DeWalt 733 planer *thunk*

[opa...@gmail.com]

Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of
making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine. When
this happens, the board stops dead in it's tracks (only for a
millisecond), it continues through, and then there is usually a divot
in the board where the thunk occurred. It was a gradual thing at
first, but now it happens regularly. I replaced the blades today with
new ones...same thing. I cleaned the rollers with denatured alcohol,
have even tried 120grit sandpaper on them, and waxed the in/out feed
tables...same thing. I'm planing poplar if it matters at all. I'm
only planing 1/64" or so when this happens, but it happens at other
removal thicknesses also. Is my next stop the service center??

Cheers

[Lew Hodgett]

"duke...@yahoo.com" wrote:

> Have a few year old DeWalt 733 that recently started behavior of
> making a loud "thunk" noise as board is fed through machine.

<snip>

> Is my next stop the service center??

Call tech service on the 800# first.

They were very helpful to me on a planer problem.

Lew

[Robatoy]

Sounds like it is skipping a tooth in the roller drive.
Best you listen to uncle Lew.

[Leon]

"duke...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:65056bad-ea04-42b7...@t3g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...

Perhaps a "key" that indexes the feed rollers to a drive gear.

[Martin H. Eastburn]

Bad bearing ? - I can't believe a bad belt. It would make noise but
should not divit. Look it all over and hand turn it. power off...

Martin

[Doug S]

Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will
find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is
due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool
repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had
the same symptoms.
Doug

"duke...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:65056bad-ea04-42b7...@t3g2000yqa.googlegroups.com...

[dpb]

Doug S wrote:
> Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will
> find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is
> due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool
> repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had
> the same symptoms.

...
They don't have an adjustment idler? Any way to add one (even an
old-style wooden slide block) if not?

Can't remove a link?

--

[opa...@gmail.com]

Took it apart and the chain has a bad link. Stiff as can be. Tried
flexing it back & forth. Gave up & ordered $4 replacement chain from
repair center.

Thanks for all the help!
Happy St. Paddy's

On Mar 17, 8:20 pm, "Doug S" <dpseib...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> Remove the guard over the chain drive for the rollers and I bet you will
> find that the chain keeps jumping a tooth on one of the sprockets. This is
> due to stretch in the chain. You need to replace the chain. I own a tool
> repair shop and I have had to replace several of these for customers who had
> the same symptoms.
> Doug
>

> "dukes...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote in message

[John Grossbohlin]

FYI if this happens again and you need to get up and running quick: Based on
my recollections of the chain size, a chain tool from a bicycle shop would
probably fix it... you can adjust how tight a link is with the tool. I've
had one of those tools for years due to my affection for cycling. In fact,
I've been thinking about doing another big trip in 2011 from coast to coast,
25 years after my 3,142 mile trip. I wonder if the finishes and wood dust
have affected me? :~)

"duke...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:95abf4e2-75f7-482f...@33g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...

[opa...@gmail.com]

Good tip; I'm a cyclist also, and have a chain breaker. Unfortunately
this chain appears to be a little larger than what my chain tool
accepts and I ended up tearing up the chain breaker in my haste to try
and get the planer back up & running. It was not a good Park Tool
quality breaker mind you but a knock-off chiwainese one that I've only
used one other time. As always, buy the best and cry once.

I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky
think called employment out of the way!

Cheers

On Mar 17, 9:42 pm, "John Grossbohlin"

<grossboj.nos...@nospam.earthlink.net> wrote:
> FYI if this happens again and you need to get up and running quick: Based on
> my recollections of the chain size, a chain tool from a bicycle shop would
> probably fix it... you can adjust how tight a link is with the tool. I've
> had one of those tools for years due to my affection for cycling. In fact,
> I've been thinking about doing another big trip in 2011 from coast to coast,
> 25 years after my 3,142 mile trip. I wonder if the finishes and wood dust
> have affected me? :~)
>

[CW]

On 18-Mar-2009, "duke...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky
> think called employment out of the way!

I've got some unemployment I don't really need. How about
a trade?

[John Grossbohlin]

"duke...@yahoo.com" <opa...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:93d3c033-7fe7-4dce...@v15g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...

Good tip; I'm a cyclist also, and have a chain breaker. Unfortunately
this chain appears to be a little larger than what my chain tool
accepts and I ended up tearing up the chain breaker in my haste to try
and get the planer back up & running. It was not a good Park Tool
quality breaker mind you but a knock-off chiwainese one that I've only
used one other time. As always, buy the best and cry once.

