Bending Sawzall Blades

[David Hinz Mfg 4-6987]

Greetings. I recently got a super-sawzall for my birthday (great parents!)
and I am having some trouble keeping from bending the blades with it. It seems
that I get part-way through my cut and suddenly, brzannnnnng, there goes the
blade. Obviously I'm doing something fundamentally wrong, any suggestions?
Perhaps a longer blade?

I breathlessly await your replies.

Dave Hinz

[Ron Natalie]

You'll find it much easier with the recip to make sure you keep the
"foot" or whatever it's really called hard pressed flat against
what you're cutting. Not only does this probably keep you from
bending the blade, but it also makes the cutting more efficient
(otherwise some of the recip action goes towards reciprocating
the user). I also use bimetal blades in mine which I seem to have
better luck with than the cheap ones (the price isn't that different).

-Ron

[24224-guthrie]

In article <Jul.8.15.32....@pilot.njin.net> r...@pilot.njin.net (Ron Natalie) writes:

>You'll find it much easier with the recip to make sure you keep the
>"foot" or whatever it's really called hard pressed flat against
>what you're cutting. Not only does this probably keep you from
>bending the blade, but it also makes the cutting more efficient
>(otherwise some of the recip action goes towards reciprocating
>the user).

Also try adjusting the foot to be as close to the body of the saw as
you can get it. What you want to do is reduce the amount of exposed
blade between the saw and the wood. Also. You *are* using a long enough
blade, I hope? The blade must be long enough to stick out of the other
side of the wood when it's on the short side of the stroke (in other
words, at all times).

-----------------------------------------------------------------------
|
George Patterson - | No city is large enough to support one lawyer
| No town is too small to support two.
| Samuel Clemens
-----------------------------------------------------------------------

[Bob Parnass, AJ9S]

In article <1992Jul8.0...@mr.med.ge.com>,

hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:

> Greetings. I recently got a super-sawzall for my birthday (great parents!)
> and I am having some trouble keeping from bending the blades with it.

Sawzall blades will bend when the tip strikes a solid object.
It's not meant to "stab" material. When sawing, keep the shoe
(blade runs through a slotted metal shoe) pressed against
the surface of what you're sawing.

Also, you must be careful when sawing through 2 parallel surfaces
that the teeth are in contact with both surfaces at all times.
--
==============================================================================
Bob Parnass, AJ9S - AT&T Bell Labs - par...@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414

[David Hinz Mfg 4-6987]

par...@cbnewse.cb.att.com (Bob Parnass, AJ9S) writes:
: In article <1992Jul8.0...@mr.med.ge.com>,

: hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
:
: > Greetings. I recently got a super-sawzall for my birthday (great parents!)
: > and I am having some trouble keeping from bending the blades with it.

:
(stuff deleted)
:
: Also, you must be careful when sawing through 2 parallel surfaces

: that the teeth are in contact with both surfaces at all times.

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh....that's it. I was using it for a non-
wood project of cutting up a parts car, with a double wall. I was pretty sure
the blade was long enough. It is all clear to me now.

THANK YOU!

--

Dave Hinz - Opinions expressed are mine, not my employer's. Obviously.
Pherrets are Phun!!
SAAB - you get what you pay for; you pay (and pay, and pay) for what you get.

[Doug Cutler]

On Wed, 8 Jul 1992 22:47:30 GMT Bob Parnass, AJ9S said:
>In article <1992Jul8.0...@mr.med.ge.com>,
>hinz@bonfire (David Hinz Mfg 4-6987) writes:
>
>> Greetings. I recently got a super-sawzall for my birthday (great parents!)
>> and I am having some trouble keeping from bending the blades with it.
>

>Sawzall blades will bend when the tip strikes a solid object.
>It's not meant to "stab" material. When sawing, keep the shoe
>(blade runs through a slotted metal shoe) pressed against
>the surface of what you're sawing.
>

As a somewhat veteran wrecker (mine got nicknamed the Wrecking Saw because
it primary use has been to remove walls, hackup old dog houses, etc.) a couple
of other points:
If at all possible the tooth pitch should be finer than the material being
cut, this may not be possible with thin sheet metal, in that case do not put
much pressure on the saw while cutting.
Material and saw blades will often have a "resonant" vibration frequency,
if you have a variable speed version do not saw at this speed, given a choice
go faster rather than slower, some basic physics/electrical engineering about
the impedance of resonant circuits/devices, I will let Bob correct me on that
if I am wrong

>==============================================================================
>Bob Parnass, AJ9S - AT&T Bell Labs - par...@ihlpm.att.com - (708)979-5414

Doug. Cutler Office of Information Technology,
VM Systems Programmer University of North Carolina.

[Allan Pirie]

Make sure you keep the saw pushed firmly against your work. As the blade retracts into the saw the fence takes the force. As the blade pushes into the work you take the force. Bending the blade happens as the blade moves into the work and binds and has enough room , to the side, to bend outwards. The other way to bend or break a blade is to cut something thicker then the blade is long and have the blade bottom out.