I don't sail an IMCO but I race against them at my sailing club. I think
that together with the foot pedel "falling over" they are all like this
I stand to be corrected though.
Is a 1990 IMCO competitive in a race board fleet or are you still new to
this madness?
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Pat
'P19'
P.S. Only 2 more weeks until the Mid-Winters. This weekend was a
'perfect' regatta weekend..... 0 to 5 knots both Saturday and Sunday,
and forecast for today (Monday) is North 20-25!! :-)
--
Patrick Pinchera p...@mlb.semi.harris.com
ICS "If I knew art smelled this good, I would've come here years
Melbourne, FL ago." Melanie Griffith as Billie Dawn in _Born_Yesterday_
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Didnt Mistral give out a larger pedal for the IMCO's so that they
would not 'fall over' (ie. retract) while racing/sailing? Though I own an
IMCO, I didnt install the larger pedal that came with
mine (actually, I lost it before I could install it!)
I dont have any problems with my daggerboard, and I've been quite
happy with the performance of the board. Thought I think the booms are for
crap, and we could loose that mast, but its not bad for a One Design.
--
David C. Troup - DC12
dtr...@carroll1.cc.edu
Riding for...
SEATREND, SIMMER, FIBERSPAR, BODY GLOVE, THULE, TRUE AMES and VISUAL SPEED
They have a little red 'pedal cover' that sells for $2 that goes over
the black pedal and prevents the pedal from flipping back to flush with
the board. I simple, inexpensive, and ingeniuos solution.
Pat
'P19'
No. The dowl 'stop' is installed at the maximum daggerboard down
position. This way you get the same performance with the daggerboard as
was intended.
Remove the gasket and take out the daggerboard cassette and put shims
in each side. Adhesive backed floor tile works very well as does
ding stick. The ideas is to narrow the daggerboard well.
Another tuning method is to stiffen the springs in the buttons of the
daggerboard. 1 or two pennies on each side usually works fine. Remove
the button that stops the movement of the board, a 1/2" socket works well
with a hammer, but be gentile and use a knife to pry apart the button.
Insert the pennies between the spring and the center spacer.
The result of the above is a stiffer moving daggerboard that does not
wobble, go too deep in the well and does not fall down when reaching
at high speeds through large chop.
Good Luck and keep sailing your One Design and look for ways to grow the
fleet.
Bill Martinson
US-940
: The pin in the daggerboard is a great fix, but you still have another
: potential problem which is slop in the daggerboard well, which means
: that the daggerboard is moving side to side.
: Remove the gasket and take out the daggerboard cassette and put shims
: in each side. Adhesive backed floor tile works very well as does
: ding stick. The ideas is to narrow the daggerboard well.
: Another tuning method is to stiffen the springs in the buttons of the
: daggerboard. 1 or two pennies on each side usually works fine. Remove
: the button that stops the movement of the board, a 1/2" socket works well
: with a hammer, but be gentile and use a knife to pry apart the button.
: Insert the pennies between the spring and the center spacer.
Are all these modifications "legal" in IMCO racing????
Does anyone know exactly what modifications can be made to the equipment:
I am particularly interest (on top of the dagerboard problem) in using the
new carbon mast, add-on adjustable down/outhaul that you put on the boom,
etc.
You do realise of course that all of the above is illegal and does
not comply with IMCO Class rules!!
So if all of you who plan to modify your board or indeed already have
done so send me your sail numbers I'll have a lot less to worry about
at the next International One-Design competition!
Thanks,
Paul Meester H-51.
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Life's too short to wear an ugly wetsuit!