I'm guessing walnut and maple for contrast and some sort of taper jig or
sled to cut the triangles.
Any tips or plans would be greatly appreciated!
tia,
Michael
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To reply please remove anti spam
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The library has plans
I had thought that I would cut the triangles using a chop saw. Set the angle
you want for the triangle (say 15 degrees?) and chop, flip it over, chop again
from the 'point' of the triangle. Keep flipping and chopping and you'll get a
set of identical triangles. The hard part is fitting them nicely into the
board itself. You could always cut complementary triangles and fit them all
together with a strip down the middle. (a diagram would make this much more
clear)
Tell us what you finally decide on...
CWard96624 wrote:
> >gammon Board
> >From: Michael Poche <dot...@earthlink.net>
> >Date: 12/2/98 12:58 PM Eastern Standard Time
> >Message-id: <36657F...@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Anyone have experience making backgammmon boards?
> >
> >I'm guessing walnut and maple for contrast and some sort of taper jig or
> >sled to cut the triangles.
> >
> >Any tips or plans would be greatly appreciated!
> >
> >tia,
> >Michael
> >--
> >=========================================
> >To reply please remove anti spam
> >"dot" and use the following:
> >mp...@earthlink.net
> >=========================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> The library has plans
> The library has plans
No, YOUR library has plans. MY local library only has what people
felt like donating and has only really been in place for six or
seven years. MY local library is rapidly getting better, however,
it is not to be counted on as a resource.
The internet reaches to many places where the libraries are poor,
don't assume everyone has the same resources you do. You can,
however, assume that, if they can get on the net, they can go
to amazon.com and order a book. I've never seen so much useless
help in usenet as I continuously see on this newsgroup. If you
know of a set of plans then let this individual know, if you can't
be helpful then don't waste the bandwidth.
Roger Books
Michael Poche <dot...@earthlink.net> wrote:
>Anyone have experience making backgammmon boards?
>
>I'm guessing walnut and maple for contrast and some sort of taper jig or
>sled to cut the triangles.
>
>Any tips or plans would be greatly appreciated!
>
>tia,
>Michael
>--
>=========================================
>To reply please remove anti spam
>"dot" and use the following:
>mp...@earthlink.net
>=========================================
>
Remove the mapson. from the email address to get to me...
I hate Cullers who gather from newsgroups
Visit my home page at http://www.esper.com/xvart/index.html
bo...@babinga.dms.state.us wrote in article <36669...@news.hcsys.com>...
> CWard96624 <cward...@aol.com> wrote:
> >>From: Michael Poche <dot...@earthlink.net>
> >>
> >>Anyone have experience making backgammmon boards?
> >>
>
In article <36669...@news.hcsys.com>, <bo...@babinga.dms.state.us> writes:
>If you know of a set of plans then let this individual know, if you can't be
helpful then don't waste the bandwidth.
rbowles96ATaolDOTcom for real E-mail
1. I used walnut and maple for the "points", oak for the background.
I was told that the oak would darken and not the maple, hence I'd
get good contrast. The board was finished with Watco (clear) oil.
Turned out that the maple darkened and not the oak. Also the grain
in the oak is a little too busy for background.
2. I make patterns out of plexiglass for the points and for the six sided
background pieces. I then traced onto the wood, cut almost to size,
then fit each piece one-by-one using a disk sander to approach (but
not pass!) the perfect shape/size. A long process, but surprizingly
controlable and the result was a perfect fit.
As I remember the Fine Woodworking article, they ended up with
more pieces than I did--more glue joints and a less attractive
grain pattern. But, it did seem easier to build.
3. Then each half of the board was glued up: 12 points and 6 background
pieces per half. Had a few scarry moments here as the pieces were
not thick enough--clamping tended to cause buckling and the points
to slide out. Think about some sort of frame to glue up in.
4. Then, through a planner and a bit of edge triming. Then built the bar
and boarders around the two board halves. I used a plywood backing
under everything except the outer frame (but you would be better
off just using thicker pieces (see above comments on glue-up).
The bar and frame are walnut.
5. Before you start, find the markers that you want. After the board
is built, you are constrained in what sizes you can use.
-- robert
Michael Poche wrote:
> Anyone have experience making backgammmon boards?
>
>The library has plans
Your response is the equivalent of asking someone for directions and being
told that maps have directions.
The original poster can find backgammon table/board plans in Popular
Woodworking #34, p 28 and in FWW #33, p 66. Back issues can be ordered from
http://www.popwood.com and http://www.taunton.com/fw or you could check eBay
or, yes, the local library (at least now, however, you know where to
look).
Craig
cr...@patchett.com
P.S. The Web is to a library what a library is to a sentence.
Thanks for your post. Do you know approximately when the Fine
Woodworking article ran?
Do you think making a sled or using a taper jig would work for cutting
the triangles 6-1/2" long by 1-7/16" wide. I think you could do it this
way so they would be exact matches, then resaw them to 1/8"
Michael