How to repair Starboard wood boards ?
Miguel
couple months ago. The board has developed some discoloration in an
area approx. 11" x 8". The wood is cracking/splitting (1" inch long
splits not very deep) in this area and water is settling into the
cracks. When the board is taken out of the water, the area in question
remains wet longer than the rest of the board. The appearance is very
similar to furniture veneer which has gotten wet.
What can I use to restore the wood appearance and seal this area ? It
looks like the wood layer is only 6mm thick so I am concerned with the
amount of sanding that can be done.
I have read a few comments on the star-board forum regarding people
having problems with wood technology (cracking/delamination). Has anyone
heard anything about the durability of these boards ?
Thanks.
Brian Collis
though. I think a previous thread in this group mentioned that it's caused
by the factory not spraying enough of the topcoat on or something like that.
I just sprayed a little clearcoat on it, and it seems to be fine.
Other than that, I've had no problems with the Starboard, and it's taken
it's share of boom hits and minor drops.
Brian
Miguel
What clearcoat did you use ? Can you just use anything w/o affecting the board
?
I searched dejanews and could not find the thread you were referring to. You
would not happen to have a link to that thread.
Thanks.
Miguel
Exkraut
of similarly constructed, wood-veneered Styro-cored Epoxy surfboards with nicks
& gouges. The wood veneer is definitely structural, inasmuch as it contributes
to the panel stiffness. So do keep it healthy!
As long as no delamination has occurred, the best way is some clear sealer,
such as Deft, or Verathane. If its good enough for a wooden floor, its good
enough for your board.
Where major checking and splitting is present, I like to Epoxy-seal things
(Smith & Co Penetrating Epoxy), then laminate over with some UV-resistant Epoxy
(such as System Three SB112 or Resin Technology)
Eva
Brian Collis
"Miguel" <co...@home.com> wrote in message
news:3A901117...@home.com...
> Brian,
>
> What clearcoat did you use ? Can you just use anything w/o affecting the
board
> ?
>
> I searched dejanews and could not find the thread you were referring to.
You
> would not happen to have a link to that thread.
Hi Migel,
The clearcoat that I used was from a can of clear spraypaint that I've had
laying around.. I don't think it was Rustoleum, but probably something
similar.. I don't think that any normal clear paint that you get at your
local hardware store will cause you any problems, but I'm sure that Roger
would like to chime in on this one...?
Sorry, don't have the link to the previous discussion.. It's been a while..
maybe someone else has it?
Thanks,
Brian
Brian Collis
> Hi Migel,
Sorry about misspelling your name, Miguel.. the finger that would normally
hit the "U" key wanted the night off..
Brian
Stergios Papadakis
> Where major checking and splitting is present, I like to Epoxy-seal things
> (Smith & Co Penetrating Epoxy), then laminate over with some UV-resistant Epoxy
> (such as System Three SB112 or Resin Technology)
> Eva
Have you found this Smith & Co epoxy to be better than
the West version meant for finishing wood (107, I think)?
Where do you get it?
Stergios
Exkraut
>the West version meant for finishing wood (107, I think)?
>Where do you get it?
different product altogether: West seals over the top, while the Smith & Co is
thin enough to "penetrate" into the top fibers. It makes a great base for any
kind of finish, from varnishes to other clear Epoxies.
Smith & Co is in Richmond, Ca. I buy mine from a local (Ventura, Ca) marine
chandlery, and since it is favorite magic for wood preservation on recreational
boats, your local chandlery might well carry it, also
Eva