get it on
>>evenly, and the thin film dries too quickly.
>

>I have had the best luck using a paint roller with short nap roller.
>Covers quickly and evenly. Get a disposable paint pan liner so you
>don't have to worry about cleanup.
>
>
>
> "If something is worth doing, read the directions FIRST"
>
>Gary Cochran
>
>

[Innocent Bystander]

[Gerry Glauser]

The short nap roller seems to be fine if its thin, but can be more difficult
to quickly lay on an even and thin coat with a thicker glue, both contact
cement and otherwise. While researching articles on veneering I came across
David Square's method. With a notched trowel or spreader, you can quickly
get the even thickness. He then follows it up with the roller, just to
smooth down what's already been put down evenly.

--Gerry Glauser

[wai...@yahoo.com]

On Sunday, December 27, 1998 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-8, Michel Diotte wrote:
> I have made 2 plastic laminated tops and I have used contact cement.
> I am using mdf as a base for the tops. I find that spreading the glue can
> be very tricky as the glue penetrates and starts drying as it is spread.
> This causes build-ups in some spots and some areas are starved for glue.

> What to do???
> Any feedback will be appreciated.
> Thanks
>

> Michel Diotte

if you're using a roller, apply the cement with a squeeze bottle, similar to a wood glue bottle. if you lay the cement out in evenly spaced lines across your material, it rolls out more evenly.

[woodchucker]

Get a squeegee for the bathroom.

I have also used old credit cards.

--
Jeff

[John McCoy]

woodchucker <nos...@nospam.com> wrote in
news:GfidneiO95dkLMXF...@ptd.net:

One certainly hopes that at some point between 1998 and now
Michel found an answer to his question.

Myself, I always use a brush for contact cement, and don't
worry about it being perfectly even (or about it drying as
it's spread, since it has to dry before the laminate is put
on anyway). Using a J-roller on the laminate, as one is
susposed to, seems to flatten any lumps in the cement just
fine.

John

[DerbyDad03]

I save my hotel card keys. They make great spreaders, shims, etc.

[joeym...@gmail.com]

What is a balancing sheet?

[Leon]

On 2/24/2020 9:57 AM, joeym...@gmail.com wrote:
> What is a balancing sheet?
>

A same type material on the opposite of the panel you are covering. IN
many conditions this will prevent the side that likely will not show
from absorbing moisture and causing the unit to bow.

I have built an 11' long counter top with no balancing sheet with no
issue. This counter top however is in a controlled environment.

To be safe, use a balancing sheet.