Trip to Provence in February 1998 (long)
Andrew Nightingale
hope may give some ideas to readers of this newsgroup
Day 1
At the beginning of February, I flew to Nice with Easyjet from Luton. I
got the local bus from the airport to the train station, and spent one
night in one of the many cheap hotels there (Hotel Mono 179FF with
shower + 20FF for TV + 22FF breakfast - rooms without shower or TV
available for 129FF).
Day 2
After a quick walk along the seafront, I took the train to Marseilles
(145FF). A very pretty run along the shore, then past red sandstone
cliffs and hills, taking about 2hrs 30 min. The meal in the bar on the
train was of only modest quality. In Marseilles, the tourist office at
the station was able (no charge) to find me a modest hotel near the
station (the Hotel Lutetia 220FF+35FF for breakfast - a very nice room
and pleasant staff) although some places were booked up due to
conferences. The station is at the head of a flight of about 100 steps,
giving splendid views over the city. But a side road (my luggage is on
wheels) led quickly to the hotel. Marseilles is a very multi-racial
city, and tends more to industry than tourism. I had a lovely meal by
the old port with some very nice fish dishes, including very fancy
fish-soup and a main course of grouper.
Day 3
I walked up to the Grobet-Labadij museum (10FF), a lovely old house
containing beautiful sculpture, paintings, furniture, musical
instruments and tapestries, all well labelled. Across the road was the
Longchamps Palace, built around a handsome fountain and decorative
stairs, and containing the Fine Arts museum, and that of Natural
History. I looked into the fine arts museum, which did not have the
rooms containing the better works open, just some very large paintings
of moderate quality. The top of the stairs opened into Longchamps Park,
very pleasant to wander through to a modest little restaurant offering
guinea-fowl with salsify. In the afternoon, I tried to visit the Roman
docks museum and the Old Marseilles museum, but both were closed for
improvements (a common problem out of season) so I walked on to the old
fort of St. Jean, then took a little ferry for just 3FF across the old
port and continued wandering around the old port area till evening.
Day 4
I bought an all-day ticket for city public transport (25FF). A trolley
bus (No.81) took be back to the fine arts museum to see the part that
hadn't been open the previous day. Some very nice paintings were now
visible. Bus 83 then carried me to the beach, where I found a very
reasonable lunch at a self-service cafeteria attached to a 'Casino'
supermarket. (These are in all the main towns of the Cote d'Azur). On
out of town to Mandragon, where an infrequent bus (No.19) with a very
country feel took me on to Callelongue. Wonderful cliff-top coastal
views. There is no road on from Callelongue, but footpaths go on into
dramatic countryside. A very pretty path led me back over the hills to
Mandragon. I got a bit lost because I did not realise how high the
proper path went, but had no real problems. The area is out-of-bounds,
due to forest fire problems, in July and August, and it would be unwise
to explore too far in bad weather. It is very wild country, considering
how close it is to a big city. I was just in time to get the bus back
to Notre Dame du Garde, a fairly modern church of no great beauty, but
at a high point in central Marseilles, with fantastic views over the
city. Another restaurant at the old port provided me with
bouillabaisse, a Marseilles speciality, and very delicious.
Day 5
I went back to the museum of old Marseilles, where, although it was
closed, one could see the remains of the Roman city through the
railings. I then spent some time wandering through the old 'Panier'
district, where I saw Vielle Charite, a handsome building, originally a
workhouse, with a fine chapel, and now containing various museums and
exhibitions. Also the Hotel Dieu, with a fine exterior, which is and
has long been the local hospital. It was pleasant to lunch on duck
outside in the Place Lenche, served by an ancient, charming waiter. I
continued wandering through the district till evening. The 'Panier'
district is a mixture of mediaeval buildings and jerry-built post-war
stuff. During the war, part of this district was such an impenetrable
strong-hold of the resistance, that the Nazis turned out 20,000 people,
and blew up their homes, all on one day.
Day 6
I took the boat(40FF return) to Chateau d'If (the fictional prison of
the Count of Monte Cristo and of the man in the iron mask). The island
contains little but the chateau (25FF admission with a good exhibition
of the real and fictional history) but has some splendid views back to
the city, of the coast, and the nearby Ile Frioul, to which the boat
will also take you, for an extra charge. After lunching by the old
port, I revisited la Vielle Charite to see the unusual oval chapel, and
enter the archaeology museum, with some great exhibits, well displayed
and described.