I'd like to do a coast to coast also, if I could just get this pesky
think called employment out of the way!

I thought the chain size was about the same as used on the coaster brake/3
speed bikes... could be faulty memory on my part as I sold my 733 about 4-5
years ago after getting a Jet planer/molder on an enclosed base so the image
isn't fresh in my head.

Re employment, for my first trip I resigned and took off. This time I can
cobble together a couple of months of paid time off--which my family
appreciates. ;~)

Well, I'm off to the shop to get the dust and finish levels up so the trip
continues to sound like a good idea.... ;~)

John

[trito...@comcast.net]

Planer "skips" when planing (irregularly) can leave mark on stock when happens.

Note:
I'd ensure each problem is fixed before you delve deeper, though understand consolidating part order. Ensure planer unplugged, blah, blah, blah. steps 1-3 are ok for novice, step 4 intermediate/difficult

1. Check feed rollers if show significant wear, replace will need to follow chain and bushing steps below. If glazed clean with solvent (alcohol or thinner using scrub pad). Don't cut yourself on blades
2. Check rubber (nylon) drive belt (located right side from front)
> remove top 4 allen bolts
> remove allen securing height adjuster, then remove handle assembly
> remove 4 screws holding left and right plastic side panels
> lift out side panels
> inspect belt if shows any wear, replace
3. Check drive chains (located left side from front, FYI chains do have normal slack, no tension adj)
> remove plastic chain cover, 2 screws on bottom front/back
> remove snap rings
> ease out sprockets front/rear to remove chains
> check chains, make sure all links flex easily, if any bind replace chain
> inspect sprockets, any damage replace
4.Inspect bushings (securing screws are a bitch to get out, can try ratchet w/ phillips, I had to use vice grips on heads when phillips started to strip)
> raise cutterhead all the way
> Start with 2 rear bushings
> 2 screws secure each bushing retaining bracket, FYI there are springs pushing down on bushings, but not heavily loaded, ease both out a few turns at a time. watch bushing, should move downward with spring pressure easily. If it binds bushing and/or spring may need replacement
> same deal with front
> when reinstalling, ease screws in back/front a bit at a time
5. Drive gears (now we're getting into more difficulty, proceed at you own risk. may have missed some screws, but if you're game for attempting this, you'll get the jist)
> Remove top cover (black) of planer.
> Remove dust chute (3 phillips) and rear blade access cover (2 allen)
> Remove 4 allen screws underneath front of motor assembly
> Remove power switch (6 phillips), disconnect leads (label to ensure proper reattachment)
> Remove nylon belt shroud (rt side, 1 phillips), take belt off rollers
> remove power cord securing screw (left side, 1 phillips)
> Lift out motor assembly
> Remove 2 screws left side securing plastic housing, remove housing
> detach ground lead (green wire, 1 phillips)
> Remove 4 screws securing gearcase cover, remove carefully
> Inspect all gears replace if damaged. Note: if smallest drive gear damaged is actually the end of armature. big money part...plus bearings, etc...

Put everything back together

This is what I found:
> drive rollers worn but I decided not to replace yet
> nylon drive belt was original, looked ok but had discolored to almost brown so I replaced
> 1 drive chain (inner) had bad link
> bushing on left rear (drive side) had been a bit mangled/cracked either causing or caused by skipping, so I replaced both rear bushings
> armature spiral drive gear showed wear but big $ part, plus bearings..etc... older planer so no replacement for me
> everything else looked fine

I fixed the problems in order as listed but still skipped. Not until I got into gearcase (with no replacements) and reassembled did skipping stop, but no obvious problems...

Have planed quite a bit since with no probs, running like new-

...disassemble..reassemble..disassemble...I've heard patience is a virtue, hours spent, good luck

[Electric Comet]

On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 04:17:18 -0800 (PST)
tri ton 5226 @ comcast.net wrote:

>
>
> Planer "skips" when planing (irregularly) can leave mark on stock
> when happens.

commonly known as snipe

it can be hard to track down the cause

the material can sometimes be the culprit even

[dpb]

On 02/11/2016 7:30 AM, Electric Comet wrote:
> On Thu, 11 Feb 2016 04:17:18 -0800 (PST)
> tri ton 5226 @ comcast.net wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> Planer "skips" when planing (irregularly) can leave mark on stock
>> when happens.
>
> commonly known as snipe

...


