Thanks for your time,
Chip
You have to ask yourself a couple of questions:
Do I think I'm gonna go nuts over scroll sawing?
Do I think I'm gonna try to sell anything I make?
What kinda stuff do I want to scroll?
Here's my two cents:
Don't settle for anything less than two speeds. I have the variable
speed 20" Delta, and I can tell you that the slow speeds make a big
difference. The difference between the Hegners/Excaliburs/RBIs and the
20" Delta are like night and day. My saw, though it's a Delta, is
made in Taiwan, and it shows. The castings aren't as heavy, nor the table
as flat as a Hegner. One thing going in Delta's favor is it's quick
release mechanism, which now comes stock with the 20". Hegner's
blade holder is not as nice, IMO. The Hegner, overall, is far superior. But,
to get variable speed, and 18" throat capacity, you're going to have to
shell out nearly $1,000.
Some friends I met at a recent scroll saw class had the same machine as
I do. They wore theirs out. They were using it about 20 hours a week,
mostly on the weekend. They went crazy, making puzzles, knick-knacks, and
other country stuff. They couldn't make it fast enough. People at craft
fairs go nuts for this stuff. Go figure. I brought a sample of the
junk I had turned out, and some blue-haired lady offered me $35 for it.
I should have quit computer-doinking right there and then.
For sawing thick material, I wouldn't recommend the Delta 20", as it
bogs down pretty easily. The Delta 18", OTOH (about $800) is a monster,
and cuts more like a recipricating bandsaw :).
Since you said you're just starting out, it's hard to tell how addicting
it'll be. Chances are, you'll get addicted, and if you do, you'll always
be sorry you bought a cheap machine. Right now, I wish I'd saved up the
cash (or plunked down the plastic), and bought an RBI Hawk.
Good luck, and happy tool-drooling!
Patrick
Just say No self-respecting Neanderthal would own/use one, but that
never stopped me!
I got a radial arm saw instead. (Yes, this is part of why I was depressed;
I *really* wanted to try that new tool out!)
I returned the RAS today and got the scroll saw.
I'll let you know what I think next week.
_Deirdre
I own a Delta 2-speed 16" saw. I am not sure I would buy it again. I
have a friend whos' saw motor "went out" after a fairly short period
of time. The symptoms were that the motor would "stall" when turned
on and you could get it going by "helping" one of the arms. It
eventually failed completely (right Steve?). Anyway, my saw is
starting to exhibit the EXACT SAME symptoms.
I don't know if this problem is due to dirty contacts or accumulation
of dust in some critical motor part, but I am not excited about having
to have this repaired.
Besides the motor problem the thing is just dang noisy. My wife says
it sounds like a sewing machine running amouk.
2" thick walnut? I think not. 1" does OK if you take it slow.
Thicker... 2"? I would not even attempt.
The Hegner or RBI are probably much better saws. I got to play on an
RBI for about an hour and was very impressed. Very quiet, very fast.
It has a much larger stroke (some thing like 40% more) than the Delta
2-speed. But its price (ouch!). Expensive, but probably worth it.
Don't know about the Hegner or the other higher end Deltas.
Maybe my (our) saws are just lemons, but I bet they are all the same.
My 2cents worth. Flames welcome. Let the diversions begin.
Ken
: Since you said you're just starting out, it's hard to tell how addicting
: it'll be. Chances are, you'll get addicted, and if you do, you'll always
: be sorry you bought a cheap machine. Right now, I wish I'd saved up the
: cash (or plunked down the plastic), and bought an RBI Hawk.
O'Deen,
How about some more details? Why are Hegners/Excaliburs/RBI's better?
Is it vibration? Accuracy? Something else?
How does the Hegner compare to the RBI?
How do you keep from blowing chunks when you see some of the cutsey patterns
in those scroll-saw books? ( :-) for the humor impaired ).
-gp"not behind bars yet"h
I bought a cheap Delta saw years ago;a taiwanese machine,I think with the
Delta name on it, and it has caused me nothing but grief since.The new
models may be a different story.No one has too much bad to say about a
Hegner but a saw you should consider also is the Excalibur.I trialed one
a while back and it works like a dream. Any boaters out there interested
in my old one?--
> I own a Delta 2-speed 16" saw. I am not sure I would buy it again. I
> have a friend whos' saw motor "went out" after a fairly short period
> of time. The symptoms were that the motor would "stall" when turned
> on and you could get it going by "helping" one of the arms. It
> eventually failed completely (right Steve?). Anyway, my saw is
> starting to exhibit the EXACT SAME symptoms.
