On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 08:58:02 -0500, Greg Guarino <
gdgu...@gmail.com>
wrote:
>On 1/11/2012 11:15 PM, Larry Jaques wrote:
>> On Wed, 11 Jan 2012 15:13:44 -0500, Greg Guarino<
gdgu...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Used several coats of Waterlox on oak (solid) and birch (ply). I was
>>> advised that applying paste wax with steel wool is a nice way to finish
>>> the process. So how do I do it?
>>>
>>> As a test, I applied some Butcher's Wax to a test piece of the same Oak
>>> that had had the same (3 coats, wiped on) application of Waterlox as my
>>> actual project. I wiped the wax on with a piece of white Scotch Brite,
>>> just to get it on the piece. Then I rubbed it around in an ignorant sort
>>> of way for couple of minutes with some 0000 steel wool, using moderate
>>> pressure.
>>
>> I'm guessing that the finish on the piece is now cured? Good.
>
>As per advice here, it's been more than 30 days, probably 45 days for
>the test scrap. Other than time, how could I determine if it has cured?
An uncured finish of any sort will gum-up sandpaper.
>> I use a light pressure, 2" circular motion, Liberon 0000 (extremely
>> fine, the only brand of wool I'll ever buy again for finishing)
>
>I've got 0000, but not Liberon. Problem?
Not much, but it's like the difference between 220 and 320 grit paper.
Liberon 0000 is much finer than standard 0000. I'd call it 00000 if it
were my decision. The question is: Do you like the resultant matte
finish it leaves? One other tip: If you don't like the wax surface,
you can remove it with mineral spirits, naphtha, or store-boughten wax
remover.
>steel
>> wool, Johnson's Paste Wax,
>
>I used, as I mentioned, an old can (5 years?) of Butcher's Wax Bowling
>Alley Paste. It seemed to be in good condition. Do I need to buy
>something else?
That should work fine. I have some 30+ y/o cans of Johnson's and it
still works for me. I keep a wad of wool in one can for furniture and
a wad of t-shirt material in another for my mailbox door. One neighbor
caught me waxing my door and asked why I did it. We talked for a few
minutes and I buffed it off. Then he tried his mailbox door and mine,
and had me do his door for him. Try yours today! <g>
>and rub it out until I feel the nibs go
>> away, about 3-4 circles/5 seconds on a spot. YOu'll feel it get slick
>> under the steel wool.
>>
>> Now let it dry for 15 minutes (you'll see it cloud over with a dry
>> surface) and buff off with a clean terrycloth towel.
>
>I remember the "clouding over" bit from my teen years. My Dad had me wax
>his (over-large) office desk. If memory serves, I either waited too long
>or put on too much wax. It was definitely a "Karate Kid" ordeal; the
>"wax off" took one hell of a lot of work.
If that happens, put more wax on and don't wait so long. But don't
fight it.
>In any case, I didn't wait quite that long, and I didn't see the "haze".
>I may try the test again to see if I want to employ that method on my
>actual project pieces. The test piece felt awfully nice *before* the
>wax, courtesy of advice from the Rec and a brown Trader Joe's bag.
That'll denib it nicely, too. If you want a shiny waxed surface,
don't use steel wool, use a piece of old t-shirt. The steel wool is
for deglossing it to a matte finish.
--
Make awkward sexual advances, not war.