No, the symptom described isn't snipe -- that's the end-effect from a
rocking table or dropping the exit end resulting in taking off more
material from the end few inches.

OP says it "skips" irregularly -- sounds like bad feed rollers,
misadjusted feed pressure combined, perhaps, with dull blades causing
extra cutting work.

Never had one of the "lunchbox" planers so don't have any real hands on
advice for OP on them...have only "big iron" old Rockwell/Powermatic
units which aren't at all comparable in adjustments/setup, unfortunately
for that purpose.

--

[OFWW]

He did mention that he had a bad link in the chain, and now it runs
ok. That would sure explain the "skip".

[dpb]

On 02/11/2016 4:22 PM, OFWW wrote:
...

> He did mention that he had a bad link in the chain, and now it runs
> ok. That would sure explain the "skip".

Ayup, seems like it would at that... :)

The headers for the thread are corrupted apparently so only saw the
above incorrect statement of what the symptom was...

--

[Leon]

Yeah that is not right.

[Leon]

At least it explains that it is not snipe. ;~)

[dpb]

<chuckles> Yeah, didn't think there needed to be that confusing the
issue even though I didn't have a klew regarding the real cause having
never even run a board thru somebody else's lunchbox. :)

I presume from the other posting they must use a cog belt for the drive
and he (OP) lost one or more teeth. On either of mine a bad link in
drive chain goes, everything comes to a (very sudden) halt.

This is the little guy; the PM-180 is all gear-driven with a matched set
3-pulley drive. (The green round "knob" in the picture is the pressure
clutch for the variable speed drive; it's a split pulley mounted on the
casting withe lever arm; pulling up increases speed).

Not actually mine, but same machine...

<http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=13838>

The PM is quite a lot heftier yet...but don't need more than 13" a lot
of the time.

The one I have came from a furniture manufacturing facility where they
had 27(!) of them arranged in 9 rows of three--each was set precisely to
process arriving stock to specific final thickness in the three passes.
These were replaced with a set of 6 of the PM Model 180s in an attempt
in the mid-70s to cut manpower overhead and remain viable.
Unfortunately, the moved only staved of the inevitable by maybe 10 years
or so.

--

[Leon]

My very first thought of that picture was that of a double over head
valve cam engine with the timing cover removed. LOL

Cool machine.

[dpb]

On 02/12/2016 12:04 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2016 10:32 AM, dpb wrote:

...

>> This is the little guy; the PM-180 is all gear-driven with a matched set
>> 3-pulley drive. (The green round "knob" in the picture is the pressure
>> clutch for the variable speed drive; it's a split pulley mounted on the
>> casting withe lever arm; pulling up increases speed).
>
> My very first thought of that picture was that of a double over head
> valve cam engine with the timing cover removed. LOL
>
> Cool machine.

...

It's very handy, indeed. The fella' who cleaned up the one in the
picture (first one w/ the cover off showing drive I found) did a nice
job on painting and all; the silver/black looks good. _BUT_, the
originals were an off-white/Delta machinery gray.

The PM is old enough it's from the green era before the gold; not sure
just when that was and don't know the precise date for it. My PM66 TS
that bought new and picked up at the factory outside McMinnville around
'80+/- a year or two started out green but was repainted gold before I
picked it up so it was in the transition time period...

I'm pretty sure the planer predates that by at least 10 year and
probably 20 or more...

I've an old hybrid Walker-Turner/Rockwell 3/4" spindle shaper that came
from a shop on the VCU campus in Richmond that dates to the late
40s/early 50s. Many of the basic castings have identical casting
numbers to those still being produced by Delta before the buyout and
they went totally to pot...

--

[Leon]

On 2/12/2016 12:28 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 02/12/2016 12:04 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 2/12/2016 10:32 AM, dpb wrote:
> ...
>
>>> This is the little guy; the PM-180 is all gear-driven with a matched set
>>> 3-pulley drive. (The green round "knob" in the picture is the pressure
>>> clutch for the variable speed drive; it's a split pulley mounted on the
>>> casting withe lever arm; pulling up increases speed).
>>
>> My very first thought of that picture was that of a double over head
>> valve cam engine with the timing cover removed. LOL
>>
>> Cool machine.
> ...
>
> It's very handy, indeed. The fella' who cleaned up the one in the
> picture (first one w/ the cover off showing drive I found) did a nice
> job on painting and all; the silver/black looks good. _BUT_, the
> originals were an off-white/Delta machinery gray.
>
> The PM is old enough it's from the green era before the gold; not sure
> just when that was and don't know the precise date for it. My PM66 TS
> that bought new and picked up at the factory outside McMinnville around
> '80+/- a year or two started out green but was repainted gold before I
> picked it up so it was in the transition time period...
>
> I'm pretty sure the planer predates that by at least 10 year and
> probably 20 or more...

