Sanger DXII Barefoot prop
krbaugh
I think it is a 3 blad stainless anyone know for sure what prop?
Kevin
--
Free audio & video emails, greeting cards and forums
Talkway - http://www.talkway.com - Talk more ways (sm)
John Chall
According to the American Barefoot Club http://barefoot.org it is a
3-blade stainless prop.
John
krbaugh <krb...@spamezl.com> wrote in message
news:nvxH4.12594$A4.3...@c01read04.service.talkway.com...
Bob McMahon
John Chall wrote in message
<4yGH4.33000$E85.7...@news1.rdc1.md.home.com>...
krbaugh
<b...@mcmahonstowing.com> wrote:
> CVP Stainless
>
Are you saying that because of Dave's boat? As I recall he just got a
DXII. Could be that he got the same prop that comes on the promo boats?
Kevin
krbaugh
Size and Manufacturer
Kevin
EJOJPROP
>Thanks I was pretty sure about that part I was looking for specifics.
>Size and Manufacturer
>
>Kevin
The size should be 13 X 13 LC 1 1/8" 3-blade with a CVP and
13 X 14 LC 1 1/8" 4-blade with an OJ. Sanger uses both sizes and manufacturers.
Bob McMahon
shaft. He opted to change to a OJ four blade but it bumped the rev limiter
of the engine and had more vibration than the CVP. So he left the Three
blade CVP on it.
Standard on a DXll is a four blade NIbral (probably a OJ) according to their
web site. Option for the barefoot package just says a custom prop. Which I
would think to be the CVP due to the speed.
As you well know you can get anything you want on a boat if you got the
money.
krbaugh wrote in message ...
>On Sat, 8 Apr 2000 08:50:10 -0500 "Bob McMahon"
><b...@mcmahonstowing.com> wrote:
>> CVP Stainless
>>
>
>Are you saying that because of Dave's boat? As I recall he just got a
>DXII. Could be that he got the same prop that comes on the promo boats?
>
>
>Kevin
>>
>> John Chall wrote in message
>> <4yGH4.33000$E85.7...@news1.rdc1.md.home.com>...
krbaugh
I was curious I need to pusha Ski Centurion Eclipse as fast as it will
go. Sanger uses the 3 blad CVP for acceleration and speed reasons on
the Barefoot Promo boats. So I was going to start test with the prop
that they use. Do you have any recomendations
krbaugh
<b...@mcmahonstowing.com> wrote:
> His boat came with a CVP Stainless three blade, I believe 13x14 1 1/8 dia.
> shaft. He opted to change to a OJ four blade but it bumped the rev limiter
> of the engine and had more vibration than the CVP. So he left the Three
> blade CVP on it.
> Standard on a DXll is a four blade NIbral (probably a OJ) according to their
> web site. Option for the barefoot package just says a custom prop. Which I
> would think to be the CVP due to the speed.
> As you well know you can get anything you want on a boat if you got the
> money.
:-) so true but I feal the need for speed. I was looking for a place to
start testing
> krbaugh wrote in message ...
> >On Sat, 8 Apr 2000 08:50:10 -0500 "Bob McMahon"
> ><b...@mcmahonstowing.com> wrote:
> >> CVP Stainless
> >>
> >
> >Are you saying that because of Dave's boat? As I recall he just got a
> >DXII. Could be that he got the same prop that comes on the promo boats?
> >
> >
> >Kevin
> >>
> >> John Chall wrote in message
> >> <4yGH4.33000$E85.7...@news1.rdc1.md.home.com>...
> >> >Kevin,
> >> >
> >> > According to the American Barefoot Club http://barefoot.org it is a
> >> >3-blade stainless prop.
> >> >
> >> >John
> >> >
> >> >krbaugh <krb...@spamezl.com> wrote in message
> >> >news:nvxH4.12594$A4.3...@c01read04.service.talkway.com...
> >> >> Does anyone know what prop the Sanger DXII barefoot edition is using.
> >> >> I think it is a 3 blad stainless anyone know for sure what prop?
> >> >>
> >> >> Kevin
EJOJPROP
>shaft. He opted to change to a OJ four blade but it bumped the rev limiter
>of the engine and had more vibration than the CVP. So he left the Three
>blade CVP on it.