Day 7
A smooth train ride took me to Orange, where I stayed at Hotel Louvre
(250FF). I wondered after if the Hotel de la Gare would have been a
better choice. I visited the splendid Roman theatre (30FF - including
the small museum opposite, mostly closed for renovation at this time).
Then I climbed the hill behind the seating, into which it is built, to
find a pleasant park, and a small ruined chateau. Afterwards I walked
North to find the famous and splendid Roman arch. Dinner at the hotel
of skate or ray.
Day 8
After another visit to the hill behind the theatre, a walk along back
roads and paths toward Camaret. Although I didn't reach it, I had a
nice walk by the Rhone, found the old road to Serignan, and saw a fine
sunset on the way back.
Day 9
A short train trip, changing at Avignon, got me to Tarascon. A shortage
of accommodation, due to a trade fair, and some hotels taking their
annual vacation, left me at the Hotel Viaduc (130FF - with shower, but
no phone or TV) and run by a nice old couple. I visited the large
castle by the river in the centre of town (32FF). It belonged to Good
king Rene, count of Provence, before Provence was absorbed into France.
For centuries after that it was a prison. It has some fine Flemish
tapestries showing Roman history. There is also some curious graffiti,
some done by British sailors imprisoned there in the Napoleonic wars.
There are great views from the top, including the ruined castle of
Beaucaire, facing Tarascon across the Rhone, once the frontier between
France and Provence. Next to the castle is the grand old church of St.
Marthe containing her tomb and paintings of her victory over the
monster, Tarasque. There are some nice old streets, city walls and
gates and a handsome mediaeval Hotel de Ville.
Day 10
The market was today (Tuesday) so I enjoyed exploring it this morning
and visited St. Jaques church. I walked across the bridge, enjoying
fine views of both cities and castles to Beaucaire. Surprisingly there
has been a port there since most ancient times, and there was one of
the largest fairs in Europe here till the 19th century. The tourist
office had a leaflet which gave a walk visiting most of the historic
points of the old town. I had forgotten that the castle park and museum
were closed on Tuesdays, so I had a walk along the banks of the Rhone,
and another wander through old Tarascon.
Day 11
A country bus took me to St.Remy-en-Provence. It was market-day here
today(Wed). In the central square (Place Republique) I found the hotel
Ville Verte (225FF + 38FF breakfast). A very old, quiet building and my
large bedroom had a huge wardrobe and bed with a carved wooden
headboard at least 6 ft across. Lunch in an amusing little cafe 'Le
Monocle' with every wall covered in posters and old records as
placemats. The simple fixed menu was 38FF + 13 for wine and 10 for
coffee. After lunch a walk South led me to a very beautiful lake. I
also found the mental hospital (still in use) where Van Gogh spent the
last year of his life, based in an ancient monastery with a fine
cloister open to the public. Dinner at another small restaurant of
tripe was 55FF and 15 for wine.
Day 12
In the morning I visited the not very exciting archaeological museum in
the old town. I got a twin ticket with the site of the ancient Roman
city of Glanum, just South of St.Remy for 36FF (the museum alone would
have been 15FF). I then went to Glanum and found it closed temporarily
for improvements. Neither the site, nor the museum would give me back
the difference. I had bought a sandwich in a boulangerie in St.Remy,
which I ate just outside the archaeological site by Les Antiques, a
memorial to the heirs of Augustus Caesar, and a victory arch, both on
public land. I had picked up a leaflet at the tourist office, showing
some walks through the Alpilles. I followed a 15 km walk from here,
which led down a ladder through a hole in limestone rock to the lake
previously visited, up a forested valley past some llamas to a ridgeway
walk with fantastic views to the weird scenery of the Val d'Enfer
(valley of hell), and on to the small hill-top village of Les Baux.
Time permitted only a short look round the inhabited village, touristy
but picturesque, and with great views. I understand that the abandoned
chateau and upper village are of great interest. There were no buses
back to St.Remy in the winter, but the tourist office was able to
organise a taxi to take me back for 85FF. This short drive also had
spectacular scenery.
Day 13
I caught a bus from St.Remy to Avignon, passing a fine castle at
Chateau Reynard. From Avignon, I went on to Villeneuve-Les-Avignon,
across the river, by bus 11. I found many hotels were closed at this
season, so had to settle for the somewhat dearer Hotel l'Atelier
(290FF). Several of the historic monuments were closed all February,
but I visited the huge Fort St.Andre, with two great towers at the
gate, and had a wander around the old town.