IIRC when I was looking for my first cabinet saw in 1998 the local store
had green Powermatics. If memory serves me well the PM 2000, a couple
of years later, was the beginning of the "Gold Standard" colors.

I could be FOS but I do recall the green but I was not that in tune with
PM up until the late 90's when I wanted to upgrade my TS.

And then for a short time since then you could order one of several
colors, some with flames. Geez... LOL

[dpb]

On 02/12/2016 2:24 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2016 12:28 PM, dpb wrote:

...

>> The PM is old enough it's from the green era before the gold; not sure
>> just when that was and don't know the precise date for it. My PM66 TS
>> that bought new and picked up at the factory outside McMinnville around
>> '80+/- a year or two started out green but was repainted gold before I
>> picked it up so it was in the transition time period...
>>
>> I'm pretty sure the planer predates that by at least 10 year and
>> probably 20 or more...
>
> IIRC when I was looking for my first cabinet saw in 1998 the local store
> had green Powermatics. If memory serves me well the PM 2000, a couple of
> years later, was the beginning of the "Gold Standard" colors.
>
> I could be FOS but I do recall the green but I was not that in tune with
> PM up until the late 90's when I wanted to upgrade my TS.

...

I think there was a period when they went back to the green after had
kinda' "lost their way" w/ the Jet purchase and all...but the original
switch from green was definitely well before that time. I don't
remember the _exact_ year of purchase but know it was within a year or
to of the move from VA to TN and that was in summer '78...so I'd give it
'81 or maybe '82 at the very latest.

Not that it really matters all that much, just was kinda' surprised when
the first chip showed the green underneath... :) And, this isn't
identically the same gold they use now, now are brighter/more yellow
than this was, even new...

I coveted the Model 66 from the old codger's shop in Lynchburg I've
talked about and got by with the old DeWalt RAS until could finally
swing it instead of doing something lesser and being dissatisfied. I
truly wanted a Model 26 shaper but got the little 1/2" spindle Delta as
a starter and eventually found the above Walker-Turner cheap. Those
were days long before the router was what they are today, of course.

--

[Leon]

On 2/12/2016 3:41 PM, dpb wrote:
> On 02/12/2016 2:24 PM, Leon wrote:
>> On 2/12/2016 12:28 PM, dpb wrote:
> ...
>
>>> The PM is old enough it's from the green era before the gold; not sure
>>> just when that was and don't know the precise date for it. My PM66 TS
>>> that bought new and picked up at the factory outside McMinnville around
>>> '80+/- a year or two started out green but was repainted gold before I
>>> picked it up so it was in the transition time period...
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure the planer predates that by at least 10 year and
>>> probably 20 or more...
>>
>> IIRC when I was looking for my first cabinet saw in 1998 the local store
>> had green Powermatics. If memory serves me well the PM 2000, a couple of
>> years later, was the beginning of the "Gold Standard" colors.
>>
>> I could be FOS but I do recall the green but I was not that in tune with
>> PM up until the late 90's when I wanted to upgrade my TS.
> ...
>
> I think there was a period when they went back to the green after had
> kinda' "lost their way" w/ the Jet purchase and all...but the original
> switch from green was definitely well before that time. I don't
> remember the _exact_ year of purchase but know it was within a year or
> to of the move from VA to TN and that was in summer '78...so I'd give it
> '81 or maybe '82 at the very latest.

Got it, that makes sense and certainly not strange swapping colors.

>
> Not that it really matters all that much, just was kinda' surprised when
> the first chip showed the green underneath... :) And, this isn't
> identically the same gold they use now, now are brighter/more yellow
> than this was, even new...

Yeah I recall one of the golds looking kind'a like what I thought as
being not as attractive as the current gold. I'll not mention what I
really called it. ;~) So yours is absolutely from the the old school
bullet proof models I would imagine.

IIRC pictures of old PM trunions being almost intimidating. Is yours
massive? I really recall them being huge compared to the more modern PM
trunions.