>Standard on a DXll is a four blade NIbral (probably a OJ) according to their
>web site.
I would assume the 4-blade he used was a 13 X 13 LC, if it hit the limiter.The
13 X 13 LC 4-blade should hit the limiter. The 13 X 14 LC should not have a
problem getting close to the limiter. The standard prop is the OJ 13 X 14 LC 1
1/8" 4-blade. As for the top speed issue, it would be a difference of 1-2 MPH,
the 3-blade being faster.
EJ
John Chall
I have a '99 DLX. It came with the OJ 13x14 4-blade, and I also have
the CVP 13x13 3-blade. With the 4-blade, my top speed is 49 mph, and with
the 3-blade, it is 51 mph. I prefer my 4-blade because it is smooth, quiet,
relatively vibration free, and most importantly, creates a smoother table
for footing. The 3-blade chatters a lot on acceleration--especially from a
standing start. The top speeds indicated were with 3 guys in the boat.
With 3 in the boat and a footer (Dave Miller) in tow, we max'd out at about
47.5 with the CVP.
Anyone switching from a 3-blade to a 4-blade should consider going up an
inch in pitch as Sanger did, since a 4-blade is less efficient than a
3-blade. Plus, in this case as most, a switch from nibral to stainless
steel was also made. IMO, Sanger made a good choice going with the OJ 13x14
4-blade. Their Boston dealership, "The Boat House", had a lot to do with
Sanger's standard prop becoming a OJ 13x14 4-blade. The owner of The Boat
House, Randy Deary, is a mechanical engineer in his other life. Besides
being a great guy to work with, he is also a meticulous tester. He tested
many props with various pitches and diameters and passed the results on to
them encouraging them to switch to the OJ. Unless speed is paramount, I
also give the nod to the OJ.
Has anyone tried one of the new 4-blade stainless props? That might be
the best of both worlds.
John Chall
krbaugh <krb...@spamezl.com> wrote in message
news:QUMH4.12975$A4.3...@c01read04.service.talkway.com...
> On 08 Apr 2000 17:34:53 GMT ejoj...@aol.com (EJOJPROP) wrote:
> > >
> > >Thanks I was pretty sure about that part I was looking for specifics.
> > >Size and Manufacturer
> > >
> > >Kevin
> >
> > The size should be 13 X 13 LC 1 1/8" 3-blade with a CVP and
> > 13 X 14 LC 1 1/8" 4-blade with an OJ. Sanger uses both sizes and
manufacturers.
>
>
> I was curious I need to pusha Ski Centurion Eclipse as fast as it will
> go. Sanger uses the 3 blad CVP for acceleration and speed reasons on
> the Barefoot Promo boats. So I was going to start test with the prop
> that they use. Do you have any recomendations
>
>
EJOJPROP
>inch in pitch as Sanger did, since a 4-blade is less efficient than a
>3-blade. Plus, in this case as most, a switch from nibral to stainless
>steel was also made. IMO, Sanger made a good choice going with the OJ 13x14
>4-blade.
The main reason Sanger and Malibu use the 13 X 14 as opposed to the
13 X 13, is the boats use high H.P. motors (over 320 H.P.). They needed more
pitch to hold the motor. We made the 13 X 14 instead of just adding additional
cupping to keep th RPM in the correct range. The 13 X 13 will work well on the
lower H.P. motors
EJ
Tim Harper
on the boat. Previous boating experience says that no matter how careful you
are this will happen sooner or later.
Being new at nibral props, I'd like some advice on where to go and what to
do. Specifically, what intelligent questions can I ask at a prop shop to see
whether or not they can do a good job for me.( While I recognize that OJ has
a great reputation and I'm willing to send my 4 blade 14x18 back to the
factory, I would prefer to not be without it for that long.)
Some questions:
1. Are "prop blocks" different for each brand of prop? Are different blocks
needed for different metals? What is the repair process like? Does new
material get added, if needed? Do they just pound it to the right shape
against the block? What happens? What other tools are critical to do proper
work?
2. If the local guy can do reasonable work on aluminum props, what's the
chance he can fix a nibral?