Ah, ya woke me up, I'z sleeping. OK.... Where were we:
Yep, I replaced my motor in about 4 months. I was using it 20+ hours per
week for a craft show for the wife. I was showing the old motor to Ken last
night and the shaft appears to not be 100% true. "Helping" the arm is a
guaranteed way to break one, well it did for me anyway. I would not buy
another one for different reasons. For a saw under $200.00 I got what I
expected.
> I don't know if this problem is due to dirty contacts or accumulation
> of dust in some critical motor part, but I am not excited about having
> to have this repaired.
Actually, my last root canal was more exciting when about replacing the
motor again. I was in a "hurry" and didn't have time for the yokels at
local Delta service center replace the motor even though it was still under
warenty. It took them three weeks to get the lower arm replaced and never
addressed the problem, which was the motor.
> Besides the motor problem the thing is just dang noisy. My wife says
> it sounds like a sewing machine running amouk.
Again yes, I wear ear plugs when running my saw for extended periods of
time. Out of fairness, on these < $200.00 saws, I gotten to use the Dremel
16" and Craftsman 15" and they are all noisy.
> 2" thick walnut? I think not. 1" does OK if you take it slow.
> Thicker... 2"? I would not even attempt.
Again yes. I just tried a Universal #12 blade and was finally able to cut
1" walnut without burning. Ken bought over some samples he cut with a
Universal #7 that had a minimal amount of burn. BTW with greater number of
tpi blade, I was getting burn on oak, sycamore and white poplar.
> The Hegner or RBI are probably much better saws. I got to play on an
> RBI for about an hour and was very impressed. Very quiet, very fast.
> It has a much larger stroke (some thing like 40% more) than the Delta
> 2-speed. But its price (ouch!). Expensive, but probably worth it.
> Don't know about the Hegner or the other higher end Deltas.
I've only seen the sales ringers work these guys so nothing to share first
hand. I'm avoiding the CO Wood Working Show next month here in Denver just
so I don't have to see these machines in action. Yeah, my wife told me
anymore power tools and she's gonna leave.... I'm sure gonna miss her.
> Maybe my (our) saws are just lemons, but I bet they are all the same.
> My 2cents worth. Flames welcome. Let the diversions begin.
All in all the saw has literally paid for itself easily 5 times over in
what the wife and I have done with crafting, so for that it's been good. I
could have dispensed with the motor/arm problem, but.... that's over with
now. If I'd waited until I had the coins for the topend saws, I'd probably
still be waiting. I can now justify both to my wife and myself the
purchase of a highend saw when the Delta finally has it. It has been a
good saw to learn techniques and the craft business. Hey, who said
education was cheap, anyway?
Steve
>: being cheaper at the show) whereas Delta (a company I've heard nothing
>: but raves about here) has one with a 16" throat, the same 2" thickness,
>: but with two speeds, and Harbor Freight Tools has it for $190. As a
>I own a Delta 2-speed 16" saw. I am not sure I would buy it again. I
>have a friend whos' saw motor "went out" after a fairly short period
>of time. The symptoms were that the motor would "stall" when turned
>on and you could get it going by "helping" one of the arms. It
>eventually failed completely (right Steve?). Anyway, my saw is
>starting to exhibit the EXACT SAME symptoms.
>I don't know if this problem is due to dirty contacts or accumulation
>of dust in some critical motor part, but I am not excited about having
>to have this repaired.
>Besides the motor problem the thing is just dang noisy. My wife says
>it sounds like a sewing machine running amouk.
>2" thick walnut? I think not. 1" does OK if you take it slow.
>Thicker... 2"? I would not even attempt.
>The Hegner or RBI are probably much better saws. I got to play on an
>RBI for about an hour and was very impressed. Very quiet, very fast.
>It has a much larger stroke (some thing like 40% more) than the Delta
>2-speed. But its price (ouch!). Expensive, but probably worth it.
>Don't know about the Hegner or the other higher end Deltas.
>Maybe my (our) saws are just lemons, but I bet they are all the same.
>My 2cents worth. Flames welcome. Let the diversions begin.