>
> I coveted the Model 66 from the old codger's shop in Lynchburg I've
> talked about and got by with the old DeWalt RAS until could finally
> swing it instead of doing something lesser and being dissatisfied. I
> truly wanted a Model 26 shaper but got the little 1/2" spindle Delta as
> a starter and eventually found the above Walker-Turner cheap. Those
> were days long before the router was what they are today, of course.
>
> --

Yeah!

[dpb]

On 02/12/2016 6:00 PM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/12/2016 3:41 PM, dpb wrote:

...

>> Not that it really matters all that much, just was kinda' surprised when
>> the first chip showed the green underneath... :) And, this isn't
>> identically the same gold they use now, now are brighter/more yellow
>> than this was, even new...
>
> Yeah I recall one of the golds looking kind'a like what I thought as
> being not as attractive as the current gold. I'll not mention what I
> really called it. ;~) So yours is absolutely from the the old school
> bullet proof models I would imagine.
>
> IIRC pictures of old PM trunions being almost intimidating. Is yours
> massive? I really recall them being huge compared to the more modern PM
> trunions.

...

I've thought of repainting it to the modern gold but am sure never will
:) I don't know of any place to get the old color but I suspect part of
the reason this generation were as dark as they were was that they all
wear a green "primer" coat!

As for "massive" trunnions, they're hefty, certainly, but "they are what
they are" in judging as I've not really compared to anything newer.
I've never seen one of the new generation other than in pictures so
can't really comment. I know the total weight is at least comparable,
but that's all I can say.

Actually, on reflection, the 66 is by far and away the newest of the
large iron pieces I've got--both planers and jointer date from 60s/70s
and the shaper is early to maybe mid-50s. I regret it but I passed on
bringing an old (1930s) Crescent 24" jointer that was offered from one
of the TVA shops when we came back to the farm...

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/images/16979-A.jpg

--

[dpb]

...

Inquiring minds and all that... :)

From a thread at OWMM ca 2007...

<http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/paintcolorspowermatic.ashx>

Gray / Grey thru 1958
Vista / Pea Green 1959 - 1969
Evergreen / Metallic Green 1970 - 1981
Metallic Gold 1 1982 - 1993
Metallic Gold 2 (1977 GM Cadillac Sovereign Gold Metallic 1994 - 1995
Mustard Yellow 1996 - Present


Some of them guys have _way_ too little otherwise to do!!! <vbg>

So, from this it must've been the '81-'82 transition when I bought the
66. I looked in the drawer where I dumped all the shop books and stuff
from the TN move and found the manual but the invoice wasn't with it so
can't confirm for absolute certain the exact date. I do recall it was
pretty early spring when drove over to pick it up as considered a side
trip to one of the many nurseries in the area over there but ended up not...

--

[Leon]

That is very cool! So that Mustard Yellow must'a been the tint that
caught my eye originally. And 1977 Cadillac Gold! PEA Green!
I absolutely remember all of that. LOL I always thought that the new
gold kind'a had a greenish brownish cast to it.

Now let's talk about your hoarding problem. LOL...

I'm just pulling your leg!

About a year go I was going through my dad's old paperwork and records.
I believe I am going to keep a particular one. It was a change of
ownership license receipt from Oklahoma. This receipt is dated 1949 for
the purchase of a 1941 Buick. ;~)

Do you recall when receipts had a spot for the date and certain
certainties were preprinted? Like 194_, and you fill in the 9.

[Leon]

Is this it, the color?

http://www.contractortalk.com/attachments/f13/23648-what-size-kind-planer-planer-001.jpg

And more recently, the flames..

http://twwcdn.thewoodwhisperer.netdna-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/dsc02250.jpg

[dpb]

On 02/13/2016 7:53 PM, Leon wrote:
...

> Is this it, the color?

...

I'm not sure 'cuz of the lighting but I think that's the lighter, later
"Cadillac" gold era...

This one looks pretty close on my monitor, at least ... and mine is also
of the era still with that big square heavy metal box over the motor
mount rather than the formed metal or (later) plastic...

<http://www.streamlineworkspace.com/thumbs/item/1024x768/31283/18851/r_15-1.jpg>

If'en I had a enabled picture-taker w/o having to use the cable link to
upload, I'd just go take a few...but I don't so it's sorta' a pain. :)

--

[Leon]

Well thanks anyway, it's not important, just interesting. And thanks
for clearing up the green to gold to green to gold models.

[dpb]

On 02/14/2016 8:52 AM, Leon wrote:
> On 2/14/2016 8:35 AM, dpb wrote:
...