3. Eric, if I send it your way, how long is your current backlong and what
could I expect for turn-around time? Is there a minimum fee or does it
depend on the damage?
4. Are there any recommendations of good shops in/near Boise, ID or the
Pacific Northwest that work on this kind of prop?
5. What simple measurements or examination can I do to check my prop? A
visual check shows only a small mark on one blade. Is it possible without
special tools to measure minor pitch changes? At least on the boat, I cannot
see any tweak, bend, damage etc. to any of the blades. At first, I thought
there was slight vibration at about 1700 rpm, but this would not repeat on
the way back to the launch ramp.
6. Is the only check of completed repair work on the boat (operating) or are
there other things to look at and/or measure?
Bob McMahon
bent one blade and cracked another. I sent it to a local prop shop and had
it repaired. Looked great after the repairs. But when I took off from the
dock, WOW!!! Boy did it vibrate.
I ordered another prop from A.R.E. and sent the damaged prop to Eric at OJ.
But the guy who had repaired it messed it up so bad it could not be repaired
again. Lesson learned. Send it to Eric and get it done right the first
time.
This is not a plug for OJ, just the facts.
Bob
EJOJPROP wrote in message <20000410210300...@ng-fw1.aol.com>...
>
>
>
>
>
>1. Are "prop blocks" different for each brand of prop? Are different blocks
>>needed for different metals? What is the repair process like? Does new
>>material get added, if needed? Do they just pound it to the right shape
>>against the block? What happens? What other tools are critical to do
proper
>>work?
>
>Each brand of propeller has it's own characteristics, each block is made
>specific for the brand and size. The material of the prop does not matter
in
>relation to the block. The pounding..........thats the the part that is
tricky.
>Some shops are good at it some are not.
>
>>2. If the local guy can do reasonable work on aluminum props, what's the
>>chance he can fix a nibral?
>>
>>
>
>Inboard props, in my opinion, are more difficult to repair than aluminum
props
>with rubber hubs. The hub will take up the majority of the vibration that
can
>be found with a poor repair. The prop, generally, does not have to be as
true
>or in balance as an inboard prop. Poor inboard repairs stand out.
>
>>3. Eric, if I send it your way, how long is your current backlong and
what
>>could I expect for turn-around time? Is there a minimum fee or does it
>>depend on the damage?
>
>We are turning around repairs at about two weeks, includes shipping time
both
>ways. The fee does depend on the damage to the propeller, starts at $40.00
up
>to $100.00
>
>.>4. Are there any recommendations of good shops in/near Boise, ID or the
>>Pacific Northwest that work on this kind of prop?
>
>I don't have any recommendations for repair shops, not familar with that
area.
>Ask around and see who has had good luck with a local shop.
>
>
>
>>5. What simple measurements or examination can I do to check my prop? A
>>visual check shows only a small mark on one blade. Is it possible without
>>special tools to measure minor pitch changes? At least on the boat, I
cannot
>>see any tweak, bend, damage etc. to any of the blades. At first, I thought
>>there was slight vibration at about 1700 rpm, but this would not repeat on
>>the way back to the launch ramp.
>
>If the propeller shows a strike and you know it took a hit, then it is best
to
>have it looked at by a prop shop. A check of the propeller should cost very
>little if anything, we don't charge to check out a propeller. Then you will
>know what needs to be done.
>
>>6. Is the only check of completed repair work on the boat (operating) or
are
>>there other things to look at and/or measure?
>>
>>
>
>The proof is in the pudding. If it's done right, you'll know as soon as you
>leave the ramp.
>
>
>>( While I recognize that OJ has
>>a great reputation and I'm willing to send my 4 blade 14x18 back to the
>>factory, I would prefer to not be without it for that long.)
>
>I would suggest a spare prop, "JUST IN CASE". Shameless plug for a prop
sale.
>Really, you would not go on a trip without a spare tire for the truck or
>trailer, cheap insurance so the weekend will go on.
>
>Hope this helps.
>
>EJ
EJOJPROP
John Chall
Thanks for sharing the inside facts with us!
John Chall
EJOJPROP <ejoj...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000410085700...@ng-fh1.aol.com...
EJOJPROP
>sent my 4 blade OJ to http://www.coastalprop.com and they did a
>fantastic job.