>Ken
I bought the Sears model 6 months ago. It performs flawlessly and is
quiet and vibration free. The deep throat makes large cuttings a
breeze. The variable speed is great. The only problem is the insert
does not sit flush with the table surface and I had to shim it up
1/132. I checked and tried all saws except for the Hegner whose price
pretty near dropped me.
My two cents worth.
Dave
I don't own a scroll saw, and have never used one. However, a year or more
back I went to a woodworking show and saw an impressive demo of the
Excalibur. The guy passed a block of 3/4" walnut and a ball point pen into
the audience and asked someone to sign their name on the block (it had
a sheet of paper stuck to it).
The salesperson then proceeded to cut the signature out of the block. He
literally cut on either side of the pen line. It was passed around, and in
most places the cut was right up to the line. The guy who's signature it
was wanted to keep it, btw.
The Excalibur's blade moves up and down. There is no side to side nor
front to back nor rotational movement, just up and down.
Excaliburs as expensive as the Hegners.
- Bennett Leeds
ben...@mv.us.adobe.com
I posted a major tool drool about Hegner, RBI, and Delta's 18" industrial
scroll saws last year. If you missed it, too bad :-). I made a special
trip to gang-infested Pomona, CA (the SoCal folks know what I mean), to
the L.A. County Fair, just for rec.ww. :-)
If I had it to again, I would have purchased one of these machines.
Steve Butti (aka WRBF, Boots, Steve-a-reeno) is right when he says the
low-end machines won't hold up. The lower-priced machines are not
meant to be run 20 hours a week. OTOH, it's better than nothing, and
this crafty stuff makes money.
These high-end machines are designed to stand up to industrial use.
I have no doubt that they could do it.
We could call this scroll saw B&G if you want.
This is from my failing memory, so Hegner/RBI/Delta owners, feel free
to correct/delete/laugh, but please no scoffing. I'm especially sensitive
to scoffing. Here goes:
>
> How does the Hegner compare to the RBI? (or Delta)
The Hegner saws are cast iron, except for the table, which is aluminum.
The steel stand has a smaller footprint than the RBI, but same as Delta.
I didn't particularly like the table, because it looked a little thin.
But, the demo machines were dead flat (Oh, is that a straight-edge in
my pocket? How did that get there? Mind if I lay it on this table?)
The table is roughly rectangular, with a slot in it to enable easy
blade removal. The RBI table looks like an aluminum banjo, and extends
the full depth of the throat. I can't remember if it has a slot, or
hole w/insert. My brains are failing, aaaargh! The Delta table has
a hole, with an insert: my least favorite configuration. The Delta
has a cast iron table, decently ribbed. Favorite table: RBI.
The Hegner machine I got to play on was the 18" model. The blade-changing
mechanism was a little hokey, IMO, in that to remove the blade, you
released the tension, and put the blade in some special holder to
pull off the two end-thingies (my mind really is going). The RBI
blade removal was similar. IMO, blade changes are easier
on the Hegner and RBI. I don't really change blades that often. I find
my self just releasing the top of the blade, so I can poke it through
the next hole in the scroll work. So, Delta wins that contest, but blade
changes on the Delta border on painful.
I believe that Hegner and Delta are C-arm, and RBI uses parallel arms
to hold the blades. I may be wrong on the Hegner. Again, memory, age,
exposure to Sears tools....
The difference between C-arm and parallel-arm machines is that the
C-arm will make a slightly elliptical cut, where a parallel-arm
machine cuts straight up and down, therefore supposedley more accurate.
The advantage of the C-arm is that it's supposedly more rigid, and
stays aligned better, therefore better accuracy. All I know is that
a "potential customer", maybe a ringer, was cutting out brass reindeer
no bigger than a finger nail, using the Hegner. To see the detail,
you needed a magnifying glass. I was impressed. Accuracy: Hegner.
Hegner is the ugliest color orange I've ever seen.
The Delta is it's usual "buff", the RBI, polished aluminum on a
brick-red stand. Appearance: Delta.
RBI offers the largest throat capacity - 26". It is made of cast, machined,
polished aluminum. It's a beautiful machine, period. It's dust blower
was best, IMHO. It's rear tensioning cam might be inconvenient for small
people, as it's way in the back. I find myself always fiddling with
the tension, and I preferred the Delta and Hegner adjusting knobs.
