The original plan was wainscot in a morticed and tennoned frame. Now
I'm wondering if I can glue something like this "Ply Bead"
http://www.gp.com/panels/plybdpanels.html to some half inch marine
plywood and use that as a structural part of the bench.
I figure on
1) cutting the panels to size, (largest 25" x 46)
2) spreading two thin layers of Titebond II,
3) placing them on a flat cement floor,
4) sink a couple of brads in the corners to keep things from sliding
and
5) piling sandbags on top
The bench will be painted and is designed to maximize ventilation and
minimize any standing water on the plywood.
Will this work? Please educate a supplicant who would like to do fine
woodworking, but is willing to settle for what he can do between
diaper changes.
Thanks John Schreiber
In your case, the woods aren't nearly as dissimilar as the ones I used, but
I would consider putting the same finish front and back. Try a sample first
if you can.
Preston
"John Schreiber" <schrei...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:49d635c5.03041...@posting.google.com...
> I want to make up a bench for the front porch and if I sacrifice most
> of the "fineness" of the woodworking I might actually get it done this
> summer.
>
> The original plan was wainscot in a morticed and tennoned frame. Now
> I'm wondering if I can glue something like this "Ply Bead"
> http://www.gp.com/panels/plybdpanels.html to some half inch marine
> plywood and use that as a structural part of the bench.
>
> Thanks John Schreiber
>I want to make up a bench for the front porch and if I sacrifice most
>of the "fineness" of the woodworking I might actually get it done this
>summer.
>
>The original plan was wainscot in a morticed and tennoned frame. Now
>I'm wondering if I can glue something like this "Ply Bead"
>http://www.gp.com/panels/plybdpanels.html to some half inch marine
>plywood and use that as a structural part of the bench.
>
>I figure on
>1) cutting the panels to size, (largest 25" x 46)
>2) spreading two thin layers of Titebond II,
>3) placing them on a flat cement floor,
>4) sink a couple of brads in the corners to keep things from sliding
>and
>5) piling sandbags on top
>
I did this procedure to make a 1" thick router-table top. I also used
sandbags, paint cans, jugs filled with water, etc for the weight. It
worked well and turned out very strong and flat. I let the ply
sandwich cure for a few days before machining it. Make it a half inch
bigger than you need and trim it up after it cures.
To dispel some myths (and save some money), I'll explain the
difference between marine grade plywood and CDX exterior plywood as
far as durability. The difference is:
None.
The term "marine grade" in reference to plywood means a pretty outside
ply (Better than grade 'A') so that when you install it in your sloop,
all of your sailing buddies can exclaim, "I say, what a simply
FAAAAbulous boat you have!"
That's all. So, Phisherman, you can save yourself a boatload of $$$
on this project, as can everyone else who believes that marine plywood
has superior weathering resistance.
Ok, I'm off the soapbox.
Phisherman <nob...@noone.com> wrote in message news:<loor9v0i4fn8jm172...@4ax.com>...
> Ok, y'all.
>
> To dispel some myths (and save some money), I'll explain the
> difference between marine grade plywood and CDX exterior plywood as
> far as durability. The difference is:
>
> None.
<snip>
Not quite.
Marine ply that meets 1088 spec and CDX have about one thing in common, they
are both considered plywood.
If you are going to build a plywood boat, marine plywood is the only way to
build it unless you want a BFU boat that will rot out in a few years. I
won't bore you with the details.
If you are NOT building a plywood boat, then the use of marine plywood is
questionable.
I can't think of a single application that is not marine related where
marine plywood would be used.
SFWIW, I will have consumed two (2) units of 1/2", 4 ply, CDX plywood as
core material for the boat I'm building, that is 140 sheets of the stuff.
The plywood is either used as a core material for things such as bulkheads,
where fiberglass is laminated to both sides, totally sealing the plywood or
as sub sole where every piece is sealed in at least 3 coats of epoxy before
final installation which is also with epoxy.
Every square inch of the CDX will spend it's life in a plastic (epoxy)
cocoon in a non flexing mode.
If I tried that same CDX construction technique for either the deck or the
hull, it would be a disaster waiting to happen.
HTH
--
Lew
S/A: Challenge, The Bullet Proof Boat, (Under Construction in the Southland)
Visit: <http://home.earthlink.net/~lewhodgett> for Pictures
You forgot the part about boat plugs not being allowed in 1088 certified or
'built to' standards. Along with the core plys are of the same species of
tree as the skin plys. The complete lack of voids in the core plys and the
delamination standards that 1088 or built to 1088 standards brings with it.
To say that CDX and Marine ply are the same is outright foolishness.
I say this as I am in the middle of a vintage restoration that will put my
rather large butt about 3" away from 120mph water with only 8mm (~3/8")
keeping me from getting wet.
Phil
"Lew Hodgett" <lewho...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:aiBna.27511$ey1.2...@newsread1.prod.itd.earthlink.net...
> Lew,
<snip some 1088 stuff>
> To say that CDX and Marine ply are the same is outright foolishness.
You want an arguement, change the subjec, which was really the point of my
post.
> I say this as I am in the middle of a vintage restoration that will put my
> rather large butt about 3" away from 120mph water with only 8mm (~3/8")
> keeping me from getting wet.
Definitely not my kind of boat, but it takes all kinds.
remember attending some races for the smaller hydroplanes in the quarries
in Dayton, Oh many years ago.
Ye gads, all I can remember is that they made a lot of noise<G>.
- James B
"Preston Andreas" <pand...@satx.rr.com> wrote in message news:<8Plna.89152$vI3.3...@twister.austin.rr.com>...