>
>
Tim,
We don't use blocks here at OJ either, never have. Blocks are okay to get the
prop in the ballpark, it can still fit the block and not be the correct pitch,
rake and tracking.
EJ
Tim Harper
sense. I was hoping to get by for a little longer without, since no out of
town trips are planned for a couple months. Sometimes you have good luck,
sometimes not. ;-)
Two more questions:
1. How does one re-shape or re-pitch without a block to pound against? I can
understand that the propscan approach is a superior measurement system but
I'm not sure how you put the blades back in place.
2. As we consider the second prop, there are several alternatives. a) buy an
exact match OJ 14 x 18, four blade for our Malibu Escape (standard 325HP
monsoon), b) pick up a used something 3 or 4 blade that would get us by for
the weekend when an accident happens, c) try something else new that's a
little different pitch, size, etc. and have some variety in performance
maybe more top-end or hole-shot for up in the mountains.
Option "b" saves money while "a" keeps everything the same and everyone
happy. Maybe Eric has some magic coming out in a week or two? and then
option "c" might be my best choice.
What does everyone else do for their spare?
Tom Ruta
...
>What does everyone else do for their spare?
Mine is sitting at the dealer's shop - an hour away. I
tried to buy an extra prop, but the dealer suggested that
while he'd be happy to sell me one, chances are that I
wouldn't use it and if I did I'd be checking in with him
anyway to look for other damage. He's right IMHO.
Tom
EJOJPROP
>understand that the propscan approach is a superior measurement system but
>I'm not sure how you put the blades back in place.
>
>
To explain in detail how we at OJ do this, would betray the lessons handed down
from my great-grandfather. Seriously, we don't use blocks to repair props, we
repair in our own unique way. The process works for us. That is not to say a
competent prop guy and a block can't get the job done just as well. We just
choose not to rely on the block. Prop Scan is great, if you know what to do
with the info you get. If you don't know how to get it straight, then the Prop
Scan is a spendy pitch gauge.
>2. As we consider the second prop, there are several alternatives. a) buy an
>exact match OJ 14 x 18, four blade for our Malibu Escape (standard 325HP
>monsoon), b) pick up a used something 3 or 4 blade that would get us by for
>the weekend when an accident happens, c) try something else new that's a
>little different pitch, size, etc. and have some variety in performance
>maybe more top-end or hole-shot for up in the mountains.
I choose (a) ! (b) Is not a bad way to go either, if you know the condition of
the prop and it will run close to your "A" prop in the event you need to use
it. Make sure it is a 14 X 18 LC 1 1/8" 3 or 4-blade. (c) Changing the pitch of
the original propeller, for inboards anyway, is really not necessary. The boats
are propped from the factory correctly. However, if you run the boat at high
altitude, then a change will be necessary. If you use the boat over 2500' or so
then you should see a drop in performance.
EJ
EJOJPROP
>profiles, and when they're all done they make sure all blades scan the
>same.
I agree, it is a nice measuring tool. Being able to measure and being able to
straighten to get the correct measurement on all 3 or 4 blades are two
different things. I wish it was as simple as putting the prop in a machine and
turn it on. It still takes a skilled human to get it right.
EJ
EJOJPROP
>tried to buy an extra prop, but the dealer suggested that
>while he'd be happy to sell me one, chances are that I
>wouldn't use it and if I did I'd be checking in with him
>anyway to look for other damage. He's right IMHO.
Tom,
(Tounge in cheek) Will he drive the hour and bring the prop and removal tools
to you at the lake and replace the damaged one? For the cost of the prop only?
For most the spare prop is peace of mind, like the spare for the truck or
trailer, you may never need it but when you do you have it. IMHO (not a sales
pitch)
Tom Ruta
>(Tounge in cheek) Will he drive the hour and bring the prop and removal tools
>to you at the lake and replace the damaged one? For the cost of the prop only?
>
He will - if I pay full list <g> Seriously, he will send a
tech up at a reasonable rate. He did last year when i broke
my collarbone. There's a Nautique dealer a mile and a half
across the lake, too if I'm really stuck.