If an RBI owner can explain the Hawk's auto-tensioning thingy, I'd like
to hear about it. Tensioning: Delta.
The RBI and Hegner tables tilt side to side, the Delta tilts in all
directions; pretty cool for compound cuts. I saw the Delta guy do some
compound stuff that was mind-blowing. Not sure what you'd do with it,
but is was neat-o. Table tilt: Delta.
I can't recall the specs on the motors, but I do recall that the
Delta cut through some 2" Oak (I just happened to bring along) rather
easily (#7 double-tooth blade). The nice thing about the Delta is its
digital speed control. This is no new technology, it's just nice to
have on a scroll saw. For those of you who don't know, the saw detects
if it's bogging down (at lower speeds), and applies more power to keep
the speed constant. It's weird at first. Power/speed control: Delta.
None of these saws vibrates appreciably, even at full speed. I tried the
nickel test on all but the RBI (he was tired of me, and chased me away...
I bought some books and blades to placate him). Vibration: Pick 'em.
The spring steel hold-down on the Delta was my favorite, though
I usually eschew the hold-down when cutting. The Delta had a trammel
arm for attaching circle-cutting jigs. No need for drilled holes here. :)
The one saw I have never test-driven is the Excalibur, and from the
crowing I've heard from owners (who have had other saws), it's
far and away the best. Sounds like MTBTYT, though.
Overall, you can't go wrong with any of these machines. I would stay
away from the smaller Hegners, if only for the reason that if you're
going to shell out $600 - $1000+ on a high-end scroll saw, you might
as well pony-up for variable speed and increased throat capacity.
I also test drove a ShopSmith, but it wasn't worth mentioning, except
to say that it's better than my 20" VS Delta, but not $400 better, IMO.
A couple of final notes about scroll saws in general. Using the proper
blade can go a long way toward getting nice results. Even the demo
people broke blades when I handed them some 4/4 hard maple, padauk, brown
oak, and bubinga pieces to cut. Don't ever buy one of these machines
without getting to try it for at least 30 minutes, on a piece of wood
you brought with you. Make 'em throw in some extra goodies if you buy.
I'm going to the SoCal WW show next week, to terrorize some more scroll saw
salespeople. Should be fun :-)
>
> How do you keep from blowing chunks when you see some of the cutsey patterns
> in those scroll-saw books? ( :-) for the humor impaired ).
I don't. I have a barf bag handy. Funny thing is, those cutsey patterns
are rather profitable. Go figure.
Patrick
Let them know that you are the "Internet Scroll Saw Reporter". Who knows
maybe they might try sucking up a little :-)
I refer to the cutesy things that my wife wants me to make as "Pukey Ducks"
or "PDs". It is important that the wife proceives the value of you having
tools, even if this means an occasional evening or weekend of PD duty.
Dave Van Ess
> I refer to the cutesy things that my wife wants me to make as "Pukey Ducks"
> or "PDs". It is important that the wife proceives the value of you having
> tools, even if this means an occasional evening or weekend of PD duty.
Amen, brother. Hell has no fury like a woman's scorn..... 'specilly if ya
enter her clean home full of sawdust and no trinket in your hand for her.
Steve
I was in a gift shop with my wife when I saw some country primive wood
cutouts. They were farm animals painted with milk paint and mounted to
a small wooden base with 4 wooden wheels. I thought them to be a bit
cheesey but my wife explained that they were quite popular. I decided I
would make one. I made a cow. But to be different, I painted Xs were it's
eyes should be and mounted it upside down on it's litte cart. That's
right, I made a dead cow. After all it's part of the circle of life stuff
that makes Elton John so much money. They all die.
Anyway I gave it to a friend who collects cows. She loved it. It sits
on a table in the front hallway of her house. I find that there are two
kinds of people. Those that find this extrememly funny and those who find
it extremely sick. I cut out a cedar ornament for some friends that own
a dairy. I also gave them a bag of cedar dust. One represents the
productive cow the other the hamburger they become when they're not.
I have a dear friend who we make it a point to be rude to each other. For
Her birthday a made her a teddy bear shaker peg rack for her robe. It is
a frontal teddy bear with the shaker peg strategicially placed. What I
like about it is that there is about 5% of the population that when they see
it say, "Oh that it lovely, could you make one for my grandchild" Everyone
else just laughs. Whenever I visit her I threaten to check it for teeth marks.