Day 14
After a quick glance at the small market in Villeneuve, I took the
local bus to Avignon. There was a large market, mainly food, by the
city gate. 15 minutes by train saw me in Tarascon, and after a short
walk across the bridge, I reached the castle at Beaucaire, which had
been closed on my previous visit. There is a fine park in the lower
part of the castle ruins, a small museum, with Roman remains. I was the
only visitor to the museum during my tour. The upper part of the castle
is fenced off, and set aside for a falconry exhibition, open only in
the summer. After another look at the old town of Beaucaire, I caught a
bus by the port, which wandered back to Avignon, through small
villages, two of which had castles. And so back to Villeneuve.
Day 15
This morning I visited Chartreuse Abbey, a huge monument, part now on
exhibit, part now used for arts and entertainment learning. There were
many excellent notices all over the exhibition explaining the original
use of the buildings, in English, among other languages. After lunch, I
visited the Abbey St. Andre in the fort, with an ancient church and
fine gardens with spectacular views. A minor excitement was a snake
disturbing the peace at the gate of the abbey.
Day 16
Today, I moved on by bus to Aix-en-Provence, a 2 hour trip. The bus
station appears to be in something of a wasteland, but is actually
quite near the historic centre. I found a simple hotel (Hotel les
Arts)not far from the centre, with a rather basic room (TV, phone &
shower, but very little space for clothes) at 195FF+25FF for breakfast
payable in advance. After a simple salad lunch at the neighbouring
Restaurant Salad, I spent the afternoon wandering around the old town.
I saw many historic buildings, old fountains in pretty squares and
handsome churches. I noted the position of two of the fine museums of
Aix, though these are closed on Mondays, as are many museums in France.
In the evening, I found a very nice little place, the Restaurant
Carillon, with a 4 course menu for 59FF and a pichet of wine for 8FF. A
peculiarity of this place was that they preferred one to choose each
course as one went along. I had all subsequent evening meals in Aix
there.
Day 17
The ancient Cathedral St-Sauveur contains tapestries that were in
Canterbury Cathedral, until an Aix church official bought them from
Cromwell's government. There are also fine mediaeval paintings. Lunch
at the Place Richelme, in one of the restaurants that expand into the
square as the flower market clears away. A leaflet from the tourist
office gave ideas for routes to explore this fine city, dating back to
Roman foundations as a spa town. The baths were closed for renovation,
but some Roman remains could be seen from the road. Neighbouring Place
Vendome was a pretty park. The Pavillion de Vendome is a handsome town
chateau, containing a museum, closed on Tuesdays.
Day 18
Wasted this morning at the launderette next to the hotel. After lunch,
I visited the Museum Granet with archaeology in the basement, including
material from the nearby pre-Roman site of Oppidum, and paintings on
the 1st floor, a mixed bag, but including some fine work by local boy,
Cezanne. Some museums, including the Arnaud, of doubtful quality, and
the tapestry museum, of good repute, were closed for restoration.
Day 19
I got into the chateau Vendome(10FF) this morning, and also visited the
museum of old Aix(15FF), with amusing marionettes. Both were small but
interesting. After lunch back outside in the square, I took the local
bus to the Celtic pre-Roman city of Oppidum, above and just outside
Aix. This was conquered and destroyed by the Romans, when they founded
Aix. It was a beautiful, quiet place with great views over Aix, and of
Mount Victoire, much painted by Cezanne. A guide explained (in French,
but at no charge) the remains, including olive presses, ovens and a
forge. On the way back, the bus passed the Atelier Cezzane (his
workshop). I was too mean to spring the 25FF admission, but walked on
downhill, looking at the pleasant views over Aix. Looked in on the
cathedral again, and had a quick glance at the Cite de Livre and Parc
Jourdan.
Day 20
Today, I caught the train from Aix to Nice, changing at Marseilles,
where I had a nice lunch at the station buffet. I had reserved a seat
on the 2nd train, and I and my fellow passengers were confused to find
most of the seats had been double-booked. When staff arrived, they were
able to explain that there were 2 coach 23's on this train - to general
amusement. I returned to Hotel Mono to stay in Nice for the period of
the Carnival.