>For most the spare prop is peace of mind, like the spare for the truck or
>trailer, you may never need it but when you do you have it. IMHO (not a sales
>pitch)
But the chances are that if I get a tire I have not trashed
the wheel bearings or wrecked the rim. Not necessarily so
if I drift the prop on a rock (which we have almost non to
worry about on my lake - it is >500 ft deep!). By the time I
get the boat to a ramp, get the trailer and pull it out I
might as well head over to the dealer's and get it checked
so I don't do further damage to the boat. Frankly, I don't
know enough about props and engines to fee comfortable just
swapping a prop and going back out after a hit. YMMV.
Tom
Tim Harper
spare might not be as useful. Unfortunately, our local lakes are shallow and
my likelihood of damage is higher than Tom's.
Eric's advice on the spare is what I had planned before any road trips, like
down to Lake Powell or to the mountain lakes here in Idaho.
So the next question is: How often is there additional shaft and/or
drivetrain damage with a prop strike? In the middle of nowhere I need a way
to get back. A spare prop could help, but perhaps the risk of other damage
is not worth the gamble?
EJOJPROP wrote in message <20000411133230...@ng-fb1.aol.com>...
>>Mine is sitting at the dealer's shop - an hour away. I
>>tried to buy an extra prop, but the dealer suggested that
>>while he'd be happy to sell me one, chances are that I
>>wouldn't use it and if I did I'd be checking in with him
>>anyway to look for other damage. He's right IMHO.
>
>Tom,
>
>(Tounge in cheek) Will he drive the hour and bring the prop and removal
tools
>to you at the lake and replace the damaged one? For the cost of the prop
only?
>
>For most, the spare prop is peace of mind, like the spare for the truck or
Tom Ruta
...
>... In the middle of nowhere I need a way
>to get back. A spare prop could help, but perhaps the risk of other damage
>is not worth the gamble?
How would you change the prop if you were at the other end
of Lake Powell (from your truck/trailer)? Frankly, I'm
thinking a cellars phone is more useful (to me) than a spare
prop when I'm literally "up the creek".
Tom
Tim Harper
scouting a shallow, sandy bottom. This might require holding your breath but
then I haven't ever tried it so I don't know.
At Lake Powell this might be necessary, but at other locations the ramp and
trailer are only a few minutes away. A new or replacement prop would still
be several hours further down the road. This isn't a pleasant thought. Our
access to spares is limited on the weekends here in Idaho, (shop is closed
on Sundays and has shorter hours on Saturday) so I lean toward carrying what
I might need with me.
Tom Ruta wrote in message ...
>"Tim Harper" <tim_h...@hp.com> wrote:
>
>....
Mark Lenox
Tom Ruta wrote:
> How would you change the prop if you were at the other end
> of Lake Powell (from your truck/trailer)?
Go swimming and replace it. Was this supposed to be a trick question? Do
you really understand how big Powell is? We aren't talking some little
Canadian pond here, the "rules of engagement" are completely different on a
body of water like that. You'd best be able to take as much care of yourself
as possible, because there is little or no help, and it's a long ways away.
If you can't handle changing a prop, you have no business boating on Lake
Powell, that place can seriously hurt or kill people who are not respectful of
it.
Very few hits do enough damage to the shaft that you can't at least idle home
with a replacement prop. It beats the heck out of paddling.
> Frankly, I'm thinking a cellars phone is more useful (to me) than a spare
> prop when I'm literally "up the creek".
A cellular phone won't do you one bit of good in the canyons at Powell. Unless
maybe you're right next to one of the main marinas, there is no cellular
service there. Even satellite phones won't work in the slot canyons. VHF is
monitored by the park service and does work in most places, but generally not
in the kind of places you want to be to ski.
There is absolutely no substitute for a spare prop, tools, and extra hardware
onboard at all times.
Mark Lenox
Tom Ruta
...
>> How would you change the prop if you were at the other end
>> of Lake Powell (from your truck/trailer)?
>
>Go swimming and replace it.
Have you actually done that????
>Was this supposed to be a trick question? Do
>you really understand how big Powell is? We aren't talking some little
>Canadian pond here, the "rules of engagement" are completely different on a
>body of water like that.
LOL! Do you have the FAINTEST idea how big Lake Okanogan,
Arrow Lakes or my lake, the Shuswap is???