Sometime if you guys ask real nice I'll tell about Mrs Bear that I made for
her birthday the next year.
Dave Van Ess
How about some simple, but classical, heraldry or calligraphy?
There's no reason everything has to be "American country cute" just
because it's made on a scroll saw. Ideas anyone?
--
< Michael A. Covington, Assc Rsch Scientist, Artificial Intelligence Center >
< The University of Georgia, Athens, GA 30602-7415 USA mcov...@ai.uga.edu >
< Unless specifically indicated, I am not speaking for the University. > <><
: How about some simple, but classical, heraldry or calligraphy?
: There's no reason everything has to be "American country cute" just
: because it's made on a scroll saw. Ideas anyone?
Thank God.
Also, there are some incredible gothic patterns that are used for
Lute sound holes, etc. Some of the patterns that were used by
Irish monks to illuminate hand-copied scripture documents, with
serpents and saints intertwined in fascinating geometric mazes
would to very cool done in wood.
Gargoyles are also experiencing a comeback lately.
If I had a scroll saw (a good one) I would likely do some Max Escher
drawings.
Heck, Max even did some ducks...
--
*******************************************************************************
*G. Paul Houtz * "Leave it as it is. You cannot improve on it. The *
*Hewlett Packard * "ages have been at work and man can only mar it." *
*gph@zeppelin\ * -Theodore Roosevelt *
*.pa.itc.hp.com * "Of what value are forty freedoms without a blank" *
* * "spot on the map?" -Aldo Leopold *
*******************************************************************************
Yes, heraldic designs are neat. I'm doing some Celtic knotwork designs
(adapted from stencil designs) for a mirror I'm planning to do. The frame
would be around the mirror and the knotwork would be a border in front of
the mirror about 4" wide -- sort of an extended frame.
_Deirdre
And the quantity of farmers in this area who have Holstein everything is
truly amazing. I won't even go into the milk pitcher I saw....
Most woodworkers here sell whirligigs and wells and adirondack chairs --
and people buy them in droves.
_Deirdre
In article <3nlolf$4...@moci.software.rockwell.com>, Mike Huber
<mike....@software.rockwell.com> wrote:
> Half my grandparents were farmers, and cute country crafts
> are an insult to them.
[Stuff about PDs and dead cows deleted... :-)]
>Sometime if you guys ask real nice I'll tell about Mrs Bear that I made for
>her birthday the next year.
Oh please, please, please, please, please, please, please, please ...
--
Steve Burling Phone: (313) 763-4905
ITD Research Systems Internet: Steve....@umich.edu
535 West William Street
Ann Arbor, MI 48103-4943
I have a book in front of me that I'm planning to use to set up
some carvings:
Celtic Design - A Beginner's Manual
by Aidan Meehan, Thames and Hudson, 1993
Haven't tried much out of it yet (just got the book yesterday)
but it looks like there might be some good stuff here. It's
aimed at calligraphy, but the designs look carvable.
About a year ago I got a different book by Aidan Meehan (I believe) on
Celtic Knotwork. I copied some of the simpler knots, fired up my
scroll saw and my carving chisels, and made a couple of Christmas
ornaments. Neat stuff!
--
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Will Duquette, JPL | William.H...@jpl.nasa.gov
But I speak only | wi...@hal9000.jpl.nasa.gov
for myself. | It's amazing what you can do with the right tools.
I will. The cow I got for my mom-in-law "pukes" milk into your bowl,
glass, whatever. Charming, eh? :)
>
>Most woodworkers here sell whirligigs and wells and adirondack chairs --
>and people buy them in droves.
Even here in flash-and-dash SoCal, whirligigs and such are in
extremely high demand. Though many of us look down our noses
at pukey ducks (PDs), and Holstein whirlygigs, it's just this
kind of stuff that helps people become their own patrons, so to speak.
The more of this stuff I see, the more I realize that a scroll saw is
one of the lowest risk return-on-investment tools you can buy. You can
scrounge scraps, cut out some PDs, and generate hard cash. Not bad.
Of course, you've got to swallow a little pride too.
>
>In article <3nlolf$4...@moci.software.rockwell.com>, Mike Huber
><mike....@software.rockwell.com> wrote:
>
>> Half my grandparents were farmers, and cute country crafts
>> are an insult to them.
