Teak Oil or C-Tol (spelling?)
Chuck Hounsell
I have an 86 Supra with lots of teak. Interior stripping on the sides,
engine cover, louvered doors, handrails and step areas in the bow, as
well as a teak swim platform.
I've stripped all the wood off, removed the swim platform and have
sanded off the old peeling varnish. I've sanded the wood smooth, used
teak cleaner and brightener to get the wood to top shape for
refinishing.
Two marine stores have offered different recommendations on how to
refinish. One suggests that teak oil is the only way to go,
particularly for the swim platform. They suggested that I'd have to oil
the platform once at the start and once through the middle of the
season. They thought the interior work would only require oiling every
two years.
The other store thought that if I carefully coated the entire platform
with several coats of C-Tol it would hold up just fine. It makes sense
that this finish method would work fine for the fussy strips and
handrails. I've also heard comments that C-Tol can darken the finish
quite a bit.
If if helps, you can check out pics of the boat at
www.members.home.net/chuckhounsell
Thanks in advance
Chuck Hounsell
If it makes a difference, other than the swim platform all the teak is
undercover when the boat is not in use.
d
Chuck Hounsell wrote in message <362A9B03...@home.com>...
>Perhaps this newsgroup has some wisdon on the issue of finishing teak.
>
>I have an 86 Supra with lots of teak. Interior stripping on the sides,
>engine cover, louvered doors, handrails and step areas in the bow, as
>well as a teak swim platform.
>
>I've stripped all the wood off, removed the swim platform and have
>sanded off the old peeling varnish. I've sanded the wood smooth, used
>teak cleaner and brightener to get the wood to top shape for
>refinishing.
The best stuff I have seen (after trying many different methods) is the
Starbright Teak Kit. It comes in three applications, cleaner, brightener,
and oil. I found that once the treatment has been done once, very periodic
oiling will keep it looking great - particularily with a swim platform. I
would guess that for your interior stuff, it would hardly ever require much
more attention.
>The other store thought that if I carefully coated the entire platform
>with several coats of C-Tol it would hold up just fine. It makes sense
>that this finish method would work fine for the fussy strips and
>handrails. I've also heard comments that C-Tol can darken the finish
>quite a bit.
I have never heard of C-Tol, but if it is any sort of varnish, or stain like
finish it will not last. Teak should never require sanding if it is oiled.
Other finishes will have to be removed eventually.
Hope that helps,
Don
Mark Kovalcson
spelling is correct.
1. The finished Teak will be much darker with C-Tol.
2. It leaves a glossy, slippery looking varnish like finish.
If you don't walk on your teak and want it to look pretty for a long
time C-Tol is the way to go. I wouldn't do my platform with it.
Premium Teak oil will look good for a little while, but not nearly as
long as the C-Tol.
I went throught the exact same process with my boat two years ago. I
took all the teak off and stripped it until it was perfectly clean. Then
I used a Tung oil water treatproofing product. I coated each piece no
less then 6 times as the oil keep soaking in and leaving the surface dry
looking. It looked great!
Two years later it all looks washed out again.
Tom Ruta
>I have seen an identical year Supreme done in C-Tol. I think your
>spelling is correct.
If he means the Sikkens product, it is Cetol. I have been
told it is one of the best for wood treatment, but our
neighbours did a whole whack of cedar window trin two years
ago and they are already redoing it. I'd go with a marine
formulation.
Tom
Bob McMahon
it. The first month I soaked it to the point it was dripping off. I
continued to do this all winter every few weeks. Then once or twice a year
as needed.
My boat has over 750 hours and to this day it still looks great. In or out
of the water. No dry spots, dark or anything. The only down side is it slick
as a owl shit when wet. Tung oil seems to not stay with them very long.
I still get many comments on how good it looks and plan on doing my new boat
the same way as soon as I get it.
Bob McMahon
McMahon Auto Diesel/Quick Lube
Kennett, MO 63857
bm...@sheltonbbs.com
Mark Kovalcson wrote in message <362B0DA7...@usit.net>...
>I have seen an identical year Supreme done in C-Tol. I think your
>spelling is correct.
>
KENGIBBONS
In 450 hours, the only problem we have had is where the boards and skis scrape
it off. The solution is easy, hand the boys a rag and bottle of oil and tell
them to go nuts. It always looks good and I see no wood deterioration at all.