Day 21
This morning, I visited the Contemporary Arts Museum, picking up a
40FF pass, valid for 1 week for access to 12 of Nice's museums. I was
not enormously impressed by this museum, but for those who like the
avant-garde, it is doubtless very interesting. In the afternoon, I paid
50FF to enter the Promenade des Anglais, blocked off for the 'Battle of
the Flowers'. Quite amusing floats of flowers, and very pretty, if
rather chilly, girls throwing flowers into the watching crowds. In the
evening, I watched a carnival procession in the Avenue Jean Medecin.
This was free, with the traditional type of float, based on the circus
theme. Enormous amounts of silly string whizzed among the crowds.
Day 22
This morning, I took the short, pretty train ride to Menton, on the
Italian frontier for the 'Fete de Citron'. The train was full, but I
noted Villefranche and Beaulieu for later visits. Menton is an ancient,
small town climbing a mountain-side from the seashore, with steep
stairs crossed by semi-pedestrian streets, often running under old
houses. The restaurants were pretty full, and the weather turned to
torrential rain, the first day of really bad weather on this holiday,
but I found a place which served a fixed menu with a nice paella, under
a canopy, but outside in a small square, for 75FF. After lunch 50FF
admitted me to the streets where a procession of floats built primarily
of oranges and lemons, and interspersed with majorettes and bands went
by in rather cold, damp conditions. The theme was 'Tintin', the Belgian
cartoon character. There was also an exhibition in the gardens on the
same theme for an extra 30FF, but given the weather, I didn't bother.
Instead, I warmed up by visiting a free exhibition of orchids in the
town hall. As the sun came out, I explored the old town, visiting the
old church, and the cemetery at the top of a hill, with splendid views,
and gravestones inscribed in French, Italian, Russian and English. The
harbour was also very pretty.
Day 23
In the morning, I took a long walk along the front at Nice, then
returned by bus 24 to the station. I had bought a carnet of 10 bus
tickets for Nice, but this was not as good a bargain as I had first
thought - the discount was only 15%. 8FF per ticket, or 68FF for 10. I
had lunch at the self-service Casino Cafeteria by the station. Good
value for Nice, but not atmospheric. After lunch, by train to
Villefranche, towatch a sea-battle of flowers. After watching the small
boats passing, very nicely decorated with flowers, I wandered the
streets of this old port town, visited the fair in the town square and
the castle above the port. Like Menton, it had stepped and subterranean
streets. A bus took me back to old Nice, the old streets of which are
well worth exploring.
Day 24 (Mardi Gras)
In the morning, I reached the old port of Nice by bus, had a wander
round here and the old city, where I found lunch, before climbing upto
the chateau, of which nothing remains, though there are some bits left
by the Romans, and spectacular views in all directions. A lift brought
me down to the seafront, and I returned to enjoy the afternoon
carnival. In the evening, there were splendid illuminations and I
visited some fine modern fountains.
Day 25
Today bus 15 took me to Cimiez, a suburb high above much of Nice.
Here,there was a good archaeological museum and fine site, with huge
Roman baths, all well explained in a free English leaflet from the
museum. Nearby is the monastery, with a small free rather boring museum
and a fine church, which demands a supply of 2FF coins to illuminate
the splendid mediaeval paintings. It has lovely gardens with great
views over Nice. Lunch was a sandwich in a public park filled with
olive trees. Just beyond was the Matisse museum. The art was not much
to my taste, but I liked the older part of the building. Walking down
from Cimiez, I passed the Chagall museum. As I had visited it on a
previous visit to Nice, and it was not on my pass, I skipped it this
time and took a bus on to old Nice for the lovely old Lascaris Palace,
with reminders of the Italian heritage of Nice. The top floor was being
turned into a folk museum. Many of the exhibits were in place, but
labelling had not been completed.
Day 26
A short train trip reached Cagnes-sur-Mer, from which it is no great
walk to Haut-de-Cagnes for the chateau. They have the famous Solidor
paintings here, but they were not on show on this occasion, as they
were showing an exhibition by a modern artist. This disappointment was
made up for by fine views, painted ceilings and a huge olive-press.
After lunch in the lower town, I went on by bus to Vence. A lovely
mediaeval town, with cathedral, city walls, pedestrian streets and
squares. A leaflet from the tourist office enabled me to find all the
main sights. On the way back to Nice, I stopped briefly at
St.Paul-de-Vence. Very pretty, very touristy and with very grand
expensive art galleries. As I waited for the bus to Nice, I witnessed a
minor drama. A horse bearing a boy of about 14 came galloping, bareback
up the busy main road. At the hairpin bend, just by the bus stop, the
horse skidded on the polished pavement, and stumbled, with the boy
falling to the hard pavement. He was hurt and local people immediately
came to his help. The horse recovered and returned independently to his
stable. Our bus came, and followed the horse till it turned off the
road to its stable.