I'm curious about this, Mike. My wifes grandparents, all of 'em,
were farmers, and this kind of stuff was everywhere. Good for you,
that you gained some knowledge, and valuable experience. The bottom
line is, once you make the transition from artist/hobbyist to
businessman/artisan, you've got to make what sells, or go broke.
I've found the best customers for PDs are bikers; the Harley-Davidson kind.
Go figure.
__Patrick
It was apparently reproduced on a Xerox machine!
But the thing is, it has to "look local." If it looks professional,
people feel it must have been done by some passing Yankee carpetbagger!
Thanks
Lynn Willis
wil...@indyvax.iupui.edu
I just bought the same planer from Woodworkers Supply of New Mexico etc... and
bought the vac attachment for around 20 bucks I think. (Dollars that is, not
Whitetails.)
Go to a heating/air conditioning supply shop and ask to see some register
boots for hot air systems. I picked up a 3x14 rectangular boot with a 5"
outlet for my Ryobi AP-12 for $5. They have reducers to step the 5" outlet
down to whatever you need for a buck or two more.
Two sheet metal screws attached the thing to the Ryobi, and aside from the
motor noise, you couldn't tell it was working - NO chips come out.
Tom Sidloski
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: Even here in flash-and-dash SoCal, whirligigs and such are in
: extremely high demand. Though many of us look down our noses
: at pukey ducks (PDs), and Holstein whirlygigs, it's just this
: kind of stuff that helps people become their own patrons, so to speak.
I have driven around in SoCal. There are a lot of flash-and-dash
types, especially on Rodeo Drive, but there is also an awful lot
of suburbia. My biggest impression of non-Westwood non-Rodeo
non-Beverly Hills LA--Kitsch is King.
: The more of this stuff I see, the more I realize that a scroll saw is
: one of the lowest risk return-on-investment tools you can buy. You can
: scrounge scraps, cut out some PDs, and generate hard cash. Not bad.
: Of course, you've got to swallow a little pride too.
I'll do almost anything for money. This is pushing it though :-)
: >
: >In article <3nlolf$4...@moci.software.rockwell.com>, Mike Huber
: ><mike....@software.rockwell.com> wrote:
: >
: >> Half my grandparents were farmers, and cute country crafts
: >> are an insult to them.
: I'm curious about this, Mike. My wifes grandparents, all of 'em,
: were farmers, and this kind of stuff was everywhere. Good for you,
: that you gained some knowledge, and valuable experience. The bottom
: line is, once you make the transition from artist/hobbyist to
: businessman/artisan, you've got to make what sells, or go broke.
My grandparents are farmers. Of course, they are Oregon farmers,
which means they have *nothing* in their house (Like the story
about the Oregon farmer who won the California Lottery. When
asked what he would do with the money, he said "I'll just keep
farming until it's gone."). Actually my uncle has a "master crafstman"
tablesaw and a Sears router and makes little country craft pine tables
and stuff and sells them on the side. Does pretty good, too.
They aren't quite as sickening as scroll saw duckies, but I wouldn't
buy one. (No offense, uncle Hank).
Bruno
: Thanks
: Lynn Willis
: wil...@indyvax.iupui.edu
I have the same planer and I too picked up the dust hood for
about 24.00 (CDN). But has anyone run into the problem I have. I know
that maybe i should have a dust collection system attached, but I tried
my 180cfn Sears shop vac and it will not pull the hood clear when I'm
planing. Is anybody else using this hood with a shop vac & if so is it
working.
--
**************************************
* Michael K. Harvey Photographer *
* Halifax, N.S. Canada *
* E-Mail AA...@CFN.CS.DAL.CA *
**************************************
I have virtually the same setup and the same problem. I would say the shop
vac gets 1/3 to maybe 1/2 of the chips and dust and rest ends up
distributed about my workshop. There just is not enough airflow from the
shop vac to keep up with the planer.
> Michael K. Harvey wrote
> > I have the same planer and I too picked up the dust hood for
> > about 24.00 (CDN). But has anyone run into the problem I have. I know
> > that maybe i should have a dust collection system attached, but I tried
> > my 180cfn Sears shop vac and it will not pull the hood clear when I'm
> > planing. Is anybody else using this hood with a shop vac & if so is it
> > working.
The planer needs about 400cfm to keep up. shop vacs won't cut it.