I didn't think so. Our arm of the Shuswap is about 40 mils
long. You can be three or more hours at full throttle from
home if you wander up one of the uninhabited arms. If you
think that it is reasonable to start playing "Sea Hunt" and
changing a prop miles form nowhere you are dreaming.
>You'd best be able to take as much care of yourself
>as possible, because there is little or no help, and it's a long ways away.
>If you can't handle changing a prop, you have no business boating on Lake
>Powell, that place can seriously hurt or kill people who are not respectful of
>it.
>
We lose about a half dozen folks each year. How many bite
the farm on Powell?
>Very few hits do enough damage to the shaft that you can't at least idle home
>with a replacement prop. It beats the heck out of paddling.
>
I don't doubt. But idling 80 miles is not the best idea
IMHO. On a twisted or damaged shaft. Frankly, I'd paddle
to the nearest marine park and use one on a houseboat
ship-to-shore radio for a tow.
>
>
>> Frankly, I'm thinking a cellars phone is more useful (to me) than a spare
>> prop when I'm literally "up the creek".
>
>A cellular phone won't do you one bit of good in the canyons at Powell.
Gee, we have the Monashees - does that count?
Unless
>maybe you're right next to one of the main marinas, there is no cellular
>service there. Even satellite phones won't work in the slot canyons.
Iridium (sat phone) is basically dead - Chicken Little is
watching.<g>
> VHF is
>monitored by the park service and does work in most places, but generally not
>in the kind of places you want to be to ski.
>
>There is absolutely no substitute for a spare prop, tools, and extra hardware
>onboard at all times.
Provided you know how to use them, can hold your breath for
significant time underwater (Esther Williams anyone???) and
haven't got the good sense to have a cellular phone.
Has anyone ever changed a prop under water? Prop guys???
Tom
Tom Ruta
...
>Prop changes in the water do not have to be difficult :
...
>Now take the prop nut off, and steady the prop with your other hand. Hand the
>prop nut to someone in the boat. ...
>Have someone hand you the prop nut in your free hand while maintain pressure on
>the prop with your other hand. ...
I'm intrigued by the feasibility of actually doing this. My
boat has a 90+ inch beam - my arm span from (air breathing)
mouth to hand is about 36 inches. How long does one have to
hold their breath to accomplish these manoeuver?
>Another shameless plug for OJ's just in case spare prop kit. All necessary
>items are contained within. Resupply them if you use them.
I agree that for many folks, under the right scenarios, a
spare prop makes sense. But for the life of me, I can't see
doing this on water - especially in the cold water season.
BICBW...
TOm
Karl Denninger
On a stern-drive and outboard? Sure. Several times.
On an INBOARD? Nope. Not yet anyway. :-)
--
--
Karl Denninger (ka...@denninger.net) Internet Consultant & Kids Rights Activist
http://www.denninger.net Cost-effective solutions on the Internet
http://childrens-justice.org Working to protect children's rights
NIBRAL1
>straighten to get the correct measurement on all 3 or 4 blades are two
>different things. I wish it was as simple as putting the prop in a machine
>and
>turn it on. It still takes a skilled human to get it right.
>
>EJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
And, I will add that just because a shop uses Propscan, or any of the other
computer measuring devices available, does not mean they do not use blocks.
Like Eric said, it takes a skilled human (craftsman) to get it right. It is
not a matter of which tools you own, but how you can use the tools you own.
Hydralic tables, pin gauges, blocks, etc. can all be used to straighten a bent
prop, getting the rake, tracking, rate of change, cup and pitch right are where
various measuring tools come into effect. The skill of the craftsman utilizing
the block, table, etc. and measuring devices in truing up the prop is really
the issue. Relying solely on one apparatus such as a block is what nets an
inferior repair. Even the manner in which Eric repairs props requires checks
and balances, you cannot rely solely on sight or one reading or on one type of
measuring device.
Finding a good prop repair shop should not be that difficult. Ask friends and
other boaters where they have had a repair done, then ask if they were
satisfied with it. Did thier performance return to pre-strike levels? better?
worse? vibration? no vibration? smoother than new? There are differences.
