Keith (confused in Coquitlam)
The only way (unfortunately) is by trail and error. I suggest putting
your bike on the trainer and ride for a few minutes, adjust, ride, etc...
The problem is as you move the seat fore/aft position, you also change the
amount of beam deflection (which is directly related to your weight and
body position).
Getting the seat height isn't too bad; however, saddle tilt is more time
consuming.
Pat
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W.Patrick Brug, Ph.D. _- -_
Los Alamos National Lab -__ __-
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Keith,
I've had a Softride for 3 years now (and a ZIPP that I haven't
put together for one year ... anyone want to buy it ?) and while
I haven't come up w/ a perfect method I do have a couple of tips.
First off, take careful measurements off whatever bike you were
previously riding, mainly horizontal measurements such as tip of
seat to center of bottom-bracket, tip of seat to bars, etc. This
will help greatly in setting your fore/aft position (although I'm
assuming that you were comfortable in your old position).
I have yet to figure out a way to actually measure seat height on
the beam bike, as you've seen the beam flexes when you load it. So
I've set the seat height by "feel", and by checking the angles of
hips and knees (with the cranks horizontal to the ground).
It was very easy to get a more forward position on the beam bike
since you can shove the seat as far forward as you wish. If you choose
to do this QRman has/(had?) an excellent article on how this may affect
other things such as seat height.
Whenever I made a change like this, I've marked my original position
with a piece of tape, or a nick on the beam binder doohickey, (and I've
always come back to the original).
Good luck, let me know if you come up w/ something a better.
Tony Sako
What we need is a mechanical adjustment mechanism for beam height. As
we all know, the most minute change of height down at the clamp trans-
lates in to a major adjustment at the seat (the opposite end of the
fulcrum). Simply loosening the clamp and trying to move the beam
results in very inaccurate adjustments, and lots of grumpiness.
What is needed is some kind of threaded adjustment, where turning a
threaded bolt raises and lowers the beam at the clamp area. I envison
something like a chain adjustment on a motorcycle. There would be a
finely calibrated plate to gauge the adjustment height by.
And while we're at it, the steel clamp bolt and seat mount are out
of place on this aluminum frame. Perhaps an aftermarket company
can come up with lighter replacement parts.
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* /|\ * * * Eric Roseme
* /|\ * * * Hewlett-Packard, Networked Computer Division
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