>> This one looks pretty close on my monitor, at least ... and mine is also
>> of the era still with that big square heavy metal box over the motor
>> mount rather than the formed metal or (later) plastic...
>>
>> <http://www.streamlineworkspace.com/thumbs/item/1024x768/31283/18851/r_15-1.jpg>

...

> Well thanks anyway, it's not important, just interesting. And thanks for
> clearing up the green to gold to green to gold models.

I knew _something_ wasn't right on that picture; it dawned on me -- mine
has chromed wheels instead of the black. The decal in that picture
looks almost black; it's really the dark green w/ red and white stripes--

<http://www.johngweber.com/jgw/saws/o1102b.jpg>

It's kinda' fun; agreed it isn't important... :) I've got some tasks I
really want to finish up today (the stand for the Tormek being one, I
ran out of time yesterday afternoon to finish the drawer for the
accessories before cleaning up to go to town for the local community
college ball games and it's still too cold this morning) so just
piddlin' for a little while before church...

--

[dpb]

On 02/13/2016 7:53 PM, Leon wrote:
...

>> Now let's talk about your hoarding problem. LOL...
>>
>> I'm just pulling your leg!
>>
>> About a year go I was going through my dad's old paperwork and records.
>> I believe I am going to keep a particular one. It was a change of
>> ownership license receipt from Oklahoma. This receipt is dated 1949 for
>> the purchase of a 1941 Buick. ;~)
>>
>> Do you recall when receipts had a spot for the date and certain
>> certainties were preprinted? Like 194_, and you fill in the 9.

...

Oh, that's nothin', Leon! :) There's the original loan receipt from
1913 my grandfather and his brother took out for $300 to buy the pair of
mules and other homestake gear when they made the big move from Stafford
County (KS) to the place here the following year.

I've also got copies (nearly pristine condition) of the owners books for
the old McCormick-Deering 10-20

<http://www.tractorshed.com/photoads/upload/341393_opt.jpg>

and the old Twin City 20-35. Don't think (fact am certain :) ) grandpa
ever pulled three binders at a time, but we still used an identical one
through the early 60s...it finally was sold to a Mennonite farmer when
Dad had his retirement sale in the early '90s; had been out in the shed
ever since.

<http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/uw/id/3891/rec/1>

And that's just a bare sampling of the "stuff" that's still around... :)

--

[Leon]

On 2/14/2016 9:32 AM, dpb wrote:
> On 02/13/2016 7:53 PM, Leon wrote:
> ...
>
>>> Now let's talk about your hoarding problem. LOL...
>>>
>>> I'm just pulling your leg!
>>>
>>> About a year go I was going through my dad's old paperwork and records.
>>> I believe I am going to keep a particular one. It was a change of
>>> ownership license receipt from Oklahoma. This receipt is dated 1949 for
>>> the purchase of a 1941 Buick. ;~)
>>>
>>> Do you recall when receipts had a spot for the date and certain
>>> certainties were preprinted? Like 194_, and you fill in the 9.
> ...
>
> Oh, that's nothin', Leon! :) There's the original loan receipt from
> 1913 my grandfather and his brother took out for $300 to buy the pair of
> mules and other homestake gear when they made the big move from Stafford
> County (KS) to the place here the following year.

LOL You got me there!

>
> I've also got copies (nearly pristine condition) of the owners books for
> the old McCormick-Deering 10-20
>
> <http://www.tractorshed.com/photoads/upload/341393_opt.jpg>
>
> and the old Twin City 20-35. Don't think (fact am certain :) ) grandpa
> ever pulled three binders at a time, but we still used an identical one
> through the early 60s...it finally was sold to a Mennonite farmer when
> Dad had his retirement sale in the early '90s; had been out in the shed
> ever since.
>
> <http://www.digitalhorizonsonline.org/cdm/singleitem/collection/uw/id/3891/rec/1>
>
>
> And that's just a bare sampling of the "stuff" that's still around... :)
>
> --

Some of those "old" instruction manuals are a delight to read.

My uncle gave me a book on proper maintenance of a vehicle and how to
properly drive a vehicle, back in the early 70's when I was learning to
drive. He kind'a grinned when he handed it to me, he got it from his dad.

I clearly remember that the operator of a vehicle should regularly check
and oil as needed the leather clutch plate on the transmission.

Further it advised that only a "show off" would attempt to drive up an
incline on a road with out downshifting.

Those were different times. ;~)

[right...@gmail.com]

Hi All
I need to replace the large springs . Does anybody knows how to remove them and put back together.
Cheers
Jason