Day 27
A grand circular tour by train today. First to Ventimiglia in Italy
along the very dramatic coastline. Market-day was in full progress, and
great fun. I had a simple picnic on the rather tatty beach. Ventimiglia
is not, perhaps, the prettiest of towns. Although all prices were in
lira, francs were readily accepted, with an honest exchange rate. A
very pretty run up through the mountains to Breil, back in France, in
an uncrowded one-coach train. Breil was lovely, with old rather
battered churches looking across a lake. I had a short walk through
some of the nearby countryside. This would be a good base for a walking
holiday, and the tourist office has the necessary information.
Signposts indicated several interesting walks into the mountains. Breil
is at 285 metres above sea-level and the station is a little out of
town. I continued to Tende at 820 metres, with the station on the edge
of town, and train times allowing just 40 minutes here. I had just time
to admire views of snow-clad mountains, and dash along an old road
between and under old houses to an attractive and interesting
cathedral. The train back to Nice was very crowded, as one carriage was
completely reserved, and some passengers were loaded with ski
equipment. The return was by the same route as far as Breil, where many
passengers changed to the Ventimiglia train, while we continued through
the mountains to Nice, arriving a little after dark. Although I crossed
between France and Italy several times today, no-one checked anybody
for passports, and although there were passport barriers and offices,
they were disused.
Day 28
This morning, I went by city bus to the Naif Art museum. Fabron is the
nearest bus stop. The door was locked, but was opened when I rattled
it. The paintings were of moderate quality, but were amusing. By bus
back to the Fine Arts museum, which had free entry today, and larger,
nicer paintings, mainly 19th and early 20th century. After lunch, I
visited the somewhat unimpressive Mossa gallery. The nearby former Dufy
gallery is now called Plonchette and shows modern photos. I found I
could watch another battle of flowers free from just in front of the
Casino Ruhl. In the evening, another carnival procession took place,
with much fun and jollity.
Last day
My flight was not till the afternoon, so I walked down to the Massena
museum, also free today, with plastic cards in English describing the
interesting exhibits. These included local history and art, especially
pottery, and the exploits of Napoleon and Garibaldi. Like several of
the museums, it had temporary exhibitions relating to the carnival
theme of the circus. Again, like other museums, it was set in pleasant
gardens, where I sat for a while, before returning to the hotel to
settle up (1997FF for 10 nights B&B) and catching the 23 city bus to
the airport. And so a comfortable flight, with good views of the
Riviera and Alps, returned me to England.
The main guides I used were the Rough guide to Provence, and the Green
Michelin guides to Provence and to the Cote D'Azur
--
Andrew Nightingale of Cambridge (UK)
Michael Forrest
<A.Nigh...@home.cam.net.uk> writes
>
>Day 20
>Today, I caught the train from Aix to Nice, changing at Marseilles,
>where I had a nice lunch at the station buffet. I had reserved a seat
>on the 2nd train, and I and my fellow passengers were confused to find
>most of the seats had been double-booked. When staff arrived, they were
>able to explain that there were 2 coach 23's on this train - to general
>amusement. I returned to Hotel Mono to stay in Nice for the period of
>the Carnival.
>
previous thread about why visitors sometimes think they are being badly
treated. It is also embarassing to me to recall.
We were travelling to Barcelona by train and were changing at
Montpellier in France to the Talgo train that runs between the two. We
had reservations and went to our numbered seats only to find them
occupied by two Americans. I waved out reservation documentation at them
and they apologised and moved out of the coach as all the other seats in
it were occupied.
Some Germans then came along and also thought we were sitting in their
seats. When I again said that our reservation documentation's seat
numbers were as marked on the seats they asked me to show them our
reservation cards. Whereupon they pointed out that we might be in the
right seat numbers but we were in the wrong coach! We withdrew with some
embarassment to seek our seats in the right coach only to find the
Americans of the first encounter sitting there since they had found them
free. I did not have the gall to ask to look at their reservation cards
but we did make considerable efforts to find ourselves other seats -
eventually successfully. Whether we were really double booked with the
Americans or not never emerged. But I was impressed with the Germans who
left nothing to chance by insisting on looking at our reservation
documentation.
--
Michael Forrest