Personally,. I take the time to evaluate different alloys to repair nibral
props and use a nibral rod to do so. I don't look just for it to weld nicely,
but for color match and strength. Many shops will use the same bronze or brass
rod to repair nibral as they do to repair brass. My opinion - this is a huge
disservice to the consumer. The brass is softer than the nibral and along the
weld line will actually begin to deteriorate due to galvanic corrosion - that
white/green crusty stuff you see along the weld line. These repairs are
characterized by their bright gold appearance in the repair area, after the
rest of the prop has begun to tarnish.
It is more difficult to detect corner cutting in stainless, but there are
different grades used, some are 410S, some 308L, some 17-4, and some 15-5, odds
are that you would be hard pressed to find a shop with all four rods in stock.
The absolute worst stainless repairs I have seen have been done with 316
surgical stainless. No iron in the alloy. These repairs wrinkle going through
the water, you don't have to hit a thing; but the repair looked great when you
picked it up.
Prop changes in the water do not have to be difficult :
Tie a lanyard to the puller and wrench, the other end of which will go around
your wrist.
When you loosen the prop nut, do not take it all the way off the shaft, this
way when the prop comes loose it will hit the prop nut, instead of the bottom
of the lake.
Once you have loosened the nut you will be able to see where the key slot is,
rotate it up.
Install the puller and steadily apply pressure by tightening the bolt.
When the prop pops the puller will probably come off the shaft, this is where
that lanyard comes in handy. Put your tools back in the boat.
Now take the prop nut off, and steady the prop with your other hand. Hand the
prop nut to someone in the boat. Now comes the absolute trickiest part, remove
the prop and key, sometimes the key may stick in the prop, sometimes on the
shaft, use both hands and locate the key and catch it as the prop comes off.
Because you were wise and rotated the key slot up, now installation of the new
prop will be much easier. Place the key in the slot and while holding the key
in place with one hand, locate and slide the prop onto the shaft, seating it
firmly.
Have someone hand you the prop nut in your free hand while maintain pressure on
the prop with your other hand. Most of the time if the previous step is
accomplished properly, the prop will not slide back off the shaft, but why
chance it.
Tighten prop nut, install a new cotter pin.
Back ups of not only the prop, but prop nut, key, and cotter pin should also be
kept in the boat.
Another shameless plug for OJ's just in case spare prop kit. All necessary
items are contained within. Resupply them if you use them.
Happy boating.
ttfn
nibral1
EJOJPROP
>
>
Tom,
I used to change the prop with the boat in the water while testing. Remove the
platform and have someone sit on the bow, raises the transom a little. It's all
feel, I would not try and hold my breath to change it, just reach under the
boat and go to work.
EJ
EJOJPROP
>case" prop kit. Nice setup, but I wish the wrench fit the nut that CC
>uses.
>
>tim
>
>
Tim,
Good news, Our new prop wrench does just that. It now has an end machined for
the Correct Craft castle nut. Give us a call for an exchange.
EJ
OJ PROPS
Mark Lenox
Tom Ruta wrote:
> Mark Lenox <le...@cti-pet.com> wrote:
>
> ...
> >> How would you change the prop if you were at the other end
> >> of Lake Powell (from your truck/trailer)?
> >
> >Go swimming and replace it.
>
> Have you actually done that????
Yes. Just make sure your tools are on a lanyard and be careful not to drop the
key. I have several spare keys and nuts in the boat just in case.
>
> If you
> think that it is reasonable to start playing "Sea Hunt" and
> changing a prop miles form nowhere you are dreaming.
If your cellular phone works, you aren't "nowhere".
Mark Lenox
Gary Mahler
Tom Ruta <ru...@cadvision.com> wrote in message >
>
>
> >
> >There is absolutely no substitute for a spare prop, tools, and extra
hardware
> >onboard at all times.
Without question, you are kidding yourself if if you think that you will see
everything that is submerged just below the surface. From shallow spots
hidden by murky water (most man made ski lakes), to boulders (they call them
stones) just below the water in Vermont, to semi- submerged logs on a TVA
lake, you just can't see it all in time to be sure.
>
> Has anyone ever changed a prop under water? Prop guys???
