Supra starter motor problems...
James Osborne
My Supra Comp Ts6m won't start easily from cold. The solenoid engages
the gear to the flywheel. then nothing. For several seconds nothing (I
don't like holding the key in this situation but needs must)...
eventually the crank turns and then speeds up and starts ok. It's like
the starter doesn't have enough power. I've rebuilt and cleaned the
starter and replaced the bushes, but it's no better. One idea is a poor
earth throught the crank casing but haven't been able to test that
theory yet.
Any ideas?
Ed Dunn
In article <33A7320A...@ibl.bm>,
James Osborne <josb...@ibl.bm> wrote:
Pull the starter and check the flywheel for rust. Quite common in inboards to
get water in the flywheel area (bellhousing).
Shark
James,
I would check the battery and relay to starter cables. Make sure there
is no corrosions where the cables have terminal connectors. If there is
you should cut the wire back until you see un-corroded copper. Go down
to your marine supply store and get some solder-on terminal ends (you
are garuntee need a really hot soldering gun, about 150 watt) and dual
walled marine heat shrink (it has glue on the inside).
Now cut a piece of heat shrink and slide it down the wire, make sure its
far enough away so it doesn't shrink from the soldering gun heat. Now
get the cable good and hot and tin it with some solder. Put the
terminal end on the cable and heat. Feed the solder in until it starts
to spill out. Let cool a few minutes then slide the heat shrink up and
heat it with a heat gun or lighter.
I recommend this technique for any one that has any sort of wiring
problem in a boat application. It may seem like overkill, but I can
almost guarantee that you'll never have to screw around the wiring
again.
Good Luck,
Shark
James Osborne
I have now checked all wiring ant it seems ok. There was lots of rust in
the flywheel and starter motor befor I rebuilt it, perhaps some got into
the solenoid, which I now suspect to contain the bad contact (bit is's a
sealed unit !?). Anyway tomorrow it's going to the PCM dealer to be
checked.
Thanks, James.
Ed Dunn
In article <33A9F4A4...@ibl.bm>,
James Osborne <josb...@ibl.bm> wrote:
If there was lots of rust on the flywheel/ring gear, did you thoroughly
clean it before reassembly? If you didn't get every trace of rust off the
ring gear, every time you run the starter, rust powder will be ground off
the ring gear, and guess where it goes? The only escape route, the starter.
After a number of starts, each producing an amount of rust powder to the
starter motor, the starter shorts out. Especially in a very damp
environment. The probable way you might also have a bad solenoid now, is a
result of high heat buildup, in the solenoid from holding the start switch
on for more than a very few seconds. The solenoid, normally remote on a PCM
351 conversion, can't really be affected by the rust accumulation. But the
starter motor is very sensitive. I imagine the PCM dealer is going to want
to replace the flywheel and ring gear. This problem is so common on
inboards, but most people simply keep replacing starters, only to have it
occur again shortly. Our local ski school owner goes through at least three
starters a summer on his Mastercraft. He's to the point now that they
primarily use their Ski Centurion Warrior outboard for their ski lessons.
Want to cure the problem after you get the new flywheel? Make sure the
dealer uses the latest seal available between the engine and bellhousing,
and then liberally coat the joint externally with a marine sealant to keep
water from invading the flywheel area again. Good luck, it's going to cost
you a bit to get it right.