I once changed a 24" X 24" 4 blade on a 41' Hatteras sport fish in the
Bahamas at an out island. The prop was so heavy that when I was able to
remove it from the shaft, down I went with prop in hand (only about 6' of
water) I had a line (you don't use "ropes" on boats) tied to it, so up it
went, and down with the other.
What I remember most was having to deal with that "NevrSeize" on the shaft.
Once that stuff gets on your skin, it likes to stay on for a while. I don't
know of anyone whould consider going to the Bahamas without at least 1 spare
prop, most have 2.
Lanyards are your friends when working underwater with tools.
There are several dockside diving services that will change props for you
$$$$$ around the East Coast of Florida.
No cell towers around back then.
FWIW
Gary
I did use SCUBA tanks though , but that job was nothing like raising a ski
jump from the bottom of a 30' deep lake. That was NO fun :)
Tom Ruta
...
>Without question, you are kidding yourself if if you think that you will see
>everything that is submerged just below the surface. From shallow spots
>hidden by murky water (most man made ski lakes), to boulders (they call them
>stones) just below the water in Vermont, to semi- submerged logs on a TVA
>lake, you just can't see it all in time to be sure.
>>
I'd agree. But last year, the highest water i since 1947 we
have huge trees and logs everywhere. I was lucky and didn't
hit a thing. Paranoia reigned though.
WRT changing a prop can see that long trips one should have
one. But changing on water would be a last report for me.
What I CAN see working is if you bend a blade out there, and
there's no significant damage to a shaft, get thee to shore
and work in the shallows. Personally, I'd go for a tow.
Dropping a $300 prop in a couple hundred feet of water is
not my idea of a good time.
>> Has anyone ever changed a prop under water? Prop guys???
>.. I don't
>know of anyone whould consider going to the Bahamas without at least 1 spare
>prop, most have 2.
How's the skiing across the strait?
Tom
Gary Mahler
DEEP
The Gulf Stream can be a little choppy though............
YMMV
Gary
NIBRAL1
>boat has a 90+ inch beam - my arm span from (air breathing)
>mouth to hand is about 36 inches. How long does one have to
>hold their breath to accomplish these manoeuver?
>
Personnally, I work from the transom not the side of the boat. Sometimes the
platform can be a little bit of a problem, but it also makes a good table. As
for arm span, yea I do have long arms, and I'm not exactly short. Regardless,
you are allowed to get your head wet and holding your breath for a minute or
two should not be a problem.
Now, the new Infinity, that is another story. I can see holding my breath for
awhile changing one of those props. And Tom, you are allowed to come up for
air periodically, you don't have to get it off in one go, you know.
Also, you would generally do this in about 3' of water, anchored just off
shore. While attempting this in 250' of water would definitely increase the
adrenal flow, I don't really need that kind of excitement, a few feet of water
and patience is all you need.
>especially in the cold water season.
Now Tom, you don't own a drysuit yet? Come on, you may have to be dragged
kicking and screaming to your local proshop, you need to get outfittted for
all these watersport activities. Drysuits are also handy for
installing/removing docks, and more importantly - skiing/wakeboarding!
ttfn
nibral1
Tom Ruta
...
>Personnally, I work from the transom not the side of the boat. Sometimes the
>platform can be a little bit of a problem, but it also makes a good table. As
>for arm span, yea I do have long arms, and I'm not exactly short. Regardless,
>you are allowed to get your head wet and holding your breath for a minute or
>two should not be a problem.
>
I'll check this out next weekend to see if it is feasible.
Something tells me that the trap door on the Malibu platform
might come in handy. FWIW, this sounds like a repair best
and first learned on dry land!
...
>Also, you would generally do this in about 3' of water, anchored just off
>shore. ...
Makes sense...
>>especially in the cold water season.
>
>Now Tom, you don't own a drysuit yet? Come on, you may have to be dragged
>kicking and screaming to your local proshop, you need to get outfittted for
>all these watersport activities. Drysuits are also handy for
>installing/removing docks, and more importantly - skiing/wakeboarding!
The dock stays in all year long. As for dry suits, I've
been thinking about one - probably a tighter fitting one for
slalom. Of course the head, hands and feet are another
problem.
Thanks for the interesting perspective on changing one on
the water. (I better keep the cell phone charged up until I
figure this out).
Tom